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Devlan Mud posted:Oh hey finished 22 stands of tiny mans this weekend so now I can stop putting off selling them Those look rad as hell man, Im sure some grizzly old dude who knows too much about ww2 will give you real cash money for them
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Apr 4, 2010 15:36
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:09 |
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Is ProCreate water soluble?
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Apr 4, 2010 15:50
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Cakefool posted:Stoke-on-trent here, close enough?
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Apr 4, 2010 15:56
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!amicable posted:Is ProCreate water soluble? I ordered a pack last week, if you want when it gets here ill send you some to try out?. Ive never used it before though. Ahh sorry I didnt mean to double post....
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Apr 4, 2010 15:58
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Teadrinker posted:I ordered a pack last week, if you want when it gets here ill send you some to try out?. Ive never used it before though. That would be awesome, him me up with a PM or at aanghelescu at gmail dot com
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Apr 4, 2010 16:03
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I think I'm going to order some procreate myself. I like messing about with GS but it is way too fiddly for my skill level. If this stuff is easier to use then hopefully I'll have more success with it.
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Apr 4, 2010 16:15
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procreate is the poo poo. way easier to work with than greenstuff.
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Apr 4, 2010 16:28
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I was also busy in this tiny mans weekend:  
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Apr 4, 2010 17:26
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Well, poo poo. I just gave a model a coat with Krylon matte sealant. It's... really cloudy. I was the usual distance from the model I always spray at, but it seems to have gone on hella thick and it looks kinda blue, like skim milk. It's not dry yet, though, but did I gently caress it up?
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Apr 4, 2010 18:58
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Well, poo poo. It might clear once it has dried, otherwise maybe brush on some matte varnish, should make it come clear again.
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Apr 4, 2010 19:01
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Well, poo poo. Did you spray it on like spray paint? A lot of people (including myself) really gently caress up a model the first time. All you need to do it very very lightly dust the model in the matte sealant and call it good. I made the mistake of spraying the model like I was base coating it. Oops!
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Apr 4, 2010 19:06
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Anphrax posted:Did you spray it on like spray paint? A lot of people (including myself) really gently caress up a model the first time. All you need to do it very very lightly dust the model in the matte sealant and call it good. I made the mistake of spraying the model like I was base coating it. Oops! gently caress me.  Well, if it dries nicely, lesson learnt, I guess... I'm really proud of that model, too. I hope I didn't ruin it. e: Lesson learnt, came out fine. Not doing it that heavy again. (And uh, now the grass on the base looks frosty, like it's early morning in November. Should I have grassed after sealing?) Blade_of_tyshalle fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Apr 4, 2010 |
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Apr 4, 2010 19:08
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I did that to my Avatar a couple of years back. First time and all that. Never looked quite right again.
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Apr 4, 2010 19:17
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For the bad sealant job, there are two causes. One is unfixable, and the other just needs more sealant to fix. Hopefully you got lucky. The one time it happened to me, I gloss coated then matte coated and they came out fine. Devlan Mud posted:Oh hey finished 22 stands of tiny mans this weekend so now I can stop putting off selling them They own but at least they don't look too hard to paint for when you can afford to actually own some on the long term. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Apr 4, 2010 |
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Apr 4, 2010 19:31
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If you mess up with matte I thought the solution was to regloss it and try again.
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Apr 4, 2010 19:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They own but at least they don't look too hard to paint for when you can afford to actually own some on the long term. It's quite literally basecoats then devlan mud haha. I've got basically the same stuff as that but in paratroopers for when I want to actually play flames of war, since the paratroopers are about twice as many points as GIs, you only need about half the amount of expensive support. I'm just really kinda burned out on 15mm americans right now, and don't really want to drop the 150 some bucks I'd need to flesh the paratroopers up to 1750 for tourney play. That and I have tyranids to finish, as there's actually more than one person here I'd play 40k with had I a finished force. Seriously though 15mm models are really easy to paint, and if you have the stomach for batch painting like a mofo you could pretty easily do an entire army's worth of infantry in a day or two. I think if I really put the effort in, and had all the models, I could do everything I need for a full army of paratroopers in 2 weeks, tops. It's just more money than I want to spend right now, and more willpower than I have currently to muscle through it.
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Apr 4, 2010 20:58
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!amicable posted:Is ProCreate water soluble? No, it is not. Though, I can see where you'd ask this question: with a bit of water and my fingers, I can make sheets of ProCreate that are literally thinner than tissue paper. PaintVagrant posted:Thanks man, I had forgotten that you did that writeup. You know a bunch about sculpting, have you done any really elaborate projects or any full sculpts? I know a bunch, sure. However I still kinda suck at it. I haven't really done any large sculpting projects: nothing terribly elaborate, and no full sculpts as of yet. Closest thing I have is that greater daemon I worked on. I can repost pictures of it if you want.
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Apr 4, 2010 21:24
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Sole.Sushi posted:I can repost pictures of it if you want. Yeah do it. Id def like more sculpting projects to be shown in this thread, so thanks everyone who has shown their kewl stuff the last few weeks. Yog: Can you get some better pics of that? It looks cool but teh flash/blur make it hard to see
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Apr 4, 2010 21:40
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Kind of at a loss as to how I am going to base my Bretonnians. Usually I will try to pick a color and scheme that will frame and complement the colours on the models. Or you know, paint tomb kings in the desert. Because thats where they come from. When my models are every colour, what do I do? 
Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 4, 2010 |
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Apr 4, 2010 21:46
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I need help with a paint scheme for Eldar: Basically was planning to go about it the same way as PV's guide, but with green. I don't play on it to be quite so dark, I was a bit limited by the painter. I do want it to be kind of dark, like an inverse Biel-Tan. Anything I should do to change it? Also, if I were to paint robes, what would be a good complimentary color?
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Apr 4, 2010 21:56
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Miles O'Brian posted:Kind of at a loss as to how I am going to base my Bretonnians. Usually I will try to pick a color and scheme that will frame and complement the colours on the models. Or you know, paint tomb kings in the desert. Because thats where they come from. paint them every colour. Seriously though, if your brets are bright then you should probably go for a duller/darker/ low profile base
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Apr 4, 2010 23:01
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Miles O'Brian posted:Kind of at a loss as to how I am going to base my Bretonnians. Usually I will try to pick a color and scheme that will frame and complement the colours on the models. Or you know, paint tomb kings in the desert. Because thats where they come from. Do them Agincourt stylee. And by that I mean build up layers of mud until you can only see the tops of their heads. 
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Apr 4, 2010 23:11
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Got distracted by a chaos sorceror when I should have been painting my hive tyrant. Only the armor, the gold and the white of the cloak are finished. The cloak/backpack isn't even glued on. Debating whether or not to try some directional lighting on him.   Tried a freehand Tzeench symbol, it's a bit rubbish. 
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Apr 5, 2010 00:04
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It may be the flash washing it out, but the armour looks really flat, granted it's dark blue, but it's hard to tell it has been highlighted in places, which is pretty important on pieces like marine armour. The gold looks really bright at least, but I think could benefit from some shading in the crevices, and some mithril highlights. On the up side the cloak so far looks excellent.
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Apr 5, 2010 00:09
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Devlan Mud posted:It may be the flash washing it out, but the armour looks really flat, It's very dark, it could probably do with a little more highlighting. I kept it muted becuase I'm thinking of putting wire lightning around the staff and applying some lighting from that. I have no idea what you mean about the gold though, it's got a scorched brown base and a devlan mud wash, the crevices are pretty dark. I could go up to mithril though, there's a mithril/shining gold highlight there already.
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Apr 5, 2010 00:16
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The pictures don't show the gold well on the staff because of the angle, so maybe it's better than I can see, and the flash is washing it out some, so I'll take your word on it!
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Apr 5, 2010 00:34
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Devlan Mud posted:The pictures don't show the gold well on the staff because of the angle, so maybe it's better than I can see, and the flash is washing it out some, so I'll take your word on it! Here's a better angle.  There's one plate on the staff where I've accidently gone over the shading (it's just above his hand).
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Apr 5, 2010 00:42
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Here's a better angle. I think your highlights are not light enough. I can only see them on the spikes of the chaos star. If you are layering, then you need more layers in the highlight. If you are only doing one highlight, it needs to be lighter. Maybe hit the entire thing with a sepia wash or delvan mud wash then come back with a mithril silver and shining gold highlight at like 7:3? Just a touch of gold to warm the silver.
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Apr 5, 2010 01:05
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!amicable posted:Just a touch of gold to warm the silver. Hm, if I drop another wash on it, it'll lose the highlighting entirely I think. I'm laying btw, it's burnished Gold, 50/50 shining gold, shining gold, then mithril with a little shining gold. Might just go to pure mithril and see what happens.
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Apr 5, 2010 01:11
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Hm, if I drop another wash on it, it'll lose the highlighting entirely I think. I'm laying btw, it's burnished Gold, 50/50 shining gold, shining gold, then mithril with a little shining gold.
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Apr 5, 2010 01:11
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I dont mind the gold, but I think the blue is a bit too flat. Even if you want to keep it dark, some thin edge highlights might sharpen up the details a bit. If you are still considering building up the directional lighting, then forget I posted this :]
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Apr 5, 2010 02:20
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That and the eye on the left shoulder pad needs to be red
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Apr 5, 2010 02:48
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bhsman posted:I need help with a paint scheme for Eldar: I think you should paint up a test figure with whatever shading/highlighting you intend to do, because that flat mock up looks really dull and bad. I would do the undersuit a different color than the plates if you aren't going to vary them up at all, or make sure to do plenty of highlighting. You also have red/green/white, so right now it looks mostly Christmas elf - make the sash a different color, maybe an orange or pale blue instead.
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Apr 5, 2010 03:15
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Ashcans posted:I think you should paint up a test figure with whatever shading/highlighting you intend to do, because that flat mock up looks really dull and bad. I would do the undersuit a different color than the plates if you aren't going to vary them up at all, or make sure to do plenty of highlighting. Yea, the painter I used wasn't exactly big on depth of color or anything.
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Apr 5, 2010 03:37
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I didn't have anything to do today, so I finished painting the unit of black knights I started the other day. Quick and dirty, but they'll get the job done until GW releases cooler models.
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Apr 5, 2010 04:39
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah do it. Id def like more sculpting projects to be shown in this thread, so thanks everyone who has shown their kewl stuff the last few weeks. Here's what I got:  That lighter, splotchy color is where I sanded the green stuff down to get rid of my fingerprints.  As you can see... It's not terribly impressive. Just layers of green stuff over a frame (made out of the rest of the model), then shaped into cloth. I was inspired by the lore about Praag from Fantasy, so I decided to make him suited for northern climates, hence the fluffy lining on his robes. From the better side, where the folds in the cloak are more apparent. Also, a good look at the base I put this bitch on.  "Get off my lawn, you rear end in a top hat kid!"  Here you can see some green stuff touch-ups. The back of the head was hollow after I repositioned the jaw, so I had to sculpt some "hair-feathers." The wrist also needed some blending, and the bottom of the staff needed to be extended. As for the sleeve...  Here's a better shot of that.  Finally, a semi-good look underneath the outer robe into the inner one. Very semi. Hope you enjoyed it, PV. I'm not the best, but I'm proud of how it came out.
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Apr 5, 2010 05:28
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 Hell yeah, chapter master for my space sharks! Test marine color scheme so far, all I got... camera phone shot!  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Apr 5, 2010 08:27
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Build up the red in layers - put on a layer of a darker red (Scab/Mechrite/Skorne Red work) before the coat of Blood Red and it'll pop a lot more. Other than that he owns.
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Apr 5, 2010 08:55
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Whew, all the green stuff work on my farseer is done at last. Just waiting for the sash to cure a bit harder (made a new one) so it stops sagging when I pick it up, then I can photograph it all together. Also need to pin my plan B into the hand and sand the joint a little but the actual dicking about with chewing gum putty is done! Nobody answered before but what's the procedure for cleaning vaseline residue off greenstuff before priming? About half ofit was lubricated with vaseline, it's all days dry and mostly sanded too by now, but i'd rather not have the priming gently caress up so I'll want to give it a clean before I go ahead, so how do I clean it? I was thinking cotton bud (q-tip for you crazy yanks) with a bit of warm soapy water but I don't know if that's right since petroleum jelly probably isnt water soluble?
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Apr 5, 2010 08:56
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 01:09 |
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The soap will break the surface tension of the water enough to allow it to get under the oil - the same reason why it works on your hands/clothes.
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Apr 5, 2010 09:01
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