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For thinning gw paints for use in airbrush: any difference between 70% isopropyl alcohol and 90%? Will it cause my paints to screw up badly?
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# ? May 16, 2010 06:17 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:03 |
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floatman posted:For thinning gw paints for use in airbrush: any difference between 70% isopropyl alcohol and 90%? Will it cause my paints to screw up badly? I don't know for sure, but I would think 90% would evaporate more rapidly from the paint because of the concentration of alcohol (which evaporates at room temperature) instead of being more filler. I'd wait for someone else to answer, since mine is just a guess - but I would assume that's the only real difference since chemically 90% should produce any reaction that 70% won't.
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# ? May 16, 2010 08:04 |
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No Pun Intended posted:Oh man that is sexy - where is it from? The only thing I'd change is it has got a bad case of Tau-legs. It obviously cannot escape its genetic heritage.
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# ? May 16, 2010 08:08 |
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Ok, so honestly here, am I off track on this? The base, specifically. Because I'm trying something quick and dirty to see if I can't do something interesting on the cheap. But I can't tell if it's just ridiculous or not. For reference: The lot of this took about half an hour. Debris, detritus, etc can be added, of course. I have no idea to what degree, but I assume it shouldn't cause problems. But is it bad?
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:03 |
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Try painting one up to see if it has enough depth to actually look in-scale.
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:20 |
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How do you mean?
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:23 |
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It looks like theres little valleys in the fake-grout between the fake-tiles but they don't look deep enough to feel like designs in a temple or a spaceship or whatever you're going for.
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:27 |
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Yeah, I was kinda afraid of that, but I don't really know how to give more of an appearance of depth that wouldn't be immediately rendered moot by moving your head a couple of inches. Darken the darks and get a little extreme edge highlighting "above" them, I guess.
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:30 |
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Maybe cut out the grout?
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# ? May 16, 2010 10:32 |
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I was just thinking that, but I imagine it'd probably leave me with a sticky, fabricky mess. Not to mention it'd probably go a long way to alleviate the whole "quick" part of the project. But I guess quick looks crap in the long run. I'm wondering if just throwing down something of the appropriate scale (sand, trash) would help. No, probably not if the problem is fake depth, huh? It'd just mean grit floating over not-lower grout. Edit: hahaha quick and cheap. $1.75 for floor tiles, sixteen bucks of GW bases ruined. GG,GW. Fix fucked around with this message at 10:52 on May 16, 2010 |
# ? May 16, 2010 10:34 |
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Cross-posting from the Warmahordes thread: Rarrrr! I'm an angry polar bear! So very fun to paint.
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# ? May 16, 2010 14:47 |
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My Sentinal has gone from languishing around in black undercoat, to a lovely even shade of green, to dry-brushed, all thanks to the advice I've received from this thread. Thanks guys!
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# ? May 16, 2010 15:06 |
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floatman posted:My Sentinal has gone from languishing around in black undercoat, Can I badger you to find out what green you've used for the basecoat and what colours you've used to highlight? looks vaguely like orkhide shade for the base (or dark angels green?), I have my own dark green technique for my dark angels and also biel-tan eldar but just interested in how you're doing it as it's a nice look.
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# ? May 16, 2010 15:10 |
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Fix posted:Ok, so honestly here, am I off track on this? The edges are rough, but I think it looks ok. I don't know why it would necessarily have deep grooves between the tiles, though. If you think about big marble floors in palaces and stuff, the tiles are fitted with hardly a ridge to be seen. Maybe the most you could do is lightly drybrush the surface to catch some of the ridges, to give it a very mild scaling-down effect.
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# ? May 16, 2010 15:20 |
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enri posted:Can I badger you to find out what green you've used for the basecoat and what colours you've used to highlight? looks vaguely like orkhide shade for the base (or dark angels green?), I have my own dark green technique for my dark angels and also biel-tan eldar but just interested in how you're doing it as it's a nice look. Dark Angels green for the basecoat over a black undercoat. Some vaguely questionable dry brushing of Catachan Green. (Does it show up? I don't know) Top off with dry brushing of miracle colour, Bleached Bone.
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# ? May 16, 2010 15:30 |
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floatman posted:The bleached bone makes the green look like it's glowing gonna file that info away for future reference
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# ? May 16, 2010 19:28 |
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Fix posted:I was just thinking that, but I imagine it'd probably leave me with a sticky, fabricky mess. Not to mention it'd probably go a long way to alleviate the whole "quick" part of the project. But I guess quick looks crap in the long run. Yeah, looks like cut up lino to me. The "grout" is waaaaay too wide for it to look like real masonry. Maybe if you cut up the "tile" parts into actual little tiles, and lay them in patterns or something?
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# ? May 17, 2010 03:15 |
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Better? Worse? Shut the gently caress up, Fix?
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# ? May 17, 2010 04:27 |
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better, from what I can see
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# ? May 17, 2010 04:40 |
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Fix posted:Better? Worse? Shut the gently caress up, Fix? Yes. Better. Having said that, needs more... Something. The broad, featureless areas are perhaps too featureless. Maybe spread around some darker paint thinned to a glaze consistency to create a faux marble effect?
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# ? May 17, 2010 05:31 |
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Tried my first crack at wet blending, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. I saw videos of it done and it seems I'm either not using enough mixture on the paint or I'm gloping the mix on too much. How watery should the paint be when I use it? What kind of brush works best? What kind of motions do I make to mix it, horizontal or vertical? I NEED ANSWERS DAMNIT
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# ? May 17, 2010 06:37 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Yes. Better. Having said that, needs more... Something. The broad, featureless areas are perhaps too featureless. Maybe spread around some darker paint thinned to a glaze consistency to create a faux marble effect? Could use crackle medium on some spots too.
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# ? May 17, 2010 06:42 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Could use crackle medium on some spots too. I've been wondering about this stuff, too. What's a good use for it?
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# ? May 17, 2010 06:45 |
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crime fighting hog posted:I've been wondering about this stuff, too. What's a good use for it? An antique ceramic effect. Best example is Chris Clayton's Ultramarine from the 2009 UK Golden Demon Open Category (the white armour). Average score on CMON: 9.9 WIP here edit: WIP Part 2 MaliciousOnion fucked around with this message at 07:53 on May 17, 2010 |
# ? May 17, 2010 07:22 |
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At this scale though, not much. You really need larger planes of space to make good use of the stuff. I'll throw down some grit and see if that takes, but for most of the bases it's already a faux marble design, so I don't know if I can add much to that. Come to think about it, I don't really know how I'd go about it.
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# ? May 17, 2010 07:39 |
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MaliciousOnion posted:An antique ceramic effect. Best example is Chris Clayton's Ultramarine from the 2009 UK Golden Demon Open Category (the white armour). Oh I know all about this one. I'll give it a shot on my soul grinder maybe. Thanks
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# ? May 17, 2010 07:39 |
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I've seen that model before, but never the WIP. I'm ready to give up right now. :
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# ? May 17, 2010 07:43 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Oh I know all about this one. I'll give it a shot on my soul grinder maybe. Thanks If you can get the crackle to work (apparently it can be a bitch, so I'd probably do a few tests first), a Chaos machine of some sort would probably be the best possible way to use this effect. (I really hope you do this.)
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# ? May 17, 2010 07:44 |
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MaliciousOnion posted:If you can get the crackle to work (apparently it can be a bitch, so I'd probably do a few tests first), a Chaos machine of some sort would probably be the best possible way to use this effect. For a soul grinder and my defiler, perhaps. I have no other chaos vehicles, just a shitload of troops I picked up on the side for fun. It's on the tail end of my to-do list.
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# ? May 17, 2010 07:45 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Tried my first crack at wet blending, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. I saw videos of it done and it seems I'm either not using enough mixture on the paint or I'm gloping the mix on too much. How watery should the paint be when I use it? What kind of brush works best? What kind of motions do I make to mix it, horizontal or vertical? I NEED ANSWERS DAMNIT Did you watch the one by Les from AwesomePaintJob.com? He does a tutorial using water-soluble oil paints first, and he makes it look easy as pie. Then he does it with regular acrylics, and it takes him three times as long, and it still doesn't look as good. Short answer: Wet blending with water-based acrylic paints is a pain in the loving rear end, and it will take a real, real long time before it looks good. EDIT: That slow dry mix I told you about is 1/1 that and paint, as you would normally do to thin paints. If that isn't slow enough for you, well... 3/2 might work, I'm not sure.
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:01 |
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I'm half tempted to get the oil paints but I bet they're expensive as poo poo and come in huge bottles.
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:06 |
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Tubes, not bottles, it's like 7 bucks for 40ml or so.
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:08 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Tried my first crack at wet blending, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. I saw videos of it done and it seems I'm either not using enough mixture on the paint or I'm gloping the mix on too much. How watery should the paint be when I use it? What kind of brush works best? What kind of motions do I make to mix it, horizontal or vertical? I NEED ANSWERS DAMNIT hey, this isn't wet blending but here's a blending tutorial that I've found really helpful, and here is another where he puts it to use.
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:08 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Tubes, not bottles, it's like 7 bucks for 40ml or so. looks like i'm going to blick tomorrow
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:14 |
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Oh man that thread was amazing M. Onion. I cant believe he used real gold as a highlight. So in the end, it seems he didnt even win the gold, do we know who did? Or what year so I can google?
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# ? May 17, 2010 08:24 |
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This won: http://demonwinner.free.fr/uk/2009/golden_demon_winner.php?categorie=13
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# ? May 17, 2010 09:12 |
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Quick question for all you guys who use pigments. I dont have any turpentine, and I want to sort of glob some rusty orange pigments to the tracks of some rhinos. Could I just mix up some pigment with thinned white glue and jam that poo poo on there? I was also considering using the pigments to build up a base of red martian mud/dust on the tanks, then blending the dust in using my airbrush. I havent used any of these techniques before, and its a commission, so Id prefer wild success over spectacular failure
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# ? May 17, 2010 18:05 |
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Tentacle Party posted:Oh man that thread was amazing M. Onion. I cant believe he used real gold as a highlight. The general consensus is that even though he put a shitload of time, work, effort and technique into his model, it didn't win gold because it was, overall, a boring piece. It's not particularly dynamic nor exciting, and I'd have to agree on that respect.
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# ? May 17, 2010 18:41 |
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Yeah, I think while it is "technically" pretty amazing, it really lacks contrast. The face in particular looks like a weird wax mask, because there are no cools or reds in it at all. The banner is loving incredible though, astonishingly good.
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# ? May 17, 2010 18:49 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:03 |
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The dude's face reminds me of Robocop, and not in a good way. And yeah that banner is out of loving control, jesus.
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# ? May 17, 2010 18:53 |