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Mad Dragon posted:I thought the sludging was mainly an issue with the longitudinal 1.8Ts. I'd say the longitudinal 1.8T engines had sludging issues about four to five times more often than the transverse engines in the Golf/Jetta. Stick with synthetic oil though - the turbo generates a fair bit of heat and the additive package in the synthetic oils help manage that. I've seen very few tensioners fail (if they're installed correctly). Usually the stupidly designed plastic water pump impellers fail long before the tensioners do.
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Jun 3, 2010 22:59
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Shubs posted:I just got my first car, a 2006 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5l. It's great and all but there are two things that I am concerned about. First, I'm disappointed with the hubcaps. Does anyone have any experience with trading these or buying them? Can I get any ole hubcaps and slap them on as long as they're the same size? Then the second thing is I want to delabel the car. I was told you could just cut off the labels(dealership, Jetta, and 2.5l plastic chrome) with some fishing wire and then set it out in the sun and rub it off with a rag and goo-gone. Is this the proper way to go about this? If not, what is? Check with your local autoparts store for aftermarket hubcap fitment - they should have a chart with some options. I've never seen a non-OEM hubcap fit well though. None of the badges on your Jetta are bolted on (with the obvious exception of the "VW" in the front grill) so the fishing line and Goo-Gone method will work just fine - that's how I do it when I have to replace badges under warranty.
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Jun 3, 2010 23:02
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks! Looks like the channel thing is a non-issue then. As for the console, It's a brand new car so it should be covered. I told the dealership about the rattle, but they're giving me the "cannot reproduce"/"we cannot guarantee that the new parts we install won't do the same thing" combo. It's a very obvious rattle, so I don't really believe that they can't reproduce it, just sounds like they don't want to do any work. I HATE doing rattle/creak/noise diagnosis but it's part of the job. Request a road test with a technician so you can point out the rattle you're hearing then they'll have no choice but to fix it. If they refuse a road test, call the VW customer service line and start asking questions. Squeaks and rattles can be awful to diagnose but you're the customer and it's the dealership's job to make sure you're happy with the car.
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Jun 3, 2010 23:07
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Autism Sundae posted:my1999gsr, could you please look up TSB #2023248? It appears that this TSB is for the rear washer jet on the 2010 GTI/Golf hatchback. It outlines the diagnosis of a leaking rear jet and the installation of a one-way valve in the washer hose going to the jet. Is there something in particular you'd like to know?
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Jun 3, 2010 23:14
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my1999gsr posted:It appears that this TSB is for the rear washer jet on the 2010 GTI/Golf hatchback. It outlines the diagnosis of a leaking rear jet and the installation of a one-way valve in the washer hose going to the jet. Is there something in particular you'd like to know? Thanks, yeah, it's for the leaking rear window washer like you said. I brought this issue up at the dealership before (the washer drips fluid every once in a while, usually when accelerating; mine isn't too bad but for some people it's pretty intense) and the dealership came back with the usual "cannot replicate problem" response. Should I just bring the car in and give them the TSB number? Are they still going to test drive to see if it dribbles? My issue is already on record like I said, but they might not reproduce it since it's very sporadic. Is that a pretty easy thing to fix? There's also that ticking B-pillar thing everyone seems to have but with the way things are going we might see a TSB for that in a year or so >:-[
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Jun 3, 2010 23:52
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks, yeah, it's for the leaking rear window washer like you said. I brought this issue up at the dealership before (the washer drips fluid every once in a while, usually when accelerating; mine isn't too bad but for some people it's pretty intense) and the dealership came back with the usual "cannot replicate problem" response. Should I just bring the car in and give them the TSB number? Are they still going to test drive to see if it dribbles? My issue is already on record like I said, but they might not reproduce it since it's very sporadic. Is that a pretty easy thing to fix? It should be very easy to fix - the hatch trim piece is easily removed to access the hose and from there it's a cut and splice operation. If I were you I'd make an service appointment and bring the TSB number with you. That's the thing about TSB/Tech Bulletins like this one - we're usually happy to perform the operations outlined even if we can't replicate the problem on the day we see it because VW Canada/USA is already aware that there's a problem so they're willing to pay us to fix it. The sad thing here is that VW warranty INSISTS that we check for applicable tech tips or bulletins whenever we encounter a problem that doesn't show up on our scan tools - it's a huge part of how we're supposed to document and repair problems. To see that so many goons are encountering problems of this kind just pisses me off - it's pure laziness on the part of the technicians and it makes us all look bad. I hope your dealership starts doing their job a little better so you don't have to do it for them.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:22
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Have you heard of clunking noises from the front of Mk5 GTIs when turning? My roommate's car started doing that recently and he mentioned it when bringing it in to have another rear wing put on (seems like a design flaw when two in a row get moisture in the 3rd brake light. From what the dealer's told him, it's due to some subframe bolts having excessive play even when tightened properly and they've installed some shims to clean up the slop. Apparently Mk6s are either shipping shimmed from the factory or with slightly modified parts, he wasn't clear on that. Do you have any details you can share? I'm curious exactly what parts were shifting around. The symptoms were two light clunks while steering which would recur when you steered back the other direction.
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Jun 4, 2010 01:15
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wolrah posted:Have you heard of clunking noises from the front of Mk5 GTIs when turning? My roommate's car started doing that recently and he mentioned it when bringing it in to have another rear wing put on (seems like a design flaw when two in a row get moisture in the 3rd brake light. From what the dealer's told him, it's due to some subframe bolts having excessive play even when tightened properly and they've installed some shims to clean up the slop. Apparently Mk6s are either shipping shimmed from the factory or with slightly modified parts, he wasn't clear on that. Do you have any details you can share? I'm curious exactly what parts were shifting around. It's becoming common in all the Mk5 Golf/Rabbit/GTI. The first one I had drove me crazy trying to figure it out but it turned out to be the right upper strut bearing. When the bearing starts to seize up it makes a clunking noise when you turn the wheels past a certain point. After that first one, I've done 3 or 4 for the same complaint. There IS a TSB about one of the lower engine mounts having poor bolts that are replaced under warranty, but it didn't fix any of the clunking during turning. Pop the hood and have your room mate turn the steering wheel while you rest your hand on the upper strut mount. You should feel the clunk as well as hear it.
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Jun 4, 2010 02:46
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Will do when he gets the car back. Apparently the wing was on backorder, it came in yesterday, and they screwed up and painted it red (his car is the nifty looking but I bet hell to repair scratches on metallic black) so a new one is expected to arrive tomorrow and he'll have the car back Monday.
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Jun 4, 2010 03:50
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I've learned some interesting things about mk3 Jettas since I've been fixing one up I grabbed for 650 bucks. The main thing is that when they switched from OBD1 to OBD2 in mid 1996, some parts changed, such as the front upper strut mounts (which I bought the wrong version of) and the air mass meter hose (which I also bought the wrong version of) 
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Jun 4, 2010 21:22
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So I took in my friend's 2002 1.8 Passat today for a general inspection by some highly rated volkswagon/audi specific mechanic today, and the damage isn't good: Problem - $PartsCost/$LaborCost Both motormounts leaking - 185/180 Both Trans Mounts (broken bushings - ?/90 Timing Belt and Water Pump (severely cracking,some leakage) - 341/360 Cam Tension Seals Leaking - 54/240 Needs front tires Driver Side Axle damaged - 135/120 Driver Side Front Wheel Bearing - 65/180 All 4 upper links - rubber bushing broken - 364/240 Passenger Outer Tie Rod End has excessive Play - 67/90 Driver outer tie rod end - bootsplit - 68/90 Rear Brake Pads - 71/120 Passenger Outer CV Boot Split - 120/37 Needs ECT Sensor - Electrical fault - 34/90 Cracked windshield Some other random stuff The car itself has 121,000 miles and isn't in great condition. Total parts and labor adds up to $3200 I think, more than the value of the car I'm sure. 1. Do these prices for parts/labor seem reasonable? 2. Which of these can I do myself being fairly mechanically inclined by having nothing but some jack stands, torque wrenches, and an otherwise relatively complete set of standard tools? 3. What do you think my friend should expect to sell this car for today without any of this fixed? hayden. fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jun 4, 2010 |
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Jun 4, 2010 23:24
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hayden. posted:So I took in my friend's 2002 1.8 Passat today for a general inspection by some highly rated volkswagon/audi specific mechanic today, and the damage isn't good: VW's use a lot of XZN sockets, Torx, and metric bits. Plus, a lot of specialty tools, pins, levers, etc. They're a pain 
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Jun 5, 2010 08:14
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my1999gsr posted:It appears that this TSB is for the rear washer jet on the 2010 GTI/Golf hatchback. It outlines the diagnosis of a leaking rear jet and the installation of a one-way valve in the washer hose going to the jet. Is there something in particular you'd like to know? ...which leads into My Favorite VW Maintenance Issue, Ever. Cap on the rear washer nozzle broke off, causing a jet of washer fluid to be sprayed directly back at the car following (tailgating) me. Almost didn't want to fix that one.
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Jun 5, 2010 08:21
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hayden. posted:So I took in my friend's 2002 1.8 Passat today for a general inspection by some highly rated volkswagon/audi specific mechanic today, and the damage isn't good: 1. Overall the prices here for both parts and labor are pretty good - in particular that cam tensioner seal (it's a 4.5 hour job by the book). A Passat of that year is prone to the majority of the issues you have listed so it's not a surprise they've ganged up. 2. The easiest jobs you have listed here are the rear brakes and the ECT - both can be done with basic tools. If you've done a timing belt before or you have a step by step instruction manual, you can also do that job but it's not something you want to screw up - if it goes wrong it goes REALLY wrong. You might be able to do the engine and tranny mounts but that's difficult if you can't get the car any higher than jackstand height. Many of the other jobs require more Euro-specific tools (triplesquare bits, hex/allen bits, etc) so if you don't have access to them the whole job can become very frustrating. As an example, a customer asked if he could borrow a VW specific tool that is used in replacement of the cam tensioner adjuster seal. I asked him if he had a shop manual to walk him through the job and he said sure so I loaned him the tool. Three days later he called me at the shop to ask some questions. During that conversation I learned that he was 10 hours into the job and just over halfway done. This is a guy that recently did the t-belt on his 1.8 Passat so he was fairly experienced in how VW puts cars together. This isn't to say any of the jobs are impossible - far from it, but be prepared for some vehicle down-time while you find specific tools and figure out ways to complete the more difficult tasks. 3. I'm not terribly current on used VW vehicle prices - check out similar vehicles on Autotrader.com or Craigslist in your area for a better idea. As far as selling price goes, it really depends on how forthcoming your friend wants to be. The mileage isn't terribly high so if the car is in decent visual shape it should sell for decent money. When you get a grocery list of problems from a shop it can be difficult for a customer to determine what items need replacing immediately and which ones are developing into problems. If the whole list is made up of things that are in very poor shape that require replacement ASAP then the selling price of the vehicle suffers for it - particularly if a potential buyer is smart enough to take the car to a mechanic for a look prior to sale.
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Jun 5, 2010 16:52
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primitive posted:...which leads into My Favorite VW Maintenance Issue, Ever. We have a customer that refuses to have this problem fixed on his Golf for the exact same reason.
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Jun 5, 2010 16:55
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insta posted:VW's use a lot of XZN sockets, Torx, and metric bits. Plus, a lot of specialty tools, pins, levers, etc. They're a pain Have you ever worked on a VW? I can do most work on my GTI with basic tools. Sure there are some specialty tools/sockets that may be required but many cars require special tools depending on what you're doing.
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Jun 5, 2010 17:30
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wav3form posted:Have you ever worked on a VW? I can do most work on my GTI with basic tools. Sure there are some specialty tools/sockets that may be required but many cars require special tools depending on what you're doing. I've done headgaskets and overhauls on 80's-92 VW Jetta, Rabbits, Foxes, and Scirroccos gas and diesel with basic metric tools and the occasional torx
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Jun 5, 2010 18:25
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I am having a problem with my 1987 Jetta. When I am stopped at a red light for too long or if it is just really warm out, the engine gets hot. Sometimes when I hit the gas pedal after sitting for awhile, the car lurches forward and kind of jerks back and forth. I am not very good with cars, but I did check the obvious things like the coolant level and confirmed that the fan is working. Any other ideas you guys may have would be great, I did take it in to the mechanic a few months ago but he didn't find anything wrong with it.
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Jun 5, 2010 21:09
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my1999gsr posted:We have a customer that refuses to have this problem fixed on his Golf for the exact same reason. It's a common unfixed item. A friend of mine had a Mk3 Golf he left like that also for the same reason. It was a lot of fun.
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Jun 5, 2010 23:11
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After some searching around, it seems like a loud radiator fan might be the cause of the RPM-related roaring noise. Makes sense since it starts when the engine warms up. I might have to replace the fan itself, the fan clutch, or the fan switch. Do you have an idea as to what should be the first stop, and how hard any of these would be?
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Jun 6, 2010 03:04
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wav3form posted:Have you ever worked on a VW? I can do most work on my GTI with basic tools. Sure there are some specialty tools/sockets that may be required but many cars require special tools depending on what you're doing. Dude I own an A5 MkV. I gained a healthy dose of apprehension for diving into a project when I found out midway through replacing my pads, that my rear brakes take an XZN to remove. I paid $40 for a set of them on Amazon, and couldn't be happier (I love XZN now that I have the tools for it), just people need to be aware that it's a lot more metric and "specialty" things than most cars. Once you have them, it's a breeze to work on them though. My warning is mostly for someone who's got a full set of SAE sockets and Phillips screwdrivers. Now, for my question! How do I install trailer lights? I had a Chux Trux do it when they installed my hitch, and they just spliced into my taillight wires. The ECU doesn't like that and keeps throwing trouble codes for excessive current drawn through the bulbs when I have a trailer hooked up. I know to do it right there's going to be a module that takes power from the battery and interacts with the CAN bus, but I don't have any part numbers or where it goes. I do have a tool to change coding after it's installed.
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Jun 7, 2010 20:21
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my1999gsr posted:It's becoming common in all the Mk5 Golf/Rabbit/GTI. The first one I had drove me crazy trying to figure it out but it turned out to be the right upper strut bearing. When the bearing starts to seize up it makes a clunking noise when you turn the wheels past a certain point. After that first one, I've done 3 or 4 for the same complaint. There IS a TSB about one of the lower engine mounts having poor bolts that are replaced under warranty, but it didn't fix any of the clunking during turning. I was just about to come ask about this. Is it something that will lead to problems later on? It's annoying, but I can live with it and I'd rather save a trip to the dealer.
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Jun 7, 2010 21:24
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Rhusitaurion posted:After some searching around, it seems like a loud radiator fan might be the cause of the RPM-related roaring noise. Makes sense since it starts when the engine warms up. I might have to replace the fan itself, the fan clutch, or the fan switch. Do you have an idea as to what should be the first stop, and how hard any of these would be? I've got a 2.7T A6 on my work list for tomorrow - I'll have a look and see how the fans are mounted. I doubt you'll need the switch since the fans do run but I can't remember if there's a fan clutch or if they're electric/clutchless.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:14
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insta posted:Dude I own an A5 MkV. I gained a healthy dose of apprehension for diving into a project when I found out midway through replacing my pads, that my rear brakes take an XZN to remove. I paid $40 for a set of them on Amazon, and couldn't be happier (I love XZN now that I have the tools for it), just people need to be aware that it's a lot more metric and "specialty" things than most cars. Once you have them, it's a breeze to work on them though. My warning is mostly for someone who's got a full set of SAE sockets and Phillips screwdrivers. I'll check with my parts dept tomorrow. You're right though - there will need to be a module in there somewhere since the exterior lighting uses a PWM signal to power them and that doesn't work with the average trailer harness.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:17
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teh jhey posted:I was just about to come ask about this. Is it something that will lead to problems later on? It might get louder over time and it's possible that it could have some effect on your alignment if the bearing gets horribly bad but that's very unlikely. Try spraying some WD-40 on the top coil of the spring on the side that's making the noise.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:22
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I've got some bad vibration at freeway speeds and I'm beginning to think it may be the engine mounts. Are these tough to replace on a 2.7 A6 (ie do I have to remove the lock carrier?), because the last thing I feel like doing right now is putting the car in service mode (I just got done replacing the timing belt and would rather not go through all that work all over again...)
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Jun 8, 2010 02:05
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my1999gsr posted:I'll check with my parts dept tomorrow. You're right though - there will need to be a module in there somewhere since the exterior lighting uses a PWM signal to power them and that doesn't work with the average trailer harness. According to my parts department, we don't currently have any way to properly wire up a hitch on the Mk5 Jetta/Golf. There may be aftermarket companies making kits but so far none from VW... At least in Canada.
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Jun 9, 2010 00:02
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Neon Machete posted:I've got some bad vibration at freeway speeds and I'm beginning to think it may be the engine mounts. Are these tough to replace on a 2.7 A6 (ie do I have to remove the lock carrier?), because the last thing I feel like doing right now is putting the car in service mode (I just got done replacing the timing belt and would rather not go through all that work all over again...) If memory serves you don't need to put the car in service mode to replace the engine mounts but it's not a fun job. Any chance your wheels are out of balance?
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Jun 9, 2010 00:11
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my1999gsr posted:I've got a 2.7T A6 on my work list for tomorrow - I'll have a look and see how the fans are mounted. I doubt you'll need the switch since the fans do run but I can't remember if there's a fan clutch or if they're electric/clutchless. After checking my service manuals it appears that you can have electric fans or a viscous fan setup. Can you post a pic of your fans?
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Jun 9, 2010 00:16
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I also posted this in the stupid questions thread, but I guess it also counts as a VW question:teh jhey posted:'09 VW GTI
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Jun 9, 2010 05:29
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my1999gsr posted:According to my parts department, we don't currently have any way to properly wire up a hitch on the Mk5 Jetta/Golf. There may be aftermarket companies making kits but so far none from VW... At least in Canada. Bummer, sounds like I might try to hack something up with a PIC then.
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Jun 9, 2010 14:38
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My awesome great-uncle gave me a '96 Passat TDI. It runs but has a few issues. According to him "some dumbass screwed up the computer and it had to be replaced". I'm not exactly sure what he means by this but it might be a clue. The main issue is the instrument cluster - nothing works. All the needles are frozen, and the odometer is blank. CEL and airbag lights are on, which he also blames on the same villain, but I'm gonna swing by a garage near my house and get the CEL code anyway. Other than that are there any known issues I should watch out for or get checked?
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Jun 9, 2010 20:15
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Ok CEL was P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" I'm guessing the glow plug harness isn't supposed to look like this 
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Jun 10, 2010 00:02
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heat posted:Ok CEL was P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" No, it is not. Yikes, that got manhandled. It looks like the original bus-bar though. As far as issues, they're the same as any other Passat chassis vehicles like the A4 - front suspension link issues and CV boots will be the most common. Since you have the diesel engine it should be a pretty good car. Try to use synthetic if you can - the turbo diesel engines are hard on their oil but otherwise drive 'er. As far as your instrument cluster problem, it's hard to say what's going on. If the ECM has been changed then the cluster might have required adaptation for it to work correctly but without knowing why it was replaced then I'm guessing. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 02:27
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my1999gsr posted:After checking my service manuals it appears that you can have electric fans or a viscous fan setup. Can you post a pic of your fans? Can't get a pic at the moment, but there's 2 electric fans (front and back of the radiator) and another viscous one on the back. I dunno how the viscous-coupled one works, I assume it just becomes stiffer as the engine heats up.
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Jun 10, 2010 05:46
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The viscous fan in the 2.7ts are pretty noisy, especially if the fan clutch isn't replaced at a 60k interval. If it's running and you shut off the car you can hear it spin down.
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Jun 10, 2010 16:30
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my1999gsr posted:No, it is not. Yikes, that got manhandled. It looks like the original bus-bar though. As far as issues, they're the same as any other Passat chassis vehicles like the A4 - front suspension link issues and CV boots will be the most common. Since you have the diesel engine it should be a pretty good car. Try to use synthetic if you can - the turbo diesel engines are hard on their oil but otherwise drive 'er. coolant migration?
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Jun 10, 2010 18:47
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my1999gsr posted:No, it is not. Yikes, that got manhandled. It looks like the original bus-bar though. As far as issues, they're the same as any other Passat chassis vehicles like the A4 - front suspension link issues and CV boots will be the most common. Since you have the diesel engine it should be a pretty good car. Try to use synthetic if you can - the turbo diesel engines are hard on their oil but otherwise drive 'er. Thanks for the advice. It looks like a new harness will run about 70 bucks but I'll probably put it off until the winter because I certainly don't need glow plugs now. primitive posted:coolant migration? Can you elaborate? He said the heater core was replaced if that matters.
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Jun 10, 2010 19:23
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primitive posted:coolant migration? I know it's been discussed all over the interwebs but coolant migration is very, very rare. In frequent round table discussions with techs from dealerships all over Ontario I've only heard of 3-4 cases of coolant migration in the past 3 years or so. It IS terrible when it does happen but it's far from a common enough complaint to think it's at fault here. It's certainly possible but there's so many other, more common things it could be.
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Jun 11, 2010 01:10
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Rhusitaurion posted:Can't get a pic at the moment, but there's 2 electric fans (front and back of the radiator) and another viscous one on the back. I dunno how the viscous-coupled one works, I assume it just becomes stiffer as the engine heats up. Sorry, yeah - you've got 2 electric fans in the shroud plus a viscous coupled fan. The viscous fan operates when the engine RPMs are high enough to thicken the fluid inside the coupler thus spinning the fan. If you have the car's engine off with the key on and you turn on the A/C can you hear the noise you're worried about?
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Jun 11, 2010 01:16
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