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What's the best website/forum dedicated to ableton and electronic music composition? I'm used to writing things out in full using Sibelius but I want more freedom and control over what I'm doing. e: sorry I thought this was the musician's lounge, there's so many forums these days! :/ Bebop fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Apr 29, 2010 |
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Apr 29, 2010 00:27
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I honestly have no idea where to put this, so I'm trying here: Where would be a good place to make a thread/ask on SA about art schools and programs? My own school has just run me through the ringer and I'm sick to death of it and really interested in transferring (likely out of state), but I'd like some feedback on personal experience with different art schools and design programs.
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Apr 29, 2010 03:32
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http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2563469 This thread seems to be right up your alley...
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Apr 29, 2010 04:16
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I'm new to drawing with tablets. In fact, I've never done it before. However, I do feel the need to get back into drawing as a hobby, so I have decided I'm going to purchase one. I know about Wacom and their track record and prices, but is there any other brand you'd recommend? How about VisTablet? They've got a 12x10 for $99 with a student discount. Adesso has a 10"x6" for $109. Or should I just save up for an Intuos 3/4? I know I've seen it covered before, somewhere... but I can't find it.
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Apr 29, 2010 10:57
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BlueberryMuffins posted:I'm new to drawing with tablets. In fact, I've never done it before. I think Wacom is supposed to have the best pressure sensitive tablets. I have an Intuos 3 I liked, but because when I was working with paper I only ever worked with pencil, I wasn't happy with what I could do with a tablet. I have no skill with color, for example, so whenever I'd be drawing something I'd be relying on really subtle shading that I just couldn't get even with an Intuos. Maybe the new ones you can, or maybe I wasn't calibrating it right, I don't know. I think if you know how to use and take advantage of the graphics program you're using, and especially if you know how to use color, a tablet can be a really great tool.
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Apr 30, 2010 08:42
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pipes! posted:I don't know if I'm preaching to the choir or not, but this is an excellent book for anyone interested in making comics. Yeah, that one's good, but this one actually gets down to the nitty grit: http://www.amazon.com/Making-Comics-Storytelling-Secrets-Graphic/dp/0060780940/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1272691086&sr=1-1
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May 1, 2010 06:19
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NancyPants posted:I think Wacom is supposed to have the best pressure sensitive tablets. I have an Intuos 3 I liked, but because when I was working with paper I only ever worked with pencil, I wasn't happy with what I could do with a tablet. I have no skill with color, for example, so whenever I'd be drawing something I'd be relying on really subtle shading that I just couldn't get even with an Intuos. Maybe the new ones you can, or maybe I wasn't calibrating it right, I don't know. Thanks for the answer. I'm still waiting on a few other financial things to go through, but I think at some point during the summer I will be getting a tablet. I'm pretty well versed in Photoshop and I know my way around Illustrator, so hopefully I can make some sort of magic happen.
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May 1, 2010 22:55
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In a somewhat similar boat, I'll be picking up a new tablet this month (hand me down intuos1 to a 4 hooray!) and I want to get better at utilizing its abilities. I've always been a pencil/paper kind of drawing type, and I'm having immense trouble trying to adapt to the possibilities of a tablet. I'm talking about color or even just grayscale, I see so many amazing drawings with a seperate color layer slapped together to make a finished product and my brain can't think like that. Does CC have any advice or know where I can get started on evolving my ability?
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May 3, 2010 04:07
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Photoshop CS3, 95mb file, and I really don't feel like recreating this bastard. Nevertheless, I can't open the file.quote:Could not complete your request because of a disk error I'm hosed, aren't I? Edit: on a Mac. jackpot fucked around with this message at 19:58 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 19:40
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Anyone happen to know of a good resource for sunglass lenses? Or for plastic/glass lenses that would function just as well, as far as UV resistance? I'm playing around with some sunglass customization/restoration, and was wondering if there was a more precise alternative to buying/cannibalizing other sunglasses.
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May 6, 2010 23:40
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jackpot posted:I'm hosed, aren't I? Probably, but it's worth at least trying to save it.
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May 7, 2010 00:25
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Not really a question, but if anyone sees a process camera about to be pitched, sold really cheap, or otherwise abandoned, get in touch with me. I'm looking for a bigass bellows for a DIY camera project and I'd much prefer a ready-made one over trying to design/build one myself. Don't think I'd need anything else from the camera, I know they're loving huge and heavy.
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May 8, 2010 18:50
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I expected there to be a megathread, but I didn't see one. Someone let me know if there is I might have just overlooked it. I'm going to get my girlfriend a tablet for drawing for her new computer for our anniversary. There's alot to choose from and seem to be geared for different things. I was thinking about the bamboo "fun" tablet, but that just sounds silly. I want something pretty basic but just for what its supposed to do. Drawing. I don't need anything "fun" Im willing to spend up to 150 or a little over if its significantly better than the cheaper one. Something that can work with corel programs pretty well. And basically just like a bare no gimmicks slab for drawing. And not too small like some of them I see. Any recommendations? thanks
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May 9, 2010 18:13
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philkop posted:I expected there to be a megathread, but I didn't see one. Someone let me know if there is I might have just overlooked it.
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May 9, 2010 18:19
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philkop posted:I expected there to be a megathread, but I didn't see one. Someone let me know if there is I might have just overlooked it. I have a Bamboo Fun that I am looking to sell actually. I don't have the mouse or pen holder that comes with it. I never use it, I had bought it for a class where we did very little Photoshop. It has the tablet, the pen, the USB cable and the software. I know it's not the same as buying one brand new with all the pieces. But if you're interested PM me and let me know what you think is a good price. Otherwise I was going to put it up on Craigslist. x-posted from the resource thread: I've decided that I really want to learn about story boarding, because I've heard many a cartoonist/illustrator talk about how they really benefited from a story board class. However, I have used up all my credits and will be student teaching in the fall before I graduate. So I'd like to learn as much as possible this summer. Anyone know any good sites/books/resources, etc that I can teach myself from? anaaki fucked around with this message at 20:06 on May 9, 2010 |
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May 9, 2010 18:41
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anaaki posted:x-posted from the resource thread: A PDF called "Storyboard the Simpsons Way," with advice from none other than Brad Bird. The storyboarding forum on drawingboard.org. A blog, Temple of the Seven Golden Camels, by a professional animator who links to just tons and tons of resources about composition and framing that are useful for storyboarding. Storyboard templates in the major film aspect ratios. And always remember, clarity clarity clarity. Storyboards are communication.
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May 9, 2010 19:33
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Just started messing around with illustrator, and for some reason it doesn't recognize my tablet pen's pressure levels, angle, etc. the way photoshop did for me. A friend of mine mentioned something about preferences and settings but he hasn't gotten back to me. Any ideas?
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May 11, 2010 04:23
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1) Inking with a brush is hard. Is there a certain type of white out to use? I tried just a regular office type (bic?) and it dried pretty bumpy. Do you have to sand it or something? Plus it seemed to resist the ink a bit (waterproof india ink). 1.1) - Also, what's the best BRAND of brush? I always hear "sable #2". I just bought a cheap-o synthetic to practice with, but it seems a bit iffy. 2) Any ideas on an art project involving kids ages 6-10, based on the theme "down on the farm" (ugh).
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May 13, 2010 01:57
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anaaki posted:1) Inking with a brush is hard. Is there a certain type of white out to use? I tried just a regular office type (bic?) and it dried pretty bumpy. Do you have to sand it or something? Plus it seemed to resist the ink a bit (waterproof india ink). If you bought a synthetic then you did NOT buy a sable. Both refer to the types of hairs or bristles in the brush. Natural fibers, such as sable (which is a high-end fiber, being the tail hairs of minx) hold and deposit ink much more smoothly than synthetic (plastic) fibers. Kolinsky sable, which is the very nicest of the Kolinksy siberian weasel tail hairs (no kidding), is the gold standard of sable brushes. They also can go for hundreds of dollars per brush. Buy a natural sable brush. No synthetic. Synthetic is fine for acrylic and oil painting, but with ink, you need natural hair's ability to form a perfect point and deposit ink. [edit] Squirrel hair brushes are a cheap alternative to sable. But whatever you do, stick to a natural as opposed to synthetic.
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May 13, 2010 13:36
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vonnegutt posted:If you bought a synthetic then you did NOT buy a sable. Both refer to the types of hairs or bristles in the brush. Natural fibers, such as sable (which is a high-end fiber, being the tail hairs of minx) hold and deposit ink much more smoothly than synthetic (plastic) fibers. Kolinsky sable, which is the very nicest of the Kolinksy siberian weasel tail hairs (no kidding), is the gold standard of sable brushes. They also can go for hundreds of dollars per brush. Thanks! I grabbed the synthentic because I read it was good to try it out, before spending the money on sable. But when I looked at prices, all the sables were $2-$3 and that didn't seem right. It seemed too inexpensive. And their #2s looked sooo skinny. It just didn't seem right to me. I was at Hobby Lobby though, and I plan on going to the real art store next week. There was a lot of strange animal hairs, squirrel being one, and then another one... Mongoose, maybe? vvv good to know, thanks 
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May 13, 2010 18:05
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anaaki posted:Thanks! I grabbed the synthentic because I read it was good to try it out, before spending the money on sable. But when I looked at prices, all the sables were $2-$3 and that didn't seem right. It seemed too inexpensive. And their #2s looked sooo skinny. It just didn't seem right to me. I was at Hobby Lobby though, and I plan on going to the real art store next week. A cheap sable brush will work just fine. Also, if you think a #2 is skinny then take a look at a 0, or 00. I like to use 18/0 a lot for really fine lines. Also, there are a lot of different tips on brushes. If you're doing general linework or just getting a feel for inking, make sure that the brush is labeled as "round," that's a good general-use brush. "liner" brushes have longer bristles and are for drawing long graceful lines and "spotters" are for tiny details and don't hold much ink.
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May 13, 2010 18:22
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I do comics and my lettering is awful. I only have fixed-width pens that look lame with my handwriting, or brushes that don't lend themselves well to lettering. What do people use for hand-lettering? I need recommendations before I blow limited funds.
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May 14, 2010 17:30
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Typography question. We're recreating a local store front in Maya for my Intro to 3D Modeling class and I'm basically done except for the address and logo on the front. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas to what fonts these might be. None of the standard Windows fonts match either of them. I suppose I could design them myself if need be but I thought I'd try here first. Click here for the full 1800x1350 image.
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May 16, 2010 01:54
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Pibborando San posted:Typography question. We're recreating a local store front in Maya for my Intro to 3D Modeling class and I'm basically done except for the address and logo on the front. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas to what fonts these might be. None of the standard Windows fonts match either of them. I suppose I could design them myself if need be but I thought I'd try here first. Futura will get you close to the "Moule" font. http://new.myfonts.com/search/futura/fonts/ Bodoni will also get you close to the address numbers. http://new.myfonts.com/fonts/adobe/bodoni-1/
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May 17, 2010 00:51
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So, there's suddenly a sale with Corel Painter 11 on sale for about $50 instead of the usual $400, and I thought it may be time to upgrade my art program. However, I don't really know what program I should get, and if Painter 11 is what I want. So up to now, I've been using Paint Shop Pro 5 as my primary art program, since the day it was bought for me off the shelf at Circuit City or something, brand new. I've been using it for miscellaneous drawing, the bundled Animation Shop for creating animations/cartoons, and as a light version of photoshop. Nothing really PROFESSIONAL, but I'd want something that's like a Super-MSPaint, in that it can be simple enough to let me doodle and scribble, but also let me do something bigger and be more powerful in the event that I challenge myself with a bigger pet project such as my Let's Play Metroid II thread, like my avatar. Bonus points for something that also comes bundled with something capable of compiling/editing animations (mostly .gifs). Would Painter 11 be a good transition here? Should I spring on its sale, or should I hold out for something else that's better suited?
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May 18, 2010 19:46
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Fnoigy posted:Would Painter 11 be a good transition here? Should I spring on its sale, or should I hold out for something else that's better suited? I would say hold out for something else. As much as I've loved the Painter programs in the past, I upgraded to Painter 11 and regret it. It's rife with bugs and while I've learned to deal with it somewhat, and there's some work-arounds you can find on the Internet, it still makes for an unpleasant experience.
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May 19, 2010 06:21
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Quick one: I heard an answer for this from The Worst Unicorn a while back, but forgot the trick. I'm doing a handwritten logo for an adoption agency and I'm looking to help clarify the lines I've scanned into photoshop. Currently using photoshop CS4. I remember the process being something like duplicating the layer twice and using a blending mode, then using some obscure hardly-used filter and it made it amazing, I just can't seem to remember it. Elephantgun fucked around with this message at 00:01 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 22, 2010 23:42
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Any books or websites that cover basic scientific illustration? I'm looking to do some simple diagnostics of spider parts;
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May 24, 2010 07:08
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moss piglet posted:Any books or websites that cover basic scientific illustration? I'm looking to do some simple diagnostics of spider parts; An addition to my former question: what WOULD be a good art program, then? Keep in mind, I'll probably be upgrading to Windows 7, so whatever suggestions would have to work there. VVVV Yea, that isn't what I wanted to hear. I really am looking for a Super-MSPaint, like PSP5 was. Last time I used Photoshop, it felt like anything you could do in MSPaint in 1 minute would take 5 in Photoshop, and you'd spend a few hours before learning where everything is to do it, then do a few minutes after of post-processing. Fnoigy fucked around with this message at 05:22 on May 25, 2010 |
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May 25, 2010 02:42
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I know this probably isn't what you want to hear, but Adobe Photoshop is industry standard for just about everything. Heck, you can even make animated GIFs with it.
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May 25, 2010 03:28
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I'm trying to sell art. I've had good success so far, both on here and in real life. What are another couple sites aside from SA that I can sell canvas art on? Is there a thread on how to sell art and custom pieces online? Thanks.
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May 25, 2010 03:31
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Fnoigy posted:Keys are usually a good place to find these, or biodiversity surveys. Well, yes, I'm planning to help a friend who is creating a revision of a genus, and a few new descriptions. I'll mostly be drawing the epigyne (poony) of females, which is very diagnostic in species identification. I'm mostly asking if anyone has read any good books on the subject of scientific biological illustration itself. Techniques, etc.
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May 25, 2010 06:01
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moss piglet posted:Well, yes, I'm planning to help a friend who is creating a revision of a genus, and a few new descriptions. I'll mostly be drawing the epigyne (poony) of females, which is very diagnostic in species identification. There are a couple named something like "Scientific Illustration" IIRC? Have you googled it, or tried Amazon?
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May 25, 2010 11:03
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Just got a new intuos4 and the program I chose to draw with is the free sketchbook express Wacom offers. It's a nice program, but I'm wondering if I should just spring for sketchbook pro 2010 instead?
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May 26, 2010 01:32
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So I'm getting a lot of stuff framed right now. A few things I took to a professional framer, and then yesterday I went and picked up about a dozen frames to do myself. The frames I picked up are all floating frames, where the piece is just pressed between two pieces of glass with no mat. I mentioned this to the professional and he informed me that this was horrible, that a major purpose of mats is to keep the piece from touching the glass. He warned that basically ANYTHING kept in a floating frame would eventually be messed up in one way or another. I can understand that paintings or photographs would stick the glass, but he insisted even something pencil or ink would suffer. Now, I have the receipt and can just go return all the frames (although I hate being that kind of customer) but I actually like the effect of the floating frames. Is there any way to make them work?
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May 27, 2010 21:27
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the immediate reasons that come to mind would be that things break down over time and emit gasses that need to escape, some organic materials will do better exposed to open air, and the air can act as a buffer for changes in heat you might also consider the breakdown of artwork as a chemical process that occurs over time, thus pressing a hot element against it, like a piece of glass, would increase that rate as all chemical processes speed up with heat increases (there's some formula for that) still, exposure to light over long periods of time will be the main source of image degradation consider a mylar encapsulation or mounting the piece in a matte and then floating it if thats your thing and it's really valueable/worth it - if its just cheap stuff with no high fiscal or sentimental value I wouldn't worry about it that much
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May 27, 2010 21:43
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killing_fields posted:I'm trying to sell art. I've had good success so far, both on here and in real life. What are another couple sites aside from SA that I can sell canvas art on? It depends on your style of art, but there's always eBay. I purchase quite a lot of art there. You can also offer things for sale on a deviant art account. If by custom pieces you mean commissions, again eBay and deviant art are good, simple places to offer your services and provide samples of previous work.
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May 27, 2010 23:00
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Not sure where else to ask this. I'm trying to make a boarder around an image in Photoshop, and I have the boarder selected, but when I use the paintbucket or the "fill" option it keeps putting a white gradient instead of a solid white color. I don't see any gradient option selected?
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May 28, 2010 19:37
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I'm a loving idiot and had the idea of drawing a nude from a reference with tons of negative space (the negative space was actually what made me want to draw it in the first place). I'm a total nub when it comes to using pencil for realistic rendering, what's the best pencil to use to render large areas of black? The tutorial I've been referring to recommends using a hard edge pencil (so I've been using HB and 2B) and keeping it super sharp, which I've been doing but it's a gigantic pain in the butt and doesn't get as dark as I'd like. I've also tried using 8b, which is nice and dark but wears down too fast and shows too much of the paper grain (///_ಥ) Normally I'd just use vine charcoal but I'm trying to stick with art pencils this time around. Humboldt Squid fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jun 1, 2010 |
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Jun 1, 2010 03:53
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Humboldt squid posted:I'm a loving idiot and had the idea of drawing a nude from a reference with tons of negative space (the negative space was actually what made me want to draw it in the first place). I'm a total nub when it comes to using pencil for realistic rendering, what's the best pencil to use to render large areas of black? The tutorial I've been referring to recommends using a hard edge pencil (so I've been using HB and 2B) and keeping it super sharp, which I've been doing but it's a gigantic pain in the butt and doesn't get as dark as I'd like. I've also tried using 8b, which is nice and dark but wears down too fast and shows too much of the paper grain (///_ಥ) welp, If I were you I'd just go ahead and use india ink and a nice brush. India ink is really smooth and extremely easy to work with, and it gives you THE blackest black. But if you want to stick with pencils, then I'd go to the local art store and by a woodless graphite in the highest number B possible. You should be able to find 8 or 9b) I think you'll find that a woodless high-b pencil will make the paper wrinkle less and you won't have to sharpen as often.
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Jun 1, 2010 04:32
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