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Mar 25, 2010 21:54
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I love reading this thread. Every time someone posts pictures I just stand there marveling at how awesome they always are.
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Mar 25, 2010 21:59
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I swear you kill my productivity more than anything. *Finishes Painting Something* *Posts Pics* *PaintVagrant Posts Pics* *Desire to Paint Dies*
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Mar 25, 2010 21:59
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The checkers are really nice dude. More things need black and white checks on a red field.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:03
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edit: ^^^ yeah its pretty much the FW scheme, but it looks dope. very old skool Hehe, Ive got a bunch of time this week to get poo poo done, so Ive been knocking things out of my queue asap. Next up is zarkovs dread, which is primed and sitting on my desk, demanding 700 layers
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Mar 25, 2010 22:04
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Cakefool posted:$20 per refill? gently caress. Not only will a hobby compressor be fairly quiet (I can run mine next to me whilst painting without disturbing wife watching telly in the next room) but the pressure of a tank will change gradually, loving with your flow & control. Get a compressor with a tank, the pump only runs about 25% of the time on mine with a 3L tank Fair enough. What brand do you use? How much was it? With a regulator the pressure to the airbrush doesn't change.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:07
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 In-progress Alpha Legion termies for oath-thread-thingummy. I'm down to highlighting the blue, then it's bases & something on the scrolls and a billion touchups & I'll be happy. C&C please?
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Mar 25, 2010 22:08
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I like those cakefool, I think adding some depth to the lenses with a quicky gem effect might really make them pop, but otherwise they look pretty good. I will, of course, always advocate that any Alpha Legion guys need freehand scales somewhere on them
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Mar 25, 2010 22:14
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Freehand scales eh? Do you have an example image? I might as well have a go, little point if I'm not learning anything new.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:19
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Cakefool posted:Freehand scales eh? Do you have an example image? I might as well have a go, little point if I'm not learning anything new. I guess that "ultra/alpha marrines" thing had some scales. Id take a green thats a bit lighter than your base blue, maybe something a little pthalo like. p3 coal black is sort of what I mean, but maybe make it lighter. Anyways, take that bluish green and paint little assymetrical 4-6 sided shapes next to each other, leaving some of the dark blue between. After those dry, highlight the top edges of em with the base color+bleached bone or something . Instant scales
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Mar 25, 2010 22:27
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Scales are also mad easy to sculpt. I did mine by starting where I wanted the scale coverage to end, doing a sort of shaky edge, then build upwards. For the scales I just put down a teardrop of GS and pressed down into the tapered end, leaving the drop end a bit higher and overlapping the tapered end of the scale under it. I could take photos, but it's primed at this point. Painting them on might be more subtle though. e: this is on my bloodthirster. e2:my second bloodthirstrer.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:36
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You could also paint a more stylised scale mail pattern, if that's more your thing.
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Mar 25, 2010 22:36
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Here's an old picture. On his shoulder:
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Mar 25, 2010 22:38
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!amicable posted:Scales are also mad easy to sculpt. I did mine by starting where I wanted the scale coverage to end, doing a sort of shaky edge, then build upwards. For the scales I just put down a teardrop of GS and pressed down into the tapered end, leaving the drop end a bit higher and overlapping the tapered end of the scale under it. I assume you cut these pics out cause there's nothing there, but I put scales on my rhino's in the front armour inset:  I think I get what you mean PV, there was a fake ultramarine alpha legionnaire with scales on his legs.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:06
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Cakefool posted:I assume you cut these pics out cause there's nothing there, but I put scales on my rhino's in the front armour inset: Naw duder, check the post above yours. !amicable posted:Here's an old picture. On his shoulder: I didn't use the hex wrench scales. I think they look pretty mediocre; it's too honeycomb-ish. The method I used was more time consuming, but I liked the results; it was supposed to be some sort of chaos mutation.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:21
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So I got bored of painting my oathed stuff for a while tonight and decided to try something new. Now I've never tried painting NMM before so the first attempt probably isn't great but I thought I'd post it here and get any constructive critism. The photo makes the lines look pretty messy so I can probably clear that up.
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Mar 26, 2010 02:42
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I think that looks pretty awesome, Bluedini.
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Mar 26, 2010 02:44
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Im not sure it looks like metal, but it looks rad 
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Mar 26, 2010 02:47
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PaintVagrant posted:Im not sure it looks like metal, but it looks rad That's my main problem with it. I used some colours that were suggested to me but yeah it just doesn't look metal enough. I think it's probably a case of not getting the mixes right. I went with 50/50 Calthan and Snakebite Leather, then 3:1 SL and Bleached Bone, 2:1 SL/BB then 1:1, Skull White for some small highlight. Then washed over with Sunburst Yellow and added some more Skull White. I might try and experiment with adding a bit of yellow into the mix and see if it gives me a lighter shade for the layers and actually make it look like gold instead of layers of brown.
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Mar 26, 2010 02:52
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NMM isnt about the mixes as much as its about placement. Metal reflects light way differently than other surfaces. There are lots of NMM articles on CMON, check em out
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Mar 26, 2010 02:57
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Back from a couple days in the field doing Army stuff. Gonna get some painting done this weekend. 
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Mar 26, 2010 03:19
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Hey painting/sculpting/modeling type dudes, can you spare a minute and help me out? My friend is an ex-tyranid player who has switched to space marines in light of recent codex-related events. She loves to paint, her tyranids are great, but she's struggling quite a bit with painting power armor for some reason. Exacerbating this is the fact that she has chosen imperial http://yfrog.com/4rbackvmjx She wants to know what she can do to improve her paintjobs. Her marines come out looking pretty.. well, you can see what they look like. She's not happy with this but isn't really sure what she's doing wrong. I'm a really mediocre painter myself so I'm not really sure what to tell her, so now I come to you. Can you help me help my friend?
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Mar 26, 2010 03:29
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Sade posted:Hey painting/sculpting/modeling type dudes, can you spare a minute and help me out? 1 - trim moldlines 2 - spray prime white 3 - thin paints on a palette Also, paint the yellow in multiple thinned out coats.
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Mar 26, 2010 03:33
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By the looks of the photo, that primer is fuzzing out on you something awful. You may not like this, and hell, she likely won't like it as well, but stripping the models down and re-priming them is your only solution to fixing this problem. Primer, as we all know, loving blows. But, it's too damned important to skip. Fuzzing on primer usually happens because you are spraying too far away from the model, which causes the droplets to essentially "dry" before landing on your model. Another cause might be inadequate agitation of your can of primer: as PV has suggested numerous times, "stir" your can of primer by rolling your wrist and letting the agitator run along the bottom rim of the can. Personally, I don't spray primer until I rattle-shake it for 30 seconds, stir for 30, then rattle-shake in a different direction for yet another 30. Test spray on a piece of cardboard to ensure you have proper distance and good coverage, then go over the model in thin, quick coats. As far as the color scheme goes, a friend of mine has had awesome results with the following: Basecoat Iyanden Darksun Golden Yellow Sunburst Yellow Highlights Wash Sepia. Also do what PV said in the post above mine. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How loud is the Harbor Freight compressor? The benefits of silent operation may offset the additional cost (about $20 per refill). I can carry a normal conversation and normal volumes over the noise of the compressor. But, I do have a voice that carries, so I might be... Abnormal. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 03:46
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She apparently hand-primes her minis because she has no place to take them out and spray them. From what you guys are saying that's probably the cause of most of her woes. Does she have any options? Is there a "right" way to hand-prime besides suck it up and make some room for a spray box in the backyard?
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Mar 26, 2010 03:59
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Sade posted:She apparently hand-primes her minis because she has no place to take them out and spray them. From what you guys are saying that's probably the cause of most of her woes. Does she have any options? Is there a "right" way to hand-prime besides suck it up and make some room for a spray box in the backyard? Gesso. It's an acrylic-based, brush-on primer used for canvases. It has problems all its own, but if you can't spray outside, it's your only alternative. Gesso comes in black, gray, white and clear. Black is what most use, for the simple fact that people usually prime black, and it does have good coverage. Gray is like black, but the brighter color is better for brighter colors, such as yellow. White doesn't like to behave, and pools all the time, making it crappy for the purposes of priming miniatures. Clear, well, there's no reason to get that stuff. Not that I can think of, at least.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:04
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Gesso is what the hammiest of hams here will say. My suggestion is as follows: prime inside. If the fumes get to her, tell her to buck up and take it on the chin. A little bit of aerosol never hurt nobody; just ask the guys from Motley Crue.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:05
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Sade posted:She apparently hand-primes her minis because she has no place to take them out and spray them. From what you guys are saying that's probably the cause of most of her woes. Does she have any options? Is there a "right" way to hand-prime besides suck it up and make some room for a spray box in the backyard? Make it imperative to her that she needs to find a place to spray...even get in her car and drive somewhere else to spray em, if neccesary  Take packing tape, make loops of it, stick em to the top of a cardboard box, sticky side out. Stick models to it. Go outside, somewhere, spray
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Mar 26, 2010 04:05
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I'll pass the info along. You guys rule. e: Well that was easy. I told her paintvagrant ("that guy who did those rockin' imperial fist sternguard") says spray at all costs and she now asks for a white spray primer recommendation. Also, is there a particular kind of simple green that's better than the 200 other kinds for stripping paint? Sade fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 04:10
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I live in an apartment complex and I still spray on our pathetic excuse for a balcony. Beyond that gesso will set you free, although it's a pain if you have a ton of models.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:20
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Sade posted:I'll pass the info along. You guys rule. Krylon White Flat Spraypaint. Not the primer, the paint. As for Simple Green, the undiluted stuff is what you want. For a small investment, make a window-mounted spray booth. Some guy did that here.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:43
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Sade posted:Well that was easy. I told her paintvagrant ("that guy who did those rockin' imperial fist sternguard") says spray at all costs and she now asks for a white spray primer recommendation. Also, is there a particular kind of simple green that's better than the 200 other kinds for stripping paint? I use this poo poo:  Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer. People either love or hate this stuff. It dries extremely thin and out of 3 or so cans hasn't fuzzed on me once. It's about 5-6 bucks at a Discount Auto Parts or a similar store. PaintVagrant uses Armory White primer, which I can't find a photo of. It's sold at hobby stores, including The Warstore, for 6-8 bucks a can. I've never used it personally but he seems to know what he's doing.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:46
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I use this poo poo: I've used Armory Black for years now, ever since GW hiked their prices and reformulated their stuff to have a weird sheen on the finish. Old school GW primer with the red angry orc face on it was the best. . . But yeah, Armory's a little pricier than your average Krylon, but it's hard to screw up and almost always gives you a nice thin, even coat to work on.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:55
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Duplicolor was weird as hell the first time I used it- really runny and thin. It was actually pooling in crevices almost like a wash. I tried it again a couple weeks ago and it was fantastic. Perfect coverage, no fuzziness, nothing. Same can and everything. It was pretty cold for South Florida the first time, so if you use it maybe avoid colder temps? I'm sold on the stuff for sure now.
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Mar 26, 2010 04:57
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I use armory white, Ive also heard good things about army painter, but the only thing ive used in the past 5 years has been armory
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Mar 26, 2010 05:18
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If you really don't have anywhere to spray do it out your window. Put your models on top of a cardboard box like normal, hold the bottom edge of the box in your hand, lean out the window and spray. If you are worried about getting your hand with the spray you can always put on a latex glove.
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Mar 26, 2010 07:31
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It's impossible to find decent looking Kobold miniatures =(
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Mar 26, 2010 08:16
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I just primed 20 or so CSM in my garage because it's 1:00am and raining outside. Good times 
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Mar 26, 2010 09:02
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True story, the reason I only prime black is because about 20 something years ago a can of white primer ruined some models I'd saved up for  I really should try it again sometime.
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Mar 26, 2010 09:07
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Army Painter black/white primers are great, but not much cheaper than GW. Their colors are great in theory but are really hard to get paint on well afterwards (even if you dullcote afterwards).
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Mar 26, 2010 10:13
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