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Rikthor posted:Just curious if anyone knows a link to either a good tutorial or video tutorial of wet blending when it comes to miniatures? I understand the concept and all but doesn't the actual paint dry out too fast, or are there special additives to make it last longer?
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Mar 17, 2010 17:22
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Rikthor posted:Just curious if anyone knows a link to either a good tutorial or video tutorial of wet blending when it comes to miniatures? I understand the concept and all but doesn't the actual paint dry out too fast, or are there special additives to make it last longer? I like LBursley's tutorials, here's his on wet blending. He covers acrylics and water based oils. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__U0wNcEwHU
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Mar 17, 2010 17:52
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I'm going to paint some cheap plaster terrain from Hirst Arts moulds and I was just wondering if I need to hit it with anything before priming. Shall I matte it first or will it be alright?
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Mar 17, 2010 19:54
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Priming should sort that out, but a thinned coat of PVA would be cheap insurance.
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Mar 17, 2010 20:04
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Miles O'Brian posted:I'm going to paint some cheap plaster terrain from Hirst Arts moulds and I was just wondering if I need to hit it with anything before priming. Shall I matte it first or will it be alright? You can just paint it straight away, I personally add some thinned white glue to the basecoat for added strength
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Mar 17, 2010 21:57
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Cross-posting my Dread from the Oath thread. It's also my biggest use of magnets so far, but I used pennies to give them something to attach on to. 
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Mar 18, 2010 00:21
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I've been using the new standard brush from Citadel. It's bizarre, the lack of weight really threw me off for a while. Anyway. Trying a new skin scheme on my Ratling Gun team. I was aiming for the highlight to be Elf Flesh, but... eh. Kinda hosed it up, I feel. Tips, critiques, comments, etc. (e: I'll be specific. I'm trying to work out a nice skin tone before I touch the Warlord for this army. These guys were Tausept, Ogryn Flesh x2, Tausept, Tausept:Elf 1:1, Tausept:Elf 1:2, Ogryn Flesh. They're really yellow. Should I have just gone right for the Elf highlight, or what?)   This is the mortal enemy of my growing ratman horde.  AWWW 
Blade_of_tyshalle fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Mar 18, 2010 |
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Mar 18, 2010 04:15
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:This is the mortal enemy of my growing ratman horde. Awesome highlighting you did there, duder.
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Mar 18, 2010 10:21
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I wish I could paint eyes that good. Excellent use of gloss to get that realistic shine, too
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Mar 18, 2010 10:39
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i should be doing my oath right now i'm so close to finishing it, a few edges, eyes and bases i could know it out tonight.. gotta stop being lazy, i've been chopping up vehicles and random chunks of metal plate type bitz with a razor saw to make basing items for my fire dragons, collectively standing in the ruin of a vehicle is the impression im going for also, warham cats :3  
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Mar 18, 2010 10:42
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Yog-Sothoth posted:I like cats, but this picture is creeping me right the gently caress out.
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Mar 18, 2010 10:59
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Sole.Sushi posted:I like cats, but this picture is creeping me right the gently caress out. 
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Mar 18, 2010 12:53
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crosspostin     
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Mar 18, 2010 13:48
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Captain Invictus posted:eerily relevant, even the facial expression She actually looks almost like a fuzzy vampire bat in that picture, perhaps she's a blood angel kitten. Though that weird rear end wide mouth makes her kinda look like the joker. Hm, a blood angel cat with a joker face? Why.. so.. Sanguinius YEAAAAAAHHHHHH!... i'll show myself out 
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Mar 18, 2010 13:56
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Yog-Sothoth posted:crosspostin One thing nobody's commented on yet is how great that bone and scorched steel combination is on the guns. I'm totally stealing it for some post-apoc troops. Speaking of post-apoc troops, Wargames Factory's sci-fi greatcoat infantry are nearing completion 
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Mar 18, 2010 19:07
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I have a couple of modelling questions. What is a good way of cutting clean arcs/circles/ovals in plastic card? I want to make some gothic-like arches for a space marine hallway. Can anyone recommend something flexible to use for ribbed pipes that is thicker than a bass string? And finally I need skulls! What's a good source of bulk skulls to be used in grooves, as floor trim, for everything? Like these: 
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Mar 18, 2010 19:46
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Those skulls are sculpted into the model itself, not added. GW sells a bits pack of pewter skulls somewhere on their website, though.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:12
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http://www.blackcatbases.com/product.asp?P_ID=542 looks alright to me.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:14
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The Saddest Robot posted:I have a couple of modelling questions. 1) Make your circle in pencil on the plasticard, and then score (not cut) into the card along the line, snapping it off when you're done. You may notice that this isn't exactly clean, but this is the only way I know how to cut a piece of plasticard without distorting it. Scissors are a bad, bad idea. After you cut it out, clean it up with a file or your knife, and there you are. 2) Flexible ribbed pipe? Have you tried looking for those thicker, ribbed drinking straws? The kind that are meant to be washed and reused, I mean. You should be able to find them for cheap at a party store or grocery store if you don't already own a bunch. You can also try looking in a home supply store's plumbing section for that flexible plastic pipe that's used for faucets. 3) You get get packs of skulls from the GW website, but I imagine you'll be wanting far more than 32 skulls. That being the case, I suggest making a resin cast of some skulls, so that way you have pretty much an unlimited supply for the initial investment of silicone and two-part casting resin. You can find both products on the Alumilite website. I recommend the starter kit, especially if you just plan on making the one mold.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:35
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Sole.Sushi posted:1) Make your circle in pencil on the plasticard, and then score (not cut) into the card along the line, snapping it off when you're done. You may notice that this isn't exactly clean, but this is the only way I know how to cut a piece of plasticard without distorting it. Scissors are a bad, bad idea. After you cut it out, clean it up with a file or your knife, and there you are. No no no no no. No. buy one of these:  A compass cutter. I get good circles in up to 2.0mm thick plasticard, down to about 15mm diameter. Below that the cutter twists & spirals inward but anything else, nice & slow repeated shallow cuts & you get perfect curves. Also, there are some good flexible ribbed tubes in various lego sets.
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Mar 18, 2010 23:16
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What do you guys think about how the deff rolla turned out?  Link for 'Uge  Link for 'Uge  Link for 'Uge
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Mar 18, 2010 23:55
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I'm unsure whether to crosspost from the Oath thread or not since you probably all read it, but hey. Here are some Ogryns. Click here for the full 700x209 image.  Click here for the full 700x292 image.  Click here for the full 700x318 image.
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Mar 19, 2010 00:36
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oh man can some please post some tips/links to making/painting a good looking banner out of greenstuff. It's my first time trying to do a decent one and I really want it to turn out.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:29
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Stick a ball of greenstuff in a ziplock bag. Use two pieces of stiff cardboard to rock the ball until it's flat. Let it cure for a bit. Cut it out of the bag in whatever shape you want, and roll it around the flagpole.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:32
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CyberLord XP posted:oh man can some please post some tips/links to making/painting a good looking banner out of greenstuff. It's my first time trying to do a decent one and I really want it to turn out. Take a soda can instead, and cut out a banner sized piece of aluminum.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:59
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I just stripped me first model ever (pKreoss) and for those who ever doubted, Simple Green is amazing. I had primed the model with black matte, hit it with deneb stone foundation, then bleached bone with a skull white highlight. I decided I didn't like how it turned out and repeated the same process over again before deciding to just strip and prime with white. I submerged the model in simple green for two hours and went to work with an old toothbrush... the paint came off in sheets!!..
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Mar 19, 2010 03:25
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Cakefool posted:No no no no no. I love you. 
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Mar 19, 2010 04:15
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Holy gently caress, if you want to buy FW Inks, do it at DickBlick.com. 2.79 a bottle if you buy three or more. Goddamn it, I wish I'd seen that months ago. I've been paying like $7 a bottle at Ben Franklins. Shiiiit. e: vvv short answer is "yes" though I have only tried a few of the regular and a couple of pearlescent ones. The black is good, too, but it dries glossy. That can be dealt with either by mixing it with matte medium or by dullcoting it. The guy from awesomepaintjob.com uses a bunch of different colors for his washes, though I've only tried the black for that so far. Fix fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 04:38
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Any colors worth getting other than white?
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Mar 19, 2010 04:46
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Fix, what do you use white inks for?
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Mar 19, 2010 05:34
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Mar 19, 2010 06:07
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Cakefool posted:No no no no no. This, a math sent and a new tube of super glue are at the top of my shopping list.
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Mar 19, 2010 06:33
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Fix posted:What effect does it have on your white acrylics?
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Mar 19, 2010 07:13
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Bobx66 posted:What effect does it have on your white acrylics? Well, the inks themselves are acrylic-based, and they pretty well behave like pre-thinned down paints. They mix well for tinting other colors (the grey on the basing of those sisters is just FW White and FW black), go where they're drawn, and dry smooth.
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Mar 19, 2010 07:33
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I really need to stop goofing around and finish painting my dudes. Haven't seriously worked on anything in months: Hopefully I can cut those bases free and make them look decent; the guy who gave me those 3 bikes used plastic glue on everything and they're on there pretty good.
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Mar 19, 2010 09:39
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Any colors worth getting other than white? Sepia and black if you are thinking of making your own washes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I
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Mar 19, 2010 12:30
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Leave those dudes on the base, cut a 25mm round base in half, and stick each half on each side of the cavalry base.
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Mar 19, 2010 12:59
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Leave those dudes on the base, cut a 25mm round base in half, and stick each half on each side of the cavalry base. pro tip: cavalry bases are actually only 23mm wide, not 25mm. I learnt this the hard way when making movement trays for a cavalry unit and wondered where the hell the extra 10mm came from in a unit of 5 guys 
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Mar 19, 2010 13:54
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poo poo, you're right. It still shouldn't be too hard to convert to a bike base though.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:00
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enri posted:pro tip: cavalry bases are actually only 23mm wide, not 25mm. I learnt this the hard way when making movement trays for a cavalry unit and wondered where the hell the extra 10mm came from in a unit of 5 guys I added some thin runners to the movement tray so th cav bases could 'slide' in, it hides a bit of the edge gap but its far from perfect.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:33
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