|
Wow, been a while since I've seen Hardcore Racing stuff, I think they moved entirely to stuff for quad bikes, etc. If you need RS4 ball diff bits, the rings are the same as Associated I think, and just get the same size balls in ceramic nitride. I forget if the old old ones are SAE or metric but they're commonly available. You can buy them by the bushel load from McMaster-Carr's website.
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2010 16:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 13:01 |
|
|
The balls won't be a problem - 2.0mm and 2.4mm. I'll was gonna get them from Avid, but I'll check out McMaster-Carr. I was more worried about the diff rings and thrust washers. I didn't know the rings were the same as Associated. Looking a little closer, looks like my GT diff rebuild kit will drop right in. I'll take some measurements when I get home.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2010 17:17
|
|
|
kuffs posted:You know, if you're gonna blow $2k on something to sit on your shelf, why not buy a nice art piece instead? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/387149-heavily-modified-savage.html That's nothing compared to some Clodbusters and T-MAXXs i've seen.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 00:56
|
|
|
Haha, oh man savage guys that use LST shocks are the best. Apparently the only thing that makes the LST a better handling truck is the shocks and it has nothing to do with the super LCG or the longer susepension arms.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 03:38
|
|
|
Well, to be fair, I hate the fact that my MGT has 8 goddamn shocks. I'd really rather just rebuild 4 large ones than 8 smaller ones. But something tells me this guy wasn't in it for the ease of maintenance.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 08:30
|
|
|
oh darn, gonna need a new spur for my sprint 2 now  managed to sorta grind down the teeth on it by not fitting the body shell properly, so it ground against the teeth on it. so now my drifter goes really, really slow. heh.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 18:54
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Haha, oh man savage guys that use LST shocks are the best. Apparently the only thing that makes the LST a better handling truck is the shocks and it has nothing to do with the super LCG or the longer susepension arms. What's wrong if they just look cool? Better than 8 crappy shocks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
 It seemed very obvious to me when I was at the store to get a shovel today, that I had to try and make a harrow for the baja. Thus a rake was bought, and a quantity of shapelock (the white gunk - it's a thermoplastic that melts in hot water) was used to fix it to the back of the car. The pokey bit is for attaching extra weight. It did sort of work, actually.. Except that the harrow tended to spend more time above ground than in it. Even with 5 pounds extra weight attached. Are there any RC tractors with three point hitches?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2010 20:40
|
|
|
drat, that's giving me some ideas about gardening now with my off roaders 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2010 08:49
|
|
|
Astrolite posted:
So I fixed my Baja 5T this weekend. Replaced the entire differential, put in the Turtle Racing transmission case, and the Turtle Racing transmission brace. I thought that I had blown the diff, but after putting it back together with all this cool new (expensive) crap, I find that I only shredded the dogbone pin in my Dark Soul meaty bone. It was a  moment if I ever had one.
Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Oct 13, 2023 |
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2010 22:50
|
|
baja rake
|
krushgroove posted:Wow, been a while since I've seen Hardcore Racing stuff, I think they moved entirely to stuff for quad bikes, etc. Ah, looks like these are TC4 rings, not GT rings. I think I'll toss a rebuild kit in my cart  .
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2010 05:12
|
|
|
The heli bug has bitten.. And it bit hard! Me and my GIRLFRIEND are getting a (chinese knock-off) T-Rex 450, mine is an EXI 450 SE V2, her's a CopterX CX 450SE V2 with hitec servos (better than mine.. pfft.). We're getting them this Friday and I've ordered a lot of spare parts to make the initial crashes faster to fix. We've been training in Real Flight g4.5 and can do some pretty nice hover.. But I know it's nowhere close to the real deal. P.S.: gently caress tail motor CP in the rear end, they will never, ever ever be reliable. My Walkera 4g3 never stopped having issues with it..
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2010 15:20
|
|
|
Tomorrow we have the first on-road race at Miller Motorsports Park. Should be a fun event. We had the season opener Wednesday at one of the local tracks, I TQ'd and took 1st in the A-main. Gotta keep it up tomorrow. Should be a fun day!
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2010 03:56
|
|
|
^^Congrats. Local outdoor season starts tomorrow! Thank god, I really never got into 12th scale and in fact ditched the last few races. Two cars to campaign this year - Touring Stock and Pro 10.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Touring car is a Losi JRXS-R, which has been in the thread before. Very unique car because all the weight is right along the centerline, very different from almost all other cars. Unfortunately Losi has just dropped it. I should be able to finish the season, but might move to a Schumacher Mi4LP should funds allow. The Pro 10 car is the big story here. I've shown it before, and my attempts to make a damped A-arm front end. I already had John Stranahan's 3-link rear end on it, so I broke down and got his front end kit, too, so the car is now actually a "JS Pro 10." The combination is well sorted and durable. I'm trying an experiment by running the car at 200mm track width with a World GT body, whereas the club is most all 235mm with wedge GTP bodies. I think the more advanced suspension should overcome the aero disadvantage, although I made the wing bigger with side dams and an adjustable Gurney lip. Power is a 10.5 Novak Ballistic with a Hobbywing 120A speedo (Speed Passion GT 2.0) on 2s lipo, at 1200 grams. Body is a Protoform Sophia with a spray bomb paint job; it's an unliscenced Ferrari 599. These cars are really fast, they typically lap quicker than nitro touring cars. Once I get a handle on it I'll switch to a Tekin speedo for insane power.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Considerably more advanced suspension than your typical pan car. The biggest disadvantage with what I have now is that I'm on my own for setup advice. Pancars normally use a sliding kingpin front suspension, where the lower arm is rigid and the upper arm is sprung by a tiny little spring. Damping is achieved by slathering diff oil on the kingpin. The rear end has one shock mounted horizontally and the motor pod hinges up and down. Roll control is via another pair of tiny springs and tubes slathered with diff oil. Stuff like that works just fine on carpet but is not very good on complex surfaces. Excuse the disastrous wiring, kinda don't give a poo poo right now.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Throwaway paint job and massive tires. Not really World GT because they run 13.5 motors on 1s, which is relatively slow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2010 01:08
|
|
|
James Woods posted:Exactly, I have the same units on my DF-03RA and the Cup Racer comes standard with CVDs because HPI is awesome. I've seen guys put upwards of a 8.5-6.5 in these and they've handled it but the drivers couldn't. When I finally get around to really loving around with mine (as soon as I'm done ruining my marriage with my SC-10) I'll be putting a brushless system in probably in the 9-13.5 range along with some metal gears to toughen up the transmission and a slipper clutch, which is a must for any brushless build on these things. So, I'm tempted to buy this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/377997-rare-df-03ms-4wd-buggy-artr-w-virtually-no-run-time.html and scavenge it to make a nice DF-03RA. Will the important parts like the shocks, turnbuckes, and u-joints fit on an 03RA? Tamiya's parts database is loving obnoxious. If they'll work, that would be awesome. I'd get all those parts and an undertray for cheap.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2010 20:18
|
|
|
Had the first race at Miller Motorsports Park on Saturday. It was a ton of fun, but we had some computer problems and it turned out to be a long day. I got sunburned and a bit sore after diving on a runaway 1/8 scale. Luckily we had the red and white barriers, otherwise that car would have caused some havok. Just behind the drivers stand is the kart track. When the karts would go off track they kicked up a ton of dust, and with the dust went the traction. The view looking past the track.This photo was taken pretty early in the day so there wasn't a lot of cars there yet. The porsche club of America was having a get together, there were tons yet somehow I didn't get any pics.  Here is the 2009 body and the 2010 body. I didn't get it done in time to run it, so I ran last years body (Which is still holding up great). Most of our races will be at night this year, I wanted to go with some brighter colors.  Here is some video of the 1st qualifier taken by someone at Miller. http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=383874299141 It was a fun day, and Miller has an awesome facility. Can't wait for future races there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2010 22:38
|
|
|
Awesome shell designs there SGT. Nothing like seeing a well presented shell, instead of the "one colour" usual job.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2010 23:35
|
|
|
SGT. Squeaks posted:It was a fun day, and Miller has an awesome facility. Can't wait for future races there. Is that Miller as in the same place that hosted an ALMS race? I wish there was a proper onroad track somewhere in Phoenix still, especially that raced on Saturdays.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2010 23:38
|
|
|
kuffs posted:So, I'm tempted to buy this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/377997-rare-df-03ms-4wd-buggy-artr-w-virtually-no-run-time.html and scavenge it to make a nice DF-03RA. Will the important parts like the shocks, turnbuckes, and u-joints fit on an 03RA? Tamiya's parts database is loving obnoxious. The only hop ups he had that you'll be able to use are the Heat Sink Bar, Slipper Clutch, Center One Way, and Propeller Cup Joint (about $50-$70 in parts), and a Hobbywing EZ Run Brushless system which can be had for nothing on ebay. I say get the kit as you'll want all the spares along with the manuals and tools and the bodies are really nice. I'd get the Lancer Evo X one as it comes with the overtray standard. No tax and free shipping for $207 http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=TAM58440
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 10:54
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Is that Miller as in the same place that hosted an ALMS race? That's the one! It is an incredible facility. They had the "big track" cut into two, one with super bikes running, the other had the Porsche car club running. There were SO many of them, and all different types. There was even a dude that was totally flogging his Panamera. They just look...awkward. It was an awesome day for racing. I got sunburned pretty bad (the cool breeze made me think I wasn't getting slow roasted). I raced 13.5 Rubber sedan and competition was pretty stiff. I took 3rd out of 9. I beat out fourth place by about 1/10 of a second. We have 5 outdoor races scheduled this summer at Miller in the hopes of funding the purchase of some proper Ozite carpet that will be laid down in one of the buildings for a permanent carpet racing track. I am pretty stoked for that - heated for the winter and everything
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 15:11
|
|
|
James Woods posted:The only hop ups he had that you'll be able to use are the Heat Sink Bar, Slipper Clutch, Center One Way, and Propeller Cup Joint (about $50-$70 in parts), and a Hobbywing EZ Run Brushless system which can be had for nothing on ebay. I say get the kit as you'll want all the spares along with the manuals and tools and the bodies are really nice. I'd get the Lancer Evo X one as it comes with the overtray standard. No tax and free shipping for $207 http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=TAM58440 Yeah, I knew the electronics were throwaway. I didn't realize that version of the DF-03RA came with an undertray. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 15:20
|
|
|
OK, I just give up nowquote:
I'd say that this is 'jumping the shark', but 'jumping the shark' jumped the shark many sharks agoshark shark sharksharksharksharkshark
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 16:20
|
|
|
Yeah, I don't even get transmitter wraps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 16:38
|
|
|
James Woods posted:The only hop ups he had that you'll be able to use are the Heat Sink Bar, Slipper Clutch, Center One Way, and Propeller Cup Joint (about $50-$70 in parts), and a Hobbywing EZ Run Brushless system which can be had for nothing on ebay. I say get the kit as you'll want all the spares along with the manuals and tools and the bodies are really nice. I'd get the Lancer Evo X one as it comes with the overtray standard. No tax and free shipping for $207 http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=TAM58440 It looks like all the TT-01 upgrades you posted will work with the DF-03RA, is that right? http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-yeah-racing-steelalum-universal-shaft-tamiya-tt01e-tt015v2rd-p-25584.html http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-3racing-alum-solid-axle-tt0125lb-p-25246.html https://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-55mm-touring-4pcs-dp1002ti-p-25326.html How's the quality on those parts? They seem like they might be kind of cheap knockoffs.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 16:47
|
|
|
compressioncut posted:
Stranahan himself is selling one of his cars http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/390226-js-pro-10-wide-pan-car-kit-used-crc-gen-x-10-a.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 17:13
|
|
|
kuffs posted:Yeah, I don't even get transmitter wraps. Those I get actually, but after seeing too many racers try to copy Hara/Moore/Rheinard/etc it has gotten a little old. Besides, I'd have to do my own design rather than a 'stock' one...of course.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 18:50
|
|
|
kuffs posted:It looks like all the TT-01 upgrades you posted will work with the DF-03RA, is that right? The dampers are a for sure fit, any touring car damper of at least 50mm should work. The CVDs should also work as the unis from the DF03-RA are the same as the TT01. I don't think the diff however will work. I use this and it greatly improved the handling of the car. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df03-tamiya-front-oneway-unit-53953-p-22575.html?cPath=595_744_1292 Yeah Racing and 3Racing are both pretty much the same quality wise (I've heard they're actually from the same factory) and despite others complaints I've never had a problem with any of the many parts I've gotten from either company. James Woods fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 23, 2010 |
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 20:59
|
|
|
I think you meant to link something besides the CV joints?
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
I'm trying to figure out if the 'inner chassis protector' is just a Dark Impact body. I'd much rather have the Monte Carlo Impreza than the Evo X.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 22:19
|
|
|
Annnnd the answer is here http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tamiya-92203-df03ra-mitsubishi-lancer-p-29379.htmlquote:Dark Impact body included as chassis cover.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2010 22:24
|
|
|
kuffs posted:Stranahan himself is selling one of his cars http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/390226-js-pro-10-wide-pan-car-kit-used-crc-gen-x-10-a.html Yeah, that's his development car. It's a really good deal if you're looking for something like it. Even with low-turn motors this particular suspension configuration has tons of on-power grip. The way the panhard is set up is actually my refinement, which is kind of cool. My 200mm setup didn't work that well, it had too much grip which led to some spectacular grip rolls - tumbling up through the stratosphere as I dove into the sweeper at near 50mph... I could get it to work if I trued the tires way down to take away traction, but that would brutalize the tire budget. I did put up some competitive lap times in practice before the grip came in. I was also able to really put down the power well, whereas most guys have really nervous throttle fingers with conventional pan suspensions, even with fairly mild 10.5 motors. Touring went better, 4th in the A-main even though the car would not turn in for poo poo. I'm not sure what was wrong, virtually nothing I did would help, but I eventually was able to drive around it by coasting in and hammering the throttle to kick the back end out a bit. It had tons and tons of power, the Tekin speedos are just ridiculous.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2010 00:01
|
|
|
protip: A large selection of rcmart's stuff is on ebay. Where they won't charge you 3% to use paypal, shipping is cheaper, and you'll have a better complaint channel if things go sour. I really did just price the items on their normal web store, then price them on their ebay store. $20 saved on ebay.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2010 17:40
|
|
|
James Woods posted:These will be a tight fit but if their measurements are correct they'll work. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9514&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_30C_Lipo_Pack I already have some of the 5.0's. Is the battery box wide enough to fit that thing? Keep in mind that the wire isn't all that flexible. I had to mod the battery tray on my SC10 to make those things fit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2010 19:50
|
|
|
kuffs posted:protip: A large selection of rcmart's stuff is on ebay. Where they won't charge you 3% to use paypal, shipping is cheaper, and you'll have a better complaint channel if things go sour. Also, if it's on eBay and is Buy It Now, use Bing Cashback to get 8% back.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2010 21:39
|
|
|
So my brother in law has recently acquired a Traxxas Slash (the waterproof one), and the RC bug has kinda bitten me again. I have an opportunity to buy a used Traxxas Stampede XL-5 with a charger and two 2400MAH batteries for $100. It also has the newer VXL idler gear and planetary diff set. Is this a remotely good deal? I dont want to plop down the cash to get into a new Slash or something like that, not yet anyway. I figure for $100 if I'm not happy I can resell it for that amount at least. EDIT: To explain further, I really just want it for bashing around the yard, local skate park, and empty parking lots. I have no intentions of actually racing it. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Apr 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2010 14:39
|
|
|
Sounds like a good deal, especially for playing around does it have a radio? If so definitely go for it, I'd say.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2010 15:34
|
|
|
Sounds like a pretty good deal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2010 15:41
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Sounds like a good deal, especially for playing around Yep, transmitter included. Basically everything that came in the original box, plus a charger, two batteries, "some tools" and "some spare parts", plus the VXL parts that he added. Sweet, I'll hopefully be picking it up today.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2010 16:01
|
|
|
Yeah, that's a great deal then. Perfect for getting back into the hobby .
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2010 16:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 13:01 |
|
|
kuffs posted:I think you meant to link something besides the CV joints? Yea my bad. I've edited the post to link to this; http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df03-tamiya-front-oneway-unit-53953-p-22575.html?cPath=595_744_1292 kuffs posted:I'm trying to figure out if the 'inner chassis protector' is just a Dark Impact body. I'd much rather have the Monte Carlo Impreza than the Evo X. kuffs posted:Annnnd the answer is here http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tamiya-92203-df03ra-mitsubishi-lancer-p-29379.html Thats why I was trying to steer you towards the Evo X. The Dark Impact bodies are actually getting kinda hard to find these days and makes me wish I'd opted differently when I bought mine. kuffs posted:I already have some of the 5.0's. Is the battery box wide enough to fit that thing? Keep in mind that the wire isn't all that flexible. I had to mod the battery tray on my SC10 to make those things fit. I'm not sure what you're refeering to by "5.0" but the batteries I posted should fit if their measurements are accurate. There are actually several holes at the fore and end of the inner part of the battery tray to accommodate the wires.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2010 01:34
|
|