Fix posted:

anarchywrksbest posted:

Cross posting from the Oath thread.

I've been painting the odd Space Wolf model here and there, but this is definitely the one I am most happy with so far!

PaintVagrant posted:

SW biker wips:

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

By the by, I strongly recommend Imperial Armour - Model Masterclass Volume One. It's an absolute goldmine of tips for doing all kinds of cool stuff with GW paints, airbrushes, and various more esoteric ingredients.

Cakefool posted:

Note: It's not an instruction book, it's a pretty pictures with tips book. Get it regardless, it's brilliant.

Dr. Phildo posted:

Hey alcyon,

Did you get that kit from ebay or a for-reals store? I've been looking at that figure for a little while, and the others - It's from Maschinen Krieger, right?

You're paint job is fantastic so far

alcyon posted:

If you guys want some decent tips on esoteric painting and techniques, you should really avoid the dedicated warhammer forums (outside SA of course) and lurk around sites dedicated to armor and figure painting. Tons of tips and techniques for free. (the MIG forums for example)

!amicable posted:

Her head is also loving gigantic, making her look more baby like.

Could you elaborate on the enamel stuff?

alcyon posted:

If you guys want some decent tips on esoteric painting and techniques, you should really avoid the dedicated warhammer forums (outside SA of course) and lurk around sites dedicated to armor and figure painting. Tons of tips and techniques for free. (the MIG forums for example)

Indolent Bastard posted:

Care to link a few of your top sites?

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Looking good. Out of interest, how are you doing the grey ? It looks similar to what I'm doing on my march oath (1:1 wolf : shadow) but with a hint more grey and less blue.

PaintVagrant posted:

SW biker wips:

Hell Diver posted:

I think they look like poo poo.

But really though, they look hella nice. I just don't like the traditional Blue-Grey SW look.

PaintVagrant posted:

Id probably go more grey/charcoal myself, but the client sent a model to get color matched (its that 2nd edition marine in one of the pics, the one w no arms)

alcyon posted:

You seem to do a lot of commission work -and quite skillfully I may add. Doesn't that get boring after a while? The lack of freedom I mean. I did some scatchbuilt commission work myself but was always rather frustrated by the leash and the lack of freedom. How do you balance time spend on commissions and your own models/projects?

PaintVagrant posted:

I barely work on anything of my own anymore....

alcyon posted:

Sure dude:

http://www.migproductionsforums.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=20
the mig forums are awesome. Some SERIOUS talent there.
I urge you all to browse it for a few hours. Required reading class!

ineptmule posted:

Hey clever modelling folk

I'm just finishing up my first four ever Blood Angels, what colours do you think I should go for with the basing?

ineptmule posted:

I'm just finishing up my first four ever Blood Angels, what colours do you think I should go for with the basing?

Captain Invictus posted:

GOBLIN GREEN WITH GOBLIN GREEN FLOCK

Hell Diver posted:

Cross Postin' from the Oath Thread

I'm not really crazy about it. Plain Dreads are kind of boring to paint, but he gets the job done.

richyp posted:

advice

Captain Invictus posted:

GOBLIN GREEN WITH GOBLIN GREEN FLOCK

alcyon posted:

That's a real shame. But the food/bills bit is understandable

Is any of your other 2D work posted in CC? i'd like to see some work you did for yourself without any obligations.

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Can you guys tell me the various methods you use to paint metal on vehicles? Right now I'm going boltgun, silver drybrush, badab wash, devlan wash and I'm not happy with the result. The washes look like poo poo on the large metal plates.

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Metals

Cakefool posted:

I have decided to take a break from failing to paint my oath, and started converting a Defiler into a tiny titan. I feel this is a smart decision.

richyp posted:

A variation I use often is to paint the area in a flat colour first and highlight, e.g. dark grey and grey highlights, then paint a couple of very thin layers of the metal (using an acylic thinner helps here) over it so the base shows through.

Grey/Light Grey makes a good Steel
Black-Grey/Grey makes a nice Iron
Brown/Yellow works well for Gold
Brown/Orange for a rusty base (ork style)

Here's an example from ages ago:



Take a look at the power klaw, the flat areas where painted with a brown (probably snakebite or something), it was then drybrushed with some bleached bone (all in one direction for the appearance of scratches), and the edges were higlighted with bleached bone too.

The thin boltgun glaze was applied over the base colours, and left to dry. Make sure not to let it run in the recesses, if it does use a dry brush to soak up the excess.

Once the glaze is dry, dab some devlan mud over the rivents and inbetween any interconnecting plates etc...

Voila!

For different colurs, use a different base and higlight/drybrush, and maybe use badab black for the black lining. It's really quick, the only downside is the glaze can take a while to dry.

Mike Mcvey posted:

Q: In regards to miniature creation, how important do you feel it is to keep the potential painter in mind?
Vital! Miniatures manufacturers sometimes forget the sculpt is not the end product. In my opinion, the end product is the painted miniature on the gaming table, or in a display cabinet. And even the difference between those two ends should influence the way it’s designed. You don’t want to have to paint masses of fine detail on every miniature in a 20 man unit – that just drives you crazy. Equally, if the detail is just so fine and tiny that it becomes difficult and annoying to paint – what’s the point of it being there? These is no point in the sculptor using a magnifying lens to sculpt tiny ‘realistic’ detail, if it’s going to be filled in and obscured with the first application of paint.

This is kind of a pet peeve of mine so sorry if I start to rant. To me there is a definite balance that need to be achieved on a miniature sculpt – the balance between detailed and plain areas. Or the balance between textured and smooth surfaces is another way of putting it. I think a sculpt needs both to be successful in being enjoyable to paint. Finely detailed and beautifully sculpted areas can be picked out – but a lot of the choices have already been made for the painter, so in some ways it can be a largely technical exercise. The open, smooth areas allow the painter to put their own mark on the miniature – and make some of their own artistic decisions. It also allows different sorts of painting on the same miniature.