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I pretty much only use p3 stuff now. They're the greatest. (Though I still love the citadel foundations and washes, and their old inks.)
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Apr 19, 2010 21:05
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When I got back into painting I didn't buy the VGC set because I didn't know how many I would use. I then ended up with probably 70%+ of their colours. Same with Citadel. Should I just go ahead and buy the P3 set ? Would those of you with experience of the three different ranges say it was worth it.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:07
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GW for metallics, washes, foundations, and a few colors like enchanted blue, blazing orange, etc P3 for everything else  e: rapey: dont buy the metallics, their inks are just like old GW inks, so keep that in mind too
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Apr 19, 2010 21:08
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PaintVagrant posted:GW for metallics, washes, foundations, and a few colors like enchanted blue, blazing orange, etc Not even Brass balls? its a great metallic colour!. The golds and white metals are rubbish but that Brass Balls is really good in my opinion. The armour wash tends to be very dark and thick so I water it down heavily, but I prefer Badab anyway, same with the flesh wash. The turquiose ink is great though and the Velejo Blue ink over Mordian blue makes the Perfect Crimson fist colour. The P3 ranges strengths are definately its normal everyday colours. Together with citadel they make an amazing selection of hues, options and colour variety. I dont know if anybody has noticed but there is now a second set of FW pigments out too, I have the first set but am gonna skip this second set as im more of a fan of Mig products now. Sorry to waffle so much I just dont have anybody to talk to about paints, models or being hammy so Im enjoying being in a constructive atmosphere with some great help around me.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:20
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Thanks PV, I'll bear that in mind.Teadrinker posted:Sorry to waffle so much I just dont have anybody to talk to about paints, models or being hammy so Im enjoying being in a constructive atmosphere with some great help around me. That's what this thread's for. Also, interesting to hear that FW powders aren't Mig, I'd just assumed they were repackages given that the painters who seemed to be behind them used Mig.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:37
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someone recommend me a baller rust pigment, preferably with pics of it used, tia
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Apr 19, 2010 21:40
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:That's what this thread's for. its very possible, im no expert by any means. I just found I got better results with Mig powders but it could easily be me imagining it or the fact that im mor experienced than when I used the FW ones. So yeah it could be me being totally stupid and just not knowing.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:41
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PaintVagrant posted:someone recommend me a baller rust pigment, preferably with pics of it used, tia I'm not especially good with the pigments, and these are rather basic applications but what the hell. All from Mig. On this one I used Standard Rust, with the lightest areas being Light Rust. The gun and exhaust were Black Smoke.  When you apply fixer (shake the bottle, for the love of god shake the bottle or it will take 7-10 days to set) it will darken the colour down, so you may want to use more of the light colour than you initially think. As I recall, with this Rhino I fogot about the darkening effect and used more Old Rust instead of Standard  And for shiggles, here's my other pigmented Rhino. 
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Apr 19, 2010 21:56
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PaintVagrant posted:someone recommend me a baller rust pigment, preferably with pics of it used, tia http://www.migproductions.com/minisite/download/download.htm http://www.migproductions.com/minisite/pigment/pigment.htm take a look at those as they have some good pics up of Mig stuff in action
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Apr 19, 2010 22:12
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Vibrating water cleaner thingy trip report. Left a metal model (fully painted) and a couple of plastic hulls that had been previously stripped, but still had undercoat staining on, in Tesco Value cleaner over night. Put them into the ultrasonic bath for approximately an hour (broken up into 8 minute chunks) and the results are very promising. The metal warlock is now pretty much as clean and shiny as a brand new model. No traces of crap in the nooks and crannies, no scratch damage from scraping the paint away. And no back ache from scrubbing either. The plastic parts didn't do quite so well, which isn't surprising as having already been stripped they were down to smooth super stubborn undercoat, but still, that has started to slowly come away in places. I think that putting one large hull in at a time, and removing the plastic tray from the tub would make it work better (the more that's in there the less effective it becomes). Next time I'll go back to Fairy Power Spray for the stripping as that works better on GW/VGC than the Tesco stuff, or so it seems. I'll aslo change the water much more frequently. Even a small amount of gunk from the models, or if the water has been through a few cycles, will reducee the cleaning power. All in all, I think it's a success. Definately more pleasent than scrubbing. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 19, 2010 |
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Apr 19, 2010 23:08
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That's pretty cool, thanks for the update. How big is the cleaner box thingy? What is the largest miniature you think you would be able to get in there? I think that my next project (in order to save cash) will be repainting my Eldar, some of which are already repaints over older paint jobs. So I've been worried about getting them clean to do it properly this time. It would be neat to have a machine that would reliably get them clean, and possibly not even be that much more expensive than buying gallons of simple green to wash over thousands of space elves. Where did you get the cleaner?
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Apr 19, 2010 23:23
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000YCGWKQ/ref=oss_product The dimensions are 264 x 164 x 80mm which was easily enough to fit the upper hulls of a Falcon, a Land Speeder, and the Warlock all at once. We went for the biggest one because we want it for degreasing FW stuff like the Brass Scorpion. You can get them smaller. Oh, the Warlock seemed to strip better when he was laying horizontally as opposed to standing upright.
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Apr 19, 2010 23:29
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Thanks for the info duders. Amerigoons, where do you order your Mig pigments?
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Apr 19, 2010 23:37
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Apr 19, 2010 23:43
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Jesus christ, I just primed 5 rhinos, a vindicator, a land raider, a predator and 30 grey hunters with ONE CAN OF RUSTOLEUM. AND IT STILL HAS SOME LEFT. I'm about to airbrush fenris grey onto all that plus a total of 50 grey hunters. the airbrush is the best thing I've bought in this hobby since beer while painting.
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Apr 19, 2010 23:57
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airbrush basecoats 
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Apr 20, 2010 00:00
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That post gave me serious wood, Im getting my rig sometime this week    
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Apr 20, 2010 00:01
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Airbrush is best brush.
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Apr 20, 2010 00:06
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PaintVagrant posted:That post gave me serious wood, Im getting my rig sometime this week I did the all the vehicles last night and I still have half a pot of fenris left. poo poo went on so smooth, and GW paints dry so fast that by the time I'm done with the last tank, the first coat is dry on the first one I did.
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Apr 20, 2010 00:17
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airbrush porn for PV itt: Across two sessions, I basecoated 1 land raider 2 vindicators 1 predator 3 droppods 20 terminators 25 varied power armor marines 2 dreadnoughts Actual time spent painting was maybe 30-40 minutes? Spent more time cleaning it up or clearing clogs from the lovely brush. This was snot green, which is almost as bad as yellows in terms of coverage. (PV knows all about snot green over black primer, lol.)
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Apr 20, 2010 00:22
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Yeah holy poo poo, gently caress snot green. It looks opaque as hell, then you use it and you realize its a horrible joke
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Apr 20, 2010 00:24
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Also, airbrush boners itt, in my pants
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Apr 20, 2010 00:24
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On the pigments: 1. Whatever you do, get some of the Fixer as well brush it thinly onto the pigments and they won't rub of easily. 2. The change appearance a lot if you varnish over them, test that out beforehand or apply them after the varnish and fixate them with fixer. 3. The marine i posted earlier was done with sponge dabbing and pigments
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Apr 20, 2010 01:23
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PaintVagrant posted:Thanks for the info duders. Amerigoons, where do you order your Mig pigments? I ordered a couple pigment sets from http://migproductions-usa.com/ on Friday morning and they showed up at my door on Monday. I haven't tried them yet, but their delivery speed is certainly impressive. Bistromatic posted:On the pigments: Unfortunately, MIG is currently out of stock on their fixer. http://migproductions-usa.com/index.php/pigments/related-products/pigment-fixer.html What would be a good alternative to use?
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Apr 20, 2010 05:20
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Vibrating water cleaner thingy trip report. Left a metal model (fully painted) and a couple of plastic hulls that had been previously stripped, but still had undercoat staining on, in Tesco Value cleaner over night. Put them into the ultrasonic bath for approximately an hour (broken up into 8 minute chunks) and the results are very promising. Yeah buddy!  crime fighting hog posted:Jesus christ, I just primed 5 rhinos, a vindicator, a land raider, a predator and 30 grey hunters with ONE CAN OF RUSTOLEUM. AND IT STILL HAS SOME LEFT. Best. poo poo. Ever.
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Apr 20, 2010 05:55
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On the subject of paints, I think I get the most use out of VGC paints, P3 paints at the mo seem solely used for painting bases but that might be just because I only picked up a couple of sets back when they came out and never bothered expanding what I've got. I don't touch my GW paints any more barring metallics, foundations and washes. Whilst we're on the subject of trying new poo poo out, I want to try some weathering powders but not really sure what to pick up. Is there an alternative to 'fixer'? I've heard of people using turpentine as a fixer in the past, if that's the case, can I get away with turpentine substitute? Love that smell So UK goons, recommend me some cheap weathering powder! or am I going to have more fun picking up a bunch of pastels and making my own? 
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Apr 20, 2010 09:48
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah holy poo poo, gently caress snot green. It looks opaque as hell, then you use it and you realize its a horrible joke Oh NOW i read this, was paiting up a spellsinger last night, primed in black because i'm saving all my white primer from my HE army. Put some snot green on my pallet, a touch of bleached bone to lighten it up a bit, water it down a touch and one coat, two coats, 3 coats, gently caress this another drop of snot green in the mix to thicken it up, 4 coats, shiiiiit, wet the brush and straight to the pot, i do a line and i can still see black through it. After about 6 or 7 coats i decided enough was enough, added some dark angels green to the mix another coat and a thrakka wash im calling it good. Then repeat with some flesh tones.... seriously a grey primer that goes on like black but can be covered as well as white would be nice.
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Apr 20, 2010 10:35
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So Im not sure how many of you guys paint non-nerd related things, but most good artists colors (oil/acrylic/whatever) are marked with a little icon. circle filled with black: the paint is opaque circle half filled w black: the paint is semi-transparent, so it covers OK but not great circle, empty: the paint is transparent and wont cover poo poo. But yeah, so I was thinking that it would be super helpful to a lot of nerds for me to do 1 sentence reviews of paints, including things like their opacity and intensity. Those are hard things to judge until you actually purchase the paint. It might take me a while to do, but its something I can work on here and there
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Apr 20, 2010 14:35
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I think it's high time for me to stop carrying my miniatures in a shoebox. They're not painted yet, but two friends have told me that they hate using the foam with the holes for your troops because it chips the paint. I'm pretty sure they just aren't sealing the minis, but they swear they are.
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Apr 20, 2010 15:27
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I have no earthly idea how you'd chip paint in a pluck foam or battlefoam tray, to be perfectly honest. I've never had a problem transporting stuff in weird pluck foam recesses so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Apr 20, 2010 15:29
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Pluck foam can be an issue if you don't seal your miniatures, sure, but I never sealed mine and used a pluck-foam case for years without wearing paint off everything. The only issue that I have with pluck foam is that its more delicate than cut foam, if you try to really optimize the amount of space you end up with very wobbly dividers that can come out pretty easily - I prefer the pre-cut gaps like GW does for this reason, but those are also frustrating because they seem to be sized for the miniatures of the mid-90s; many newer figures are just bigger and don't quite fit into the gaps. Use magnets, they are magical and cool and if you are playing some ancient guy you can short his pacemaker and kill him!
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Apr 20, 2010 15:39
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Ashcans posted:Use magnets, they are magical and cool and if you are playing some ancient guy you can short his pacemaker and kill him! I can totally see some 'ham doing this at 'ard boyz for a win my default.
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Apr 20, 2010 15:49
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Here's my first attempt at trying NMM, on a Sanguinary guard. I was thinking of using the squad to practice on so by the time I get to the Sanguinor model I wont be complete rubbish, but with the amount of effort this one model took do you guys think I should just give up and go back to normal metals for them or to persevere with it? As always any help would be appreciated. Click here for the full 1000x1279 image. also I managed to unearth some RTB01 marines and some rogue trader metal marines, do you reckon I should: A) Cannibalise them for beakies and power fists for conversions. or B) Paint them up as death company. What's better to represent batshit crazy marines than a bunch which have been sitting up in the attic for a good 15 years.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.
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Apr 20, 2010 15:58
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That came out really nice, my only suggestion is to take the NMM up one more step, with a really super skinny near-white highlight on the edges that are hit by light.
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Apr 20, 2010 16:00
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PaintVagrant posted:That came out really nice, my only suggestion is to take the NMM up one more step, with a really super skinny near-white highlight on the edges that are hit by light. Thanks a lot. Do you mean something like menoth white highlights rather than skull white?
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Apr 20, 2010 16:08
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Ashcans posted:Pluck foam can be an issue if you don't seal your miniatures, sure, but I never sealed mine and used a pluck-foam case for years without wearing paint off everything. The only issue that I have with pluck foam is that its more delicate than cut foam, if you try to really optimize the amount of space you end up with very wobbly dividers that can come out pretty easily - I prefer the pre-cut gaps like GW does for this reason, but those are also frustrating because they seem to be sized for the miniatures of the mid-90s; many newer figures are just bigger and don't quite fit into the gaps. Magnets are pretty cool.  What kind would you suggest? And what would I carry them in/on? A plank of sheet metal?
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Apr 20, 2010 16:13
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A few people have suggested steel toolboxes in the past.
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Apr 20, 2010 16:19
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Owithey posted:Thanks a lot. Do you mean something like menoth white highlights rather than skull white? Thats what I would use, probably. If you look at darren lathams or other dudes NMM, it always ends with a really bright edge highlight
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Apr 20, 2010 16:20
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:What kind would you suggest? And what would I carry them in/on? A plank of sheet metal? I bought mine from KJMagnetics. For large-ish models like Cavalry, Bikes, or metal figures, I would recommend the 6mm x 1.5mm magnets - these hold my Saurus Cavalry in place with no problems, as well as keep my Slann in his chair. For larger, heavier figures you might want to use two on the base. For smaller stuff, like plastic infantry, I use 3mm x 1.5mm. These will hold skinks and Saurus in place, as long as you set them so they will be flush to the metal/plate; if you set them up into the base the grab isn't really strong enough for full-size figures. My carrying case is a tool box I got from Lowe's. It looks a little like this in double - imagine two of those, hinged at the bottom so they fold up around a central set of drawers. I used some construction adhesive to fix metal plates into the case where I wanted them. I can carry basically my entire Lizardmen force in it, with some space left for dice, templates, notecards, whatever. I like the compartment models because that way if a magnet does fail, the damage will be restricted to that section.
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Apr 20, 2010 16:34
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No Pun Intended posted:Good news: I have a few archer sprues floating around Thanks for the offer, but I think I just managed to find someone with a few bitz to spare a bit closer. One of those "friend of a friend of a friend" deals. Here's a completely unrelated pic of something rather cool: 
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Apr 20, 2010 18:33
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