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Vaporware posted:There's very little cross-interest between the fantasy types and the realism guys. I mean if it was just techniques then yeah great, but you can't expect every niche to get along. I started on planes as a kid, then did Warhammer for about a decade in high school and college. I took about 8 years off, and now I'm back building Gundams. I pay attention to all of them but post more Gundam stuff than here or Warhammer. One thread would degenerate into a riot way way too fast.
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Mar 18, 2010 23:01
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I see you point, guys. Onward, then! Two questions about tools: 1) what do you use for spreading putty? 2) Narita gets a lot of use out of his 'scribing tool' for redrawing panel lines, and for bridging gaps between parts. Is this thing available at your local hardware store?
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Mar 18, 2010 23:21
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If you have steady hands a nice sharp needle is really all you need to scribe plastic. A nail filed to a sharper point would work too probably.
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Mar 18, 2010 23:55
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No Pun Intended posted:Well using high tech odor analysis (huffing it) the Tamiya enamel thinner gives of a mild turps smell so I guess it should work. While it should work, the Tamiya thinners often contain other things in them (ie flow agents and retarders), so while it should work. You might end up with horrible results, so do a test first on a sacrifical part/model.
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Mar 19, 2010 00:23
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Here's my first model and first time using an air brush, still needs a dull coat and I'm trying to decide if I'm done weathering it. Not concerned with color accuracy or scale to much just learning/refining techniques.
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Mar 19, 2010 02:08
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alcyon posted:Nowadays just for basic basecoats, colormodulation (not really fond of that tecnique) Man, I definitely agree with that. Quite honestly I hate colour modulation. It's become the new "it" technique as of late, and in my eyes it just makes things look wrong. It's not entirely terrible when someone colours the horizontal surfaces a slightly lighter shade than the vertical, but when they start putting colour gradients on the sloping surface..... yikes. Hell, the spanish are calling it Zenithal Light. 
Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 09:52
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Nebakenezzer posted:Quoting me about scratchbulding Nebakenezzer posted:1) what do you use for spreading putty?  But you might want to look into those little dull blade and prods that clay sculptors use. Available in any arts&crafts store.2) (Carpet)needles and such work fine for little adjustments, but if you need/want to do a lot of (re)scribing of panel lines I think it best to buy something that is comfortable to hold for a longer time. I have a scribing tool from Hasegawa that I am quite fond of. basically it is nothing more than a steel pen with a nice rubbery grip. I bought it for a couple of hundred yen, just a few bucks. Well worth it. (Don't forget to use some masking tape as a guide. It's really easy to veer of course and ruin your work. Kallikrates posted:Awesome fighter Bloody Hedgehog posted:Zenithal Light.
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Mar 19, 2010 11:10
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alcyon posted:
Endorsing both these. The clay tools are great for putty manipulation and the panel scriber is much easier to hold than a needle. Both are cheep, so even if you only use it once or twice ever it's still worth it.
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Mar 19, 2010 15:38
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I just chuck a needle into my pin vise or use the back of an xacto blade that the very tip has been broken off of for scribing. Anyways taking closeups only shows me more areas where I need to work on improving. 1/48th scale    
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Mar 20, 2010 01:39
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First model? Holy poo poo, well done.
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Mar 20, 2010 07:59
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Print-your-own-decals trip report: Jesus Christ, that's terrible. I had to use about 5 coats of varnish, which made them a lot thicker than I'd like. They're peeling up at the edge, which I might be able to fix when dry or might not. The long stripes go all over the place; I think it might work better if I cut them up into smaller pieces before putting them on? Or maybe I'll just have to mask and paint them instead. Plus it looks like my printer needs cleaning. And the colour's off. Time to strip off and start again.
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Mar 22, 2010 16:32
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Was really excited about this German Stug tank model I was building. Was coming together just perfect. Tell I was almost done and realized I put the cannon mounting in upside down, there was no way to fix this without completely tearing the whole thing apart 
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Mar 22, 2010 17:03
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Unkempt posted:Print-your-own-decals trip report: ouch. Take heart in that cameras make everything on a miniature look worse.
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Mar 22, 2010 18:24
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Unkempt posted:Print-your-own-decals trip report: Did you use micro sol and micro set?
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Mar 22, 2010 18:28
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Unkempt posted:Print-your-own-decals trip report: That's too bad. Outa curiosity, did you use the special decal printing paper you can get?
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Mar 22, 2010 18:57
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Bobx66 posted:Did you use micro sol and micro set? Yes, but it's the first time I'd used those, too. I think the varnish I had to put on was preventing them working like they should. Nebakenezzer posted:That's too bad. Outa curiosity, did you use the special decal printing paper you can get? Yep, that's the stuff. I think I'm going to mask + paint the stripes, then just use it for the logos, which will be a lot easier to fit properly. Not today though, more paint to buy...
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Mar 22, 2010 19:09
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Unkempt posted:I think I'm going to mask + paint the stripes, then just use it for the logos, which will be a lot easier to fit properly. Not today though, more paint to buy... Just pring the logos onto cardstock, and then use it as stencils for the logos. Do the old seperation of colors and then you can paint the whole lot, there are many places on the net that you can send images to, and they will produce a set ot stencils in masking materials, and then you can paint away.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:54
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So I'm in the process of casting a bunch of tiny figurines out of resin and I've decided to accept a small number of air bubbles and just fill them in later. The figures are about an inch high and the bubbles tend to be 1mm or less. I'd like to know what my options are for a putty to fill the bubbles. Ideally the putty would: -bond to resin reasonably well -hopefully be a one part putty -be liquid/pliable enough that it can fill crevices or bubbles easily with a pin or exacto blade tip -dry hard so it could be carved, filed or sanded to shape. I bought a tube of Squadron white putty and it doesn't work for my needs at this scale- it extremely hard to work into the bubbles, and dries with a very flaky/inconsistent texture that is hard to file or sand flat. Any suggestions?
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Mar 23, 2010 12:55
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Otterspace posted:So I'm in the process of casting a bunch of tiny figurines out of resin and I've decided to accept a small number of air bubbles and just fill them in later. The figures are about an inch high and the bubbles tend to be 1mm or less. I'd like to know what my options are for a putty to fill the bubbles. Ideally the putty would: Regular Tamiya grey putty is usually the most popular for one-part putty. If you can live with two-part, Aves Apoxie-Sculpt is great.
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Mar 23, 2010 13:02
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Agreeing with both those options, or maybe the slightly thinner (and stickier) Apoxie Paste, but that can be a bit more challenging to work with.
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Mar 23, 2010 13:25
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This thread was a great find! I appreciate the talent and dedication that's gone into some of this stuff. A few years ago, when I first got into the Air Hogs Aero Ace biplanes, I wanted an aircraft carrier for them to land on. The Lexington, CV-2, was the logical choice.   It's mostly cardboard. The working catapult (shown launching an Aero Ace) is made from a toy foam glider launcher from the 99 cent store. alcyon posted:Hah! Buy me plat and I'll tell! Alcyon, did that cheap slob ever buy you your plat?
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Mar 24, 2010 00:54
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Haha, that carrier is both hilarous and awesome. How long is it 4, 5 feet or something? And to answer your question: No sir, he did not and I am deeply hurt and offended.
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Mar 24, 2010 07:04
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alcyon posted:Haha, that carrier is both hilarous and awesome. How long is it 4, 5 feet or something? Well I never. Cakefool, you embody the lie. Alcyon, I harbor a soft spot for builders who make their own tools and work from scratch. Your attention to detail is insane. Therefore, I have purchased your well-deserved platinum upgrade for you. Just tell me where to send it. The model Lexington is about 10 feet long (roughly 1/72 scale) and is roughly to scale for the wingspan of the Aero Ace.  This is the Saratoga, CV-3, Lady Lex's sister, playing catch with biplanes. :3  Fun Fact: The Lexington and the Saratoga had mahogany decks!
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Mar 24, 2010 23:29
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Wait... Ten feet? As in fit to be used as a coffin after death? I once met a builder that built a carrier for his 1/144 Zeros, that was already insanely huge. Can't imagine this being twice that size. Most generous of you buying me plat. No need, but tell you what: since we are all in such a giving mood, I'll repay the favor and give 15$ to a charity of your choosing. alcyon fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 23:58
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Popete posted:Was really excited about this German Stug tank model I was building. Was coming together just perfect. Tell I was almost done and realized I put the cannon mounting in upside down, there was no way to fix this without completely tearing the whole thing apart Tear out the cannon mount but leave everything else and then make it some kind of wreck diorama?
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Mar 25, 2010 00:16
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alcyon posted:Wait... Ten feet? As in fit to be used as a coffin after death? Dear sir: gently caress Charity, and give her my kind regards. Donate your money to the hobby store, please. I never saw a ten foot long coffin. But yeah, look at the people nearby. Plus, it folds down! 
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Mar 25, 2010 06:08
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Stick some polystyrene underneath, douse it in solvents and it would make a fine vessel for viking burial at sea.
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Mar 25, 2010 07:29
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Hey, sorry for the delay but I've been busy with over-due pregnant wife. I'll buy you plat right now, if you haven't already got it other ways. Right now as in SA secure payment system is open in another tab. edit: and apparently expires after 5 minutes. I promised, if you want it you got it. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 15:37
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Cakefool posted:Hey, sorry for the delay but I've been busy with over-due pregnant wife. Now there is a valid excuse I have you know one time I was raiding in WOW and my wife went into labor Long story short, we totally kicked some noob asses, my son was named over teamspeak
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Mar 25, 2010 23:40
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After some heated debate behind closed doors I'll be posting my laughable attempts at weld lines in penance.
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Mar 26, 2010 11:23
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Print-your-own-decals trip report part 2: It might not look it, but that's actually a lot better. The stripes are painted and I don't have an airbrush which explains the uneven stuff, but they look much better in natural light (that's a close up with flash). I printed the decals at work on a laser printer and just gave them one thin coat of varnish; they're fitting a lot better than they were. There are a couple of small wrinkles, luckily on a transparent bit, which I'm going to have a very gentle rub at with very fine sandpaper; I think I'm going to touch up the stripes a little more, and then stick on a few coats of varnish over the whole lot, and then it'll be done for now. Not perfect, but not too bad for a first attempt.
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Mar 31, 2010 09:33
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Why bother with all that work, aren't you just going to crack it in half anyway and throw it into a miniature jungle???
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Apr 1, 2010 03:30
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Otterspace posted:Why bother with all that work, aren't you just going to crack it in half anyway and throw it into a miniature jungle??? I'm intending to carefully separate it into at least four pieces and display it in mid-explosion, but frankly I'm not sure if I'll have the heart to take the saw to it when I get to that point.
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Apr 1, 2010 09:32
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Its a definate improvement over your last try, much cleaner. Should really add another coat of paint over the stripes though. Are you going to recreate a real crash or something?
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Apr 1, 2010 12:25
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alcyon posted:Its a definate improvement over your last try, much cleaner. Should really add another coat of paint over the stripes though. I might have to. Haven't had time to do much with it yet, but long weekend coming up. alcyon posted:Are you going to recreate a real crash or something? Not a real one: http://lostpedia.wikia.com/wiki/Oceanic_Flight_815
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Apr 1, 2010 13:13
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I thought you guys would appreciate this: http://www.finescale.com/en/How%20To/Articles/2010/01/DESKTOP%20WALLPAPER%20Erin%20Lantzs%20132%20scale%20F-16.aspx It was in the last issue of FSM. The article talked about the painstaking process of masking off all those sections of different colors, which resulted in one of the most amazing paint jobs I've ever seen. I have to think that the military probably wouldn't do this for real because it would be too much of a pain in the rear end, although maybe they could get robots to paint it that way.
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Apr 1, 2010 14:01
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Neuspinne buildlog #01: Proof of Concept q: So, what are you going to build? a: Well, this little beastie of course: a 'Neuspinne'  q: Uhh...what the hell is that? a: That, my friends, is the essence of awesomeness: a four legged "Maschinen Krieger" robot from the future with laser pew-pews and stuff. It was designed some 25 odd years ago by Kow Yokohama Sensei. q: Yokohama eh? So, this is some anime BS is it? a: No sir, it certainly is not!!! q: What about that faux-German name? a: Kow designed a whole lot of robots and armored suits (Ma.K) for a scifi universe where two forces battle each other for possession of a shattered and radioactive earth in the 29th century (yay for global nuclear holocaust!). This cute little spider happens to be part of the German speaking faction. q: So, this is Nazi's in space? a: Unfortunately, a lot of people seem to think so, but that is definitely not the case. Robots armed with panzerschrecks and with names like 'Panzer Aufkalärungs T.W.47' just looked/sounded cool, I guess. (Especially since just about every word was spelled wrong by the japanese creator(s).) q: Ok whatever, that sounds awfully stupid, but it looks kinda neat. Where can I buy one? a: Yes it does and no you cannot. This has never been available as a kit. The spider pictured above is unique and based on drawings by Kow. I do know of three other fan-build spiders, all loosely based on this design. There was also a tiny garagekit made in 1/76 scale (this is 1/20), but that doesn't count. (About a dozen other Ma.k (garage)kit are still being made and available, but most designs have been OOP since the early nineties and extremely loving expensive.) q: How are you going to make this then? a: I do have a lot of visual reference material, but above all one super important clue: the 'Neuspotter' head! q: what? a: Luckily for me a lot of Ma.k AI designs are build with the same odd looking head, the Neuspotter head.  (left the'Oskar' and right the 'Neuspotter') I have one of the 'Neu' heads from another kit, but only used it as reference to sculpt my own. Like so:  I really love the design of the head. It has some beautiful flowing curves and is completely asymmetrical. q: how? a: I made a skeleton from some pvc tubes, covered it with polyurethane foam from Sika and did the final shaping with Aves Apoxie. I made sure the measurements were correct using a calipher. The pu-foam is really nice stuff to make large shapes with without adding too much bulk. If I had made this from pure epoxy putty it would have been several times heavier than it is now (really important considering the spindly legs). Both Renshape and Sika make are excellent high density foams for this purpose. DIY centres often have lighter PU foams for sale at much lower prices, but the higher density foams are much stronger and much easier to shape. This first sculpt was just a proof of concept, a trailrun to make sure I could replicate the shape and curves. Next up is a more detailed and larger version at twice the scale (1/10)...
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Apr 1, 2010 19:00
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Funkydory. Would you consider molding & casting the head, to save yourself some work & make money off fellow nerds? Also, could I get some putty advice please? EModels uk is just down the road from me and have a whole bunch of different putties. What would you suggest for something like weldlines?
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Apr 2, 2010 19:55
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Thought about casting it (that is one of the reasons i am not using any kit parts, to keep the possibility of casting parts legal), but apart from the hassle the main problem is the weight: a solid resin piece would be quite heavy. Best solution I can think of is vacuforming a hollow piece. But for now I'll better focus on making the drat thing first. Had a look at that store-link you posted. No two-part options there, but best one of the lot is the Milliput. The Mr.Putty is quite nice as well, but both set rather quickly and can be messy to work with. Although I am all for supporting ones local hobbystore (I wish I still had one), tbh they don't supply proper slow setting and non-sticky putties. Most of the products on that site are gapfillers and not as useful for making stuff. If you are looking for a British supplier of two component putties, try this link: http://www.barrule.com/Workshop/scratch%20builders%20paradise/aves%20apoxie%20sculpt.html Halfway down the page is a test package of AvesApoxie, about 100grams of the stuff for just under 6pounds. Well worth it as a testcase. (they also sell a lot of cool basing stuff for your warhams btw.)
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Apr 2, 2010 21:05
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Cakefool posted:Also, could I get some putty advice please? EModels uk is just down the road from me and have a whole bunch of different putties. What would you suggest for something like weldlines? If you're used to greenstuff, then milliput (as an example) handles really differently (particularly when you add water) so it's worth just messing around with whatever you get to see how it works, how it dries etc, before using it on any models. I tried milliput after greenstuff and was somewhat startled that it was very different.
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Apr 2, 2010 21:25
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