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I ground gears twice I think but those were just stupid mistakes on my part. I actually thought 1-2 was pretty difficult too, but the thing that works for me is pushing the shifter all the way to the left and back when going into second. Delayed throttle response is probably due to drive-by-wire lag.
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May 6, 2010 17:30
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Autism Sundae posted:I paid attention to this today and my GTI doesn't do anything like it, I can take off from a stop pretty smoothly as long as I don't gently caress up a shift. So maybe your issue is worth a trip to the dealer, although they probably won't be happy about boost gauges etc. Yeah, I only have the boost gauge in when I want to see what's going on with the boost. It's the vent pod one, which sucks if you want any AC coming out of that vent, but it's easy to swap in and out whenever I want. As for that issue, I guess I'll call up the dealer and see what they think.
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May 6, 2010 18:35
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? If i recall correctly, the "sport suspension" that is on most VWs is actually eibach springs. The thing to remember is, VWs in Europe don't get sold as 4x4s like they do here in the US. People here are stupid and dont know how to drive or park so they have to be higher so they don't tear the front end off. Also, I've been told they have to be higher to pass side impact tests. Unless you go extremely low with a really stiff spring, you wont hurt anything. My 04.5 gli came with springs that were 1" lower than stock and the suspension is still in perfect shape. To the guy wanting an mk3, don't do it man. At this point, the mk3 jetta is at least 12 years old as someone else said. My 95 jetta was a giant piece of poo poo. It never left me stranded, but it did piss me off alot. Sunroof stopped working, AC blew up, random electrical gremlins. You can still manage to pick up an 05 mk4 with reasonable milage if you look. Heck my 04.5 GLI has only 56k on it. By 04/05 they had pretty much worked all the kinks out of the mk4. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:59 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 20:57
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? I've got the VW sport springs on my '08 Rabbit (which as veedubfreak said, are just rebranded Eibach springs). I'd say as long as you stick with the official VW springs you shouldn't have any trouble with premature wear. I haven't so far, anyway. I've had mine on since a few months after I bought it in 2008, and couldn't be happier with them, both from a style and performance standpoint. Plus, if a VW tech installs them, they will adjust your current setup to match up with the new springs and your suspension warranty will remain intact. If I recall, the installer even asked me if I was putting them on for performance or if I just wanted my car slammed. I told him both looks and performance, and he adjusted as such. They probably could have even gone a bit lower, but I've been pretty happy with the results. I was like you, in that I hated that it looked too SUV-ish at first. empty baggie fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 23:10
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? Coil overs.
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May 7, 2010 00:19
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primitive posted:Will lowering springs cause premature suspension wear in my car? I have an early 2007 GTI, and the stock springs for that car make it look like a minivan. The switch to the lower ride height happened about a month after my car was produced. What I'm wondering is if I switch to springs that lower me to late-07 OEM equivalent, do I risk premature wear to any other parts of the suspension that might be tuned for the higher ride height? I'm not sure of the drop you'd get with the later version springs but it's a good rule of thumb to get the car aligned after you install any different suspension parts. It might still be within spec but you can get an alignment for $80ish and not have to worry about eating tires.
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May 7, 2010 02:04
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heat posted:I bought a 94 jetta with a broken front spring, and I found a guy who put new struts on his mk3 and then promptly bent the frame in an accident, so I figured I would just buy the whole assembly from him. After building my own tool for the absolutely ridiculous front strut mounts (grinding down both sides of a 22mm socket so I can grab it with a crescent wrench while putting a hex key down through the middle to hold the post) and that not working, the only other thing the internet is telling me is that an impact wrench can pop those nuts right off without bothering with a hex key to stop the post from spinning. Is this accurate? I do it all the time actually and it works very well. Keep in mind that you also have to reinstall everything and the impact doesn't do that quite as well - it tends to spin the shaft of the strut.
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May 7, 2010 02:06
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my1999gsr posted:What year is you GTI? It is a 2007
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May 7, 2010 02:40
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my1999gsr posted:According to my parts dept your part number is N 104 457 01 - gas discharge bulb. Thanks! $80 for the bulb was a whole lot cheaper than $400 something for the whole light package.
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May 7, 2010 04:37
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my1999gsr posted:Sorry - we don't get the Polo in North America so I'm not famliiar with it specifically but I can offer a suggestion - bleed your clutch and/or change the clutch fluid. Given what's already been tried with your car I'd want to make sure the hydraulic system for the clutch was in good shape before going further. Opensourcepirate posted:Echoing what my1999gsr said about the hydraulic system, my friend had a similar problem with his Ford Contour, and it ended up being a bad master or slave cylinder (I forget which). Thanks guys, I will pursue this avenue of enquiry next.
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May 7, 2010 10:52
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Blackdawgg posted:It is a 2007 Your problem isn't a familiar one to me but I'll ask around at the shop to see if anyone else has encountered it.
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May 7, 2010 22:14
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my1999gsr posted:Your problem isn't a familiar one to me but I'll ask around at the shop to see if anyone else has encountered it. I'd appreciate it, Thanks.
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May 8, 2010 02:39
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Hey guys, I'm looking at pulling the trigger on a new VW Jetta 118T SI. I'm not a fan of diesel engines (please dont try to convert me) and the Jetta looks tasty. I like that it's fairly luxurious\good looking, but got some balls to it as well. Fuel economy doesn't matter that much to me. My big concern with this is that I need it to be very reliable. Also, servicing costs are a bit of a concern. My decision has come down between the Jetta and a Subaru Impreza RX (not WRX). Both are about the same price, the RX is AWD, but the Jetta is a nicer car so it comes down to the bottom line. How much do Jettas cost for servicing\parts etc. compared to a Subaru? Generally speaking of course, but I would've thought that the Jetta would be fairly expensive in this regard.
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May 8, 2010 02:47
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'00 Passat VR6. I was driving about a half mile from my house, the car hadn't even warmed up yet and the temperature light went on. I pulled over, restarted the car, light was off. about 100 feet later the light comes on again, the car is halfway between cold and operating temperature, I decide to drive it home and take the gf's car. The light goes off by itself and stays off on the way home and doesn't go above normal operation temp. Should I be concerned? I'm thinking thermostat was stuck closed but I've never seen this before.
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May 8, 2010 03:56
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Sepist posted:'00 Passat VR6. I was driving about a half mile from my house, the car hadn't even warmed up yet and the temperature light went on. I pulled over, restarted the car, light was off. about 100 feet later the light comes on again, the car is halfway between cold and operating temperature, I decide to drive it home and take the gf's car. The light goes off by itself and stays off on the way home and doesn't go above normal operation temp. What color is your coolant temp sensor?
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May 8, 2010 05:22
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Sepist posted:'00 Passat VR6. I was driving about a half mile from my house, the car hadn't even warmed up yet and the temperature light went on. I pulled over, restarted the car, light was off. about 100 feet later the light comes on again, the car is halfway between cold and operating temperature, I decide to drive it home and take the gf's car. The light goes off by itself and stays off on the way home and doesn't go above normal operation temp. You've gotta be leaking water.
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May 8, 2010 05:29
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I just recently got an 01.5 S4, and I've got a question about a noise it makes. It seems like once it warms up, it makes a rather noticeable roaring noise on acceleration and in motion, distinct from the engine, turbo, and road noises. It's most prominent in 1st gear, but seems like it's there in other gears too, though not very noticeable. It's also there when the car's cold, but much quieter. I'm wondering if this is a normal noise, or if not, what it might be (some kind of bearing somewhere?).
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May 8, 2010 07:23
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wav3form posted:What color is your coolant temp sensor? Red, it wasn't the temp sensor it must've been coolant low light, I popped the hood before work this morning and the reservoir was empty. I filled it back up but I really hope that's not a head gasket leak. It went from full resevoir to empty in 3 weeks.
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May 8, 2010 12:58
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Sepist posted:Red, it wasn't the temp sensor it must've been coolant low light, I popped the hood before work this morning and the reservoir was empty. I filled it back up but I really hope that's not a head gasket leak. It went from full resevoir to empty in 3 weeks. Coolant levels can gradually drop over time without any leaks so if you haven't had to top off the jug in a year or so you might just have been low. Keep a close eye on the coolant level for the next couple of hours of driving. If the coolant level drops enough for you to notice it or turn on the temp light then it's time to pressurize the coolant circuit and look for leaks.
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May 8, 2010 15:59
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Rhusitaurion posted:I just recently got an 01.5 S4, and I've got a question about a noise it makes. It seems like once it warms up, it makes a rather noticeable roaring noise on acceleration and in motion, distinct from the engine, turbo, and road noises. It's most prominent in 1st gear, but seems like it's there in other gears too, though not very noticeable. It's also there when the car's cold, but much quieter. I'm wondering if this is a normal noise, or if not, what it might be (some kind of bearing somewhere?). That's tough to diagnose without actually hearing it. I'd like to say wheel bearing because the A4-series Audi bearings do have a shorter lifespan than I'd like. Are you getting the noise from the front, rear, left, right, during accel AND coasting, when turning left or right, going over bumps? A few more details might help me point you in the right direction.
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May 8, 2010 16:04
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my1999gsr posted:That's tough to diagnose without actually hearing it. I'd like to say wheel bearing because the A4-series Audi bearings do have a shorter lifespan than I'd like. Are you getting the noise from the front, rear, left, right, during accel AND coasting, when turning left or right, going over bumps? A few more details might help me point you in the right direction. I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel bearing, as I had it in a shop recently for what I thought was a wheel bearing, and it turned out that I was a moron and the wheels were bent and thus noisy. I replaced the wheels and that noise is gone. It's coming from the front, and seems to be mainly related to engine speed, i.e. increases in loudness as RPM increases, and if I let off the gas and coast in gear it will decrease as I slow. Doesn't seem to be affected by turning or bumps, but I'll have to do more extensive testing. I suppose it's possible that this is just a normal noise, but I haven't driven long enough in a "known-good" S4 to really tell.
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May 9, 2010 05:13
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Rhusitaurion posted:I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel bearing, as I had it in a shop recently for what I thought was a wheel bearing, and it turned out that I was a moron and the wheels were bent and thus noisy. I replaced the wheels and that noise is gone. If you rev the engine in neutral is the noise there?
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May 9, 2010 18:41
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(quasi-cross-post from the 'piss you off' thread) I tried replacing the low-beam bulb after I got it, thanks to your help with the part number.  I got the hood release pull taken off (a little tricky with big fingers), two bolts and seven plastic clips for the grille, four bolts for the bumper under thre grille, two bolts holding on the pillars of the bumper that go between the grille and the headlamps, three quick release bolts that hold the underside of the bumper-airdam to the bottom of the car, three bolts on each side of the wheel well, and it still wouldn't slide out of the guide pieces. It feels like its binding, or is still screwed in where the lip of the bumper meets the fender, but I can't see any bolts there and I'd have to take off the wheel well covers to investigate further. I'd love to change the bulb out -- do you have any suggestions?
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May 9, 2010 21:37
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bennyfactor posted:(quasi-cross-post from the 'piss you off' thread) Did you get the 2 #5's on the diagram? If I recall, those 2 screws will go upwards between the plastic of the bumper cover and the metal of the fender itself. There should be an indent/cutout in the fender-liner right where the fender and bumper meet so that you can access the screws. EDIT: Wait a sec.. Isn't your car a Passat? If it is, then there's 1 or 2 10mm nuts that you have to move the fender liner out of the way to see. With the fender liner out of the way, if you shine a light forward (toward the back of the turn signal lens in the bumper) you should see them. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 00:57
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bennyfactor posted:
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May 10, 2010 01:32
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Rhusitaurion posted:stuff about noise How about the strut mounts?
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May 10, 2010 04:36
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Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere? For example, I was recently reading the build log of someone who took a 323i sedan and swapped in the engine, SMG, and ECU from a M3 of the same generation to build the E46 M3 sedan that BMW never bothered to. He was able to take the car to his local BMW dealer and have them flip the necessary software switches in the ECU to have it acknowledge it was now in a sedan and should look for the modules found in a sedan without trouble, even though that particular engine+body combination never officially existed. I've heard enough about various part swaps with other VWs and Audis from my GTI-owning friend to assume VAG does something similar with their computers, so that got me thinking. If someone had the money, could they pick up an A6 Avant, trans/AWD from a S6, and import the twin-turbo V10, put it all together, haul it to the dealer (or even hook up to a VAG-COM system maybe?) for programming, and drive out with what is effectively a RS6 Avant (ignoring the other more minor differences for sake of not listing them)? Obviously this is hypothetical and would require a lot of time/money, but it's the VAG car I lust over most so it was the first to come to mind. I'm sure some less extreme combos could be thought of, maybe GTI chassis with the TDI motor to give us the GTD model the Europeans get. wolrah fucked around with this message at 23:43 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 23:41
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wolrah posted:Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere? I can't speak for how well these switches would work once flipped though. Also, got a link for that build log? I'd like to read it.
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May 10, 2010 23:48
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Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)?
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May 11, 2010 00:21
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Blocko posted:Also, got a link for that build log? I'd like to read it. I was reading it on a friend's computer, so I can't find some of the various forum threads related to the build, but the guy's main site is here: http://e46.mit.edu/ It's a great read.
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May 11, 2010 00:37
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my1999gsr posted:Did you get the 2 #5's on the diagram? If I recall, those 2 screws will go upwards between the plastic of the bumper cover and the metal of the fender itself. There should be an indent/cutout in the fender-liner right where the fender and bumper meet so that you can access the screws. Yeah, there's three #5s per side, took those out. Thanks for the tip on the nuts; I'l try again this weekend. primitive posted:Holding it down on the engineering tip?
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May 11, 2010 01:37
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Autism Sundae posted:Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)? There are lots of non-VW shops that do warranty work. As long as the parts are correct and installed correctly it's usually covered.
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May 11, 2010 02:46
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wolrah posted:Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere? We occasionally get requests from customers for things like this. At the dealership level it's a rare event mainly because of the costs involved. Once we quote out the parts cost with the labor, most people back off. I'm the guy in the dealership that would volunteer for a job like that because it looks like fun (and I'm not flat rate) but it's just not something most dealerships would be into. We'll certainly order the parts for you (in most cases - sometimes we aren't even allowed to order non N. American parts) but after that, it's up to you.
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May 11, 2010 02:53
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Mk5 Jetta: I've got (well, had) the 6-disc no navi VW radio. I want to change it out for a DVD player, for passenger comfort on road-trips. I ordered my parts from sonicelectronix, and according to their "pick stuff for your car" thingie, only single-DIN units fit into the Jetta. I know this is a load of crap, because the Scoshe adapter is a drat double-DIN one. Are there depth concerns with most double-DIN replacement units? I'm looking at this Clarion unit. What the christ are they saying won't fit with my car? 
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May 11, 2010 18:06
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I'm looking at buying my friend's 2002 Passat for about $3000. I've personally driven it about 5,000 miles over the past 4 years and it's not great, but it'd be cheap. It has 125,000 miles. Some problems: -I think a tie-end rod is bent - tracks off to the side and creaks when turning -Burns a lot of oil - it's done this for a couple thousand miles now -Random plastic tabs (like the one holding the driver door handle on) are breaking everywhere -Two tires are bald -Transmission is kind of clunky, this has also been the case for a while. At one point a mechanic said the transmission was leaking but that was at least 5k miles go and nothing has exploded yet. I'm mechanically inclined enough to do just about anything motorcycle maintenance related, so I figure I can probably fix this stuff myself for the cost of parts. I really have no idea what the root of the oil problem is. I'm guessing some sort of gasket? Also no idea how much gasket stuff plus ATF plus tie end plus tires are going to cost. Worth $3000 or should I avoid?
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May 12, 2010 01:21
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For 2010, what are the VW/Audi models with 4 doors, manual transmissions and cloth interiors? Golf TDI, GTI, and... anything else?
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May 12, 2010 01:26
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insta posted:Mk5 Jetta: Well, the stock radio in all the VW line (at least in N. America anyway) is a double DIN and it has a pile of room behind it too - I'd say 6" or more so it shouldn't interfere with an aftermarket radio in any way. I've seen a very similar unit to the one you're looking at installed in a newer A4 Audi which has about the same amount of space. Try Crutchfield.com and see what they say fits in your car.
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May 12, 2010 01:50
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insta posted:Mk5 Jetta: It's a double-DIN unit in that car. However, if you use an aftermarket unit you'll need to replace of cut the surround/fascia to fit the new unit, as the VW one has rounded corners. I'd imagine that someone makes a direct replacement. I've pulled lots of MK V Radios, they're all double-DIN size. hayden. posted:I'm looking at buying my friend's 2002 Passat for about $3000. I've personally driven it about 5,000 miles over the past 4 years and it's not great, but it'd be cheap. It has 125,000 miles. I'd pass. Creaks when turning is probably suspension bushes, the front suspension is 4-link and not really cheap to replace parts on. Creaking is usually the lower rearward link arm, which isn't particularly expsive and isn't hard to replace, but when they call wear out they're expensive. VW/Audi auto Gearboxes are known for being clunky and having hard shifts. With the exception of the Audi-spec boxes the autos can't really handle much abuse and hard driving. The leak is most likely the gearbox sump gasket, which is cheap and easy to fix. Burning oil, constantly? On startup? Any smoke? Which engine does it have? The 1.8Ts in Passats are known for oil sludging, which results in premature engine failure. Bolkovr posted:For 2010, what are the VW/Audi models with 4 doors, manual transmissions and cloth interiors? Golf TDI, GTI, and... anything else? Where are you? Here in Europe, pretty much the entire range.
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May 12, 2010 01:50
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Autism Sundae posted:Can a VW owner take his car to an Audi dealership for warranty service or vice versa (Audi owner going to a VW dealer)? For warranty work, the shop much be an approved/certified shop. Other work carried out by someone else while the car is under warranty will not void or affect the warranty so long as the parts used are original and the work was carried out to a sufficient quality.
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May 12, 2010 01:55
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hayden. posted:I'm looking at buying my friend's 2002 Passat for about $3000. I've personally driven it about 5,000 miles over the past 4 years and it's not great, but it'd be cheap. It has 125,000 miles. That creak and tracking problem isn't likely a tie rod being bent, it's more likely to be one or more of the front suspension links/arms going bad. That creak is a very common complaint when they're on the way out. Usually replacing those links is a total pain in the rear end because most of the time they're frozen in the spindle, the pinch bolt is seized or any combination of both. I've had to use the oxy torch, an air hammer and a drill to get that pinch bolt out on many occasions. Since I work in the rust belt, the cars I see tend to have corrosion that makes it much more difficult but if you're from a non-salty, warmish climate it may go much easier for you. What engine and transmission does this Passat have? It's hard to say what the long term effects of a leaking transmission are in this case. Often mechanics that aren't familiar with VW transmissions see the differential side seals leaking (where the axles come out of the transaxle case) and assume the tranny itself if losing fluid and that's not the case. It's certainly possible that you've got a trans leak but it's not a common problem but I've seen many, many seals leaking differential fluid. If the oil is being burned, that's one thing, if the oil level drops gradually but you're not seeing any blue smoke from the tail pipe then I'd be looking for leaks. We're seeing a lot of cam adjuster seals going bad on the earlier Passats and A4s and they can really drench the engine with oil. Have a look at the rear of the head near the firewall - you should see three T30 Torx bolts. Those bolts fasten the cam adjuster housing so look in that area for some oil accumulation. This is for the 1.8T engine, but the V6 is similar. I'd stay away - at it's age, this Passat will slowly empty your wallet and fill you with hate. No joke about the oil pickup getting sludged up either - I posted some pics in the Mechanical Failures thread of the damage that can be done to the 1.8T when oil can't get to the cam bearings. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 02:20 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 01:58
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