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destructo posted:brb, shortcut?
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May 2, 2010 03:12
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:39 |
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destructo posted:"It's alright, I think we lost 'em.."
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May 2, 2010 03:24
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he's not even coming out of a corner  edit: hey phone how'd he do that??
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May 2, 2010 04:08
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Wow, I make you look like an amateur.
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May 2, 2010 06:27
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Phone posted:Wow, I make you look like an amateur. 
destructo fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 2, 2010 |
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May 2, 2010 06:57
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pacheco posted:My 2007 NC has a slow leak on the rear right tire. Pressure drops from 29psi to 22 after two weeks, all the other tires remain constant. Should I take it to the dealership or a tire place? My dad and I had the same problem on our cars, he tried getting it replaced under warranty, IIRC they said he'd have to take it up with the tire company. He used the Mazda IMS kit in the trunk (tire sealant and a pump) and his tire doesn't leak anymore. I didn't even bother asking about the warranty on mine. My leak was much worse than yours (29 to 20 over the course of a long work day) and it's stopped now.
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May 2, 2010 18:01
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The Third Man posted:he's not even coming out of a corner the tire marks in the grass make it look like he spun/lost it behind the camera.
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May 2, 2010 20:17
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GoblinBomb posted:My dad and I had the same problem on our cars, he tried getting it replaced under warranty, IIRC they said he'd have to take it up with the tire company. He used the Mazda IMS kit in the trunk (tire sealant and a pump) and his tire doesn't leak anymore. I didn't even bother asking about the warranty on mine. My leak was much worse than yours (29 to 20 over the course of a long work day) and it's stopped now. Hey, I didn't even think about that. I'll try it and see if the leak stops, thanks!
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May 2, 2010 21:26
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Don't use the tire goo stuff. Just take it to a discount tire (or similar) and they'll most likely find the leak and repair it for free.
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May 3, 2010 00:09
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beatdown posted:Don't use the tire goo stuff. Just take it to a discount tire (or similar) and they'll most likely find the leak and repair it for free. If you do use the goo and it still leaks, tell the tire shop before they crack the tire off the wheel.
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May 3, 2010 00:18
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FYI the goo is never intended to be a permanent solution. It's really just meant to get you back on the road so you can get to a tire shop. It could throw your wheel off balance.
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May 3, 2010 00:36
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My driver's side window is a pain in the rear end to roll down. What's the lubricant that everybody uses and how much of a pain in the rear end is it to do?
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May 3, 2010 01:59
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Heh, I went straight to miata.net/garage to find a solution for you and came across this: http://www.miata.net/garage/slow_window_fix.html I was ready to tell you to tear open the door and spray some lithium grease on that poo poo, but this looks like it might be a lot easier. I had no idea that little vent-window channel was the problem. e: well here's the other thing (probably what you were thinking of): http://www.miata.net/garage/lubricating_windows.html Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 02:37 on May 3, 2010 |
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May 3, 2010 02:29
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What's the best way to pop the miata and mazda emblems off the back of the car?
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May 4, 2010 03:51
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Tactical Bonnet posted:What's the best way to pop the miata and mazda emblems off the back of the car? I've heard dental floss and goo-gone but I haven't tried this myself.
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May 4, 2010 04:16
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Hog Obituary posted:Heh, I went straight to miata.net/garage to find a solution for you and came across this: http://www.miata.net/garage/slow_window_fix.html You are my hero. I'll be doing this as soon as possible. My driver's side window barely moves at this point.
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May 4, 2010 04:21
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It isn't always, I cleaned mine out and lubed it and it had zero effect. That said, mine rolls up easily enough, so I'll try lubing the cables and stuff.
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May 4, 2010 05:44
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Tactical Bonnet posted:What's the best way to pop the miata and mazda emblems off the back of the car? The left and right outside badges are attached with double-sided-foamy-tape, but the central Mazda symbol bolts through the trunk lid and leaves holes if removed. I warmed up outside badges with a heat gun and then slowly sawed through the tape with some floss, then picked off the residue with my fingers and a damp cloth. I'd have used Goo Gone but didn't have any and was too lazy to go to the store.
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May 4, 2010 15:09
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Also, what's my best option for a zipperless glass-window top? The zippered vinyl plastic window top that was on it when I bought it(only one year ago, ugh) is quite literally coming apart at the seams. Specifically, the seams around the rear window have come unstitched and are loose, the zipper for the window is in such bad shape that I'm afraid if I unzip it it will never zip up again and the top is developing a hole in one spot where the material bends funky when the top is put down. Also, regarding the seams of the top around the back window, is there anything that can be done to prevent that from happening? they started to come apart before I stopped zipping down the rear window, and they always bend the same way, never anything funky. The top looked brand new when I bought the car, is it possible the lovely dealership I bought it from just slapped on the cheapest top they could find and that's why it's falling apart so soon? For the record my top goes down/up an average of three times a day, is that too much?
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May 4, 2010 16:42
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Robbins tops are pretty well regarded, IIRC: http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/mazda.php Just note that zipperless and/or glass window tops won't work if you intend to install a rollbar.
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May 4, 2010 17:40
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Hog Obituary posted:Robbins tops are pretty well regarded, IIRC: http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/mazda.php I can definitely vouch for Robbins. I replaced my OEM with a Robbins no-zip glass vinyl top and it's been just as high quality as the OEM top, and the newer zipperless design and glass window are a huge upgrade in my opinion. I'm not planning on installing a rollbar so I didn't take that into consideration, but for a non-track car it's totally awesome.
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May 4, 2010 17:55
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Where are the prices on those robins tops?
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May 4, 2010 18:36
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I don't know what they are today, but I can't imagine they've changed that much. I paid around $425 in 2007 for a vinyl zipperless glass top with defroster elements (which I still haven't plugged in...), which I think included something like a 15% off coupon for a first time order from either Moss Motors or Flyin' Miata or somewhere like that - so I definitely recommend looking into it. Of course, I spent that much again to get it professionally installed by the best shop in town, but I don't regret it since it was done perfectly the first time and didn't involve an entire weekend of frustration. 
Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:41 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 19:37
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Hog Obituary posted:Robbins tops are pretty well regarded, IIRC: http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/mazda.php Supposedly there are a few roll bars that will fit the Robbins tops with the glass windows. I think the Boss Frog roll bars work.
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May 4, 2010 23:20
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Suniikaa posted:It's possible your filler neck vent is blocked. I know this was from a while ago, but just wanted to say thanks. Brought it to the dealer and they claimed that there was no recall. Printed out the recall info and gave it to them, and they claimed the recall was expired. After a bit of back-and-forth, they finally fixed it for free. Will not return to this dealership for anything.
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May 5, 2010 00:02
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Hog Obituary posted:Robbins tops are pretty well regarded, IIRC: http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/mazda.php I have a zipperless vinyl top with a plastic window and it works just fine with the rollbar (Hard Dog Harcore DD). It's just the glass window that's the problem with them.
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May 5, 2010 04:35
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DreamOn13 posted:I have a zipperless vinyl top with a plastic window and it works just fine with the rollbar (Hard Dog Harcore DD). It's just the glass window that's the problem with them. Oh that's good to know should I ever decide to replace my top. I have the HDHCHTDD
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May 5, 2010 05:50
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Hog Obituary posted:Oh that's good to know should I ever decide to replace my top. I have the HDHCHTDD Mine is the hard top version as well, just for the record.
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May 5, 2010 12:26
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So the boots on all of my balljoints and tie rod ends are busted on my '92. Nothing makes noise... but I need to get the car aligned before I put my Star Specs on because I hit a curb back in January and I half-rear end fixed the alignment myself. Any reason why I shouldn't just wait til the ball joints start making noise before I replace them? Only 82k miles...
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May 6, 2010 01:36
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Okay... where the hell did everybody go?  Dropped the '92 off at the local shop to have the Star Specs and alignment done. Naturally, they broke the first cam bolt they even tried to get to, which means it has to be torched out... which means the bushings are gonna get melted. I just ordered a full set of energy bushings and 8 new cam bolts. Looks like tuesday-thursday evenings are gonna be miata surgery nights. Anything else I should replace now that I really have everything apart? Ball joints, upper control arms, shocks, springs? FML  
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May 8, 2010 17:30
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Why are you paying for the shop's mistake?
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May 8, 2010 21:28
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Guinness posted:Why are you paying for the shop's mistake? What mistake did they make?
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May 8, 2010 21:50
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They broke the bolt?
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May 8, 2010 21:59
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My Miata is getting up here by the 28th, I'll finally get to drive again, and be free of bumming rides off other people
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May 8, 2010 22:09
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Switched from whatever trans fluid the NC comes with to Motorcraft Full Synthetic. Haven't done any cold shifting yet but it already feels much smoother. Really wishing I'd gotten the Cobalt short-shifter when it was on sale a few weeks ago. edit: it's still 77.95 from Moss so I think I will get one. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 23:55 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 23:49
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Guinness posted:Why are you paying for the shop's mistake? Shop didn't make a mistake. Car is old, bolts are seized up.
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May 9, 2010 00:06
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Cross posting from miata.net about my money shift.  I was driving the car on track and was on the straight. I nearly redlined 3rd and went to shift to 4th and hit 2nd instead. The car sounded like there was gravel in the oil pan, so I figured I must have spun a bearing or something. I drove into the pits and took off the valve cover, and nothing looked out of place, though the timing may have been off about a 1/2 tooth or so. I drove the car home and noticed that on decel it would be very loud, like a semi on decel or something. Once up to highway speed and maintaining speed or accelerating it sounded normal though. It seems to have all the power (or lack of) that it had before, but I still plan to do a compression to test to check the valves. After about an hour of driving it seemed to have completely disappeared, but came back later when I tried to drive the car again. The oil pressure is normal, and looks clear like it had before. Any idea what I broke? I'm planning on doing a compression test, and draining the oil and looking for shiny bits. Someone suggested I may have dropped a lifter or something, but I'm not really sure what it could be at this point. Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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May 9, 2010 23:14
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You'd have to have an odd tensioner failure to load properly to do anything other than an integer of teeth off on crank/cam pulleys. You can't really drop a lifter, since its directly actuated valves with a 'lifter' (its really a lash adjuster) inbetween the cam lobe and valve top.
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May 10, 2010 01:08
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Blaise posted:I just ordered a full set of energy bushings and 8 new cam bolts. Looks like tuesday-thursday evenings are gonna be miata surgery nights. Anything else I should replace now that I really have everything apart? Ball joints, upper control arms, shocks, springs? I just did this job. The grease is the worst thing I've dealt with on a car. I still have to degrease all the tools I used on the job. Wear gloves and for the love of god don't touch your hair/face. I put zerk fittings in at the same time, the extra work was trivial once you have everything apart. I also used the HF balljoint tool, every bushing came out easily, did the whole job with a 1/2" ratchet, occasionally used a jack handle as a cheater. (~100k mi `97). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W5215/ using the 1/4" fittings I had plenty of zerks. I did my tie rod ends at the same time because the boots were ripped.
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May 10, 2010 16:19
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DreamOn13 posted:Cross posting from miata.net about my money shift. A dropped (don't they mean collapsed?) lifter would be clacking all the time.
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May 10, 2010 16:29
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