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Black88GTA posted:Any recs? Maybe shoot these guys an email and ask them for some tips? They do awesome work and support the Mustang community a bunch. http://www.mirrorfinishpolishing.com/ This is all polish, no chrome: 
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Mar 15, 2010 15:15
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sharkytm posted:You really can't gently caress up the manifold unless you punch a hole or gently caress up the flanges. I'm talking just visually not functionally, like if you accidentally made a nice gouge in it. Not like you can just throw some body filler in it.  Sock loves to torture himself working on rusted out husks of cars everyone else would have hauled to the wrecker, and he gave up on this, if that's any indication of how miserable this will be to do yourself.
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Mar 15, 2010 23:27
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Stopped at Harbor Freight on my way home today. I'm doing some suspension work pretty soon and wanted some 1/2" drive tools in case I had stubborn bolts. I came back happy: 25" long 1/2" drive breaker bar. $11.99 on sale  21 piece 1/2" drive socket set, $29.99 on sale (I'm not so sure about that push-button ratchet, but that's not why I bought the set anyway. I think of it as a socket set that comes with a free ratchet!) Then I picked up some stuff for around the house, so I don't have to run out and get my tools out of my trunk all the time.  Simple little universal screwdriver, $1.49 on clearance (holy poo poo!)  Lockjaw needle nose pliers, $4.29 regular price (this was the only size they had in stock  I like to use these to open soy sauce, those drat caps always loving seal shut)Total cost was $51.10 after taxes. I'd say I made out alright.
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Mar 16, 2010 00:34
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CornHolio posted:
Only 1/2" ?  3/4" 
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Mar 16, 2010 00:53
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Lowclock posted:Sock loves to torture himself working on rusted out husks of cars everyone else would have hauled to the wrecker, and he gave up on this, if that's any indication of how miserable this will be to do yourself. It's a lot of time standing there. Hope you have some thoughts to get in order or happen to like what's on the radio that day. I decided to get lazy and just paint everything instead.  EDIT: poo poo, reply isn't edit.
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Mar 16, 2010 00:56
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Sockington posted:Only 1/2" ?    (We have a number of them at work - 3/4" drive, 40" long) (and I have seen them broken.)
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Mar 16, 2010 01:00
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CornHolio posted:Stopped at Harbor Freight on my way home today. I'm doing some suspension work pretty soon and wanted some 1/2" drive tools in case I had stubborn bolts. I came back happy: Everyone should have that breaker bar. I have the 1/2" and the 3/4" plus a few smaller BBs I inherited. Free tools are the best.
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Mar 16, 2010 01:01
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Rhyno posted:Everyone should have that breaker bar. I have the 1/2" and the 3/4" plus a few smaller BBs I inherited. Free tools are the best. That 1/2" breaker works great for just about everything, but it's juuuust barely too small for really stubborn axle nuts. I use it anyway since I'm too cheap to get a 3/4", and it gets kind of scary putting your whole body weight on the 1/2" and watching the gap where the swivel is attached open up almost half an inch.
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Mar 16, 2010 02:45
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Sockington posted:Only 1/2" ? Until the 3/4-1/2 adapter shears off. (not saying yours is cheap, or will break) I had a cheap rear end tool set that had a 3/8" wrench and 1/4" sockets with an adapter, it sheared off the first time I tried to break something lose. My friend sheared his 1/2 - 3/8 adapter too.
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Mar 16, 2010 03:36
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D C posted:Until the 3/4-1/2 adapter shears off. (not saying yours is cheap, or will break) It says "Princess Auto" on it. It's cheap.  I made sure to buy a couple of those adapters - lest I break one is a moment of need.
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Mar 16, 2010 14:10
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Aceshighxxx posted:That 1/2" breaker works great for just about everything, but it's juuuust barely too small for really stubborn axle nuts.
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Mar 16, 2010 14:46
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dv6speed posted:That's why they make pipe, and lifetime tool warranties. That new breaker bar I bought says specifically not to use an extension to the length. ... ... ...  yeah right like I'm going to listen to that.
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Mar 16, 2010 15:02
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Aceshighxxx posted:That 1/2" breaker works great for just about everything, but it's juuuust barely too small for really stubborn axle nuts. I use it anyway since I'm too cheap to get a 3/4", and it gets kind of scary putting your whole body weight on the 1/2" and watching the gap where the swivel is attached open up almost half an inch. Get a cheap torque multiplier and never worry about anything being too tight again. This one outputs up to 1000lb-ft with a 1/2" wrench.
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Mar 16, 2010 15:27
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Yeah but doesn't that multiplier only work on things like lugnuts? Useless if you can't anchor it somehow. The breaker bars are so cheap that I have both a 3/8" and a 1/2" drive version of the HF bar. Protip, the 1/2" HF breaker bar, combined with a 21mm Craftsman socket, will let you get the crank bolt off of a NB Miata without loosening or removing the front swaybar at all.
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Mar 16, 2010 15:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah but doesn't that multiplier only work on things like lugnuts? Useless if you can't anchor it somehow. That one requires an anchor, but they make ones that don't. They're just a simple gear reduction drive. The only problem with them is they tend to get expensive, fast.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:41
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frozenphil posted:That one requires an anchor, but they make ones that don't. They're just a simple gear reduction drive. The only problem with them is they tend to get expensive, fast. drat just looked at them and they started at around $180 on ebay and were all 1/2" input to 3/4" output with one from northern tool at $203. I cant see why theyre so expensive though, is it just a planetary gearset?
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Mar 16, 2010 20:05
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Harbor Freight posted:Creates 30 times more torque than a standard lug wrench, making it easy to shear off wheel studs.
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Mar 16, 2010 20:44
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RealKyleH posted:drat just looked at them and they started at around $180 on ebay and were all 1/2" input to 3/4" output with one from northern tool at $203. Pretty much, yeah (link has exploded diagrams). There are definitely cheaper ways to remove an axle nut, but if you happen to have access to a torque multiplier they are the best way to do it. I got to play with this bigass 4 stage multiplier at the shop. I used a standard 1/2" ratchet and one hand to break a 1" bolt loose that had been tack welded on 4 sides to a nut that was welded to a plate. It ruled.
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Mar 16, 2010 21:26
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frozenphil posted:Pretty much, yeah (link has exploded diagrams). There are definitely cheaper ways to remove an axle nut, but if you happen to have access to a torque multiplier they are the best way to do it. I got to play with this bigass 4 stage multiplier at the shop. I used a standard 1/2" ratchet and one hand to break a 1" bolt loose that had been tack welded on 4 sides to a nut that was welded to a plate. It ruled. Seeing that I guess it makes sense why quality ones cost so much even as commerical tools. Still I wish some chinese company would copy it and make a million of them.
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Mar 16, 2010 21:38
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Splizwarf posted:
If I had to shear off a lug or stud in order to get back on the road when I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere, sign me up.
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Mar 16, 2010 22:56
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In my experience, if a lug is getting sheared off, it's going to happen no matter what tool you are using, because some rear end in a top hat cross threaded it, or it's rusted/corroded really bad.
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Mar 16, 2010 23:01
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In my experience Kia Rio lugnuts are on tight enough from the factory to shear the studs. The studs are aluminum, there's only 4, and if driven on only 3 there's a 100% (3 out of 3 times in this woman's case) chance of snapping at least 1 more stud on the drive to the dealership. When they all go, the wheel folds under the car, which is actually sort of convenient. The entire wheel assembly needs to come apart to replace a sheared stud, and none of it is covered under warranty because the studs are on the disposable items list. Every time I see her in that car I'm torn between sympathy and  . Then I remember how horrible she is and the sympathy just drifts away on the breeze.The rest of my experience with sheared wheel studs is probably rust, yeah.
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Mar 17, 2010 09:57
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Has anyone ever used a Thru-Ratchet? I was given some crazy Kobalt 110 piece set that goes up to 1.25 inch sockets but I'm not sold on the design. I'm strongly considering returning it and getting something more like a Gear Wrench for even tighter spaces. Thoughts?
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Mar 19, 2010 18:37
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Cat Hatter posted:Has anyone ever used a Thru-Ratchet? I was given some crazy Kobalt 110 piece set that goes up to 1.25 inch sockets but I'm not sold on the design. I'm strongly considering returning it and getting something more like a Gear Wrench for even tighter spaces. Thoughts? They work fine as long as you don't put much torque on them. Real handy for putting a nut on a really long bolt like you'd find working on a deck or something.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:40
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Cat Hatter posted:Has anyone ever used a Thru-Ratchet? I was given some crazy Kobalt 110 piece set that goes up to 1.25 inch sockets but I'm not sold on the design. I'm strongly considering returning it and getting something more like a Gear Wrench for even tighter spaces. Thoughts? I have a small set and it's very specialized for when I use it (on my motorcycle to tighten a jam nut while using a tiny screw driver through the middle to keep the screw from turning). I'd think Gear Wrenches would get more use.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:54
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frozenphil posted:They work fine as long as you don't put much torque on them. Real handy for putting a nut on a really long bolt like you'd find working on a deck or something. Also handy for strut top bolts.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:59
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I accidentally bought this on my lunch break. 20% off coupon = $175, and I also had one of those free flashlight coupons!
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Mar 19, 2010 19:00
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ab0z posted:I accidentally bought this on my lunch break. 20% off coupon = $175, and I also had one of those free flashlight coupons! I looked at that on wednesday. I just couldn't justify it. I only have a few parts that need blasting and I'm drat near out of space in the garage. <sigh> Maybe after I move.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:12
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My problem now is that I need a much bigger compressor. I might get it in the form of moving to a new shop that has a real production grade compressor and lines plumbed throughout the shop.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:22
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ab0z posted:My problem now is that I need a much bigger compressor. I'm looking at a house with a 2 car garage and work space so I'd have plenty of room but I'm at least 4 months away from moving. Trying to curb my tool buying until then.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:24
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ab0z posted:My problem now is that I need a much bigger compressor.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:38
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ab0z posted:I accidentally bought this on my lunch break. 20% off coupon = $175, and I also had one of those free flashlight coupons! So jealous. I really could have used one while doing the body work and such on my Mustang. Naturally, the shop went and bought one the day after my car came back from paint and I moved it to a different garage to finish it.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:39
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A few months ago I picked up this to run my basic air tools http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94667 Now I also have another HF compressor with a burned out switch. I think it's this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93271 I've seen multi tank setups and I was wondering if it would be worthwhile or possibly to rig the 2 together. Thoughts?
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Mar 19, 2010 19:49
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I'll send you some pictures of our garage compressor setup if you like. 200ish gallon tank system, 5hp continuous compressor and three regulators plumbed with hard line. I can't remember off hand what the CFM of the setup is but we've never had to wait for it to fill up while we're using a ton of air tools. Yeah I'd certainly be interested. The shop I might be moving to is already set up, some really cool guys from the area work on all kinds of neat stuff there. Nash Laffeyette 400, datsun 2000 roadster, 68 jaguar e-type, various 60s corvettes. It's two brothers that meet up every saturday morning and work on these projects.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:58
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MonkeyNutZ posted:I'll send you some pictures of our garage compressor setup if you like. 200ish gallon tank system, 5hp continuous compressor and three regulators plumbed with hard line. I can't remember off hand what the CFM of the setup is but we've never had to wait for it to fill up while we're using a ton of air tools. I'd like to see this too. Rhyno posted:Thoughts? Multi-tank works fine if you've got the space, but that HF compressor pump might not like having to fill an extra 21 gallons. I went the reverse, I've got two pumps filling one tank. 
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Mar 19, 2010 20:26
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I would like to buy a welder soon, and wonder were the best place to buy one is. I am in canada, so there might be way higher prices here then down in the states, but where to I start comparing? I am looking for a 220v mig, have around 1500 cdn for the whole kit, welder, autodarkening helmet and cart. Don't really need the 220v, but I only want to buy 1 welder and friends have needed more than their 120 can put out. Most of what it would be used for is sheetmetal, and maybe a Locost frame if I ever get off my rear end. I was thinking I should just pony up and get a miller next time they go on sale for $1k or so, but are there any new options I should be looking for? Is the autoset and all that worth more? I think the last one I looked at was a miller 180, are there new/better options? What should I be looking to spend on one of those? I am wary of used welders because I have seen how people use them, and I am kind of lazy when it comes down to calling someone and driving to their house to be the first one to pick up a good deal.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:51
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Licoln or Miller. Don't bother with anything else. Something like this from Lincoln or this from Miller will do everything you want. I like Miller, but preference really is just personal opinion at this level; like Ford or Chevy. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 20:57
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frozenphil posted:Licoln or Miller. Don't bother with anything else. You really don't need to worry about any features or anything for what you're looking to do. Just compare duty cycle and you'll be set. http://www.weldingmart.com/item/Millermatic_180_AUTOSET_W/RUN_GEAR/CYL_RACK:230V_60HZ_1PH/2281 Just something like that? Is there a harbor freight for welders? Here in canada we have KMS and Princess auto, plus the welding stores. I guess the next step is go into the welding stores and see if they will give me a deal.
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Mar 19, 2010 21:00
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blindjoe posted:http://www.weldingmart.com/item/Millermatic_180_AUTOSET_W/RUN_GEAR/CYL_RACK:230V_60HZ_1PH/2281 Yeah, I actually edited my post above with that welder. It's a drat good piece that will do whatever you're willing to tackle in your garage. Harbor Freight welders work, but not well. Check out their duty cycle; most are like 10% or something absurd. That means you can only use them for 2 minutes out of every 10. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 21:05
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Two things... First harbor freight has some nice tubing cutters for $5. 1/8-1.25" capacity. Second, they have these fairly large tubes of epoxy for sale. Which only have .2oz of epoxy in them. That was upsetting to discover. Tonight I need to clean my garage, so I can use my freaking tools.
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Mar 19, 2010 21:09
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