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RealKyleH posted:IIf youre just using one contact you can use a TP head that just has one positioner and is much cheaper. I have some other weird stuff that a universal would benefit. But for the most part yeah that is the only pin I am using. You don't happen to have any secret crazy inside supply to Tyco connectors do you?
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May 20, 2010 21:55
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:this is good stuff, I'm using pin 171662-5 One more thing, would you need I&R tools or just to crimp the contacts? Whatcha buildin?
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May 20, 2010 21:57
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Valkyn posted:The manifold sets are meant to be used with the big 30# cans of refrigerant like dealers use. Then I can use the awesome UV pen light I bought and track down the leak like a CSI detective.
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May 20, 2010 22:02
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Going back to the socket holder talk I wanted to post these things. They are amazing for keeping sockets compact and easy to reach. We have stacks of them. http://www.google.com/products/cata...ved=0CCAQ8wIwAA
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May 20, 2010 22:37
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RealKyleH posted:One more thing, would you need I&R tools or just to crimp the contacts? Whatcha buildin? Wire harness. My main problem is just finding the drat plastic connectors in low quantities. I've had some luck with the Tyco stuff, but the Sumitomo poo poo I need has been a real tough battle. I don't mind buying 100 or so of each, but when they want over 1000 each its a bit insane. I&R tools? only IR I know of is IngersolRand
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May 20, 2010 22:39
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Wire harness. My main problem is just finding the drat plastic connectors in low quantities. I've had some luck with the Tyco stuff, but the Sumitomo poo poo I need has been a real tough battle. I don't mind buying 100 or so of each, but when they want over 1000 each its a bit insane. Forgot to say: IDK crap about your application or that specific connector/contact. Everything I am saying is pretty general here's how to crimp contacts and what you can use type info. Ill have better info at work. I&R = insertion and removal tools. Basically its typically how you get the contacts in and out of the connectors without damage. As far as availability, you could always go with milspec connectors and contacts (M38999 is what Deutsch' AutoSport connector used in Nascar and f1 is based off of) This catalog should have some helpful info: http://www.dmctools.com/_pdf/Catalogs/ConnectorToolingGuide.pdf
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May 20, 2010 23:07
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Ah yeah I&R tools would be great. I've worked with Deutsch connectors when I wired up sand rails. Really good stuff and we only got to use them on the show cars because it was expensive stuff. I really wish I could just switch everything over to different connectors but these connectors plug directly into the sensors. =( I've been slowly sourcing parts for a year now, but it seems a few connectors will have to be reused. I'd like to start selling mill spec harnesses for the RX-7 but it seems I'll have to get a "core" harness from a customer to re-use a few connectors. I've got MS wire coming in and I've been eyeballing the aircraft connectors with 60+ pins to mount to the firewall. I've been debating Raychem heatshrink but I think that is a bit overkill.
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May 20, 2010 23:44
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Ah yeah I&R tools would be great. You wont be disappointed with Milspec wire. Its far safer to use than bargain basement and has way way way better tensile values in tests I've done. Call DMC between 8-4:30 tomorrow and see if we have something for that connector. If we do awesome, if not you may be able to use the universal head. Post up a pic of the contact if you can. Just searching Mil Spec or D38999 on eBay in connectors turns up a ton of surplus lots http://business.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=mil+spec&_sacat=109438&_odkw=milspec&_osacat=109438&bkBtn=&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313 AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 00:37 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 00:23
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Wire harness. My main problem is just finding the drat plastic connectors in low quantities. I've had some luck with the Tyco stuff, but the Sumitomo poo poo I need has been a real tough battle. I don't mind buying 100 or so of each, but when they want over 1000 each its a bit insane. These guys may have the connectors you are looking for. I got some to match my early style mazda connectors: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=2ml83jvg1enu517e8dh4d3d272
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May 21, 2010 00:57
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CornHolio posted:I bought a set at autozone that were this, but the problem is for whatever reason they're like three inches long. I can't get the socket itself where I need to, let alone the socket and a ratchet. Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html and a cut-off wheel.
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May 21, 2010 02:16
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eddiewalker posted:Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy this: I bought my blue one from there for $10
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May 21, 2010 03:03
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Sgt Fox posted:These guys may have the connectors you are looking for. I got some to match my early style mazda connectors: I've bought some of the old style stuff from beaver before, and bmo doesn't have what I need. I've been all over the internet, made phone calls, all I keep getting is the ol' thousands qty minimum order, and that is if they even want to work with an end user, most of these people want to talk to a business. How do these places expect to move these boxes of dated connector housings? Anyway here is the pin I will be working with, will that tool work with a non barrel? 
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May 21, 2010 03:41
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haha when they say business name I have a fake business I give them. Also, I dont think so, that is not what I was talking about. I was talking about round pin and socket type connectors. You prob dont want an AF8 for that. Ill ask about those and see what to suggest. Again though if you call tomorrow someone can help you first thing and simply look the PN up in a database. If We dont have it we can certainly make it.
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 03:56
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I've bought some of the old style stuff from beaver before, and bmo doesn't have what I need. I've been all over the internet, made phone calls, all I keep getting is the ol' thousands qty minimum order, and that is if they even want to work with an end user, most of these people want to talk to a business. How do these places expect to move these boxes of dated connector housings? Digikey, Newark, Electrosonic, Mouser were all companies I used to get parts from for work. They may have something as most carry TYCO/AMP stuff.
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May 21, 2010 06:14
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Just checked my system and didnt see anything but that doesnt mean one doesnt exist. Try calling in and see if sales can get you more info. Then check eBay for whatever tool frame. It is a 4 indent crimp tool, it is meant to crimp contacts like I was talking about earlier. You would need an "F" crimp for stamped and formed contacts which we dont do heavily yet.
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 13:28 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 13:23
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I'm almost certain Wire Design has these as we use AMP/TYCP connectors regularly and we buy harnesses from them. They're local to us, but might be worth a shot if you have trouble finding them elsewhere. Also, does Harbor Freight sell automotive ramps? My Rhino Ramps are starting to crack pretty badly and I don't really want to DIE so I think I'd better replace them.
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May 21, 2010 13:49
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CornHolio posted:Also, does Harbor Freight sell automotive ramps? My Rhino Ramps are starting to crack pretty badly and I don't really want to DIE so I think I'd better replace them. I think they did at some point but I dont see anything on their site now. Rhino ramps really arent that great though, I usually keep my jack partially under them just in case.
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May 21, 2010 14:29
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RealKyleH posted:I think they did at some point but I dont see anything on their site now. Rhino ramps really arent that great though, I usually keep my jack partially under them just in case. Rhinos have treated me a lot better than cheap metal ramps, at least. The metal ones tend to slide on the garage floor.
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May 21, 2010 15:53
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RealKyleH posted:Just checked my system and didnt see anything but that doesnt mean one doesnt exist. Try calling in and see if sales can get you more info. Then check eBay for whatever tool frame. It is a 4 indent crimp tool, it is meant to crimp contacts like I was talking about earlier. You would need an "F" crimp for stamped and formed contacts which we dont do heavily yet. I just grabbed some "universal" open barrel ratchet crimpers from ebay. I had a $50 dollar ebay gift card so I decided free is good when I'm totally broke. I will definitely look into your barrel crimpers when I've got more cash since I would like to do the firewall plug. CornHolio posted:I'm almost certain Wire Design has these as we use AMP/TYCP connectors regularly and we buy harnesses from them. They're local to us, but might be worth a shot if you have trouble finding them elsewhere. i'll see if they got what I need as far as connector housings, thanks. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 17:04 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 17:02
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eddiewalker posted:Rhinos have treated me a lot better than cheap metal ramps, at least. The metal ones tend to slide on the garage floor. My Rhino ramps slide all over garage floors. I usually only use them outside. I think I'd prefer metal ones for my new set, unless they're significantly more expensive.
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May 21, 2010 17:03
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CornHolio posted:My Rhino ramps slide all over garage floors. I usually only use them outside. I think I'd prefer metal ones for my new set, unless they're significantly more expensive. The Rhino ramp knock-offs I got from WalMart have rubber on the bottom that keeps them from sliding.
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May 21, 2010 17:41
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frozenphil posted:The Rhino ramp knock-offs I got from WalMart have rubber on the bottom that keeps them from sliding. As soon as I get my garaged cleaned out I know what I am buying. Thanks for this.
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May 21, 2010 18:39
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My Rhino ramps have rubber feet, which I siliconed in place to keep them from falling out all the time. Now the ramps don't move at all.
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May 21, 2010 20:03
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My neighbor used to own a local parts store that recently went out of business. He's moving and had a yard sale today: Mostly a combination of SK and and Blackhawk tools with some KAL stuff and a few random cheapo taiwan/china/japan made tools. Got it all for $30. The torque wrench looks pretty bad, but he gave it to me for free so I figured why not.  Click here for the full 1280x848 image. He also gave me this cool deck of playing cards:  Click here for the full 1280x848 image. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. Forgot I set my phone's camera to the low setting.
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May 22, 2010 07:15
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I just noticed my Hot Rod magazine (July '10) has the usual Harbor Freight coupon for 20% off any single item in it and also a coupon to get the 3000lb aluminum racing jack for $59.99 instead of $99. It's valid until like October too. Save a little money on a nice jack. Edit: Oh I guess it's in their online coupons too. Whatever. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 00:05 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 00:02
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Picked up those Walmart ramps. Worked pretty good. They were about $40.
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May 23, 2010 00:17
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I made these ramps with my father-in-law. We used pressure-treated wood though. http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm They work awesome. They are the only ramps I have seen that I can use on my 1995 Lexus SC400 (long nose and coilovers). They are heavy as gently caress though and not very portable unless you have a pickup (I don't). I have used them on wet pavement and they are very resistant to slipping.
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May 23, 2010 12:13
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Got this today for my Birthday from my Wife. http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler187/ 
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May 24, 2010 01:17
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CornHolio posted:Crosspost from the BMW thread: Followup:  Harbor Freight 1/2 drive serp belt tool (which luckily I had lying around) and a sawed-off 14mm allen. Worked like a charm.
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May 25, 2010 01:30
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CornHolio posted:Harbor Freight... and a sawed-off 14mm allen. Cheap tools. Mother of invention. I need a slightly bent wrench to reach that one fender bolt.... *looks at torches and a cheap 14mm wrench*
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May 25, 2010 02:05
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I have a Millermatic 145 and I'm thinking about buying the Aluminum MIG attachment. Any of you guys bought/used it? I'm curious how good the weld quality is with it. All of the professional welders I know hate it and claim TIG to be the only way to weld Aluminum, but they also spend their days using TIG welders.
FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 05:54 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 05:37
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Has anyone tried this powder coating setup? I'd love to use it to refinish some little brackets and stuff but I wanted to make sure it's not a total piece of crap if anyone knows.
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May 26, 2010 06:51
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FormulaXFD posted:I have a Millermatic 145 and I'm thinking about buying the Aluminum MIG attachment. Any of you guys bought/used it? I'm curious how good the weld quality is with it. All of the professional welders I know hate it and claim TIG to be the only way to weld Aluminum, but they also spend their days using TIG welders. MIG can weld aluminum just fine if you use a spool gun, the right wire for the job, and set the machine correctly. Just keep in mind that when using MIG to weld aluminum you're going to get a fatass bead. There's just no way around it. Top is TIG, bottom is MIG. 
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May 26, 2010 15:47
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Looks fine to me. The Spoolmate100 would be the add-on gun for it. Just comes down to $300 for the spoolgun, or drop the extra $900 and have a TIG. All I've ever done is MIG work so I would be starting from scratch if I went the TIG route.
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May 26, 2010 16:26
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FormulaXFD posted:Looks fine to me. The Spoolmate100 would be the add-on gun for it. Just comes down to $300 for the spoolgun, or drop the extra $900 and have a TIG. All I've ever done is MIG work so I would be starting from scratch if I went the TIG route. TIG welding is a great skill to have, but you need to ask yourself if you are going to use it enough to justify the cost of buying a machine solely for TIG welding. Keep in mind that the right wire is critical to laying down a good bead with a spoolgun. I'd wager that most people that have tried welding aluminum with a MIG and spoolgun and had problems have used the wrong type of wire.
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May 26, 2010 16:45
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FormulaXFD posted:I would be starting from scratch if I went the TIG route. 
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May 26, 2010 21:01
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InitialDave posted:haha I totally missed that, good joke even if unintentional
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May 26, 2010 21:15
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FormulaXFD posted:I have a Millermatic 145 and I'm thinking about buying the Aluminum MIG attachment. Any of you guys bought/used it? I'm curious how good the weld quality is with it. All of the professional welders I know hate it and claim TIG to be the only way to weld Aluminum, but they also spend their days using TIG welders. Keep in mind that you have to switch the whole kit over to use the spoolgun. Everything below the Millermatic 212 (?) only has one in/out, so you need to switch gas, pull the MIG wire, connect the spool gun, etc (or so I was told). That is major incentive to go with a dedicated TIG setup, or get a 212 for $$$.
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May 27, 2010 03:48
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RealKyleH posted:SNIP: BUY THIS CRIMPER So I took your advice and picked up one of these on eBay, but I haven't bought the turret yet. Most crimpers that I've used have been the cheapo $1 HF kind, so forgive the stupid question but what kind of terminals can I use with this crimper? I'm assuming that I can use regular terminals like this, but I'm not sure. 
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May 27, 2010 05:44
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Probably should have read my advice better, as that tool is to do 4-indent crimping on contacts. (Google M39029 contacts for examples of milspec contacts, and M38999 connector for the connector I was talking about.) You should also check out my earlier posts in this thread about using cheap terminals and wire (dont do it). I also make tool recommendations for crimping insulated RBY terminals like that though. You can not use that to crimp insulated terminals though. EDIT: If you click ? to view my posts I start talking about HF's insulated terminal crimp tools and the wire testing I did with it on page 7 of them. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 13:38 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 13:32
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