|
Ericadia posted:Trust me I've had my phone set up to alert me whenever the words "air compressor" are used in craigslist ads in my areas. So far mostly pancake compressors. All the verticals have looked like poo poo or have been way too expensive. I guess I am just starting to get discouraged and am compromising. My first compressor was a Craftsman "5HP" (1.5HP) 120v, 33 gallon, oilless. I bought it on sale at Sears for $350. God it was awful. Loud, underpowered, and not very portable. I sold it for $200 on CL, and bought my CH for $599 at Lowes on clearance. Its completely non-portable, but with a 50' air line, and a 50' reel, I can reach anything I need to (including my basement to run my framing nailer). Its about the same noise level, but it puts out ~15CFM at 90psi, as opposed to the CMan, which put out 5CFM. That means it runs for way less time, and the 80 gallon tank means it can run a grinder or my small sandblaster for a few minutes without cycling on again. As for power, you COULD branch off the hot tub circuit, if its available. You just wouldn't be able to run both at the same time. I have mine wired directly to my garage circuit box, thank god the PO put it in. You could also check the industrial auctions in your area, I check http://irsauctions.com/ regularly. I've seen 5HP Speedaires go for $300. There just isn't much in the Northeast near me, so I bought new.
|
#
?
May 2, 2010 16:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 09:30 |
|
|
Ericadia posted:I'm going to bunker down and save my money until the right compressor shows up. I own the one you were considering and you are making the right choice. I bought that compressor at a Sears outlet for $250 and sold my old similar sized oil-less compressor on CL for $150. So the net of $100 out of pocket made it a great compressor for me simply because of the noise factor. The oiled compressor you can't even hear in the house, which makes my wife happy too, she hated the old oil-less compressor as much as I did. If I am ever buying a compressor again with the intention of using for anything productive, it will be a gigantic 60 or 80 gallon model.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2010 17:01
|
|
|
Ericadia posted:All the verticals have looked like poo poo or have been way too expensive. Look like poo poo doesn't always mean bad. If it's cheap enough, and you don't mind doing repairs, it might still be worth while. Get the model# and see what the original specs were, call the mfg and find out what replacement parts are available. Some companies carry everything, down to replacement connecting rods, for all of their pumps going back 20-30 years. The only real killers are if the tank is dented or massively rusted, everything else can be replaced.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2010 18:09
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Look like poo poo doesn't always mean bad. If it's cheap enough, and you don't mind doing repairs, it might still be worth while. Get the model# and see what the original specs were, call the mfg and find out what replacement parts are available. Some companies carry everything, down to replacement connecting rods, for all of their pumps going back 20-30 years. The only real killers are if the tank is dented or massively rusted, everything else can be replaced. I bought a 60gal 5 horse Ingersoll Rand with a t30 pump on it. 14.7cfm @ 175psi. Not terrible in the noise department, and laughs at air tools. The pump head is rebuild-able. I picked it up for 600 bucks on craigslist, it was 70 miles out of town... nobody was willing to drive to look at it. I lucked out with a great deal, but the same compressor with a 5/7.5 3phase motor shows up all the time on craigslist. Talk yourself a deal and then buy a 5 horse single phase. Easy swap, for a hell of a compressor. They are out there, don't be in a hurry to buy one, and always have cash. I had been seriously looking for a compressor for about a month when I got this one. When you go look fire it up, and watch it build pressure. Listen for unhappy noises. Drain the tank, see if the water comes out rusty. Research a little to see how much it costs to rebuild anything that may need it. and then make a reasonable offer to the guy. Also, I see 60-80 gal vert tanks without motor/pumps on the list all the time. under 200 bucks usually.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2010 20:06
|
|
|
Is there a recommendation for high quality electrical tape? Generally, need to use it for wrapping wiring harnesses, plus other odds and ends.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2010 18:47
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Is there a recommendation for high quality electrical tape? Generally, need to use it for wrapping wiring harnesses, plus other odds and ends. Whenever I can't use heatShrink, I use 3M tape, and if it's bundling together a bunch of harneses, I use something like Silicon tape [Brand Rescue tape]. That silicon stuff is neat since you can use it to fix hydraulic leaks and coolant leaks in some cases since it can withstand high temperatures and pressures.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2010 19:23
|
|
|
Whatever electrical tape is UL listed. UL listed electrical tape wont catch fire.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2010 20:54
|
|
|
Black chrome tools suck in a production environment because they don't stand out and are more easily left in cars. I got a HF ball joint popper and it is pretty awesome. The HF aluminum jack is pretty awesome. I like 3M electrical tape because it doesn't get all gummy and gross. Also, it is easy to get unstuck from the roll when you need a new piece.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2010 02:57
|
|
|
Its also UL listed and available locally.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2010 03:22
|
|
|
And when you remove the tape later on you know right where to apply new tape because it leaves black sticky residue for your convenience.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2010 04:37
|
|
|
I figure this is as good a place as any to ask. Just curious, not having problems just always wondered this. How does a portable gas generator, old-fashioned non-inverter style maintain 3600 rpm? I've never had one apart but I can see a little tie-rod looking thing open the throttle up if I plug in a heater or something high wattage. Is there like active electronics and solenoid or servo or something in there managing that? Surely it's something simpler than that, but how? The carb looks like a normal lawnmower/gokart type with that little tie-rod going between it and some box, what's in the box? what's in the box? It seems like it doesn't even miss one 3600 rpm beat if you switch on a heater or something. The exhaust note changes from more throttle but it amazes me and makes me wonder how it can be that good. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 21:55 on May 14, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 21:45
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:I figure this is as good a place as any to ask.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 21:53
|
|
|
quote:The governor usually consists of a gear and fly weights pushing against a spindle and shaft. Awesome. I guess it's almost like the spinny-ball governor thing that turns on the emergency brakes on a falling elevator. I hate it when I'm wondering about something and can't figure out what to type into google, you guys are speedy.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 22:05
|
|
|
My neighbor just threw out her cheating husband and announced she was giving all of his poo poo away. I scored 3 rubbermaid bins full of random stuff, haven't even had time to look through it yet.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 22:11
|
|
|
So I need to do a compression test on my motorcycle in the near future. Any recommendations on what to buy? I see this at Harbor Freight, but it only comes with 14 mm and 18 mm adapters. I need a 12 mm. Alternately, is this something I'd be able to rent from an auto parts store?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 07:28
|
|
|
Uthor posted:So I need to do a compression test on my motorcycle in the near future. Any recommendations on what to buy? I see this at Harbor Freight, but it only comes with 14 mm and 18 mm adapters. I need a 12 mm. Autozone rents them but it's a nice tool to own. I think the AZ only has 2 size fittings though, same as the HF one. I don't think they rent this one out but it has 12mm http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...randName=Actron
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 07:37
|
|
|
A compression tester is a pretty good tool to have around. I have this set: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947089000P MightyVac has an identical kit for about the same price: http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-5530-Professional-Compression-Tester/dp/B0002WSC0G
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 07:48
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Autozone rents them but it's a nice tool to own. I think the AZ only has 2 size fittings though, same as the HF one. $40 ain't bad. I looked at Bike Bandit because I was there for other things and they only had a $100 set, so I was worried it'd be that much.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 08:13
|
|
|
Ericadia posted:A compression tester is a pretty good tool to have around. I bought that MightyVac one a couple months ago, lots of adapters and very easy to use.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 14:18
|
|
|
I've got the craftsman compression kit as well, it's pretty nice even compared to the OTC one we have at school. Rubber cover on the gauge itself, which protects it if you drop it, and makes it easy to wedge somewhere so you can see it while cranking the car. Looks like the Mityvac one is probably made by the same manufacturer, just with a different name stamped on it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 16:45
|
|
|
I bought a Harbor Freight AC Manifold Gauge Set yesterday. When I needed one previously I paid the $100 deposit to borrow one from Autozone. The AZ Loan-A-Tool gauge set had a fitting on the end of the yellow hose to puncture a new can of refrigerant. The HF set does not. Was that supposed to be included or is that something I need to go buy separately?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 16:54
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I bought a Harbor Freight AC Manifold Gauge Set yesterday. When I needed one previously I paid the $100 deposit to borrow one from Autozone. How would you fill it if the hose doesn't have the puncture thing built in? It's not like you can just puncture the can and then screw it on. My guess is that it should have it. Swing back by there and see if the others have it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 20:51
|
|
|
Mine didnt have one you need to buy one. Dont buy the one that Advanced Auto sells. Mine wouldnt seal worth poo poo. Very frustrating.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2010 23:43
|
|
|
I'm looking for a low-profile transmission jack, and hoping to spend around $200 max. I'm looking for one with a starting platform height as low as possible (the ones I've seen so far seem to be about 5" - 7"), and at least 1200lb capacity. I'm probably going to end up dropping the huge slushbox in the BMW with it, so I'd like a lot of reserve capacity. I've found one that fits the bill here, but after I ordered it, they sent me an email saying that it was backordered until appx June 8. I'd rather not wait nearly a month to get it. I've found a couple others online that have come close, but rejected them for different reasons - this one sits too high and isn't as heavy-duty as I'd like, and this one is a bit more than I wanted to spend and heavy as poo poo (145 lbs). I have since looked (online) at Harbor Freight, Sears, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance, Northern Tool, Amazon, Ace, Ebay, and Craigslist with nothing comparable coming up at that price point. HF had one in their catalog for $180 that would have worked (item #91020), but seem to have deleted it from their site.  Right now I'm leaning towards either getting the heavy rear end HF one, or waiting out the first one I posted. Are there any other tool retailers I'm missing that might have something like this?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2010 07:46
|
|
|
Does anyone have a Creader harbor freight code reader? they're probably discontinued and replaced with something better by now, I bought mine about 3 years ago. It shows some weird codes every once in a while and I don't know WTF. I have a constant check engine light due to removing some stuff from my truck so I plug in this thing every once in a while looking for new codes. Sometimes it will give me the 2 codes I expect and then it says: 8407 Ed01 7400 It doesn't display a P or B before anything just the #s, (not displaying the letter is normal operation, I think this thing is supposed to only display the # for P codes) but alldata doesn't show any P or B, C, U or other codes anything like those 3. Another weird thing is if I unplug it and plug it back in those 3 mystery codes aren't there anymore, just my 2 normal codes. It should not have cleared those out because a. it didn't clear my 2 normal ones (these would take half a day to come back after being cleared) and b. it doesn't have a button or anything to clear codes, to clear codes with this you have to leave it plugged in for about 5 minutes and after it displays each code 20 times it will have cleared them. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 19:51
|
|
|
oops double post
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 19:51
|
|
|
I bought the Harbor Freight 1/2" corded impact wrench: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html And it is absolutely useless. It couldn't break free the bolts for my rear struts, and it couldn't loosen the bolts on my exhaust, even after copious amounts of PB blaster so I'm going to try and take it back. I found it was easier just to use my breaker bar and some elbow grease. Am I using it wrong? I think a wiser financial decision would be to just save up and buy an air compressor and assorted air tools.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 21:16
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:How would you fill it if the hose doesn't have the puncture thing built in? It's not like you can just puncture the can and then screw it on. My guess is that it should have it. Swing back by there and see if the others have it. The manifold sets are meant to be used with the big 30# cans of refrigerant like dealers use.  If you want to be able to puncture the cans you probably need some sort of adapter.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2010 22:00
|
|
|
Have you guys seen the new Snap-On 17mm? But seriously, since we've had some crimp tool talk, anyone know of a decent crimper for Tyco/AMP connectors that won't break my balls in price? Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 00:25
|
|
Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
|
Do you mean a regular pin and socket connector and you need to crimp the contacts? What wire barrel sizes?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 00:30
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:Have you guys seen the new Snap-On 17mm? More like Snap-Off 
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 00:32
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:Do you mean a regular pin and socket connector and you need to crimp the contacts? What wire barrel sizes? 20-16 awg
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 02:29
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:More like Snap-Off I think his problem was that he was using a 7mm.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 03:17
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:20-16 awg This is going to sound like I'm pushing the company I work for but really I'm not. I have no good incentive to do so and Google can back up what I am saying below. If you have the contact part numbers I can look up in our xref whether we have a turret head with those positioners in them. You can probably get away with using a universal head for way cheaper though. Ive seen Daniels/DMC AF8s used on eBay go for like $35 shipped. Watch it a bit. That's a retardedly good deal as the tool frame alone is $243 new and unless they beat the poo poo out of it crimping stainless steel no way they used it past its life cycle. The Daniels AF8 is an M22520/1-01. There are two companies qualified to make that tool: DMC and Astro. either are quality tools but the Astro makes use of a pretty different frame and though both are functionally equivalent the DMC AF8 is better to use. You need turrets for either tool, and they are interchangeable. I.E. an Astro head will fit the AF8 and vise versa. They have universal heads for them, DMC part number UH2-5 and milspec number M22520/1-05.  The thing on the right with the knurled knob is the universal head. You use the screw to set the height of the contact and then the wire gauge sizes are on the knob. Heres what you need for pretty drat cheap on buy it now. Watching auctions you can probably save another good $20. DMC M22520/1-01 Tool frame: http://cgi.ebay.com/DMC-DANIELS-AF8...=item2a073c7226 Astro M22520/1-05 Universal head: http://cgi.ebay.com/ASTRO-TOOL-CORP...=item5631a75da1
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 04:01
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:I think his problem was that he was using a 7mm. *17*mm, it broke where the "1" was stamped in
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 06:08
|
|
|
Crosspost from the BMW thread: Well, I was finally going to replace my diff fluid last night, only to find out my 14mm hex socket is *way* too long to fit between the spare tire well and the fill plug. Anybody know where I can get a cheap 14mm allen key? I know Sears has one, but it's like $18 just for the one. I didn't see anything on Harbor Freight's website.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 14:46
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:I am assuming youre not doing a good number of these or youre doing a variety. I am suggesting the cheapest option. There's probably better options. This will get you 4-indent crimping with milspec tools for ~$120 though. The best option for value if youre doing a good number of similar contacts is a new frame bought on eBay then having us putting the positioner(s) you need into a proper head. We may already have the positioners developed and its just a matter of sticking them in a head for you. this is good stuff, I'm using pin 171662-5
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 17:02
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:this is good stuff, I'm using pin 171662-5 IIf youre just using one contact you can use a TP head that just has one positioner and is much cheaper. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 21:41 on May 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 17:33
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Crosspost from the BMW thread: They weren't the whole L-shaped allen wrenches, just a set of socket-like tools that fit onto a 1/2" drive ratchet or impact gun or whatever.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 18:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 09:30 |
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I bought a set of allen (hexagon) "sockets" at HF. It included 14mm, which was the size I needed to separate the spindle from the backing plate on my 1995 Lexus SC400. I bought a set at autozone that were this, but the problem is for whatever reason they're like three inches long. I can't get the socket itself where I need to, let alone the socket and a ratchet. I'd love to grind it down but I don't have the means.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2010 18:16
|
|