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Reginald Garibaldi posted:Ok judging from the mixed bag of comments I think i'll shave them down a little but not too much to allow for more variety and customization. People will buy resin bases whose master was made with three bits of slate and some ballast, so yes they will almost certainly buy casts of nicely made cobblestone bases. Fyrbrand posted:I read a tutorial at some point that used plaster of paris (some kind of putty might work too). They put down a thin layer, then carved the cobble shapes into that. I've seen it done with plaster on round-edged bases, which have that raised edge. For GW style bases you'd need to use some sort of epoxy putty (grey/green stuff/milliput/etc.) because plaster, polyfilla etc. will flake off way too easily. Possibly some types of pre-mixed plaster might be less prone to flaking.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:19
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Reginald Garibaldi posted:So I've been trying to make up a base that looks like a cobbled or brick floor for some fantasy minis. I think I've finally got it! Pictures are below and I'm just waiting for goon approval before I make a bunch more. Fill the cracks with superglue, throw baking soda over it. Done crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 22:52
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Hey PV or Zarkov...PaintVagrant posted:In a moment of madness earlier today I found myself hacking a hole in a dreadnought base with my low-quality dremel-style rotary tool thing. This has gone well, as has the cleaning up of mangled melted edges, gluing on chunks of bark and slate and filling of gaps with putty. Now I am curious, how much detailing was put into the bottom of the pool? Obviously it's hidden behind tinted water but I'm wondering. I'm probably going to do clear water as it'll be for the distinctly non-war-torn forest base theme that my incredibly slowly developing Crimson Fists force uses. Also I haven't mentioned how loving awesome that dreadnought is yet.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:02
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The bottom of the pool has a thin layer of clump foliage with a bit of devlan mud splashed on it, then the "water" was poured on top of that.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:07
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So the water is actually colourless and it's the foliage that's providing the green? It's incorrect assumptions day for me.
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Jun 7, 2010 23:19
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Nice Ikea display cabinet on sale for 60$. I use it with these lights and it works great. Here's an picture from a few months ago. 
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Jun 7, 2010 23:38
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Shallow posted:So the water is actually colourless and it's the foliage that's providing the green? It's incorrect assumptions day for me. You are (in)correct!
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Jun 8, 2010 00:33
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Aegoceros posted:My question is if any of you much better painters have any idea how to get that kind of green? I have access to Citadel, Vallejo, and P3 easily, so whatever mix would work. It's actually pretty close to the kinds of teal/turquoise that my case painting was. If you check a few pages back, you'll see what I mean. Looks like you can get the effect you are looking for with trollblood base and a bit of hawk turquoise mixed in, maybe 3:1, then highlight with trollblood base, then highlight with underbelly blue/trollblood base 1:1. You may want PV to look over what I'm talking about before committing to it, because whereas I believe I know what I'm talking about, he actually does. 
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Jun 8, 2010 04:00
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Toussaint Louverture posted:Nice Ikea display cabinet on sale for 60$. I'm probably going to get this one Wednesday:  http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00093136 My current organization method of "random poo poo in ramdom GW boxes" just isn't cutting it anymore.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:22
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I'm probably going to get this one Wednesday: Thanks for linking this one man, it's pretty much exactly what I was looking for, to put in my nerd den once I move. The other one is nice but had so much wasted vertical space.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:29
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The Detolf has a lot of wasted vertical space, but the Bertby is less money efficient - about 3 square inches less per dollar.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:40
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I play warhammer space dollies, "money efficient" is not in my vocabulary.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:43
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Sole.Sushi posted:It's actually pretty close to the kinds of teal/turquoise that my case painting was. If you check a few pages back, you'll see what I mean. Looks like you can get the effect you are looking for with trollblood base and a bit of hawk turquoise mixed in, maybe 3:1, then highlight with trollblood base, then highlight with underbelly blue/trollblood base 1:1. You may want PV to look over what I'm talking about before committing to it, because whereas I believe I know what I'm talking about, he actually does. I saw that case earlier today. Not sure why I didn't think of that when I'm posting in the same thread. I was staring at the colors/what I have a bit, and it looks more than a bit like Vallejo Foul Green would be a pretty good go at that color. Also, I am totally stealing your rust recipe for my Rhinos.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:47
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Aegoceros posted:I saw that case earlier today. Not sure why I didn't think of that when I'm posting in the same thread. I don't have any VGC or VMC, so I couldn't tell you if Vallejo Foul Green would work, but have at it with the rust. 
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Jun 8, 2010 04:56
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Fyrbrand posted:Thanks for linking this one man, it's pretty much exactly what I was looking for, to put in my nerd den once I move. The other one is nice but had so much wasted vertical space. I'm actually planning on rigging up some half-shelves to go in between the others, to give it more shelve space.
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Jun 8, 2010 04:58
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a great display option for cheap is to go to one of those hodgepodge auction houses that specialize in liquidating people's garbage and bidding on a lawyers/legal bookcase basically a bunch of shelves with glass doors on the front that swing up and slide back in like a garage door. I got one intact that was probably a couple hundred dollars when it was new for ~50 bucks. the best part about these auction places is that even if you don't see exactly what you need there is a million other things that will do the job and can be yours if you are willing to outbid a couple hoarders looking to score more useless furniture on the cheap. Aetilus fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jun 8, 2010 |
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Jun 8, 2010 06:50
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I'm probably going to get this one Wednesday: I wish there was a freestanding version of this rather than one that needs to be fixed to the wall.
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Jun 8, 2010 12:17
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I wish there was a freestanding version of this rather than one that needs to be fixed to the wall. I have a freestanding case that looks very similar, its kind of inbetween that and the glass case posted earlier in terms of size. I managed to find it on the site It's a little more expensive that the all-glass case, but the shelf height is better. The downside is that its not well lit, so you would either need to install a push-light or something, or settle for your nerd trophies being less illuminated.
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Jun 8, 2010 12:27
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In the US that cabinet is a shoe-holder.
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Jun 8, 2010 12:37
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MasterSlowPoke posted:The Detolf has a lot of wasted vertical space, but the Bertby is less money efficient - about 3 square inches less per dollar. This can easily be fixed by getting a few acrylic risers from retail display sellers. When mine fills up some more, I'm going to get a size that creates another "shelf" on each level, set back and a little less than halfway up each shelf. They will need some non slip strips on the bottom, as I find that opening / closing the door on the thing makes my mens jitter around like mad.
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Jun 8, 2010 14:49
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Aegoceros posted:So, I'm getting back around to painting my Plague Marines, and I came across this really excellent green in the White Dwarf Archive of the Chaos Space Marine Tactica Its definitely not a paint you will find in a bottle, but if you mix snot/iosan/sick green with white or MWH, then add a touch of a blue tone like trollblood base or shadow grey I THINK that would do it. Probably just mix up with MWH for highlights, it looks pretty creamy
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Jun 8, 2010 15:17
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PaintVagrant posted:Its definitely not a paint you will find in a bottle, but if you mix snot/iosan/sick green with white or MWH, then add a touch of a blue tone like trollblood base or shadow grey I THINK that would do it. I did a test swab before bed last night to see how this would dry, and I think you are right. The foul/sick green needs a touch of blue and a bit of lightening. I'll be paintsperimenting later this afternoon, so we'll see how it goes. 
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Jun 8, 2010 15:54
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  Landing craft style Trukk conversion; proof of concept. None of the main components are glued in place, so it's not beyond the point of no return if you guys think it looks poo poo. Do people like/dislike?
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Jun 8, 2010 20:22
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I like it but maybe some taller walls on the side? Might need to grab that sheet plastic.
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Jun 8, 2010 20:39
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You might have some annoyance with the gunner trying to see poo poo but it looks good otherwise.
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Jun 8, 2010 20:41
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NecronSchmecron posted:I like it but maybe some taller walls on the side? Might need to grab that sheet plastic. Yeah, that's something I have planned already. I also think I'll combine the two ramps into one large one (and cut it down to a shorter length), if it'll allow me. Someone in the other thread mentioned the cab could be raised a bit, so I'll put some plasticard under it to do that.
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Jun 8, 2010 20:43
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Basing Question! For my Space Crusade minis, I was thinking of doing the bases up like metal corridors. My plan is thus: Cut out circles of plasticard to match the tops of the bases, cut them into uneven quarters at right angles and sand the edges so that there's a bit of a gap between the tiles. Then they'd be painted black undercoat, gunmetal on the tiles, badab black over that. Top-down it should look a bit like this, only not crappy:  Is this a mad plan, or does it have a chance of working?
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Jun 8, 2010 20:52
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Sounds like it would work to me. I did something sort of like that, except with layers, on my inf nomads (the pic sucks, sorry)
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Jun 8, 2010 20:56
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Sounds about right. When I ever get around doing an army with tech bases, I think I'm going to follow this tutorial: http://thefortressmonastery.blogspot.com/2009/09/all-your-base-space-hulk-themed.html
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Jun 8, 2010 20:56
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Awesome stuff. I'll probably do some hazard stripes on some of the tiles, blood splatters, grime like in that tutorial and similar little details to make the bases more interesting. Or at least, what I can do with the starter paint set plus a couple washes and one sheet of plasticard. I haven't done anything of this sort in over a decade, so I don't want to get too fancy.
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Jun 8, 2010 21:46
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Captain Hats posted:..I don't want to get too fancy. To hell with that, throw yourself into it 
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Jun 8, 2010 22:05
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Aside from a few touchups and bits i've forgotten to paint that I've noticed in the photos this guy is done. If anyone remembers I've been painting models and doing a new technique on each one to try and teach myself all the gimmicks and whizbangs that you good painters use. Tried NMM for the first time, some bits worked and some didnt. If I did it again I think I could do everything a bit better but it really was excellent practice for blending so it was worth all the effort. I do the cheaty method on gems so they'll get the shine when its varnished.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Jun 8, 2010 23:16
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Thats really solid for a first attempt, NMM gold is hard
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Jun 8, 2010 23:18
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PaintVagrant posted:Thats really solid for a first attempt, NMM gold is hard Tell me about it. The silver halo by comparison was just so easy. The hardest thing I found was actually getting it to look, you know, gold. Once I figured out that the fake shine was all down to contrasts that bit got easier, but getting it to look gold was a excercise in frustration and many many different wash mixes.
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Jun 8, 2010 23:27
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Seriously that model looks great and you are a great person for painting it that well.
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Jun 8, 2010 23:56
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FractionMan posted:Yeah, that's something I have planned already. I also think I'll combine the two ramps into one large one (and cut it down to a shorter length), if it'll allow me. Someone in the other thread mentioned the cab could be raised a bit, so I'll put some plasticard under it to do that. I'd be careful cutting the ramp shorter, you don't want it too short. Is there any way you can lower the body of the trukk? Particularly if you're going to raise the sides/cab - it might look a bit top heavy, plus modelling for disadvantage. Hell, even if you just cut holes in the floor and drop it over the wheels, I think it would look suitably orky. edit: Bhyo, that Sanguinor looks awesome.
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Jun 9, 2010 01:10
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QUESTION: If i wanted to convert a typical tamiya/dragon scale CAR model (not a tank) into a warhammer vehicle, what would be the best scale? Seeing as it will be Orks, it can be a little on the large side to accomadate the Orks having built it to their size. Something around Trukk size would be good.
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Jun 9, 2010 04:28
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Tentacle Party posted:QUESTION: If i wanted to convert a typical tamiya/dragon scale CAR model (not a tank) into a warhammer vehicle, what would be the best scale? Seeing as it will be Orks, it can be a little on the large side to accomadate the Orks having built it to their size. Something around Trukk size would be good. You're turning a Hummer into a Trukk, aren't you?
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Jun 9, 2010 04:45
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Tentacle Party posted:QUESTION: If i wanted to convert a typical tamiya/dragon scale CAR model (not a tank) into a warhammer vehicle, what would be the best scale? Seeing as it will be Orks, it can be a little on the large side to accomadate the Orks having built it to their size. Something around Trukk size would be good. 1:35
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Jun 9, 2010 04:51
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Sole.Sushi posted:You're turning a Hummer into a Trukk, aren't you? I would have to be MAD... edit- well I could only find a diecast version of what i wanted, but I have found the printable PAPER MODEL in 1:20. So screw it, it will be a bit big, but paper will be awesome to make the right sized plasticard panels! Oh wait, maybe I can scale it down at the printer/gimp??? Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jun 9, 2010 |
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Jun 9, 2010 05:03
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