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Skarsnik posted:
these, they own. Also, I reshot my Chinork and played a bit with the levels so the details are a bit more visible.   I'm not looking forward to making rivets for this thing. Combaticus fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Jun 3, 2010 |
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Jun 3, 2010 13:36
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Combaticus posted:these, they own. While your work looks great, I just don't like the concept of the Chinork. Make no mistake I'm doing one myself, but I'm basing it on a Huey helicopter rather than a flying plank.
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Jun 3, 2010 14:18
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Indolent Bastard posted:While your work looks great, I just don't like the concept of the Chinork. Make no mistake I'm doing one myself, but I'm basing it on a Huey helicopter rather than a flying plank. Yeah same here, I don't really like the design of forgeworlds chinork, but I love the idea. And I think the chinook itself looks a bit too clunky, so I'm going for more of a Black Hawk look, so … Black hork?
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Jun 3, 2010 14:32
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Finally got this water effects stuff to work out
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Jun 3, 2010 18:35
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What'd you use for the water effects? I'm looking to do the same thing to some ruins I painted up.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:36
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Woodland scenics EZ water, the kind you melt
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Jun 3, 2010 18:39
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I'll have to try it, I bought the wrong kind at hobby town, that you squeeze outta the bottle then shape it how you want and it dries semi-clear in a day. I could find a use for it, but it's not what I wanted 
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Jun 3, 2010 18:42
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Yeah I bought that too, it sits on my desk mostly unused. Its not bad for really shallow areas, but its not really that clear and you cant get it to lay smooth at all
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Jun 3, 2010 18:49
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Wow. That's a sick Dread PV.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:51
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Zarkov builds pretty models, pays me lots of money to make em purty 
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Jun 3, 2010 19:02
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Ashcans posted:Someone in this thread mentioned using those sonic jewelry cleaners to strip miniatures, but I can't remember who it was or if it was really this thread so finding the posts has been a pain. Anyone remember what I am talking about? It was me (and RJS). I'm (and him are) that guy. Like what Enri said, there's a lot of different ones. Pretty sure a good one can fit a jetbike or three, possibly a vyper. Got the idea from AwesomePaintJob.com for cleaning airbrushes, figured it would work on models too. As for the cleaning agent, just use whatever you were using before: the magic fingers of the sonic bath will scrub them all down for you. PaintVagrant posted:Woodland scenics EZ water, the kind you melt Did you dye it? Or is it just clear water effects atop of a painted base?
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Jun 3, 2010 19:26
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I used clump foliage glued to the bottom, then dripped some devlan mud on it to darken it a bit. Then poured the clear stuff on top
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Jun 3, 2010 19:44
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PaintVagrant posted:Zarkov builds pretty models, pays me lots of money to make em purty Not that Zarkov would do it, but how annoyed would you be if somebody won awards for your paint job that they commissioned?
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Jun 3, 2010 20:13
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If it was for best army at a tourney Id be fine with it, if it was a painting comp and they said they painted it I would bust them.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:14
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PaintVagrant posted:I used clump foliage glued to the bottom, then dripped some devlan mud on it to darken it a bit. Then poured the clear stuff on top I'm stealing this. Stealing it right now!
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Jun 3, 2010 20:19
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NecronSchmecron posted:I'm stealing this. Stealing it right now!
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Jun 3, 2010 20:28
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah I bought that too, it sits on my desk mostly unused. Its not bad for really shallow areas, but its not really that clear and you cant get it to lay smooth at all It's useful for sculpting waves or ripples onto larger masses of water effects. I did that for the water on the base of my may oath, but it's much too reflective to show up properly in photos. Either that or too transparent.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:33
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Khadhul posted:It's useful for sculpting waves or ripples onto larger masses of water effects. I did that for the water on the base of my may oath, but it's much too reflective to show up properly in photos. Either that or too transparent. I don't feel like digging through the oath thread, can you repost it?
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Jun 3, 2010 20:34
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Here is the relevant photo in stupid high resolution.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:37
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Gross
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Jun 3, 2010 20:39
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Khadhul posted:Here is the relevant photo in stupid high resolution. Goddamn, dude. I gotta play around with this stuff.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:41
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As a side note about water effects, I noticed when I was making the blood in the water there that atleast with the water effects I used (vallejo still water), it is very easy to discolour parts of the water effects just by stabbing the paint down into the water effects and dragging it around into roughly how you want it with your brush. The paint will naturally suffuse into the water effects, making a cloudy coloured portion.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:47
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Anyone got any good tutorials on how to do marbled stone effects?
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Jun 3, 2010 21:59
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I read a GW masterclass article on painting Chakax, I think that has a tutorial for marble. It's on the website in the painting articles.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:31
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Fyrbrand posted:I read a GW masterclass article on painting Chakax, I think that has a tutorial for marble. It's on the website in the painting articles. Because GW is a bitch to find stuff on (  search engine), here's the relevant details:quote:2) Star-Stone Mace. Keith wanted the Star-Stone Mace to look like an untypical weapon, so he painted it with an impressive marbled effect. To do this he started with a basecoat of Scorched Brown mixed 50/50 with Codex Grey. Into this he mixed Bleached Bone for the next layer, adding a little more Bleached Bone into each successive stage. The veins on the marble were painted with Adeptus Battlegrey, and then glazed over with a couple of watery layers of Bleached Bone to blend the veins back into the marble. Lastly Keith gave the Star-Stone Mace some more glazes using watered-down washes, one of Thraka Green and Leviathan Purple, concentrating on the recesses. 
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Jun 4, 2010 00:28
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 Attention Combaticus.Did you make the plate with bolts on top of your chinork rotor? Because if you did, it looks amazing. Now please make a scratchbuilt chain out of 600 tiny pieces of card. You know you want to... 
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Jun 4, 2010 00:28
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MaliciousOnion posted:Because GW is a bitch to find stuff on ( That's it, thanks. Would've found it myself but I'm stuck on my phone for internet.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:32
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Thanks guys. 
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Jun 4, 2010 00:58
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Sole.Sushi posted:It was me (and RJS). I'm (and him are) that guy. Like what Enri said, there's a lot of different ones. Pretty sure a good one can fit a jetbike or three, possibly a vyper. Got the idea from AwesomePaintJob.com for cleaning airbrushes, figured it would work on models too. As for the cleaning agent, just use whatever you were using before: the magic fingers of the sonic bath will scrub them all down for you. Thanks! I found Rapey-Joe's post about it, but unfortunately the one he used is pretty pricey and also in the UK. Any recommendations for what to get? There are a bunch of these things on Amazon, etc, but I am kind of skeptical of a $20 cleaner. I guess that it won't save me on the simple green budget, but it would still be nice not to spend my hour of miniature time every night (if I'm lucky enough to get it) scrubbing.
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Jun 4, 2010 01:08
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You know your undercoat has no tooth when drybrushing takes the top layer of paint off...
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Jun 4, 2010 03:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Finally got this water effects stuff to work out I love how the water effect actually looks like it's lapping up against the guardsman's arm in the third shot poo poo's hot son
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Jun 4, 2010 04:25
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Ashcans posted:Thanks! I found Rapey-Joe's post about it, but unfortunately the one he used is pretty pricey and also in the UK. Any recommendations for what to get? There are a bunch of these things on Amazon, etc, but I am kind of skeptical of a $20 cleaner. I guess that it won't save me on the simple green budget, but it would still be nice not to spend my hour of miniature time every night (if I'm lucky enough to get it) scrubbing. My father was a dentist and when he retired I inherited his. I dont know about one that cheap, but mine has really cut into my SG budget simply because I can use one bottle for a LONG time. Much longer than when I cleaned by hand.
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Jun 4, 2010 04:44
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sicarius posted:My father was a dentist and when he retired I inherited his. I dont know about one that cheap, but mine has really cut into my SG budget simply because I can use one bottle for a LONG time. Much longer than when I cleaned by hand. This. Exactly this. Any one of them will do, honestly: the vibrations will pull crap and paint out of even the deepest recesses.
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Jun 4, 2010 06:12
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Ashcans posted:Thanks! I found Rapey-Joe's post about it, but unfortunately the one he used is pretty pricey and also in the UK. Any recommendations for what to get? There are a bunch of these things on Amazon, etc, but I am kind of skeptical of a $20 cleaner. I guess that it won't save me on the simple green budget, but it would still be nice not to spend my hour of miniature time every night (if I'm lucky enough to get it) scrubbing. The important thing is the frequency they run at. Cheap lovely ones run at like 5khz, you need it to run at 10khz min.
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Jun 4, 2010 06:14
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PaintVagrant posted:I used clump foliage glued to the bottom, then dripped some devlan mud on it to darken it a bit. Then poured the clear stuff on top Stealing this, since it's pretty much what I do for my bases anyway. Never thought of using it for the base level of a water feature though.
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Jun 4, 2010 09:46
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Tentacle Party posted:
The plate on top? Yep, or do you mean the grey bit under the rotor? That's a part of the turret from the trukk kit. As for the chain? Hells nawww! I'd either fiddle too much with each link, or get distracted between cutting every single one and veg out and watch tv. Plus my hands are covered up in more than enough superglue already. Gluing that chain together would be hell.
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Jun 4, 2010 10:11
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Combaticus posted:The plate on top? Yep, or do you mean the grey bit under the rotor? That's a part of the turret from the trukk kit. Yeah the bit that looks like a sprocket bolted to the top, it looks like a bitz not scratchbuilt!
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Jun 4, 2010 10:19
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Since I finally got around to uploading the photos from my camera I thought I'd post up a review of the first 54mm miniature I bought. The model is Pegaso's XII-XIII Century Holy Land Knight. It's sculpted by Gianni La Rocca, is white metal and comes in 12 pieces. It cost me $50 australian and imo it's worth every cent. It comes in a neat little hardcover box like so:  When you open the box everything is nice and secure in foam padding, when I took the photo I left out the little fiddly bits and the sheet of paper you get giving you the Knights history, as well as different ways in which to paint him. Whoops  When assembling the model the thing I was most impressed with was the ease in which he fit together, there was minimal gap filling or filing needed. I pinned him in all of the joints but even when just dry fitting the parts would stick together due to how well the sockets fit. There were also very minimal mold lines, so for those of you that hate preparing models that's a big plus  Here he is mostly assembled standing next to a chaos terminator. The base comes with the miniature  All in all it's a really nice model and if all Pegaso miniatures are as high a quality I would recommend them to anyone interested in giving 54mm or above a shot. I was impressed enough that I ordered this guy to have a stab at once I finish the knight.
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Jun 4, 2010 10:27
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Tentacle Party posted:Yeah the bit that looks like a sprocket bolted to the top, it looks like a bitz not scratchbuilt! Oh that bit, that's just me nicking the sides of a circle of plasticard, to hide the fact that I cut it wrong.
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Jun 4, 2010 10:28
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Cakefool posted:The important thing is the frequency they run at. Cheap lovely ones run at like 5khz, you need it to run at 10khz min. Unfortunately I can't find this mentioned on the majority of them, not even on manufacturers sites. I guess I'll probably trust Sole Sushi and get one from somewhere with a warranty so that if it is total poo poo I can at least try to take it back.
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Jun 4, 2010 12:34
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