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James Woods posted:They're actually considerably stronger than the stock screws and have the added bonus of not corroding. RC Screwz will also refund or replace your kit if you ever break a screw or are otherwise unsatisfied. krushgroove posted:What screws are you familiar with? After owning a HPI and a Losi, I would rate the kit screws much higher in terms of strength. I bought a bunch of stainless screws to fight corrosion, and any that required high tension or threadlock left me reaching for my dremel to slot the fucker and get it out. I bought them from a hardware store specialising in boating gear (mostly stainless steel fasteners). On the other side, I went to a fastener shop and bought the same stuff in their lowest grade regular screws and it cost me half as much and I couldnt strip them if i tried.
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Mar 29, 2010 13:15
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Screws are an easy place for companies to cut corners on costs, so you'll see a lot of Taiwan/China kits with really cheap screws, or the super low-price kits from just about anyone will have the cheaper screws. You can ID the really good Japanese screws by very 3 small letters stamped around the hex opening, IIRC these screws have the hex opening actually machined rather than drilled then stamped into hex shape. These are what the designers use on their personal cars and test mules  I have bent RC Screwz screws before, I think on my Pro 4, but I wouldn't ever say it was one of those 'I didn't hit anything!' type accidents I'm no designer but I'm sure there are different grades of stainless steel, so you'll find some will just bend easier than others.If you race and/or take care of your car pretty well (i.e., don't put it away wet) you probably will never have to worry about corrosion anyway.
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Mar 29, 2010 13:33
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Well, I just had my first runaway. In all my years of RC I've never had a car take off. I swapped out the throttle servo in my buggy for a servo with some more torque for more braking power. When I reassembled my brake linkage I didn't use loctite because I'm an idiot. I was running it up and down the street adjusting the high speed needle when it took off wide open. I have bald worn tires so I turned sharply and it spun, and I drove it right into the curb. I ran my rear end over and killed the motor. Apparently one of the little arms that holds the brake linkage in place came undone, and when I gave it full throttle it moved the linkage in just the right position that it jammed the linkage against the gas tank and stopped the servo from moving which held the throttle wide open. The buggy looks alright, but we'll see if my engine is toast. (luckily it was my OS VG not my ninja.) Scary as hell.
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Mar 29, 2010 21:52
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The engine is probably fine, on a big track those things are at full pelt for several seconds, don't worry. Next time: wrap a thin rubber band around the carb arm and something solid on the car, so if anything works loose or the radio loses signal the carb will shut down to idle speed. Even if you get an electronic failsafe this is a good thing to do.
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Mar 29, 2010 22:25
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added another upgrade to my current project, which is my Tamiya DT-02 Super fighter G. so far it's had all ball bearings installed, a full titanium screw kit (they were cheap, so what the hell) Rear damper tower in carbon/alu and now my latest upgrade, which is a set of sway bars, because i got annoyed at the front wheels losing grip in turns. hopefully i've done it properly, at the very least the sway bars now make the suspension go as i want it to, gonna go to somewhere rough and have a ride with it. i'm planning on getting the remaining 3racing alu upgrades for it, along with a proper motor cooler, a ball diff and universal linkages for the rear tires. for anyone wanting to mess about with RC on the cheap, i can fully recommend the DT-02 cars, they are cheap, come in RTR or kit form, and has tons of upgrades if you scour ebay.
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Mar 29, 2010 23:22
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Edited my post on the previous page about boxes. Now added pics.
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Mar 30, 2010 00:04
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krushgroove posted:The engine is probably fine, on a big track those things are at full pelt for several seconds, don't worry. Yeah, it's all good. It still has great compression, and because it was still running so rich it didn't get that hot. I actually have a little spring that returns the carb to closed, but the way the brake linkage got jammed nothing could move. I got super lucky. I checked everything over tonight and nothing was bent, broken, or damaged. The only thing I lost was a small set screw.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:58
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Dug up the RC stuff from my dad's place tonight - my old Plano toolbox, two TC3s, my 2PEKA, and some other tools / parts. I was slightly shocked to feel the tires on the TC3s were not just "not rock hard" - they were actually still sticky to the touch. They've spent at least eight years in a garage.
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Mar 30, 2010 04:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Dug up the RC stuff from my dad's place tonight - my old Plano toolbox, two TC3s, my 2PEKA, and some other tools / parts. The rubber is pretty wild stuff - it's made in Taiwan and China for a reason (lax environmental laws *edit* and cost of course). The 'best' stuff used to be made in Japan (remember Yokomo Sprints?) then IIRC the factories had to start complying with environmental regulations and now everything comes from other countries. I could be remembering everything wrong but this is roughly what I was told by one of the HPI senior designers many years ago. HPI tires used to all be made in Japan as well (still love the Super Radials), of course price considerations helped make the decision for the move to Taiwan/China. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 09:21 on Mar 30, 2010 |
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Mar 30, 2010 09:10
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Ah, screws. I was checking the Blitz ESE kit page (hell yeah I'm getting one) and noticed this in the text: '> High quality class 10.9 and class 12.9 hardware used throughout for ease of maintenance and durability.' I looked this up and found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASTM_F568M Class 10.9 Alloy steel; quench and tempered Yield strength (min) [MPa] 940 Tensile strength (min) [MPa] 1040 Core hardness [Rockwell] C33–39 Class 12.9 Alloy steel; quench and tempered Yield strength (min) [MPa] 1100 Tensile strength (min) [MPa] 1220 Core hardness [Rockwell] C38–44 Once I find out what the 'normal' kit screw is we'll have more info about screws than we can ever have hoped for...
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Mar 31, 2010 09:18
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I applaud your efforts in the search for the perfect screw, krush 
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Mar 31, 2010 09:51
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haha just spreading the info... I will be emailing Erik (some say he's the first 'E' in the ESE...) to get to the bottom of this, somehow.
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Mar 31, 2010 10:16
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krushgroove posted:haha Ask him when they'll be releasing a Blitz 4x4 so I can give them a big bag of money.
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Mar 31, 2010 18:53
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since we have a few HPI people here, what can you tell me about the HPI sprint2 drift? i'm about to get one for really cheap with the standard ESC and motor, but otherwise no electronics. update: bought the car, no thanks to advice given here! anyway, the original pinion (28t, 48 pitch) weren't supplied with it, but i'd like to know if the 19T pinion i have would work with the supplied 87T spur gear. the motor i will be using is a 19T drift engine, as far as i understand. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 2, 2010 19:57
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Holy poo poo, I must have this RX-3 RC car. http://www.abchobby.com/productimg/car/savanna/index.htm Its part of a whole line of 70s/80s Japanese cars coming out available here. http://www.abchobby.com/
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Apr 5, 2010 12:19
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Frobbe posted:since we have a few HPI people here, what can you tell me about the HPI sprint2 drift? i'm about to get one for really cheap with the standard ESC and motor, but otherwise no electronics. The car would be badly undergeared with a 19t pinion, the main side effect being it would be slow. Probably have overheating problems as it would be spinning near max RPM constantly, too. The 28/87 gives a final drive of 7.57:1 - going down to 19/87 makes it 11.16:1. For racing 6.5 is about normal for a 19 turn motor, so even the stock gearing is a little short, but makes sense for drifting. Long story short, get a 28 tooth pinion for that setup.
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Apr 5, 2010 14:54
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Welp, AE finally releases a FT SC10 http://www.redrc.net/2010/04/associated-sc10-factory-team-kit/
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Apr 5, 2010 16:54
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kuffs posted:Welp, AE finally releases a FT SC10 http://www.redrc.net/2010/04/associated-sc10-factory-team-kit/ Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck this is exactly what I need  Buyin' this and going racing, motherfuckers. Edit: gently caress, not out until June. Goddamnit. Offical PR is at http://aedownloads.com/press/in_040210_sc10ft.pdf IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 17:51
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Where's my 4wd version AE!?!?!  In the meantime, I'm considering building a rally car. There's a TT-01 on rctech that I'm eyeing. James Woods, you got any insight on that? I need 200mm arms for it, right?
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Apr 5, 2010 19:23
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Looks good...I just wish mini-pins weren't the coming standard for SC racing.
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Apr 5, 2010 21:57
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kuffs posted:Where's my 4wd version AE!?!?! No kidding. My next SCT will be 4wd, the handling is so much better.
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Apr 5, 2010 22:11
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Check out what I picked up for $250 guys   Click here for the full 1280x853 image.  Click here for the full 1280x853 image. Revo 3.3! Got it off my friend, came with the Escalade body and the stock Revo body plus plenty of fuel. Still need to pick up a new EZ Starter, plus charger for the receiver battery and body clips, but for $250, i'd say it's an excellent deal 
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Apr 6, 2010 03:21
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kuffs posted:Where's my 4wd version AE!?!?! Replacing the arms with those from the Long Arm kit would allow for a tad more suspension travel but standard Rally modifications will get you to the limit of your rear Diff's outdrives already. That modification is really to give you a wider range of bodies to choose from and that can be achieved with wider offset wheels. The TT-01 is arguably the most popular car to modify for rallying and in the RC Rally videos I post probably two thirds of the cars are TT-01s under the shell. This is because the TT-01 is a cheap, shaft driven 4wD, with a bucket chassis, and tons of cheap hop up parts available. If you do get it I'd suggest the following mods right off the bat in addition to chopping the chassis for more A-Arm travel, sealing the electronics and gears, and getting some Tamiya Rally Block Tires. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-yeah-racing-steelalum-universal-shaft-tamiya-tt01e-tt015v2rd-p-25584.html http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-3racing-alum-solid-axle-tt0125lb-p-25246.html http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-55mm-touring-4pcs-dp1002ti-p-25326.html When things start breaking from rally driving you can look into replacing a few parts like the arms with aluminum.
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Apr 6, 2010 22:12
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I'm tempted to buy a DF-03Ra, but I don't know that the battery area will fit my weird 34mm tall Chinese lipos. Anyone have a DF-03 they could measure for me?
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Apr 6, 2010 22:53
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kuffs posted:I'm tempted to buy a DF-03Ra, but I don't know that the battery area will fit my weird 34mm tall Chinese lipos. Anyone have a DF-03 they could measure for me? Hmm.. Let me check my workbench. You mean one of these?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Ironically (pay attention GBS lurkers, this is a proper use of irony) I was setting up my DF-03RA for on road use for some drifting tomorrow when I read your post. To answer your question, my calipers say the battery box, located on the bottom on this model, is unfortunately just over 24mm deep.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Although I must say that if you're thinking of getting into Rally this is far and away the best option performance wise and can be had as an ARTR kit(minus radio gear) for $200 or less and is worth buying a few Turnigy batteries for. There is something to be said however for taking a car and modifying it yourself as the process of figuring it out and fabricating and testing are half the fun. I've done both and still can't tell which of my rally cars, the DF-03RA or my modified Cup Racer are faster on a rally type surface. I actually just bought a DX3E from a local hobby shop yesterday so I could have a second transmitter that will work interchangeably with my existing radio gear without having to reset or rebind anything. Next week I'm hoping to go down to Golden Gate Park and pit the two up against each other on some of the baseball diamonds and hiking trails. edit: Some inspiration. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/04/06/video-super-slo-mo-r-c-cars-lose-all-sense-of-scale/ James Woods fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 23:38
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James Woods posted:Ironically (pay attention GBS lurkers, this is a proper use of irony) I was setting up my DF-03RA for on road use for some drifting tomorrow when I read your post. To answer your question, my calipers say the battery box, located on the bottom on this model, is unfortunately just over 24mm deep. Aha! that's how the battery gets into one of those. That's quite a sharp angle on the rear drive cups. Solved with the CV joints you posted? I won't melt the transmission with my 10.5 and 2s lipo will I?
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Apr 7, 2010 00:39
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James Woods posted:worth buying a few Turnigy batteries for. I was hunting through Hobby King the other day and I wasn't able to find anything cheap that would fit. Recommendations?
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Apr 7, 2010 00:44
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kuffs posted:Aha! that's how the battery gets into one of those. Exactly, I have the same units on my DF-03RA and the Cup Racer comes standard with CVDs because HPI is awesome. I've seen guys put upwards of a 8.5-6.5 in these and they've handled it but the drivers couldn't. When I finally get around to really loving around with mine (as soon as I'm done ruining my marriage with my SC-10) I'll be putting a brushless system in probably in the 9-13.5 range along with some metal gears to toughen up the transmission and a slipper clutch, which is a must for any brushless build on these things. kuffs posted:I was hunting through Hobby King the other day and I wasn't able to find anything cheap that would fit. Recommendations? These will be a tight fit but if their measurements are correct they'll work. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9514&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_30C_Lipo_Pack These will definitely fit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10724&Product_Name=Turnigy_4000mAh_2S_30C_Lipo_Pack_%28DE_Warehouse%29 You could always opt for the graphite chassis seen here http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-df03-chassis-graphite-conversion-kit-for-tamiya-dark-impact-3racing-df0315wo-p-10000732.html which will eliminate any battery fitment problems as you'll strap em' on with Velcro like a buggy. Trust me I'm tempted. James Woods fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 01:30
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Frobbe - I missed the part above where you got a Sprint 2 I think these are underrated cars myself, they're quite durable and easily raced. I think they're perfect for vintage trans-am racing. I have one I play with sometimes, it does duty as drift car and muscle car just by changing the wheels and body, basically a general all-around street car. Picked up a white GT-R body with bronze Rays wheels recently, too, looks awesome. I'd love to put a set of the 32mm wide Potenzas on it, it'd be a little more scale then. Speaking of scale, I've been talking with a friend of mine at Axial, they have some big new release coming in about a month, does anyone have an idea what it is? He's keeping very tight-lipped about it but there's a bit of speculation about it. edit: just saw this, speaking of the Sprint 2...http://www.autoblog.com/2010/04/05/video-the-coolest-r-c-footage-weve-seen-in-a-long-time-stars/ This is a full-size car ad done for Nissan...using the Sprint 2. Shot in Canada and in the second video, which is the 'making of', from 1:54 you can clearly see a Sprint 2 chassis used for the camera car, and a minute later you can see the wheels, tires and more of the chassis driven by the RC driver for the ad. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 10:59
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Yeah, Axial's had huge ads in RCCA for the past two months talking about some important release.
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Apr 7, 2010 15:09
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Crosspost from the AI video threadRealKyleH posted:Nissan R/C Car (quite good) edit: oh goddamn im an idiot
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Apr 7, 2010 18:30
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krushgroove posted:Speaking of scale, I've been talking with a friend of mine at Axial, they have some big new release coming in about a month, does anyone have an idea what it is? He's keeping very tight-lipped about it but there's a bit of speculation about it. Yeah - I speak with them a few times a week. I have yet to get a single answer out of them. They are leading me on to believe it is going to be different from their current line up, but they won't tell me anything. I say that not knowing if it is a crawler or not, and if it is a crawler if it is something completely different like a worm drive axle, or an MOA(Motor On Axle) design, if it is a mini, scale, or comp. They just keep telling me to wait for the press release. It sucks. On a side note; thinking of selling my AX10 to buy one of these instead:  Scale trucks are just so much cooler than a competition rig.
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Apr 7, 2010 20:26
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krushgroove posted:Frobbe - I missed the part above where you got a Sprint 2 that's a pretty awesome ad, especially once you spot the pink alu all over the place. my sprint 2 is sorta a restoration project, i've got a few parts on order, and i need some more pink alu parts for it to make everything pop. too bad it's a discontinued car.
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Apr 7, 2010 21:19
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Cage posted:Crosspost from the AI video thread No worries, just tell people who ask it's an HPI car  Somewhat Heroic posted:Scale trucks are just so much cooler than a competition rig. Yes Even Matt K agrees!Competition crawling is waaaaaayy to far-out for me now, with digs and sliders and upside down and sideways this and that. Bringing it back to scale is what I'm all about, like short course (although the racing side of it will go the way of buggy racing, it seems), Cup Racer, scale crawler, etc. I told him the other day that I spent months and a LOT of money building a ladder-chassis 'comp' rig, and I took long enough with it that the Scorpion-type layout is very old news, it's not in-line, doesn't have worm, doesn't have dig, blahblahblah so it was basically a waste. I should sell it as a 'ready to go crawler'. Frobbe posted:that's a pretty awesome ad, especially once you spot the pink alu all over the place. PINK?! that's purple, buddy. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 23:36
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Well, this is a weird issue. Got everything I needed for my Revo, hooked up the receiver batt. to my TRX Power charger... nothing. Light stays solid green, doesn't flash, turning the switch to on with the truck unhooked from it doesn't result in anything... Tried hooking the Charger up to my 7.2v Starter battery with the adapter... Green light blinks, charges fine  Is it possible my 5-cell just took a complete and total poo poo and is unable to charge at all?
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Apr 8, 2010 07:07
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T1g4h posted:Well, this is a weird issue. batteries can do so much weird poo poo, that i firmly believe that RC electronics are created by goblins intend on killing mankind.
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Apr 8, 2010 11:15
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For the record - Factory Team SC10 kit (AE #7034) is available for preorder at a lot of shops now, at a street price of $250.
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Apr 8, 2010 18:32
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Frobbe posted:batteries can do so much weird poo poo, that i firmly believe that RC electronics are created by goblins intend on killing mankind. I feel the same way about GM electronics, truth be told :P
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Apr 8, 2010 18:59
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Tower Hobbies recently delisted most of the older RS4 parts  . Trying to hunt down some rebuild kits for ball diffs and I'm not having much luck. I need to go home and check the diffs I have and ration any parts I find.
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Apr 9, 2010 16:40
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You know, if you're gonna blow $2k on something to sit on your shelf, why not buy a nice art piece instead? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/387149-heavily-modified-savage.html I will never get monster truck guys
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Apr 9, 2010 16:46
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