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You Am I posted:Tamiya plugs usually melt under race conditions, due to the heat build up from high resistance they have. Whereas Deans plugs and Corolly plugs are low resistance, and don't have the heat build up yeah, i was aware of that, but i sure as hell didnt expect the plug to melt just by turning the ESC on edit: complimentary top of page picture  complimentary picture will be followed by horrible pictures of a burnt ESC.    
Frobbe fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Mar 3, 2010 |
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Mar 3, 2010 08:59
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I went bashing with a buddy of mine who just bought a 1/16 E-Revo Brushless and Jesus that thing if loving fast. Since my SC-10 has been completely torn down, my DF03ra lost a retaining pin and I still haven't fabricated one, and the Slash is so boring so I dusted off my rally prepped HPI Cup Racer, which i had been intending to race at a local track that does 1/10M, and took out the shocks and put on the rally wheels for some fun at the park. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I forgot how amazing this thing drives both on road and off. It's so easy to initiate drift with these tires and you can snap back into control in a second. Here it is driving sideways.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. The funny thing is that this is the car that got me back into RC a while back and while it's seen the most abuse, it's had zero failures or breakages. I have been whipping this bitch like a two dollar whore and she keeps coming back for more. This had reaffirmed that I will definitely buy another HPI model sometime in the future.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Mar 5, 2010 12:45
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Krushgroove, I want a Lancia Stratos body like this http://www.hpiracing.com/dcinfo/8049/ for a Cup Racer. Also, get us a lexan underbody.
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Mar 5, 2010 23:22
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I would have to remove the driveshaft for a little while, in the name of ultimate realism.
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Mar 5, 2010 23:28
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kuffs posted:Krushgroove, I want a Lancia Stratos body like this http://www.hpiracing.com/dcinfo/8049/ for a Cup Racer. Also, get us a lexan underbody. This is the closest I've found and unfortunately will not fit a Cup Racer but it will fit a DF03ra or any 1/10 Touring to Rally Car conversion. http://www.geocities.jp/wrfyt827/tsl010B-1.htm Unfortunately the Stratos was a tiny car and would just look weird next to an Impreza or Lancer of the same scale. Part of the reason I liked this conversion is because I can run older rally style bodies on a scale that fits with the rest of my garage.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:33
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oh hey, i need this:  Click here for the full 750x498 image. and this!  Click here for the full 750x498 image. bye money!
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Mar 7, 2010 22:04
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Welp, it's official, I'm getting back in. I'm doing it the cheap way this time, at least at first, in case I get burned out sooner than I want to. I've got three of the Turnigy 5200 mAh 2S 30C hardcase lipos being shipped, and picked up two Dynam DC6 chargers to run off of an ATX power supply. I just spent an hour scavenging old Dean's plugs off of my box of old 1200-1700 mAh NiCd packs; I'm going to recycle the batteries since they range from 15 to 22 years old. I did grab some Dean's battery bars off of them too, heh. I'll probably end up picking up the remanned Novak Havoc Sport ESC and the remanned Novak SS Brushless, in 13.5T so I can jump into the local novice class to start. I'm holding out on buying a radio until I can give my friend's DX2S a feel. Just got to wait for the revised SC10 to come out, if for no reason other than the body (or a drop in price on the existing SC10 kit, either way).
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Mar 8, 2010 02:31
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So I have a dilemma. I'm looking at getting a good .21 race engine for my buggy this year. I have a Ninja MR.21 that I ran two years ago. That thing hauled rear end and screamed like a champ. But in one of my races I had a nasty wreck, got some dirt in the engine and worn out the piston/sleeve in a snap. It's been sitting in a box ever since, I replaced it with an OS .21 VG last year to save money and it was crap. It was dog slow compared to the all the high end motors a lot of other guys are racing. Now here is my dilemma, I'd like to get a good motor, but I have a budget of $200. Should I buy a new motor for that price, or should I replace the piston/sleeve on my Ninja? The piston/sleeve runs about $130 (This engine was like $400 brand new,though I bought it used). From all the local guys I talk to they say I should also replace the conrod as well, except this particular engine is discontinued and I can't find a new conrod anywhere. I've never replaced the piston/sleeve on an engine, so I'm wondering if that is worth doing? or should I just go with a new engine.
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Mar 9, 2010 06:17
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Replacing your piston and sleeve is a breeze. I'd definitely go with that.
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Mar 9, 2010 07:41
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Oh yeah, I posted pics of my new Eurus and the case I found: http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/333934-ko-propo-ex-10-eurus-19.html#post7110373
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Mar 9, 2010 08:42
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kuffs posted:Krushgroove, I want a Lancia Stratos body like this http://www.hpiracing.com/dcinfo/8049/ for a Cup Racer. Also, get us a lexan underbody. Oh believe me I wish this would come true  I think the scale is a perfect match! The main thing preventing a flood of awesome retro & modern bodies is manpower: the backlog of cool bodies to make is VERY long, and the time it takes to get bodies molded and decals made is pretty long. Not to mention licensing, etc., which some smaller companies don't bother with until they get noticed by very expensive lawyers.
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Mar 9, 2010 10:39
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Yeah, I forgot about all the work that goes into tooling up for that kind of thing. Still, props to HPI for having the diverse offering they have already.
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Mar 9, 2010 16:15
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kuffs posted:Yeah, I forgot about all the work that goes into tooling up for that kind of thing. Still, props to HPI for having the diverse offering they have already. I think it's at least 2 and a half months from start to production, not counting shipping time. I've got 2 planes, 8 cars & trucks and tons of bodies, wheels, tires and whatnot to put on eBay...I've got to clear some room on my bed somehow! Just a matter of uploading pictures and typing up the descriptions, but drat that can be a lot of work :P oh and finding boxes and packing material! Anyone want a Pro 4? haha! I need a serious RC clearout...
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Mar 9, 2010 16:36
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krushgroove posted:
Could you list what you have in more details? I might be interested in something to start me off in the trucks field. (Something that isn't as nerve wrecking to play with as a CP heli)
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Mar 9, 2010 17:03
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If you live in the UK, it might be worth it for you...otherwise you could have nasty shipping charges I'll PM you, I upgraded to platinum last week, finally.
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Mar 9, 2010 17:13
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i, too, might be interested in anything short course truck related you might have for sale, as i live in denmark, shipping aint too bad! edit: i believe in pictures, here is one of a body painted by Steve Zielke, for sale in denmark! 
Frobbe fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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Mar 9, 2010 17:17
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So, I found the answer to the cheap, high-voltage digital servo question I posed earlier http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?item=1923§ion=46 Supports up to 3S, and is physically programmable. It sounds pointless at first, but I read the setup and it seems like the superior way to do endpoint adjustments. http://www.fmadirect.com/support_docs/item_1162.pdf
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Mar 9, 2010 17:20
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krushgroove posted:If you live in the UK, it might be worth it for you...otherwise you could have nasty shipping charges Who knows, if you're able to cut me a deal that make it worth while.  Not having to deal with ebay tards certainly deserve a rebate. 
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Mar 9, 2010 17:20
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PMs sent, if you have questions on something specific, I can email you pics if I have them or try to describe what it's got. IsaacNewton posted:Who knows, if you're able to cut me a deal that make it worth while. True! Happy to do a wee goon discount too.
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Mar 9, 2010 17:23
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kuffs posted:Replacing your piston and sleeve is a breeze. I'd definitely go with that. I tore it down last night, and despite being full of dirt/sand everything looked ok other than it spun like a top with no pinch. I think I will go this route. If it runs like new then I'll have a top performing engine for cheap. Frobbe posted:edit: i believe in pictures, here is one of a body painted by Steve Zielke, for sale in denmark! Zielke is one of the best painters around, and one of my biggest competitors. But man, the guy sure does great work.
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Mar 9, 2010 19:19
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I am so glad custom painters (in full-size and scale cars) started using that style of flame job - I like the classic Cali-type flame (like Jesse James bikes) but they were so easy to copy you'd see them on everything. And don't get me started on drips! gah!
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Mar 9, 2010 19:30
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SGT. Squeaks posted:So I have a dilemma. I am still wondering why people even choose to rebuild engines. In addition to wanting to replace the con-rod (some high end engines recommend every GALLON!) you should also replace the piston pin (goes through a lot of stress). If you sucked in some dirt, then the bearings are probably shot, the front main bearing is common to leak air. Also, as you said the MR engine has been discontinued a while. Mugen was supposed to get parts support from GRP (the source of the engine) for like two years, but later last year the GRP factory in Italy burned to the ground. They since have only said they will be doing tires. So IF you can find all of the pieces, you will be looking at roughly the cost of a new engine. There are some inexpensive engines that run great that you should look into. The 3 Port NovaRossi engines sell for like 175 bucks brand new. They are a "budget" race engine, but still put out decent power for most club racing and they get GREAT mileage for less pit stops. The other good engine for a price tag around the 200 dollar mark is the WERKS Team Line B5. Some of their engines have struggled in the past to be a little more durable and have short life, this one seems to be a winner for them though. I am a big Novarossi whore, so I will always be pretty biased towards their stuff.
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Mar 9, 2010 22:54
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Somewhat Heroic posted:GRP factory in Italy burned hehe 'burned' - there was a lot of talk about that when it happened. Funny how they'd just moved the big machines out of the factory... There was another major (I think distribution) RC company that had a 'fire' many years ago. They were way in debt and a lot of talk went around about them too. And before the XRAY car was released Corally was robbed of their development computers...hehe 'As the Spur Gear Turns...'
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Mar 9, 2010 22:59
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Heres a stupid question, i'm looking for a battery charger for 7.2V NimH batteries. Years ago I just had a crappy wall charger which I used to leave on all night that probably damaged the battery anyway. Is something like this ok? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=31039
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Mar 10, 2010 12:45
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Idiot race posted:Heres a stupid question, i'm looking for a battery charger for 7.2V NimH batteries. Years ago I just had a crappy wall charger which I used to leave on all night that probably damaged the battery anyway. I have the same model, but with lipo/life support as well, i'd recommend you get one that does that from the get go, as you'll want to use li-po or lifepo later on anyway
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Mar 10, 2010 12:52
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That one looks ok but you may as well see if you can get one that does LiPo as well, since it's a fairly simple charging method. That's if you don't already have a LiPo charger.
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Mar 10, 2010 12:53
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How much stuff do you need to change over to lipo? Because currently I have one NimH sanyo battery somebody gave me. Currently I have a LRP AI Runner Plus ESC, it wont work with lipo will it? Edit: Just did a quick google on lipo Which came up with this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187 The failures are pretty.......interesting to say the least track day bro! fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 13:41
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All you would need to run LiPo with a non-LiPo speedo is a LiPo battery cutoff, Novak and other companies make them. You can unbranded ones cheap online. A donated NiMH battery may not have much life left in it and you may as well go for the upgrade when you realize it has nowhere near the runtime and power you want.
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Mar 10, 2010 13:57
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krushgroove posted:All you would need to run LiPo with a non-LiPo speedo is a LiPo battery cutoff, Novak and other companies make them. You can unbranded ones cheap online. A donated NiMH battery may not have much life left in it and you may as well go for the upgrade when you realize it has nowhere near the runtime and power you want. I was probably going to buy a second NiMH battery but I do like the idea of the LiPo cutoff. Here comes another dumb question, what kind of LiPo would I need, the esc says its rated to 7.2v max, but LiPo's seem to use different ratings?
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Mar 10, 2010 14:22
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I think (and others can feel free to correct me) that a 7.4v LiPo is safe to use with a speedo rated for 7.2v. I'm sure someone has some experience with this, although I haven't tried it myself with that speedo. Best bet is to contact Associated (assuming you're in the US).
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Mar 10, 2010 14:29
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krushgroove posted:I think (and others can feel free to correct me) that a 7.4v LiPo is safe to use with a speedo rated for 7.2v. I'm sure someone has some experience with this, although I haven't tried it myself with that speedo. Best bet is to contact Associated (assuming you're in the US). I'm in the UK if that makes any difference. You know I never realised how complicated these things were and most RC forums seem to be geared towards pros. Are there any good references for novices? Because apart from my current car (TA-05IFS) my only experience with RC's was building a manta ray with my brother more than 15 years ago. I do have a friend whos pretty into RC but most of his collection consist of half built petrol buggys
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Mar 10, 2010 14:56
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Idiot race posted:most RC forums seem to be geared towards pros. Are there any good references for novices? This is a problem I've noticed. There are some forums that are more helpful than others, they're usually based in the US so prices & online shop references are difficult for folks outside the US to work with. I did write this many years ago, and most of it still applies I think. It has the basics you ought to know before choosing a car, the general outline to a race day and other hopefully useful stuff. Between basic guides like this and the RC racers should lie the model shop, but some shops concentrate on things like slot cars and sell RTR cars to make a bit of money, or at the other end of the spectrum the shop does racing stuff almost exclusively...so it can be tough learning the ropes if you don't race and rely on just on web sites or friends who aren't as knowledgable as they could be. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 16:02
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Li-po batteries really aren't that hard to work with! i figured it out, it means everyone should be able to. for cars, make sure you get lipo batts that are actually shaped like the ordinary nimh stickpacks, because the ones hobbyking sell are often oddly shaped and don't fit in battery holders 1:10 cars come with. if you run 1:8, go hog wild. basic batteries are 2S25C, which means it's 2 cells and can discharge 25 times it's rated MaH (a 5000 MaH can therefore discharge 125A) most ESCs work excellently with this and should have no issues, particularly if they have a lipo setting. after this, you can explore 3S batteries, which provide you with 11.1v and similar discharge, this is mostly for 1:8 cars and everything traxxas sells with their VXL system.
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Mar 10, 2010 16:59
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Idiot race posted:I was probably going to buy a second NiMH battery but I do like the idea of the LiPo cutoff. Here comes another dumb question, what kind of LiPo would I need, the esc says its rated to 7.2v max, but LiPo's seem to use different ratings? You should be fine with a LiPo on that ESC, so long as you use a cutoff. .2v isn't that big of a deal. I know the technology may be confusing at first, but they're really great. A lot easier to maintain and use. I made a post about a page or two ago to sell IOwnCalculus on them. Frobbe is right, the dimensions on some HobbyKing packs are kind of strange, but they're stupid cheap. A little bit of hunting and minor adjustments to your car and you can run packs that cost 1/4 of what other guys are paying. If you have any further questions, don't be afraid to ask here. The posting quality on SA far outclasses any rc forums. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm certainly more willing to answer people if they can pose their questions with proper sentences.
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Mar 10, 2010 17:43
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I used to post a lot on the old About.com RC forums, ages ago. Even though this gets a fraction of the post volume about RC compared to that, or compared to rctech.net, the discussion quality here is awesome. rc10talk.com has some good boards too, though they're heavily biased towards vintage. Which is cool as hell to me...I can't decide now if I want to freshen up one of my old XX buggies to run in Novice for a while until the revised SC10 comes out, or if I want to really old-school it up and throw my electronics in the gold-tub RC10. Speaking of which, apparently gold-tub RC10s have been remarkably competitive at some high level events recently; there was some indoor national event in February where one placed second!
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Mar 10, 2010 22:39
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IOC, you make up your mind on radios? I've been watching 3PM 2.4's on rctech recently. I don't think they're selling at $125. I'll drop to $100 on my previous offer.
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Mar 10, 2010 22:55
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Idiot race posted:I'm in the UK if that makes any difference. You know I never realised how complicated these things were and most RC forums seem to be geared towards pros. Are there any good references for novices? Because apart from my current car (TA-05IFS) my only experience with RC's was building a manta ray with my brother more than 15 years ago.
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Mar 10, 2010 23:07
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kuffs posted:IOC, you make up your mind on radios? I've been watching 3PM 2.4's on rctech recently. I don't think they're selling at $125. I'll drop to $100 on my previous offer. I still need to find time to give my friend's Spektrum a feel, but...drat, that's a tempting offer. I did decide against using the Corona conversion kit, at least for my racing stuff. I might put together something to bash around eventually and bust out the 2PBKA with that setup for nostalgia's sake.
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Mar 11, 2010 00:47
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This will be a lengthier post with pictures! I have recently done some work on my Baja 5T only to go out for 30 minutes and detonate the differential. drat the luck.  So I am not screwing around and I will just install a new diff. Have you ever seen a Baja diff? I think it is about the same size as a Miata diff. The quarter is a reference not only for size, but of how much money you will have left after buying this $119 gem (that is full retail price...) Started with all of the goods. Turtle Racing HD Clutch system, Front and Rear shock mounts, PhatDad shock shafts, new shock boots, shock covers, gun metal shock parts, RPM front arm, new bulkhead, DarkSoul o-rings, spare ABEC5 bearings, and stainless hardware to replace what as fallen out. That nifty stand in the back is the only Baja dedicated shock stand. It rocks out.   First bit of the Turtle clutch install  install complete, note the PhatDad chassis brace  New front bulkhead  The main reason to want to teardown, the shocks. These were in terrible shape  These will get new shock shafts (PhatDad pictured above the old shaft), new O Rings, boots, and Gun Metal ano'd parts (working on getting away from all of the Orange parts. Eventually the truck will be Black, Gun Metal, and Red)  FastEddy stand rockin it  Front end built and happy.  Backside lookin good.  I am waiting for a couple of new parts before I install the differential. DarkSoul has some new outdrive reinforcing things he is calling "TOOBz" which are essentially a stainless steel outdrive saver. Those should be here early next week. The other thing I am waiting on which is probably two weeks out is the Turtle Racing quick diff transmission case, which is a three piece tranny case that allows access to the differential in a fraction of the time. It will be in gun metal anodizing too. Cannot WAIT for that thing. Getting to the differential is a big greasy/dirty mess.
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Mar 11, 2010 18:14
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Working on that is more like working on a go-kart than an rc car. Cool stuff!
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Mar 11, 2010 19:11
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