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Awesome. My wording was a bit off, I should have said that I didn't expect the crimper to work with those terminals. Thanks for the advice! EDIT: So I'm a retard and I should have read the thread. Turns out this doesn't do anything near what I thought it would. The good news is it will work better for my intended purpose, so I guess being an idiot works out in the end. Thanks again. camino fucked around with this message at 17:12 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 27, 2010 16:41
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hah, oh god. Well what did you pay for it? I might buy it off of you, but I really don't have the need for that tool just yet, just entertaining the thought. edit: oh i see you are keeping it, never mind.
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May 28, 2010 01:35
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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I picked up some 3/8" snap-on wobble bars today. Right after my card got swiped, the guy gave me a flier. I flipped it open to the first page, and the wobble bars were on sale. The salesman cursed and gave me a new receipt with a credit on it. What snap-on tool should I apply the deposit towards? I was thinking screw drivers, but they're five times as expensive as Craftsman. I've got SAE and Metric 6 point combination wrench sets (craftsman), a 6 point metric and 12 point SAE 3/8" socket set (snap-on). Maybe a 6 point SAE set and a fine toothed 3/8" ratchet? Little midget combination wrenches?
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May 28, 2010 03:22
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How much are they, cause man screwdrivers are just one of those thing that having the right size and a head that's not rounded out is the difference between 15 seconds of unscrewing and 30 minutes of being screwed.
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May 28, 2010 04:13
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CatBus posted:Keep in mind that you have to switch the whole kit over to use the spoolgun. Everything below the Millermatic 212 (?) only has one in/out, so you need to switch gas, pull the MIG wire, connect the spool gun, etc (or so I was told). That is major incentive to go with a dedicated TIG setup, or get a 212 for $$$. frozenphil posted:TIG welding is a great skill to have, but you need to ask yourself if you are going to use it enough to justify the cost of buying a machine solely for TIG welding. Keep in mind that the right wire is critical to laying down a good bead with a spoolgun. I'd wager that most people that have tried welding aluminum with a MIG and spoolgun and had problems have used the wrong type of wire. From the shops I know which deal with chassis repair & parts fab, they have TIG, MIG and acetylene welding tools handy. While I know Acetylene, I haven't used it since school a few years ago. Most all of my work has been MIG (scratch making exhausts, manifolds and a few other things) so for all I know I've been taking the Clarkson approach by using the wrong tool for the job. My current 'need' for this stuff is due to a rise in parts I've been knocking out in aluminum (358, 7075 and a bit of 6061), and a few parts coming up that I just can't do on a MIG. This won't be a volume production gig, but it'll probably pay for itself over two years if I go the lower-end TIG route. But as far as I've studied (and that's still got a way to go) TIG looks to be a happy middle ground between a MIG and Acetylene: low spread, fine concentration of heat for making the bead (like a MIG) while having a wider range of workable metals to do the job with external welding rod. I also understand that with the TIG, it would just be a gas and rod change to do stainless, which would probably produce better results than what I've been getting with my MIG.
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May 28, 2010 04:21
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It's hard to do stainless with anything, but TIG is probably your best option. Even still, it's hard to not sugar the backside of the weld unless you purge the air with argon behind your work piece. You have to practice and be very careful with your heat control to get good results.
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May 28, 2010 04:33
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RealKyleH posted:How much are they, cause man screwdrivers are just one of those thing that having the right size and a head that's not rounded out is the difference between 15 seconds of unscrewing and 30 minutes of being screwed. 4 piece hard grip set - 37.95 8 piece hard grip set - 134.95 I think the whole toolkit I assembled as a present this past christmas was under $120.
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May 28, 2010 12:56
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screwdrivers are also the tool that disappears the most. I don't know how many I've bought (20+) but I can only account for about 5 in my toolbox right now.
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May 28, 2010 21:29
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Aeka 2.0 posted:screwdrivers are also the tool that disappears the most. I don't know how many I've bought (20+) but I can only account for about 5 in my toolbox right now. 
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May 28, 2010 22:50
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FWIW I have a few Snap-On screwdrivers and they are much nicer than the Craftsman ones I have. The tips are more precisely machined and have some kind of notches or something that help them grip screws. They might be magnetic too I don't know. I know that I always reach for the tool truck (Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwall) tools in my box first. I only have a few but they are awesome. My Snap-On cordless electric impact gun is by far the most expensive tool I have but it is unbelievably awesome. It cost twice as much as my 30 gallon air compressor. Since I moved into my house eight months ago I haven't even plugged in the compressor.
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May 28, 2010 23:20
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A neat screwdriver/ratchet tool from snap on that I've seen a buddy use is .. I guess is a tap/impact screwdriver. It's in a case as a kit, and you can stick a screwdriver bit into a socket. You tap the opposite end with a hammer and works wonders on seized screws and some bolts. It's essentially a manual impact wrench. It's good for something where you don't want to throw a power tool on and destroy the head of the screw. The guys got it specifically for removing screws and bolts on roll bars and cages on sand rails and stuff. I don't know what it's specifically called otherwise I'd link to it .
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May 29, 2010 00:11
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Impact driver.
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May 29, 2010 00:17
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That's it!
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May 29, 2010 00:37
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Lyesh posted:Impact driver. Harbor Freight for like $8 or something. The PERFECT tool for those damned phillips head screws that hold rotors to hubs.
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May 29, 2010 00:43
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EVERYWHERE 
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Alright. I need a cheap drill. I don't own one. I'm sick of borrowing my dad's 50-year old one (as awesome as it is). The main reason I plan on getting one is so I can use my 3M restoration kit. According to the instructions, I need a drill capable of 1200-1600 RPM. Looking at the cordless ones at Harbor Freight, it seems like to get that kind of speed I need corded. So: Does it really need to spin at that speed? If so, I'll probably get this. Otherwise I suppose I'll get this. (I own one of these but it's only capable of 180 rpm and I'm assuming is totally not suited to the job.) CornHolio fucked around with this message at 01:07 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 01:02
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meatpimp posted:Harbor Freight for like $8 or something. The PERFECT tool for those damned phillips head screws that hold rotors to hubs.
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May 29, 2010 02:00
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PBCrunch posted:FWIW I have a few Snap-On screwdrivers and they are much nicer than the Craftsman ones I have. The tips are more precisely machined and have some kind of notches or something that help them grip screws. They might be magnetic too I don't know. I loving KNOW about 'there is a difference', and there is. The first aircraft I got assigned to had an all Snap-On / Blue-Point toolbox. I didn't think anything of it until the next station, where the spec toolbox was mostly Craftsman. We loving ANNIHILATED the 3/8" ratchet monthly, just from general use, not to mention rapefucking a screwdriver weekly. However, $100 is a LOT of money to spend on something you'll wear out every 5 years if you go cheap.
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May 29, 2010 02:28
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Skyssx posted:We loving ANNIHILATED the 3/8" ratchet monthly, just from general use, not to mention rapefucking a screwdriver weekly. However, $100 is a LOT of money to spend on something you'll wear out every 5 years if you go cheap. After hearing that you've had the same experience, I suddenly feel a lot better about plunking down the $80 for a Snapon 3/8" ratchet. I had been looking at the 5 dead Craftsman 3/8" ratchets I have on my bench and decided it's time to try something better.
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May 29, 2010 03:14
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meatpimp posted:Harbor Freight for like $8 or something. The PERFECT tool for those damned phillips head screws that hold rotors to hubs. I broke every tip in the Harbor Freight impact driver in one day. I have a Matco one (or Mac, maybe) that hasn't broken a tip in years of use.
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May 29, 2010 04:25
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FormulaXFD posted:After hearing that you've had the same experience, I suddenly feel a lot better about plunking down the $80 for a Snapon 3/8" ratchet. I had been looking at the 5 dead Craftsman 3/8" ratchets I have on my bench and decided it's time to try something better. Did you get the dual 80 tooth model? I finally broke down and got a set of the dual 80 ratchets, they're really nice.
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May 29, 2010 04:30
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CornHolio posted:Alright. I need a cheap drill. I don't own one. I'm sick of borrowing my dad's 50-year old one (as awesome as it is). You could just wet sand and then follow up with rubbing compound. Did it on my old Jeep without a drill. Turned out great.
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May 29, 2010 04:55
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CatBus posted:I broke every tip in the Harbor Freight impact driver in one day. I have a Matco one (or Mac, maybe) that hasn't broken a tip in years of use.
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May 29, 2010 05:49
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BigKOfJustice posted:Did you get the dual 80 tooth model? I finally broke down and got a set of the dual 80 ratchets, they're really nice. The F80 is a work of art. Worth every penny.
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May 29, 2010 08:48
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Sgt Fox posted:The F80 is a work of art. Worth every penny. Yeah, the Snap-On 80 tooth ratchets are awesome - I've got a 3/8 long locking flex head and a soft handle 3/8 that never go back in their drawer. If you like the 3/8 80 tooth take a look at the 1/2 drive 80 tooth flex head johnson bar that Snap-On has - I bought it the day it came out on a promo and it's bailed me out so many times. Even better is this 3/8 stubby gearless ratchet I got from Wurth. It's got a zero degree sweep so it's worth it's weight in gold. I kill about one a year but they're lifetime guaranteed.
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May 29, 2010 15:12
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angryhampster posted:You could just wet sand and then follow up with rubbing compound. Did it on my old Jeep without a drill. Turned out great. I've already got the kit (had it for awhile actually, I'm a lazy motherfucker). I've seen awesome results from other people using it.
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May 29, 2010 16:02
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my1999gsr posted:Yeah, the Snap-On 80 tooth ratchets are awesome - I've got a 3/8 long locking flex head and a soft handle 3/8 that never go back in their drawer. If you like the 3/8 80 tooth take a look at the 1/2 drive 80 tooth flex head johnson bar that Snap-On has - I bought it the day it came out on a promo and it's bailed me out so many times. Is there really much to be gained with the soft-handled ratchets? Every ratchet I've owned has been straight up metal which is why I chose the F80. I plan on picking up the T72 next and just build up my tools slowly over time. One thing I thought was kind of interesting is that Snapon has three socket styles: shallow, mid length and deep sockets. I was just used to normal and deep.
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May 29, 2010 19:19
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http://chadstoolbox.com/38drive.aspx I just picked up a Wera Zyklop 3/8 ratchet, haven't had a lot of time with it so far but it is pretty slick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb1PzaDJqUs
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May 29, 2010 22:41
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Mid-wells are like the midget wrench and the stubby screw driver. Rarely used, but sometimes essential.
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May 29, 2010 22:42
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Bogatyr posted:http://chadstoolbox.com/38drive.aspx Wow, that looks pretty awesome. I wonder how well it'd stand up to abuse compared to a standard Snap-on ratchet.
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May 30, 2010 00:53
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CornHolio posted:Alright. I need a cheap drill. I don't own one. I'm sick of borrowing my dad's 50-year old one (as awesome as it is). Anybody have an answer to this?
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May 30, 2010 01:13
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CornHolio posted:Anybody have an answer to this? I'd get a corded drill for this project. Otherwise, you're going to be working for 5 minutes and then waiting 4 hours for the battery to charge. Regarding those two particular drills for other future projects... I wouldn't expect much out of them. The $20 cordless has a clutch that will prevent you from overdriving screws, which is nice. The corded will probably work well as a light-duty drill, but will not be so great at driving screws. (You've got your cordless screwdriver for that, I suppose.) Neither will be up to the task of boring large holes through hardwood, powering hole saws, etc. Keyless chucks like both have are great for light duty. For $15-20, they're not exactly long-term investments; you might as well treat them as throwaways. If it works for you after this project, great, if not, eh. I've gotten my money's worth out of a great many throwaway power tools like this. grover fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 30, 2010 |
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May 30, 2010 01:29
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Dont get any cordless anything from harbor freight. Made that mistake, won't make it again. Couldnt tell you about the corded one but I have a corded Skil of about the same quality I'm sure and I really wish I had a ballsier drill. That said its dont what I needed it to so you can likely get away with that.
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May 30, 2010 01:45
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For those without a local harbor freight, Advance Auto has a 1/2" drive torque wrench on sale for a shade under $28. The receipt indicated "Limited Lifetime Warranty" (10-150ft/lb specs). On sale until the 31st. Yeah yeah, even if I had a prius, it would cost me more in gas to buy the HF one
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May 30, 2010 02:01
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I got the cheapo HF 1/4 Sheet Orbital Hand Sander yesterday. It was actually down to $7.99 at my local store. I don't even want to think about how long the little sheet clamps are going to last, and I cringe every time I turn it on, but it actually works pretty well. Threw some 60 grit on it to sand some MDF and it worked for a good five minutes and didn't start smoking or shatter or anything.
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May 30, 2010 04:56
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grover posted:Regarding those two particular drills for other future projects... I wouldn't expect much out of them. The $20 cordless has a clutch that will prevent you from overdriving screws, which is nice. The corded will probably work well as a light-duty drill, but will not be so great at driving screws. (You've got your cordless screwdriver for that, I suppose.) Neither will be up to the task of boring large holes through hardwood, powering hole saws, etc. Keyless chucks like both have are great for light duty. For $15-20, they're not exactly long-term investments; you might as well treat them as throwaways. If it works for you after this project, great, if not, eh. I've gotten my money's worth out of a great many throwaway power tools like this. drat I was afraid of that. On the plus side I don't really have a lot of heavy-duty things to drill through. I think I'll pick up the cordless drill and hope for the best.
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May 30, 2010 05:10
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CornHolio posted:Otherwise I suppose I'll get this. http://www.harborfreight.com/retail-flyer
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May 30, 2010 14:46
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Do not waste your $15.
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May 30, 2010 14:49
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Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years. I should have known better than to go to Harbor Freight for a $25 set of metric flex ratcheting wrenches. Ended blowing $173 this morning. Ah well, I'm at least now the proud new owner of SAE and metric deep-sockets, a brake bleeder and a pressure washer. And a bunch of other random crap. Ironically, I ran into one of my buddys at Advanced Auto on the way home - buying brake fluid to bleed his brakes today. So, might get used already. Speaking of which: 
grover fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 30, 2010 |
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May 30, 2010 16:30
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I hope you enjoy hand cramps and squishy brakes.
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May 30, 2010 17:10
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oxbrain posted:I hope you enjoy hand cramps and squishy brakes.
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May 30, 2010 18:05
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