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mod sassinator posted:I have this set http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40035 which isn't high torque but similar (who uses an impact gun on their lug nuts though??). It's a great set--use one of the 20% off coupons to knock the price down a bit. The sockets are surprisingly heavy and decent quality for Harbor Freight. Who uses an impact wrench on their lug nuts? Me. Every single time. With these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92890 They're surprisingly reliable and consistent (verified / compared with higher and lower torque sticks and a torque wrench when I first got them). Makes wheel swaps super quick. That set you linked is just what I was looking for. Thanks.
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Mar 28, 2010 20:09
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EVERYWHERE 
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Check those torque sticks again, they have a nasty habit of stiffening up after a while.
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Mar 28, 2010 20:52
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Splizwarf posted:The advice I keep getting is to buy a cheap beam-style wrench (like the $10 Harbor Freight one) and only take it out of the case to calibrate others. After scouring the internet for solutions (I don't have a work bench with a vice clamp on it, so that knocks out 90% of them), this is exactly what I was thinking.
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Mar 28, 2010 20:53
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meatpimp posted:Who uses an impact wrench on their lug nuts? Me. Every single time. With these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92890 I wanted to say something like this too. I haven't manned up (read:  ) and gotten torque sticks yet but my Mercury's lugnut torque spec IIRC is "75 to 120 foot-pounds". I torque wrench them to about 95 usually, but it's clearly written for a torque stick. And my 2002 Volvo v40 just lists a Volvo "Special Tool" torque stick where you'd expect to find a lug torque listing, it was hard to find an actual number.oxbrain posted:Check those torque sticks again, they have a nasty habit of stiffening up after a while. Work hardening? Regarding cordless 1/2" impact guns, what about this? http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-22614-14-4-Volt-Impactor-Cordless/dp/B000K6K5YA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1269805184&sr=1-2 I've given up on the $100 limit for lack of options. I'm a Volvo fag so the Bosch label is always a little  .
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Mar 28, 2010 21:03
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What jack stands do all of you guys use? I'm tired of crushing the pinch seams on my car, and I haven't found much in the way of unibody-friendly stands.
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Mar 28, 2010 22:31
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MetaJew posted:What jack stands do all of you guys use? I'm tired of crushing the pinch seams on my car, and I haven't found much in the way of unibody-friendly stands. I use some Craftsman jack stands that i've owned for like 10 years. All of my cars have been unibody and there is always a place to put stands. You shouldn't use the pinch welds for stands.
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Mar 29, 2010 01:12
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I picked this set up at HF for like $14. The single wrench I needed at Sears was $16. Hopefully it does the trick, if not, I'll have to get that proto tool and special-order it.  I need these anyway though, my biggest metric wrench was a 14mm previously.  edit: I also use the standard Craftsman jackstands. Work just fine for me, always have. I used to have four, but then my father-in-law stole two of them when they left for Texas, now I only have two.  But they work fine!
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Mar 29, 2010 01:22
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CornHolio posted:I picked this set up at HF for like $14. The single wrench I needed at Sears was $16. Hopefully it does the trick, if not, I'll have to get that proto tool and special-order it. I needed a 20mm for the top of my M3s front strut and that same set got my hopes up and then dashed them. I had to order the $16 single from Sears (and put the stupid front suspension back on the car and wait a week for the wrench to arrive). My craftsman jack stands and jack are working great so far.
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Mar 29, 2010 01:40
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havelock posted:I needed a 20mm for the top of my M3s front strut and that same set got my hopes up and then dashed them. Did it break or just not work some other way?
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Mar 29, 2010 01:45
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wav3form posted:I use some Craftsman jack stands that i've owned for like 10 years. All of my cars have been unibody and there is always a place to put stands. You shouldn't use the pinch welds for stands. My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.)
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Mar 29, 2010 02:10
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MetaJew posted:My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.) I see... My VW has a few good spots for jack stands but I suppose other cars may not. What do other owners of 240SXs do???
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Mar 29, 2010 11:14
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My boss wants to buy a small mig welder to supplement our stick welder. Gas is not likely an option at this time as our shop is small and already over crowded with not a lot of room for storing a tank, so flux core is the way to go for the time being at least. A page or two ago, it was generally agreed upon that Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart are the best brands and well, there are a few lincolns available locally at Canadian tire for sale. I think my boss is stuck on lincolns himself, because our stick welder is, and its been utterly dependable. Not to mention that he has not one single motherfucking clue about any of this type of poo poo. A guy at work once said "He doesn't know anything about anything manly".  Note: pros and cons, personal experiences requested This is the first one I've read the specs, obviously its not really for heavy duty poo poo, but thats what our stick welder is for. I just wonder, in a pinch could this be run off a 2600 watt generator or is it going to be too much for it to handle. Number two I'm sure that this one will be too much for the generators that we have at work. This is the third This one definitely not because its a 230 volt model. The only con I could find with this one is we would have to either get a second 230v plug, or just not use both welders at the same time, but thats probably not a big deal since it rarely occurs that there is a huge line up of poo poo that needs to be welded at any particular time.
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Mar 29, 2010 14:33
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scapulataf posted:Why, for gently caress's sake, would you use that smilie?
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Mar 29, 2010 15:16
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We've got the same setup on the farm, a stick welder for heavy duty welding, and a smaller Lincoln we picked up for body work / sheet metal. We don't use the Lincoln that much, but it is handy to have - we're not sorry we bought it. The only advice I'd give is go for a 230v model, and stick with the Lincoln wire, any other types we try keep jamming in the whip or on the feed.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:10
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CornHolio posted:Did it break or just not work some other way? There isn't a 20mm in that set. I think it goes 18/19 and then 22/23 Should have been more specific, sorry. I was happy to come across a set with lots of wrenches in it and then I noticed it didn't have what I needed.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:15
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wav3form posted:I see... My VW has a few good spots for jack stands but I suppose other cars may not. What do other owners of 240SXs do??? On the S13 the stand point is actually the frame rails. However, on the S14 (what I have), the frame rails are not structural components (read: paper thin) so that's out. I think most of the drifter crowd doesn't care if they can't change a flat on the side of the road so they're fine with destroying the pinch seam. I'm honestly not sure what everyone does. Whenever I've asked this question on the local 240sx forum I get funny looks.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:17
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havelock posted:There isn't a 20mm in that set. I think it goes 18/19 and then 22/23 Oh OK I should be good then since I need a 22mm and it came with a 20/22. Or maybe it was a 22/24. I dunno, either way, I just hope I have enough room for it.
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Mar 30, 2010 03:17
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meatpimp posted:Why, for gently caress's sake, would you use that smilie? I was looking for the siren one, but couldn't find it. Petit.Conan posted:We've got the same setup on the farm, a stick welder for heavy duty welding, and a smaller Lincoln we picked up for body work / sheet metal. We don't use the Lincoln that much, but it is handy to have - we're not sorry we bought it. The only advice I'd give is go for a 230v model, and stick with the Lincoln wire, any other types we try keep jamming in the whip or on the feed. Yeah, thats the plan for us, though not much sheet metal stuff. But stuff thats not heavy duty enough to require the stick welder. I've found that mig welding is just much faster (and easier) than stick, though I haven't used one for a few years. When building poo poo that doesn't necessarily require heavy duty welds, once I get used to mig again, I will be able to do it faster with the mig and that means less time spent, so reduced costs for my boss.
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Mar 30, 2010 13:05
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MetaJew posted:What jack stands do all of you guys use? I'm tired of crushing the pinch seams on my car, and I haven't found much in the way of unibody-friendly stands. Alternatively, make your own standing seam adapter.. I can't see that being difficult. a block of HUMW, or wood with the grain going across the seam would do nicely.
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Mar 30, 2010 14:49
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scapulataf posted:I was looking for the siren one, but couldn't find it. http://forums.somethingawful.com/misc.php?action=showsmilies Also: it's just siren. 
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Mar 30, 2010 16:36
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scapulataf posted:I was looking for a wrench, but couldn't find it so I used a horse's penis. Maybe vicegrips would have been a better choice.
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Mar 30, 2010 18:23
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Splizwarf posted:Maybe vicegrips would have been a better choice. Hmmm. I don't recall posting about animal genitalia. Mig would have come in handy today, building a deck for a new industrial cart we bought. Its a pain in the rear end tack welding expanded metal with a stick....
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Mar 30, 2010 22:12
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MetaJew posted:On the S13 the stand point is actually the frame rails. However, on the S14 (what I have), the frame rails are not structural components (read: paper thin) so that's out. I googled and other owners use the subframe. Here's a link I found with an official looking picture from a manual of some kind. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/250705-jack-stand-placement.html You can make the special jack stand pad thing out of hockey pucks or some hard wood to use on the pinch welds. Just some ideas...
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Mar 30, 2010 22:31
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wav3form posted:You can make the special jack stand pad thing out of hockey pucks or some hard wood to use on the pinch welds. Just some ideas... I use these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952
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Mar 30, 2010 22:42
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wav3form posted:I googled and other owners use the subframe. Here's a link I found with an official looking picture from a manual of some kind. Rhyno posted:I use these I found that Zilvia thread a few days ago and was considering those Harbor Freight rubber pads, but I would also need to get the matching stands. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have them as I would definitely use them over my crappy ramps + slick garage floor. The only issue I've had with making my own pads out of hockey pucks or wood is that I wasn't sure how to get a good interface/mating surface with the stand I was using. I felt that it seemed sort of precarious to balance the car between stands and a block where nothing mates up very well.
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Mar 30, 2010 23:32
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MetaJew posted:My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.) The back end of most cars doesn't really weigh that much. Working on a car that is held up by the rear differential sounds unstable and unsafe to me.
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Mar 30, 2010 23:36
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Rhyno posted:I use these I have those jack stands (not the pads) and I hate 'em. I, too use the emergency jack points to hold up the car (but I can use the front suspension point once it's up high enough). The cutouts on those jack stands are too deep and I start hitting other parts of my underbody before the seam sits down in the groove.
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Mar 31, 2010 06:42
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MetaJew posted:My FSM says otherwise (and says to use some non-existant stand adapter). I suppose I could put stands under the front cross-member where the jacking point is, but I prefer the idea of having the stands spaced as far apart as possible. As far as the rear end goes, I have absolutely no idea where else you could put the jack stands, since the jack point is the differential housing. (If anyone has an S14 240sx and has better suggestions I'd be glad to hear them.) If your rear jack point is the diff (which is fine for jacking, and you won't be working under a jack with no stands, right?) why can't you put stands under your rear axles?
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Mar 31, 2010 07:01
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Splizwarf posted:If your rear jack point is the diff (which is fine for jacking, and you won't be working under a jack with no stands, right?) why can't you put stands under your rear axles? I don't think a 240SX is a solid axle. Sounds dicey to me.
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Apr 1, 2010 13:43
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It's common to jack from the rear diff, I do it on my 280z and have on my impreza and numerous other subarus. I wouldn't support it there to work on it though, I just use that to jack it up then support with stands in the appropriate places.
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Apr 1, 2010 16:38
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So I broke an exhaust stud, and therefore I am pulling the head to get it out. So I need a recommendation for a few brands / sets. I need to buy a set of impact sockets (already broke a few regular ones), a new set of metric sockets, and something to pull out the old stud, buried about 1/4 of an inch in the head. I'm thinking left handed bit and extractor. Thing is, these are the type of tools where if I buy cheap, I screw myself (round a head bolt, break an extractor in the stud), so I need to spend the cash. Plus who doesn't love new sockets? Recommend me some quality stuff.
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Apr 5, 2010 03:21
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Kynetx posted:I don't think a 240SX is a solid axle. Sounds dicey to me. Right, lifting from the pumpkin is perfectly fine. But putting stands under the pumpkin or the half shafts sounds like an easy way to ruin your day. I did find these stands, but at $90 a piece I don't think I'll be buying them any time soon.  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200358558_200358558 These could be good, but I'd need to go find some rubber blocks or buy a few hockey pucks.  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200313386_200313386
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Apr 5, 2010 03:42
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I was just given an incomplete set of rather crappy looking Trade Craft brand 19.2v cordless tools, seen here: There is a small circular saw, two  reciprocating saws, and a jigsaw, which look like they have never been used. However, there is no battery or charger. Google tells me that BJ's sold these things a few years ago, but is not telling me where I can get replacement accessories. So, does anyone know where I could pick up a battery / charger for these things relatively cheaply? I need a 19.2v battery pack that will fit the following socket: Thanks in advance, if anyone knows.
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Apr 5, 2010 04:17
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Black88GTA posted:Sorry, bro, looks like your Sawzall-chucks didn't come with the chain.
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Apr 5, 2010 07:13
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I've been looking into getting some tools of my own, so that I don't have to keep borrowing my father's. Does anybody have recommendations on a good starter metric set of crescent/socket wrenches that falls somewhere between the bottom shelf at Harbor Freight and Snap On in price? Also, any suggestions on an engine hoist that's not liable to do more harm than good? On a side note, I've never realized how expensive Snap On tools are. gently caress. Me. Running. I look at my father's toolbox with a whole new level of respect, since it's probably worth more than any given car my family owns. I also now have a massive fear of losing any (more of) his tools.
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Apr 5, 2010 08:02
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Coaster do you have a harbor freight store? They usually sell the cheap grade then the higher end grade stuff. Their impact sockets are as good as any of the craftsman stuff. I'd just get craftsman stuff or the higher end harbor freight stuff.
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Apr 5, 2010 08:18
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The auto parts stores around here carry tools that are slightly above HF quality, but 2-3x the price.
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Apr 5, 2010 16:50
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The Husky (home depot brand) set my friend has is pretty nice. The ratchets are more comfortable than my craftsman ones. I think they have a decent replacement warranty but I'm not 100% on that. Edit: pretty sure this is the set he has. http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053 NinjaTech fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 17:32
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Black88GTA posted:I was just given an incomplete set of rather crappy looking Trade Craft brand 19.2v cordless tools, seen here: I wouldn't waste a battery on those. Go get a DC power supply and feed them whatever voltage you need to get the job done.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:42
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Coasterphreak posted:I've been looking into getting some tools of my own, so that I don't have to keep borrowing my father's. Does anybody have recommendations on a good starter metric set of crescent/socket wrenches that falls somewhere between the bottom shelf at Harbor Freight and Snap On in price? Buy anything with a lifetime warranty, without that it's not worth getting cheap tools. Craftsman still gets good press because their lifetime is no-questions-asked, you can cut a wrench in half and return it. I know a bunch of dudes who make custom tools from Craftsman stuff because if it doesn't work out, it's not a waste. I dunno what the return policy on Kobolt, Husky, Stanley, and DeWalt is but they're comparable for quality AFAIK. Kobolt and Husky are Lowes and Home Depot, Craftsman is Sears. Also I think DeWalt is more aimed at the woodworking crowd?
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Apr 5, 2010 19:42
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