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You have to pump the poo poo out of that thing to get any amount of fluid. And if you don't have a good fit on your bleeder screw, you get a lot of little air bubbles. I don't think it's worth it unless you don't have friends and can't get speed bleeders.
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# ? May 30, 2010 18:21 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 00:32 |
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If you have a compressor, get this instead. It works pretty drat good. I did a full fluid change in like 15 minutes because I never had to stop to empty or fill anything.
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# ? May 30, 2010 18:39 |
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The HF here stocks the mityvac pump. I think I got it for ~$20, works awesome. I need a tap for a 1/2" hole. I think that leaves me at 5/8-11, 9/16-12 for usable sizes. Any recommendation on taps/where to buy them? It doesn't look like sears carries anything that big. FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:54 on May 30, 2010 |
# ? May 30, 2010 18:49 |
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FatCow posted:I need a tap for a 1/2" hole. I think that leaves me at 5/8-11, 9/16-12 for usable sizes. Any recommendation on taps/where to buy them? It doesn't look like sears carries anything that big. That doesnt make a lot of sense to me, could you explain a bit more? Also what material? Grainger or MSC are places to buy all kinds of taps. eBay often has USA made taps for cheap.
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# ? May 30, 2010 19:00 |
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RealKyleH posted:That doesnt make a lot of sense to me, could you explain a bit more? Also what material? Grainger or MSC are places to buy all kinds of taps. eBay often has USA made taps for cheap. I stripped out the thread on a welded on bung. So I'm pretty limited in how much more material I can drill out to re-thread, hence the ~1/2" requirement. The material being tapped is steel, it's a shock absorber.
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# ? May 30, 2010 19:16 |
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FatCow posted:I stripped out the thread on a welded on bung. So I'm pretty limited in how much more material I can drill out to re-thread, hence the ~1/2" requirement. The material being tapped is steel, it's a shock absorber. eBay will be the best value if you can afford to wait, Grainger, MSC or McMaster-Carr all may have local stores and/or next day shipping. MSC is typically the cheapest of them. If you want to thread into the steel in the shock, you're probably better off with a course thread in this case 9/16-12. If the steel you're tapping is a harder one AND you can get a decent length of thread engagement a fine thread will be stronger (as I understand it).
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# ? May 30, 2010 20:30 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:You have to pump the poo poo out of that thing to get any amount of fluid. And if you don't have a good fit on your bleeder screw, you get a lot of little air bubbles. I don't think it's worth it unless you don't have friends and can't get speed bleeders. For anyone following my HG repair: I got the driver's side exhaust manifold off with my new favorite tool. Got a stubborn bolt on the EGR valve slowing me down on the passenger side, though. In the meantime, I'm PB Blasting the crap out of everything. Edit2: and all the driver's side head bolts. All but one stinking bracket bolt I somehow missed, and just when I started removing it, it started to rain and I had to pack up quick because the last thing I need is rainwater in my block. grover fucked around with this message at 01:13 on May 31, 2010 |
# ? May 30, 2010 21:28 |
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grover posted:Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years. Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend?
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# ? May 31, 2010 01:09 |
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CornHolio posted:Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend? If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it grover fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 31, 2010 |
# ? May 31, 2010 01:18 |
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grover posted:Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years. Used one of these for years with no issues. At first I also thought they didn't work but it turns out I just wasn't using it right. Apply some grease to the bleeder screws so no air can get sucked around and you will have your brakes bled in no time at all. Just pump a suction with the bleeder closed, then open it slightly and pump occasionally to maintain the suction level.
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# ? May 31, 2010 01:18 |
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grover posted:If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it Hmm. Thing is, I don't really need a heavy-duty drill right now. I just don't want to get something that's complete crap. If the $20 cordless one is crap I suppose I might get the $15 one. But, if there was a much better quality $30 one that would last significantly longer I'd definitely go that route. I don't want to spend much more than that, though. I won't use it enough yet to justify it.
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# ? May 31, 2010 01:56 |
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Read this thread, harbor freight cordless tools suck. I can't think of anyone in this thread who has bought any cordless tool and thought it was worth the money. You can also tread this thread and easily see that I am a fan of harborfreight tools that are good. EDIT: Dont forget a used $30 good drill at a garage sale is often way better than a $30 new drill. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:07 on May 31, 2010 |
# ? May 31, 2010 02:28 |
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CornHolio posted:Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend? http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR250B-8-inch-Storage/dp/B000HI102M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275274154&sr=8-1 I have the older version of this drill and it's been my go to drill for over a decade now.
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# ? May 31, 2010 03:51 |
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RealKyleH posted:Read this thread, harbor freight cordless tools suck. I can't think of anyone in this thread who has bought any cordless tool and thought it was worth the money. You can also tread this thread and easily see that I am a fan of harborfreight tools that are good. I will be the voice of dissonance here, and say that I love my HF 19.2v cordless impact wrench. It isn't lovely at all, and hasn't let me down yet. Of course, it was actually somewhat expensive, and def not one of the $15 throwaway things, so who knows. OP, your best bet is to go to a used tool place and pick up a used corded drill there for cheap. I did this years ago (in the mid '90s), and ended up with a 3/8 Craftsman that works great and is still kicking. I just used it last weekend, in fact.
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# ? May 31, 2010 04:25 |
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Would it be possible for me to have a keyless chuck installed on my old drill? Does such a service exist?
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# ? May 31, 2010 04:32 |
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oxbrain posted:http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR250B-8-inch-Storage/dp/B000HI102M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275274154&sr=8-1 I picked up one of these from Menards a few years ago and it has worked out rather nicely as well. I couldn't tell you anything about what kind of RPMs it turns though. edit: apparently up to 1500 RPM according to the amazon ad. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 04:59 on May 31, 2010 |
# ? May 31, 2010 04:50 |
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oxbrain posted:http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR250B-8-inch-Storage/dp/B000HI102M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275274154&sr=8-1 I think that I like this quite a bit. I'm glad you posted this, I might get this... Black88GTA posted:used tool place ...Unless you tell me more about these used tool places. Seriously, I don't think I've ever seen one around here. Do standard pawn shops have tools?
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# ? May 31, 2010 04:58 |
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So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332691_200332691 or http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200403263_200403263 The first one has what looks like adjustable amperage output, is this something worth the extra price? Also does anyone have any experience with these store brand units, the have Hobarts there as well, but they are quite a bit more expensive.
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# ? May 31, 2010 05:22 |
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Black88GTA posted:I will be the voice of dissonance here, and say that I love my HF 19.2v cordless impact wrench. It isn't lovely at all, and hasn't let me down yet. My Harbor Freight electric impact wrench is a god send. It's the corded one but drat if it isn't one of the best tools I've ever bought.
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# ? May 31, 2010 05:58 |
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Rhyno posted:Would it be possible for me to have a keyless chuck installed on my old drill? Does such a service exist? I'd imagine you could do it yourself pretty easily if you could find a replacement chuck that fits. As far as removing the old one, if it is attached to a tapered spindle you could remove it with a wedge similar to (but thinner than) a ball joint separator. I don't know the exact process for removing a chuck from a threaded spindle (if that's what your drill has), but I doubt it is much more difficult. If you end up doing this, I'd be interested in seeing the results.
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# ? May 31, 2010 07:51 |
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Alright. Slight change of plans. I can get any of the following drills for free using some reward points I've accumulated. Black and Decker cordless Kawasaki corded Black and Decker corded Denali cordless hammer drill without battery (I could pick up a battery and charger too I think) I'm partial to the Kawasaki just because it'll use up almost all of my points (I'm trying to get rid of them). Thoughts? Suggestions? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 19:16 on May 31, 2010 |
# ? May 31, 2010 18:29 |
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Kawasaki
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# ? May 31, 2010 18:42 |
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CornHolio posted:Alright. Slight change of plans. I can get any of the following drills for free using some reward points I've accumulated. That Kawasaki clearly has a cord. And the CH one will depend on how good your compressor setup is.
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# ? May 31, 2010 18:48 |
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Rhyno posted:That Kawasaki clearly has a cord. And the CH one will depend on how good your compressor setup is. do'h. I knew it had a cord. Not sure why I put cordless. And I took the CH one off, I didn't look close enough at it.
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# ? May 31, 2010 19:17 |
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Nosbearatu posted:So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better: I would go with the MIG if you're getting a store brand. You can still use flux core wire until you can get a gas bottle for it. Flux core is pretty messy and burns too hot to weld thin metal on cars easily.
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# ? May 31, 2010 21:09 |
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I need a thin ratchet. One that isn't 1/2"+ thick at the head. Anyone make such a beast? I can grind about 1/8" off the socket to make up for some of the thickness, but it's still not enough. I need it because of this $^$#%@##!%$^@ bolt: My thumb is coming from the only accessible area; there is no access in any other direction to get anything resembling enough torque to break the bolt loose, so open-end wrenches just aren't working. I need to get something that will go up and over the exhaust manifold to allow me leverage, yet not foul the exhaust pipe. gently caress GM, btw. gently caress GM in the rear end until they bleed to death. Anyone know of any super-thin 3/8" ratchets or breaker bars? grover fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jun 2, 2010 |
# ? Jun 2, 2010 00:24 |
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grover posted:I need a thin ratchet. One that isn't 1/2"+ thick at the head. Anyone make such a beast? I can grind about 1/8" off the socket to make up for some of the thickness, but it's still not enough. I need it because of this $^$#%@##!%$^@ bolt: I don't suppose a 1/4" drive would work? if so, I have a little wrench that I got at Home Depot that might fit the bill. It's a reversible ratcheting offset screwdriver / wrench with a 1/4" and a 5/16" end. It came with a 1/4" drive socket attachment that slips in where the bits go (the 5/16" end). The head is about 1cm thick. I can't find it anywhere online (might be NLA? ) but it only cost around $8 IIRC. Husky model #66604. I bought it because I thought that I "might need it someday" and it turned out to be one of the tools I use most. I could post pics if desired.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 00:46 |
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Snap-on makes a 3/8" drive ratchet that is sized like a 1/4" ratchet. I can't imagine it is at all durable.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 00:49 |
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grover posted:
Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 01:01 |
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CornHolio posted:Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me. Black88GTA: My 1/4" craftsman ratchet is about 1/8" thinner than my 3/8, but I don't have a 1/4" 13mm socket, so I haven't been able to try it yet (was my fall-back plan). Frankly, though, given the force I've had to use on some of the other bolts, I'm worried about breaking it. grover fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Jun 2, 2010 |
# ? Jun 2, 2010 01:19 |
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grover posted:Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too. Another option is http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96782.html The swiveling head is compact and comes in very useful.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 01:30 |
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grover posted:Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too. If you have ratcheting wrenches, be sure to buy this while you are there.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 05:28 |
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Ericadia posted:If you have ratcheting wrenches, be sure to buy this while you are there. Too bad they're not metric since that's all my ratcheting wrenches are.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 07:23 |
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http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...51&keycode=0000 Here is a coupon for the belt wrench $9.99.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 16:52 |
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Nosbearatu posted:So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better: Don't spend money on a welder if its name isn't Lincoln, Miller, or possibly Hobart; not if you want to weld with it anyway.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 17:01 |
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Elephanthead posted:http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...51&keycode=0000 And STILL didn't work. The angle of the dangle just didn't quite fit. Close, closest yet, but close just wasn't cutting it. Before I broke out the hammer and anvil to make it fit, I gave it a shot with the crow's foot 13mm that came with the kit and allowed a slightly less impossible angle with my 3/8 ratchet and... WOOHOO!!! broke the motherfucker loose!!!! Managed to work it the rest of the way out with an angled ratchet wrench from an extremely uncomfortable position balanced with my knees on the radiator, chest on a 2x4 spread across the engine bay and forehead on the windshield. And thus ended a 3-day battle with that loving bolt. Did I mention a thunderstorm rolled in and it started raining right as I broke it loose? I wasn't about to stop, though. Now, I'm all set to shove this bolt up the rear end in a top hat of whatever engineer designed that part of the engine bay. I'm an engineer myself- there's no excuse for bad design like this, not for a bolt that requires such force to break loose.
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# ? Jun 2, 2010 23:15 |
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I bought a Skil 7.2-Volt Lithium Ion Power Wrench on Amazon today. The reviews are kind of mixed, but all I want this for is to drive bolts and screws to the point where my ratchet can be used to finish them off so I don't have to waste time turning the fastener by hand to get it finger tight. Also, vice versa. I want to crack bolts with real tools and then use this to get them the rest of the way off. Kind of like an air ratchet but without the air. It looks like it should at least be able to do that much. Why doesn't anyone make a right angle impact gun? I love my Snap-On cordless electric impact gun but it is so big it can't reach a lot of places. Or some kind of gear driven right angle adapter for socket wrenches? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 2, 2010 |
# ? Jun 2, 2010 23:25 |
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Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition. So I'm thinking of buying the snap-on Dual 80 with locking flex head. A bit pricey but I've used one at work and it makes this craftsman feel like a ratchet from harbor freight's reject bin.
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# ? Jun 3, 2010 03:37 |
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Blackdawgg posted:Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition. Do it. I personally don't like the flex heads but the F80 is great.
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# ? Jun 3, 2010 03:55 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 00:32 |
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Blackdawgg posted:Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition. If they hand you a greasy/dirty refurb for a Full Forever Warranty replacement, you should refuse it right away and demand another one, if they say no, ask to speak with a manager (preferably the hardware or store manager). If the manager refuses, call or email customer care (can find the contact info on their website, just click the "customer service" link at the top). There are a lot of ways to make sears bend to your will, they just don't advertise them. If you don't feel like dealing with all the red tape, you could always pop the ratchet open and attack the gear or pawl with a file, put it back together, and then try and return it. You used to be able to buy refurb kits from PartsDirect for mere cents, but it looks like they aren't available online anymore. I wonder if the service centers carry them now..
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# ? Jun 3, 2010 05:13 |