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Raymn posted:If I'm not mistaken, on the e30 being a coupe and the spoiler was an option for the them without it being an is. The is got a different suspension, sport seats and a LSD I think as well as being a coupe. Huh. I'm confused as to what it actually is now, then. 2 door, came with a spoiler but not installed. I got a VIN breakdown awhile ago which said it was a 325i with one of the order options listed as "209 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL (25%)" Does that mean I likely have an iS with a replaced trunk or something? Badging on the trunk is currently 325i.
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Jun 5, 2010 21:57
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Baram posted:Huh. I'm confused as to what it actually is now, then. 2 door, came with a spoiler but not installed. I got a VIN breakdown awhile ago which said it was a 325i with one of the order options listed as "209 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL (25%)" Does that mean I likely have an iS with a replaced trunk or something? Badging on the trunk is currently 325i. Those spoilers are held on with adhesive, it's entirely possible that in 20 years the glue just didn't want to hold anymore. Or it got hit in its rear at one time and the garage didn't order the right parts. These cars are old and have probably seen 5+ owners in their life, they have "patina" and "history." Buy the little iS and make it right if you want. For only $26 I'd buy it and put it on there, but this is coming from the person who is getting ready to buy a tacky '80s decal from Porsche that costs $100... for a sticker. It's a boss sticker, to be fair.
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Jun 6, 2010 00:03
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I'm looking at a SMG hydraulic pump replacement on an e85. Dealership is asking $4,000. I know they're expensive transmissions to fix, but this seems crazy.
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Jun 6, 2010 03:02
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Baram posted:Huh. I'm confused as to what it actually is now, then. 2 door, came with a spoiler but not installed. I got a VIN breakdown awhile ago which said it was a 325i with one of the order options listed as "209 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL (25%)" Does that mean I likely have an iS with a replaced trunk or something? Badging on the trunk is currently 325i. I think the LSD was an option too. I may be wrong but I feel like most things on the is were available in some form as an option for non is cars. Did it come with sport seats? What is the suspension setup?
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Jun 6, 2010 03:09
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OrangeFurious posted:I'm looking at a SMG hydraulic pump replacement on an e85. Dealership is asking $4,000. I know they're expensive transmissions to fix, but this seems crazy. Sweet merciful Jesus. gently caress SMG so much. That seems batshit crazy - what do parts run for this particular problem?
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Jun 6, 2010 04:02
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OrangeFurious posted:I'm looking at a SMG hydraulic pump replacement on an e85. Dealership is asking $4,000. I know they're expensive transmissions to fix, but this seems crazy. God. drat. At that price I'd eBay a used SMG, sell the car, and buy something else.
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Jun 6, 2010 04:09
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Those spoilers are held on with adhesive The e30 spoilers are held in with screws from the trunk last I checked.
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Jun 6, 2010 04:12
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Baram posted:Huh. I'm confused as to what it actually is now, then. 2 door, came with a spoiler but not installed. I got a VIN breakdown awhile ago which said it was a 325i with one of the order options listed as "209 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL (25%)" Does that mean I likely have an iS with a replaced trunk or something? Badging on the trunk is currently 325i. Apparently, BMW offered a 2 door E30 badged as a 325i (no S) for MY 1989-1991. The "S" models added upgraded suspension, sport seats, LSD, front and rear spoilers, 3-spoke steering wheel, and cross-spoke alloys. This according to The 3 Series Enthusiasts Companion.
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Jun 6, 2010 04:32
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multiprotocol posted:Sweet merciful Jesus. gently caress SMG so much. That seems batshit crazy - what do parts run for this particular problem? The part is $3,000, plus a full day of labor. The dealership is talking to my warranty company now. The beauty of this is I don't see how the warranty company could possibly get out of it. The warranty was $1,900.
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Jun 6, 2010 15:01
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Oh for fucks sake! Torpedoed by a Nissan Almera, which barely got a scratch. We're not supposed to have nice things, are we?
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Jun 6, 2010 18:45
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Could be worse, looks like you can fix that for probably 2-300.
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Jun 6, 2010 19:13
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evobatman posted:Oh for fucks sake! Hey, at least your fog deletes weren't harmed  And it looks like a good time to go with an DDM M3 repro bumper, and updated 97+ front fascia if that's your thing.
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Jun 6, 2010 19:23
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Hey, at least your fog deletes weren't harmed My plans exactly, but I would have liked to have done it according to my own schedule. It needs a new suspension kit, but now that has to be postponed too.
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Jun 6, 2010 19:29
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Brock Landers posted:From what I've read, it doesn't affect drivability at first, it just triggers the light. As time goes on, it can, but not always. The real issue is failing emissions and having to pay thousands because of the stupid light. Warm emissions are unaffected, the secondary air system is just for startup/cold emissions. I believe that powerchip sells a reflash for ~$1000 that will remove the check engine light and has gotten some people through inspections where emissions are checked.
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Jun 6, 2010 23:26
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loving A, I AM SO CLOSE TO THE END. Taking a break to post that I have completely installed the following: AST 4100, 550#/650# front/rear New OEM control arms, tie rods, steering knuckles, front wheel hubs, front/rear rotors Powerflex LCABs UUC F/R Sways + urethane RTABs Mishimoto Radiator + silicone hoses Zionsville Autosport fan + shroud + expansion tank Stewart water pump Turner underdrive pulleys (gently caress the alternator pulley, I'll do that later) ...plus about a half dozen other things that I'm not thinking of. Pictures are soon to come, but I still have to plumb the wiring for the new fan (deleting engine fan + aux fan, gently caress you Spal I hope you're worth it), and fill/bleed the cooling system. Then oil change + PS flush + trans flush + diff flush. Then off to Montreal. Looking like I'll have all this buttoned up tomorrow. gently caress. Me. Running.
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Jun 7, 2010 02:20
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Sooo, for $600ish on eBay you can make this exhaust: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFNHBusG5A0 ...fuuuuuuuuuuuuck that is tempting. multiprotocol posted:gently caress. Me. Running. I hope you're getting an alignment somewhere in there. Don't bother with the alt pulley, it's cosmetic only if I remember correctly. How much did the mishimoto run/where did you get it? I noticed some worrying weeping on my plastic endtanks of my 2005 dated radiator.
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Jun 7, 2010 03:29
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:I hope you're getting an alignment somewhere in there. Don't bother with the alt pulley, it's cosmetic only if I remember correctly. How much did the mishimoto run/where did you get it? I noticed some worrying weeping on my plastic endtanks of my 2005 dated radiator. I got the Mishimoto from some place up in Minnesota, who had it drop-shipped to me. My advice: don't skimp, and purchase the whole Zionsville Autosport kit. I know it's like $1100, but it's seriously worth it in my opinion. Knowing what I now know, I'd have done that to begin with instead of piecing things together. Alignment got done Friday. My shock towers are ballooned somewhat, and my alignment guy could get at MOST -3.3° of camber. That works great if you like bite/turn-in like a damned go-kart. Guess this car is becoming a track car sooner than I planned. It'll be fun wearing out these PS2s. Oh yeah, wheel porn. New TR Motorsport MT1-Rs in 17x9 with 245/40/17 Pilot Sport PS2s. Don't believe the hype, I had to run a 12mm spacer up front, but amazingly there is zero rubbing. I'll have a pair of 5mm Bimmerworld spacers for sale tomorrow, low low AI price. .jpg)
multiprotocol fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 03:38
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multiprotocol posted:Don't believe the hype, I had to run a 12mm spacer up front, but amazingly there is zero rubbing. How hard have you driven the car? Are the fenders rolled? I get rear rub with 245/40/17 Sumitomo HTRZ-III tires in hard compression, and front tire rub on the fender with 15mm spacers (PO's choice).
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Jun 7, 2010 06:18
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Some pics from a BMW get together today in the Seattle Area. Probably 60 or so BMWs of all types showed up. 2002s  Burgandy 2002.  E30 M3s  3.0 CS  Thats not a 3.0 CS... That's a spaceship!  Panorama 3.0 CS  Vroom! BlackBart fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 10:06
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Sterndotstern posted:How hard have you driven the car? Are the fenders rolled? I get rear rub with 245/40/17 Sumitomo HTRZ-III tires in hard compression, and front tire rub on the fender with 15mm spacers (PO's choice). What suspension are you on?
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Jun 7, 2010 12:36
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Well, I've gone and joined the fun. I've been lusting after one of these since they came out. 2001 M3 with manual trans. It has a few cosmetic issues that I'll deal with along the way, but all in all, it's fantastic!
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Jun 7, 2010 17:43
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outkastist posted:Well, I've gone and joined the fun. I've been lusting after one of these since they came out. Sorry about the pic size, I forgot to downsize it. Is there a way for me to fix it now?
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Jun 7, 2010 17:44
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multiprotocol posted:What suspension are you on? Relatively fresh OEM springs & shocks! "Monster truck fender gap" and all that. I had the wheels on a PSS9-equipped '93 325is previously and it required significant fender cleanup to not rub at the track.
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Jun 7, 2010 19:19
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How can I remove what's left of a broken lug bolt?  I hate BMW for using bolts instead of studs and nuts.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:03
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Pissingintowind posted:How can I remove what's left of a broken lug bolt? The usual options really. - Left-hand threaded broken bolt removal drill - Vice grips - Weld a long metal bar onto what's left of the bolt, then turn, and hopefully it comes out
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Jun 7, 2010 22:32
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Pilsner posted:The usual options really. I have that same problem, and was wondering if it is something that needs immediate attention?
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Jun 7, 2010 22:40
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Pissingintowind posted:How can I remove what's left of a broken lug bolt? Hold onto your butt, this is gonna suck. First, the left-handed extractor method is the most likely to work, but will still require you to drill into the remaining lug steel, which is going to be hard as a motherfucker. I recommend buying two quality drill bits and some cutting oil. Drill it as deep and as wide as you dare, since, if the lug bolt broke, it's probably torqued to ten squintillion ft-lbs. Then you're going to be choosing an extractor, I encourage you to buy the best brand/quality kit you can find, because the only thing worse than a broken lug bolt is a broken extractor embedded in a broken lug bolt. This poo poo required a diamond-tip on a dremel to remove.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:42
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Why does BMW use lug bolts instead of studs? Are there any benefits?
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Jun 7, 2010 23:21
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revmoo posted:Why does BMW use lug bolts instead of studs? Are there any benefits? They're German. Ziss is how vee do it in der Vaterland.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:44
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I actually just realized that I have a spare wheel hub assembly on my parts car. I think it might actually be easier to swap hub assemblies than to extract the broken remains of the lug bolt. loving lug bolt  . Am I correct in this assumption?
Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 00:16
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Ok, went to look at the M5 again. 75k miles, in absolutely beautiful shape with full service records, looks to be in great mechanical shape. Made the VANOS noise for ~5sec on a warm start, didn't hear it after that. Sounds like an old diesel idling, but a bit quieter. Wheels have some curb rash, but nothing serious, rear tires are a bit worn (~2mm from the wear bars while the fronts are 5-6mm). He has 2 spare wheels (one each F/R) that he's including, both are brand new. Everything electronic is in good shape, it all works, etc. What's a fair price for an '00 M5 with Dinan stage II suspension? He's asking $17k, which strikes me as a bit high as one sold on ebay for $14k (albeit in worse shape).
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Jun 8, 2010 00:21
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KaiserBen posted:Ok, went to look at the M5 again. 75k miles, in absolutely beautiful shape with full service records, looks to be in great mechanical shape. Made the VANOS noise for ~5sec on a warm start, didn't hear it after that. Sounds like an old diesel idling, but a bit quieter. Wheels have some curb rash, but nothing serious, rear tires are a bit worn (~2mm from the wear bars while the fronts are 5-6mm). He has 2 spare wheels (one each F/R) that he's including, both are brand new. Everything electronic is in good shape, it all works, etc. That diesel idle is a normal S62 idle sound in the E39 M5. Mine does the same. $17k sounds slightly high for a 2000, but that Dinan Stage II is probably the reason for the slightly higher cost. Although $17k all-in-all isn't bad. I'd get a full PPI done by a decent shop to verify what you're saying.
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Jun 8, 2010 03:18
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usurper posted:That diesel idle is a normal S62 idle sound in the E39 M5. Mine does the same. $17k sounds slightly high for a 2000, but that Dinan Stage II is probably the reason for the slightly higher cost. Although $17k all-in-all isn't bad. I'd get a full PPI done by a decent shop to verify what you're saying. Yeah, that's scheduled for this weekend. There's a local independent German shop that I'm going to take it to. The suspension is ~$2400 new, and the other mods (chip, rear strut tower brace, XM radio, AFE filters) probably account for the price. Think an offer of 15.5-16k would be reasonable?
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Jun 8, 2010 04:02
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Sterndotstern posted:Relatively fresh OEM springs & shocks! "Monster truck fender gap" and all that. I had the wheels on a PSS9-equipped '93 325is previously and it required significant fender cleanup to not rub at the track. Drove a fairly hard 50 miles around town tonight with a passenger and a full load of fuel, no rub. My suspension is significantly less pliant than either of those two - but it's completely loving amazing. It rotates/pivots perfectly through curves, and the amount of turn-in at speed is bewildering. I love it. And, no rubbing at all that I can detect. Pissingintowind posted:I actually just realized that I have a spare wheel hub assembly on my parts car. I think it might actually be easier to swap hub assemblies than to extract the broken remains of the lug bolt. loving lug bolt As someone who has recently replaced the front hubs/knuckles on his car, just go ahead and replace both the hubs. They're like $90 each through Bimmerworld (half that if you trust eBay for parts like that) and other than the 46mm socket (get a 1 13/16" at Grainger, $16) needed for the job, it's not at all hard. multiprotocol fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 05:13
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multiprotocol posted:Drove a fairly hard 50 miles around town tonight with a passenger and a full load of fuel, no rub. My suspension is significantly less pliant than either of those two - but it's completely loving amazing. It rotates/pivots perfectly through curves, and the amount of turn-in at speed is bewildering. I love it. And, no rubbing at all that I can detect. I already have the entire assembly, including the hub attached the the knuckle, on my parts car. I shouldn't have any issues detaching the knuckle from the strut, tie rod, and control arm for transplantation, should I? 3 bolts to the strut, 1 each to the control arm and tie rod.
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Jun 8, 2010 05:37
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gigButt posted:I have that same problem, and was wondering if it is something that needs immediate attention? Depends, if you need to get a wheel off, it suddenly becomes a very urgent and highly annoying problem, so I'd get it fixed ASAP. You might get a flat some day, or if you take the car to a shop and they need to remove the wheel, they might charge you extra for taking off the wheel with the busted bolt.
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Jun 8, 2010 10:40
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How often do the A/C pumps go bad on E36's? My 325iS is missing the A/C belt, and I was just mulling it over in my head whether to buy a new belt on the possibility that the old one just broke, or to get the pump checked out/replaced in case it was the pump that seized and hosed the belt.
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Jun 8, 2010 12:38
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gently caress. I have a water leak. It's coming in right around the top of the driver's A pillar, running down the A pillar, through the dash, and coming out around the brake pedal. Weatherstripping looks fine, so I'm guessing the sunroof drains might be clogged. And the sunroof doesn't work so I can't even open it to check.
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Jun 9, 2010 18:24
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revmoo posted:I can't even open it to check. I'm pretty sure on my E36 there is a removeable panel in front of the sunroof that has a mechanical open/close something-or-another in it. I'm pretty sure it's there to close it if it breaks in the open position, but I don't see why you couldn't use it to open the sunroof. Unless yours is broken in such a way that that won't work, of course.
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Jun 9, 2010 18:58
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CornHolio posted:I'm pretty sure on my E36 there is a removeable panel in front of the sunroof that has a mechanical open/close something-or-another in it. I'm pretty sure it's there to close it if it breaks in the open position, but I don't see why you couldn't use it to open the sunroof. It is. I tried the allen wrench hole months ago. One side of the sunroof moves and the other doesn't.
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Jun 9, 2010 19:05
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