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Tentacle Party posted:You know you want to freehand those, don't you. Unlike you, I suck at freehand. Check out the "TERRA" on that model I just posted. Apparently my chapter employs 4-year old scribes. Speaking of Terra, I was thinking Praetors of Terra for the chapter name (trying to go for a real Roman theme here). Vinco Prognatus for the Chapter Master?
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May 19, 2010 03:04
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crime fighting hog posted:Oh I bought some sythetic brushes. And I don't have any winsor ones yet. Atlas 4 lyfe. Oh my God I also forgot to tell you don't lick your brushes at all! Oh dear lord I'm afraid I'm too late! 
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May 19, 2010 03:40
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Are we talking about water soluble oils? or actual oil paint
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May 19, 2010 03:41
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Sole.Sushi posted:Oh my God I also forgot to tell you don't lick your brushes at all! Oh dear lord I'm afraid I'm too late! I never do that, actually. Also the red to orange looks like poo poo. I'm going to need a lot of practice at this. I'm probably using WAY too much paint.
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May 19, 2010 03:42
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PaintVagrant posted:Are we talking about water soluble oils? or actual oil paint water soluble winsor and newton artisan colour
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May 19, 2010 03:42
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Don't bother freehanding SM logos unless you're only doing one squad or you do that poo poo professionally. I picked up the Testor's decal system, which basically lets you print your own decals onto special paper. I haven't been able to try it out yet (I'm doing Relictors) because you need an ink jet printer and I haven't dug mine out of storage. I'm pretty sure you can get away with just buying the special paper and using future clear acrylic. Still, it's only  . I anticipate having to do some touch-up work, but it's better than trying to freehand logos.
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May 19, 2010 03:42
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moths posted:Don't bother freehanding SM logos unless you're only doing one squad or you do that poo poo professionally. Thanks. I might do some freehand on larger areas (banner), but yeah, gently caress doing it to the 25-odd models I have so far.
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May 19, 2010 04:12
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Aranan posted:Oh. I don't know, then. enri posted:I have a spare pot of P3's skorne red (the very same one PV pimps to us, it's seriously lush) because I got an extra free when I ordered a pot from the internets ages back. Let me know your address and I'll pop it in the post as soon as poss for you. I have nothing against P3, just my 2 local stores don't carry it & I need something quickly. Also, airbrushed a single coat of 'red' over black for my Vindicators, got great coverage.  No Brass recommendations? IS GW's Dwarf bronze any good? I've used Boltgun/mud/mithril/sepia before but it doesn't have the 'depth?' I'm looking for.
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May 19, 2010 06:06
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Cakefool posted:No Brass recommendations? IS GW's Dwarf bronze any good? I've used Boltgun/mud/mithril/sepia before but it doesn't have the 'depth?' I'm looking for. I've found Dwarf Bronze to be pretty nice and shiny, though I've only used it once so far painting the gold on my Farseer.
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May 19, 2010 06:09
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bhsman posted:I've found Dwarf Bronze to be pretty nice and shiny, though I've only used it once so far painting the gold on my Farseer. it needs 2 coats if you are painting broad surfaces, but the end result is worth it imo. one coat looks like rear end though.
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May 19, 2010 06:14
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Since I've started painting Warhammer stuff, I've been painting the miniature after putting it together. I'm starting to get tired of all the hard to reach areas and want to try my hand at painting before assembly. What's the best way to go about doing this? I've seen pictures of people's works in progress with the heads, torsos, etc on sticks. Is some kind of putty being used there? Also, is it better to paint vehicles like Drop Pods in separate components, then assemble? Or assemble first, then paint?
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May 19, 2010 14:44
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Cakefool posted:No Brass recommendations? IS GW's Dwarf bronze any good? I've used Boltgun/mud/mithril/sepia before but it doesn't have the 'depth?' I'm looking for. GW Tin Bitz -> GW Brazen Brass -> Green/Brown/Black 1:1:1 wash -> Brazen Brass/Chainmail 1:1 highlight
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May 19, 2010 14:52
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Mutant Headcrab posted:Since I've started painting Warhammer stuff, I've been painting the miniature after putting it together. I'm starting to get tired of all the hard to reach areas and want to try my hand at painting before assembly. What's the best way to go about doing this? I've seen pictures of people's works in progress with the heads, torsos, etc on sticks. Is some kind of putty being used there? Some people drill a hole in like the bottom of the head and put a stick in, some people just blutac the parts onto the end of the stick, some people glue them to sprues and cut them off later. Pretty much anything works there's no super secret  Drop Pods you want to paint first. I'm (slowly) working on one, what I did is I assembled the 5 flaps, left the bottom pentagon base off the top base, and glued all the gribblies and the "walls" onto the top base. Now I just have to paint it and glue the bottom to the top, with the flaps in, obv. Alternatively you can just glue the flaps shut, which saves you a lot of assembly time as well since you don't have to assemble the inside. Most other vehicles you will want to assemble first, especially since you might (read: probably will) need to fill gaps between plates and such.
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May 19, 2010 15:02
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Mutant Headcrab posted:Since I've started painting Warhammer stuff, I've been painting the miniature after putting it together. I'm starting to get tired of all the hard to reach areas and want to try my hand at painting before assembly. What's the best way to go about doing this? I've seen pictures of people's works in progress with the heads, torsos, etc on sticks. Is some kind of putty being used there? Phyresis has pretty much covered but I thought I'd weigh in, I use a combination of blu-tac (the same stuff you use for putting posters up with, semi-sticky maliable putty basically) OR if the join is going to be hidden once the piece is assembled, then I'll glue it instead. Makes life much easier plus it helps me avoid using models before they're painted purely because I'm not going to assemble them until they're painted 
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May 19, 2010 15:06
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Anyone interested in scans of an ancient 80s Spess Mareen painting guide? Its the one from the RT Space Marine paint set. I hope this doesn't count as 
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May 19, 2010 15:07
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Vondizimo posted:Anyone interested in scans of an ancient 80s Spess Mareen painting guide? Its the one from the RT Space Marine paint set. I'd be interested I love all that old stuff.
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May 19, 2010 17:25
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All right: so this is the wash recipe from AwesomePaintJob.com: 1/10/11 Flo-Aid/Distilled Water/Matte Medium. Add some FW ink to this base, and it's that simple. Having said this, I've gotten around to making two of the inks presented on his website, and a new one of my own. First up: Sepia. Take the base and add FW Sepia ink (duh) to it. Generally, you want 20 drops per ounce of base. The color is nothing like the Sepia wash that GW makes. It's more of a burnt sienna wash than a sepia wash. Still, it's useful in the tests I've done, working a lot like Devlan Mud. Second: Hard Body Black. At first, this stuff was soft body black, but after testing that, I realized that it was pretty much equal to the GW Badab Black. So, again, it goes 20 drops to an ounce. It's a really freakin' rich black. Third: my own little attempt to make a true red wash. I failed. Miserably. However, the pink wash I ended up with goes over pure white to make a rather credible substitute for actual pink paint. Looks kind of like Pepto. Don't know what I'll do with it, but the tyranid test model I put it on had a really rich pink color. 30 drops to an ounce for that one. I tried a smaller batch to see how many drops of ink it would take to make a pure red wash. 1 tablespoon of base and 100 drops of red ink later, it was still pink. I gave up at this point.  I'll try some different inks as I get my hands on them. Next up (I think), white ink. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know and I'll test them out for you.
Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 04:44 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 04:42
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red pigments do not take thinning very well, you might have better luck with other colors
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May 20, 2010 05:04
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I tried doing up a batch of the soft body black and it came out very frothy and didn't settle right into the cracks. I sorta eyeballed the volumes, though. 
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May 20, 2010 05:07
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PaintVagrant posted:red pigments do not take thinning very well, you might have better luck with other colors Wouldn't be a freaking problem if matte medium was clear instead of white. I'm likely going to add red to other colors to get interesting hues. Thinking I'll need to add some to orange ink to make orange wash more orange.
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May 20, 2010 05:29
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Fix posted:I tried doing up a batch of the soft body black and it came out very frothy and didn't settle right into the cracks. I sorta eyeballed the volumes, though. I had the same problem. The black wash I made turned into wrinkles despite resting on a flat surface with no wind. It didn't look bad on the boltgun, but I'll try better next time.
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May 20, 2010 05:35
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crime fighting hog posted:I had the same problem. The black wash I made turned into wrinkles despite resting on a flat surface with no wind. It didn't look bad on the boltgun, but I'll try better next time. Admittedly, it doesn't look quite the same, but I didn't really have a foaming issue. Strange.
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May 20, 2010 05:37
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I've been playing with Les' wash recipe as well. I've make a medium black, an ork black/green wash and the best is my rust wash. The rust wash is just red, burnt umber and burnt sienna inks. It works great. I don't have foaming issues but the stuff does separate in the bottle and I need to shake it like mad to get it remixed every time I want to use it.
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May 20, 2010 13:05
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Hey PV, any way you could carry Coat D'Arms ink? Aren't they substantially the same as the old Citadel inks?
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May 20, 2010 15:08
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Ill look into it. FYI the p3 inks are very similar to old GW inks, super pigmented and they flow like water.
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May 20, 2010 15:12
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No love for VGC inks here? I love 'em but jesus making GBS threads christ do they need watering down out of the bottle, so so heavily pigmented.
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May 20, 2010 15:19
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While on the topic of inks. This is a totally out there question that just popped into my head but has anyone tried to use generic food colouring as a type of wash? poo poo flows like water and stains anything it touches. just might not come in many useful colours?
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May 20, 2010 15:42
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Food coloring isn't really very inexpensive, and the colour is probably going to degrade pretty quickly.
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May 20, 2010 16:12
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On the plus side, though, your minis will be at least 30% more lickable.
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May 20, 2010 17:55
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That's like, 85% lickable!
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May 20, 2010 18:43
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 I too have a Terran fleet, and haven't started my battleship yet, but I want an effect very, very similar to this. My color scheme is a mainly white battleship, with forest and jade green highlights. How do I do that? I've watched tons of YouTubes, and they aren't that helpful.
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May 20, 2010 19:17
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It looks like it was basecoated with a medium gray color, gave it a black wash, then drybrushed with an off white, probably a bone color. He then went back and picked out the orange and metal bits.
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May 20, 2010 19:22
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If you didnt want to use washes, you could prime it black, then give it 3 heavy drybrushes of dark grey, med grey, then white or a very light grey
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May 20, 2010 21:04
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Hey guys, what do you all think of my thunderhead? I've posted it a couple times... I think it looks good just could use a bit of work on making the panels pop more.
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May 20, 2010 21:11
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Jarofmoldymayo posted:Hey guys, what do you all think of my thunderhead? Paint looks a little thick, and could use a touch more depth on the hands / other recesses, and then some fine highlighting. But overall it's pretty decent. Also painting your ballast and adding some static grass would make the model stand out against the base.
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May 20, 2010 21:14
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dpack_1 posted:Paint looks a little thick, and could use a touch more depth on the hands / other recesses, and then some fine highlighting. But overall it's pretty decent. Cool thanks  Pretty much exactly what I was thinking. It's one of my better early models... That is why the paint is thick especially the metal. How about this guy? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Uriel_1018/DSCF0001.jpg I have since hit them with a matte varnish, they aren't so shiny anymore.
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May 20, 2010 21:18
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I like how no matter how much I've improved as a painter, I still can't highlight black power armor to save my life. I'd strip all my templars and paint them in a different splinter chapter color if I didn't like their fluff so much.
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May 21, 2010 02:00
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Sole.Sushi posted:All right: so this is the wash recipe from AwesomePaintJob.com: Don't use drawing ink, use tattoo ink. It's cheaper by volume and almost 100% pigment. Also safer to use for the brush lickers because it's completely non-toxic (I am a brush licker).
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May 21, 2010 02:54
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Indolent Bastard posted:I've been playing with Les' wash recipe as well. I've make a medium black, an ork black/green wash and the best is my rust wash. The rust wash is just red, burnt umber and burnt sienna inks. It works great. I don't have foaming issues but the stuff does separate in the bottle and I need to shake it like mad to get it remixed every time I want to use it. Can you post a drop to ounce ratio?
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May 21, 2010 04:18
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Sole.Sushi posted:Can you post a drop to ounce ratio? Les' base of equal parts matte medium and distilled water with a dash of flow aid. I made half an ounce and added the following Golden brand Fluid Acrylics: 10 drops Pyrrole Red (red) 8 drops Quinacridone/Nickle Azo Gold (medium brown) 6 drops Raw Umber (dark brown) 15 drops Burnt Sienna (light brown) Essentially mix up the base add enough red to make it not pink then add medium and dark brown until it looks like rust. It may take a fair bit of brown to knock down the red, the mix above is about 3 times the amount of various browns to tone down the red.
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May 21, 2010 13:27
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