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I have a 2008 Rabbit 5-speed. I've noticed when I open the door after the car's been off, I hear a very faint motor whirring for about a second. It's done it since the car was new, so I presume it's normal - I'm just curious what it is. Any idea?
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May 3, 2010 19:34
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Hey cool, thanks for doing this thread  I have a question. I have a 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro, with an engine that isn't so healthy. What 5 cylinder Audi's are potential donor cars? Googling has brought me nothing but confusion. Thanks!
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May 3, 2010 19:39
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minivanmegafun posted:I have a 2008 Rabbit 5-speed. I've noticed when I open the door after the car's been off, I hear a very faint motor whirring for about a second. It's done it since the car was new, so I presume it's normal - I'm just curious what it is. Any idea? Its the fuel pump. elzergone posted:Hey cool, thanks for doing this thread That car isn't worth an engine replacement so you should just give me the car for proper disposal. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 19:46
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I have a 2007 Audi A3 2.0T with just about 17000 miles on it. I bought it used but so far it seems to be running rather nicely. Question I have is what should I be doing in terms of preventative maintenance and keeping the engine in optimal condition? I changed the oil at around 15000 miles and had the dealership do some warranty work on the car, but that's about it. Also, if anyone knows of a good VW/Audi mechanic in the Central Florida/Orlando area I'm all ears.
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May 3, 2010 20:47
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Got a 2006 GLI and love it. Few questions about it. How much would it be to take it in for routine maintenance at VW, next scheduled one is at 70k and just looking at cost. Since it is not under warranty I would assume it will be more. Also there is just one small part that was missing from it. At the top of the center console below the hazard button are the two AC ducts, one is missing the tab that allows you to move it up/down, left and right. Is there a place to get a new one of those, or will replacing the entire upper part of the console be my only option? Other then that everything is great.
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May 3, 2010 21:52
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The front passenger power window has stopped working on my 98 Jetta TDI. When you press the up/down button you can hear a faint click from the door; one click when you press the button and one click when you release it, and the lights dim slightly if the engine is off. Any chance you can diagnose it just based on that?
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May 3, 2010 22:25
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ModernDayDiogenes posted:http://www.evolutionimport.com/Thor_Skid_Plate_For_B5_B5_5_Passat_p/a-00003-005.htm As far as I know, the cam adjuster solenoid can't be replaced on it's own - you need the whole assembly. There may be another option, but at the dealership level we'd just quote the assembly part price. Try over on VWVortex - if there's a way to just do the solenoid, someone over there will know. According to my parts list the solenoid can't be ordered on it's own but the aftermarket sometimes has work-arounds for that type of thing. If you've got the drain plug I'm thinking of, then yes, it's a... I want to say 18mm tamperproof triplesquare. I'm pretty sure you can buy it over the counter at a VW parts department. If not, try Hazet - they manufacture a lot of Euro-import specialty tools and your local Snap-On dealer might be able to get it for you.
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May 3, 2010 23:15
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Autism Sundae posted:Is there a way to see which VW dealerships are good and which are not in a given area? I've been trying to get some hatch rattle issues fixed for a while now and apparently a local dealership that I've been to broke some plastic trim piece in the trunk (which was pointed out to me by another dealership). It's so hard to say. Once again I'd say ask around on VWVortex - there'll be members that are local to you that can point you to a dealership.
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May 3, 2010 23:18
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DONT DO IT posted:I've got a question for you... For whatever reason, my 2000 Audi S4 has been running rich for the past 2 years. It never warms up despite having the thermostat changed (twice!). That would explain why it runs rich.. However, none of the local shops (or even the Audi dealership) have been able to diagnose the root problem. The biggest issue is it starts like rear end whether it is warm or not. As the battery inevitably dies, it just gets harder and harder. But just for fun, if I use ethanol fuel it starts right up. Too bad the ethanol fuel worsens my already terrible fuel mileage and idles like poo poo. It's not water in the tank, as after two bottles of Heet you'd expect some sort of change. It doesn't seem to be carbon buildup either, as I used the three bottles of a $25 dollar per bottle treatment (forgot the brand) as recommended by the last mechanic that worked on it. Any ideas? OK, this is a little tougher to diagnose. First, we need to figure out why it never warms up. Do you have any faults or a MIL light on? Also, has your S4 been in for the ignition coil recall yet? That it idles poorly is pretty strange - does it idle better when you've got a tank full of ethanol?
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May 3, 2010 23:26
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Neon Machete posted:Does putting universal green coolant in your 2.7t really damage the engine that badly? Cause I bought one pre-owned and the "G12 ONLY" was rubbed off the expansion tank...now my coolant system is leaking every which place and starts steaming up after five minutes of driving. Did the green stuff eat through all my hoses or what? Glycol-based coolants like good ol neon green antifreeze tend to damage coolant systems that are made for G12/pink - they really beat up the seals in particular so it's not a terrible surprise that you've got leaks. At this point you're going to have to get the system flushed and re-filled with proper G12 and see what happens (I'm guessing your leaks will continue). After that, you'll have to find and repair the leaks one at a time until the system seals properly. Every now and again we get a car in that's been to a shop that didn't know any better and it's full of green antifreeze and I feel bad for the customer every time. Odds are, they got upsold to a coolant flush at some lube shop and than they show up on the hook at my shop.
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May 3, 2010 23:33
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The cat has gone on my 2004 Golf 1.6 FSI, and as im rather short on the money at the moment, so it may have to wait a while before its replaced. Am I doing any more long term damage if im still driving it daily? It doesn't seem to affect performance or fuel usage too much, its just rather noisy.
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May 3, 2010 23:46
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my1999gsr posted:OK, this is a little tougher to diagnose. First, we need to figure out why it never warms up. Do you have any faults or a MIL light on? Also, has your S4 been in for the ignition coil recall yet? That it idles poorly is pretty strange - does it idle better when you've got a tank full of ethanol? Maybe it's the coolant temp sensor? Just a wild guess.
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May 3, 2010 23:54
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SpeedFreek posted:Repaired? they charged me $50 for a can of brakleen and a blast of compressed air. The leak was still there buy since they cleaned it it wasn't an issue to them, its leaked since I got it with 20k on it. By "repaired" I mean that's what the paperwork says when a work order is closed. Believe me, Audi/VW has been VERY good about replacing whole engines under goodwill when they're ruined due to oil sludge as long as the customer has records of all oil changes being done on time and using sythetic oil (and even a few that used non-syth oil too). At last count I've done 10 1.8T's under goodwill for sludge - Audi/VW picked up the whole tab. There's not much I can tell you about Climatronic/Climatic value blocks without a car and a scantool. If there's one in particular you're looking for, let me know and I'll see what I can do. The cooling fans are super easy - a co-worker just did a pair on a A5-style (2.0t-equipped) GTI today actually. I'd say an hour or so but we take them out through the bottom of the car so if you can't raise it high enough then I'm not sure how long it'll take. I think the speakers in your car are still riveted to the inner door panel so you'll be drilling them out to pull the speakers. On the A5-style GTI/Rabbit/Golf you'll need to remove the door skin to replace the harness. You may be able to do it without removing the door skin by using the hole the speaker was in to get to the harness but I've always found it easier to just pull the skin off. Either way, if you've never done it before, both the inner door panel and the outer skin have a few quirks about their removal that it'll help to know before you start. If you'd like some details about them, let me know and I'll give you some tips on whatever method you choose. As to how long it'll take, again, it depends on how familiar you are with the inner workings of the doors. If you've had them apart in any way it'll dramatically shorten the time, if not, figure 3-5 hours depending on method.
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May 3, 2010 23:54
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Triikan - as Pipkin said, the water on your driver's side floor is from that clogged drain under the battery - the design is just crap. If you want to see for yourself, get a flashlight, turn the wheels all the way to the right and shine your light into the passenger's side wheel-well where the steering rack/tie rod is. You should be able to see a small, black rubber funnel-shaped thing pointing down right above the steering rack. What happens is, some debris clogs up the drains (there's 2 under the battery that are identical), the lower windshield cowl (where the battery sits) fills up with water so when you accelerate, the water that has accumulated slops around and follows the wiring conduit that's underneath your car's E-box (that's the plastic box that's under your hood on the driver's side right where the windshield and fender join) and enters the cabin. There was a HUGE recall in Canada about it called the.. R5 I think, where that stupid funnel/drain is totally removed and the sunroof drain tubes (the little black rubber tubes that you can see when you open the front doors all the way in the hinge-area) are clipped so they allow larger bits of debris to drain out and not block the flow. I'm not sure what you're looking for in a diagram but you'll want to look closely at the wiring to the left of your clutch pedal - that's the area where the water has been getting in so look for corrosion. The seal under the E-box is usually adequate for splashes of water but it can't handle submersion - maybe introduce a little water near the E-box and see if it's getting into the cabin in the area around the clutch pedal.
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May 4, 2010 00:13
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What does your place charge for a timing chain job on a '01 VR6? I'm almost at 90k miles on mine and would like to change at around 100k. I can do it myself but I may not have the time to do so as I know it'll take me at least 2 days due to never doing it before. (just trying to get some cost estimates vs a DIY job)
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May 4, 2010 00:19
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If I take my GTI for an oil change but not to a dealership (I want to do one at 5K before the scheduled 10K), is that going to cause any issues with warranty? I'm assuming it won't and I'm taking it to a certified VW/Audi shop and not to Jiffy Lube, but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask.
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May 4, 2010 00:19
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SwashedBuckles posted:I have a couple of questions on my 2010 S4. Is carbon buildup also known to be a problem on the 3.0TFSI? Also, the shifts on the S-Tronic transmission seem to be more rough than when I first got the car (~2k miles right now); what could be causing this? I haven't heard anything about the supercharged 3L yet - we've got 2 on the road from my dealership but I've got no TSBs for it yet so that's a good sign. What are your driving habits like? The TCM adapts to your driving style so if it sees you driving in a "sporty" manner it tries to match it's shifts to that. If you find the shifting too harsh then make an appointment at your dealership for a test-drive with a technician and go from there. With the low mileage you've got on your S4 there's no reason for it to behave in a way you're not happy with so that's the next step I'd take.
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May 4, 2010 00:26
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minivanmegafun posted:I have a 2008 Rabbit 5-speed. I've noticed when I open the door after the car's been off, I hear a very faint motor whirring for about a second. It's done it since the car was new, so I presume it's normal - I'm just curious what it is. Any idea? And yes, your ECM uses the door latch opening as a signal to prime the fuel pump - that's the noise you're hearing.
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May 4, 2010 00:27
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elzergone posted:Hey cool, thanks for doing this thread Ahhh! A Quattro Coupe owner - I knew I'd see a question from one of you guys sooner or later! I wish I could help you but we just don't do engines on cars as old as yours so it's difficult to say what other cars have engines that would work in your Coupe. Try finding a forum for Coupe owners - they might have some insight on it. I wonder if there's a kit to sneak a 2.7 biturbo into that chassis...
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May 4, 2010 00:32
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tronik posted:I have a 2007 Audi A3 2.0T with just about 17000 miles on it. I bought it used but so far it seems to be running rather nicely. Question I have is what should I be doing in terms of preventative maintenance and keeping the engine in optimal condition? I changed the oil at around 15000 miles and had the dealership do some warranty work on the car, but that's about it. I'm not a big fan of the 15,000 mile oil change interval - our dealership recommends every 8000 even with synthetic oil. Other than that, just stick to the service plan in your manual and enjoy your A3 - I like it more than the GTI.
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May 4, 2010 00:36
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my1999gsr posted:Stupid Funnel There was a leaf in it. Jesus christ. Should I just throw this piece away, then? What is it supposed to do? Was it connected to any sort of tubing?
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May 4, 2010 00:44
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Alighieri posted:Got a 2006 GLI and love it. Few questions about it. How much would it be to take it in for routine maintenance at VW, next scheduled one is at 70k and just looking at cost. Since it is not under warranty I would assume it will be more. Also there is just one small part that was missing from it. At the top of the center console below the hazard button are the two AC ducts, one is missing the tab that allows you to move it up/down, left and right. Is there a place to get a new one of those, or will replacing the entire upper part of the console be my only option? Other then that everything is great. Sorry - I can't tell you a price for your maintenances - they're dealer-dependant and I rarely see the bill for them. Looking in my repair manual it tells me that the whole assembly for your center vents must be replaced if a vent is broken BUT my manuals don't always show me if parts are available on their own - the vent may be plastic-welded to the cover and replaceable on it's own. Call up your local dealership's parts counter and ask them - they should be more than happy to quote you a price for the vent alone if it's available.
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May 4, 2010 00:45
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wav3form posted:What does your place charge for a timing chain job on a '01 VR6? I'm almost at 90k miles on mine and would like to change at around 100k. It looks like we charge 6.5 hours plus parts for the VR6 but that's purely a book time estimate - we don't have enough VR6's on the road for any of us to be fast at replacing the chain on them. Figure 7 hours at $89/hr plus parts plus a little more time if there's seized bolts or any other unforseen problems. Do you have a particular reason for changing the chain? Unless it's acting up they're not a part we replace often or ever.
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May 4, 2010 00:53
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Opensourcepirate posted:The front passenger power window has stopped working on my 98 Jetta TDI. When you press the up/down button you can hear a faint click from the door; one click when you press the button and one click when you release it, and the lights dim slightly if the engine is off. I can somewhat diagnose this. It sounds like your window regulator assembly (which is a system of pulleys and cables) is in the middle of destroying itself. The only way to be sure is to take the inner door trim panel and inner door panel off and have a look at the mechanism to see what's going on. I've done this countless times for broken window clips and replacing door latches so that's the first step I take when the door motor isn't working as it should. If you'd like some instructions on how to do that I can help you - it's not hard just time-consuming the first time you do it.
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May 4, 2010 00:58
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my1999gsr posted:It looks like we charge 6.5 hours plus parts for the VR6 but that's purely a book time estimate - we don't have enough VR6's on the road for any of us to be fast at replacing the chain on them. Figure 7 hours at $89/hr plus parts plus a little more time if there's seized bolts or any other unforseen problems. Do you have a particular reason for changing the chain? Unless it's acting up they're not a part we replace often or ever. It'd purely be a preventative measure. Engine runs like a top and is quiet (other than the normal VR6 noises). I'm typically paranoid about any car I own and I do a lot of preventative maintenance when possible. It's not the chains I'm worried about, it's the chain guides. I probably won't bother with them until I hear some rattling due to broken guides. Your price isn't bad, I've seen unofficial quotes of over 2 grand with parts.
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May 4, 2010 00:59
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NWO posted:The cat has gone on my 2004 Golf 1.6 FSI, and as im rather short on the money at the moment, so it may have to wait a while before its replaced. Am I doing any more long term damage if im still driving it daily? It doesn't seem to affect performance or fuel usage too much, its just rather noisy. If the cat has failed then driving around until you get it replaced isn't hurting anything but the environment. I can't access any of the Euro-spec engine (which yours is) warranty stuff to see, but have you checked with your local dealership to see if there's any extended coverage for your car's emissions equipment? There were several cars here in North America that VW extended the cat warranty on so it might be worth looking into if you haven't already.
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May 4, 2010 01:03
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Triikan posted:There was a leaf in it. Jesus christ. Should I just throw this piece away, then? What is it supposed to do? Was it connected to any sort of tubing? I made a coathanger into a long, pointed hook to pull the funnel out from the wheel well so removing the battery isn't necessary. Pull that sucker out - it's not supposed to be connected to anything and it only causes trouble.
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May 4, 2010 01:06
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wav3form posted:Maybe it's the coolant temp sensor? Just a wild guess. Very possible but I'd like to see the car after a road test to check the values out of the coolant sensor versus the actual coolant temp to confirm the ECT is going bad. We've done a pile of ECTs on every other VW/Audi product so it wouldn't be a surprise although they usually throw a code for short to B+ or something and turn on the MIL.
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May 4, 2010 01:10
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wav3form posted:It'd purely be a preventative measure. Engine runs like a top and is quiet (other than the normal VR6 noises). I'm typically paranoid about any car I own and I do a lot of preventative maintenance when possible. Remember, I'm only quoting from my VW "suggested repair times" catalogue and I've never personally done one (unless you count the VR6 engine in the Touaregs) so my time quote isn't gosphel although $2000 seems a little steep even with parts. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:18 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 01:13
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Autism Sundae posted:If I take my GTI for an oil change but not to a dealership (I want to do one at 5K before the scheduled 10K), is that going to cause any issues with warranty? I'm assuming it won't and I'm taking it to a certified VW/Audi shop and not to Jiffy Lube, but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask. You are absolutely allowed to get your oil changed anywhere you like as long as you keep your records of when you had it done. Seriously, keep your records - VW warranty is generally very good but if you leave the door open they will squash your warranty claim in a heartbeat if you can't back up your service history.
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May 4, 2010 01:17
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my1999gsr posted:Remember, I'm only quoting from my VW "suggested repair times" catalogue and I've never personally done one (unless you count the VR6 engine in the Touaregs) so my time quote isn't gosphel although $2000 seems a little steep even with parts. I'd say the touareg counts... not like the VR6 design is that different between the variations. Thanks for your comments; much appreciated!
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May 4, 2010 01:21
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Autism Sundae posted:Stick; no noise at all. I was told by dealership techs that it could be some pumps turning on and off but none of them seem to be sure about this, they just say something along the lines of "well there's so much stuff under the hood, it's probably normal". That's the whole thing though, I don't have any experience with these cars to know if it's normal or not. I have no idea how something like this can even be detected if it doesn't throw a CEL, and I know it goes on record but I'd rather not wait until it gets worse. I'm getting an oil change soon so I'll ask the shop tech about it. The update programming you got was for the intake flap motor but it shouldn't have anything to do with your vibration issue. What you were told about the ECU adapting is 100% true - it really does adapt to your driving style. It's surprising to drive a Jetta that's owned by an older driver because it's so soft on the shifts. I have access to all the RVU/TSBs for the GTI. Is there one in particular you're interested in? There's an outside chance that your vibration is due to a failing dual-mass flywheel. Don't take that as anything other than a shot in the dark - I've seen piles of failed dual-mass flywheels and a few have had a slight vibration prior to total failure but some of them don't or have other symptoms so it's just a guess. Usually you can see clutch debris and broken springs through the ports in the bottom of the bellhousing when the flywheel is totally ruined. Once again, I'm guessing so don't be alarmed - it's only a possibility without me having seen the car in person.
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May 4, 2010 01:34
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wav3form posted:I'd say the touareg counts... not like the VR6 design is that different between the variations. Thanks for your comments; much appreciated! Ah, but on the Touareg I have to drop the engine and tranny out of the chassis and then pull the trans and engine apart to get at the chains and tensioners - not the most fun I've ever had, I assure you.
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May 4, 2010 01:36
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my1999gsr posted:OK, this is a little tougher to diagnose. First, we need to figure out why it never warms up. Do you have any faults or a MIL light on? Also, has your S4 been in for the ignition coil recall yet? That it idles poorly is pretty strange - does it idle better when you've got a tank full of ethanol? No CELs, though the last time I VAG'd it I think I got "signal to warm up catalyst too low" or something similar (can't remember exactly, but it was a fault with the warm up catalyst). I told the local dealership this and got, "Well, it could be anything." Thanks, Audi. The 2 coil packs were replaced in trying to diagnose the failed ignition control modules, which were also both replaced at an independent shop. But no, it hasn't been in specifically for a recall, and none were mentioned whenever I went to the dealership. As for the fuel, I'm not sure. It might though, as it does tend to feel "worse" the lower my fuel gets. drat nice job on the replies by the way. Thanks.
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May 4, 2010 01:37
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DONT DO IT posted:No CELs, though the last time I VAG'd it I think I got "signal to warm up catalyst too low" or something similar (can't remember exactly, but it was a fault with the warm up catalyst). I told the local dealership this and got, "Well, it could be anything." Thanks, Audi. That code you got was most likely for 02 sensor/catalyst heater circuit too low or something similar - the 02 sensor has a pre-heater in it and they fail from time to time. Unless it's different in the US (where I'm assuming you're from) then you should have been called in for a coil inspection and replacement if required at no cost to you. Call your dealership with your VIN and see if you qualify. If you can get me the part numbers off all 6 of your coils (the part number is a 9 digit, alpha numeric that's on each coil where the plug connects to it) I can check to see if they qualify for replacement but a call to the dealer is probably easier. Here's a link: http://www.audicoils.com/ On to your problem - I'm still stumped. I wonder what your rail fuel pressure is. Another useful check is to get your car e-tested to see what kind of tailpipe emissions you've got - that will go a long way to diagnosing the problem. When the weather was still colder, were you able to get good heat from the climate control or was it weaker/cooler than it had been previously? my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:50 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 01:47
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my1999gsr posted:I have access to all the RVU/TSBs for the GTI. Is there one in particular you're interested in? Well, the RVU that I read about is for supposed engine problem that could cause some serious damage, not sure what the details were but it was for early MKVI GTIs and I guess dealerships had to test all GTIs on their lots. Do you have any records of something like that? Sorry I'm not being more specific. I'd be interested in finding out about any available RVUs/TSBs that apply to my car, of course. I'll ask one of the technicians about dual-mass flywheels when I go get my oil changed, thanks. Don't know if it's likely to fail at 4K miles. As far as vibration though, does that sound like something normal for the engine to you though (I know this is probably a bad question since you haven't seen the car)? Also, can the shop scan my car for faults in real time as it idles, or does the software only show CEL codes? Thanks again for answering so many questions.
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May 4, 2010 03:10
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Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits?
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May 4, 2010 03:13
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my1999gsr posted:I can somewhat diagnose this. It sounds like your window regulator assembly (which is a system of pulleys and cables) is in the middle of destroying itself. The only way to be sure is to take the inner door trim panel and inner door panel off and have a look at the mechanism to see what's going on. I've done this countless times for broken window clips and replacing door latches so that's the first step I take when the door motor isn't working as it should. If you'd like some instructions on how to do that I can help you - it's not hard just time-consuming the first time you do it. This probably won't help you, but the window stopped working in the exact same way in the winter of 08/09, then fixed itself in the summer of 09 and worked flawlessly, and then started having this behavior again this winter. Thankfully it was up when it stopped working, both times.
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May 4, 2010 08:48
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Autism Sundae posted:Oh yeah, one more - what's the effect of ECU adapting? My car has a manual so shifts won't be any smoother, but I'm assuming other things are affected. Will ECU readjust if I change my driving habits? That's a good question. My GLI is stick also and most days I just cruise to keep the gas mileage up. Other days i drive the piss out of it. I hope i'm not confusing the poor little bugger ><.
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May 4, 2010 15:50
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Do you see any big differences in the quality of the techs that work at VW and Audi dealerships? I'd gladly take my GTI for its scheduled maintenance (especially the DSG oil changeout) to an Audi dealership if I knew I would have a reduced chance of running into clowns
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May 4, 2010 16:38
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