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Black88GTA posted:Yeah, reading through that list...it becomes apparent that this guy is the "put gas in it and steer" type. From that repair history, it seems that car hasn't had any PM in the entire time he owned it - he just waited for stuff to break. But can 4 radiator replacements in 4 years really be excused?
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Jun 14, 2010 06:34
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kimbo305 posted:But can 4 radiator replacements in 4 years really be excused? Something tells me that (and probably many of those repairs) is the result of the dealer seeing that guy coming a mile away, and doing what stealerships do best. I have a feeling 2 of those radiators were completely unnecessary, and just thrown in by the dealer to pad their payout. Look at this guy's repair history. Complete mechanical retardation? Check. History of writing a blank check to dealer for work done in the past? Check. They probably threw every part that could even be remotely related to the apparent problem they could find at it every time this guy came in the door because they knew he'd pay up without asking questions. He never knew the difference because he isn't savvy enough to even begin to figure any of this poo poo out on his own. Dealers love customers like this. Even if all of those radiators were necessary, the fact that he went through four of them would indicate either him getting defective parts (not the car's fault), or some other undiagnosed issue that was causing premature failure of the radiators. Maybe a bad radiator cap or head gasket causing overpressure, etc.
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Jun 14, 2010 07:33
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Black88GTA posted:Maybe a bad radiator cap or head gasket causing overpressure, etc. Which in fact there was -- a recall on a drat radiator cap! I know the guy bought a 17 year-old top of the line luxury car, but I can understand to some degree that he wouldn't expect certain things to go wrong with it, like the windshield seal coming out on the highway, or the control module malfunctioning. Even if the dealership was taking him for a ride, there were pervasive issues that they couldn't fix.
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Jun 14, 2010 07:49
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Brock Landers posted:In a word: unreliable. Probably one of the most unreliable BMWs ever made. The motors and drivetrains are tough, but everything else falls apart around them. Check out this site for one guys story: http://my750.com/mystory.htm Huh? An E32 is pretty much an E34, and I wouldn't classify those as unreliable. I'm pretty certain the fundamentals of the M70 engine (block, heads, etc.) are solid, although I'm sure the engine electronics and related parts might be quirky and will give more problems than an I6. I also agree with Black88GTA, looks like the guy paid for 100% original parts ($$$$$) and at high-priced repair shop that charged extra just because it was a 750. If you can do the work yourself, and have more patience to diagnose faults so you don't replace stuff unnecessarily, you can do it for a fraction of what he paid. All in all, in my opinion, it's just a bad idea to own an old car with such advanced levels of equipment and options if you can't work on them yourself. I certainly want to own a V12 one day, just because, and I wouldn't be afraid of an E32 750. It is though, to be reasonable and economical, pointless if you're looking for performance and large-engine feel, because you can get an E34 540 with a 286hp V8, in a car that weighs less, instead of an E32 750 with a 300hp V12. But hey, V12!!!
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Jun 14, 2010 09:02
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Black88GTA posted:Something tells me that (and probably many of those repairs) is the result of the dealer seeing that guy coming a mile away, and doing what stealerships do best. I have a feeling 2 of those radiators were completely unnecessary, and just thrown in by the dealer to pad their payout. Look at this guy's repair history. Complete mechanical retardation? Check. History of writing a blank check to dealer for work done in the past? Check. They probably threw every part that could even be remotely related to the apparent problem they could find at it every time this guy came in the door because they knew he'd pay up without asking questions. He never knew the difference because he isn't savvy enough to even begin to figure any of this poo poo out on his own. Dealers love customers like this. I will agree that this guy's experience is extreme, but the E32 750i was not a reliable car by any stretch. Mike Miller (tech writer for Roundel and Bimmer) describes them as "mechanics cars" meaning you should be a dealer tech if you're considering owning one. They are indeed like an E34, but the E32 came out before the E34 and was kind of a "first generation" version of it. Most of the electrical bugs in the E32 were solved by the time the E34 came out. Can you find a reliable E32? Yes. The 735i with a manual (rare in the US) is a good example. All the electricals might not work, but the car will start and run forever as long as you change the oil.
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Jun 14, 2010 12:13
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Pilsner posted:It is though, to be reasonable and economical, pointless if you're looking for performance and large-engine feel, because you can get an E34 540 with a 286hp V8, in a car that weighs less, instead of an E32 750 with a 300hp V12. But hey, V12!!! I agree with this guy. When I was looking for a BMW I checked out a 750iL that was in good shape and I really liked it until I hit the gas. Smooth as silk but I couldn't stand that gas mileage for something that is slower and harder to handle than a new Corrola.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:51
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Lowclock posted:I agree with this guy. When I was looking for a BMW I checked out a 750iL that was in good shape and I really liked it until I hit the gas. Smooth as silk but I couldn't stand that gas mileage for something that is slower and harder to handle than a new Corrola. I'll agree with it's bad handling, but it certainly shouldn't have felt slow. I had an E32 740il, and that thing was quicker than balls.Luckily, I sold it to get my current E46, and two weeks later the Trans light came on in the E32. I felt bad for the guy, but luckily it was a failed resistor of some sort in the tranny. The onyl problem that car ever gave me was the rear intake manifold plate gasket going. It dumps oils into the engine, and makes you think you've blown a ring or something if you're not aware of this plate. $40 bucks and 6 hours later, never had a motor problem until the day I sold it.
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Jun 14, 2010 20:36
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Got to autocross the m3 again this past weekend. just want to say how much I love this car and whore it out a bit. 112,000 miles. it's now owned by it's third autocrosser and it's still going strong.  Click here for the full 720x478 image.
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Jun 14, 2010 20:58
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Anyone know a place to pick up the SMG hydraulic pump for an e85/Z4? Dealer MSRP is $3,800 and I can't find it for under $3,000.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:01
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OrangeFurious posted:Anyone know a place to pick up the SMG hydraulic pump for an e85/Z4? Dealer MSRP is $3,800 and I can't find it for under $3,000. getbmwparts.com is my go to source for parts.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:15
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Yeah, I checked them out. They are asking the same $3k as my dealership.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:24
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Pelican parts? Azautohaus? Rmeuropean?
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Jun 14, 2010 21:33
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Minimaul posted:Got to autocross the m3 again this past weekend. just want to say how much I love this car and whore it out a bit. 112,000 miles. it's now owned by it's third autocrosser and it's still going strong. I feel the same kind of pride whenever I drive the living piss out of one of my E36s. The car is just so well mannered and rewarding to drive at the limit.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:34
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Lowclock posted:I agree with this guy. When I was looking for a BMW I checked out a 750iL that was in good shape and I really liked it until I hit the gas. Smooth as silk but I couldn't stand that gas mileage for something that is slower and harder to handle than a new Corrola. Depends on where you live, a Corolla in Europe is a slow economy car and will get stomped by any V8 or V12 BMW. There is absolutely no "regular" car in Europe that does 0-60 in less than 9 seconds, and most people buy 11s+ ones with an <1.6l engine. Anything above 1.8l these days is considered a bit exotic, and anything from 3.0l and up will have people drop their jaws, at least here in lovely Denmark, and we're a pretty wealthy country too. And quite frankly, who cares about gas mileage when you're buying a V8 or V12. I'm honestly a bit tired of even hearing about gas mileage as a complaint when talking about these cars. I get 7-10 city MPG in my 540 and I just don't give a drat, floor it every chance I get  .
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Jun 14, 2010 21:36
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I think the biggest reason not to go with the 750 over a 740 or a 540 or something is because the V12 is a lot more complicated/parts are a lot more expensive and gets what? 15 more horsepower or something in the passenger car trim?
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Jun 14, 2010 21:42
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Minimaul posted:Got to autocross the m3 again this past weekend. just want to say how much I love this car and whore it out a bit. 112,000 miles. it's now owned by it's third autocrosser and it's still going strong. M3 are the best cars ever made. You should look into detailing the hell out of that thing or learning how. Headlights would look so much better with a quick wet sand. Also like how your car is so bad rear end it knocks cones over before it gets to them. (Never autocrossed so I have no idea what is up with those.)
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Jun 14, 2010 21:52
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VibrioCholera posted:(Never autocrossed so I have no idea what is up with those.) The cones are forced to kowtow to great cars as they go by, lest they be run over and split open or dragged for some distance.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:58
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OrangeFurious posted:Yeah, I checked them out. They are asking the same $3k as my dealership. I figure E85s are too new to be in any junkyards, but they have to go somewhere when they're totalled out, right? Maybe check Bavarian Auto Recyclers (though I hear they don't have a good reputation) or places similar to that.
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Jun 14, 2010 22:08
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Thanks for the advice, all. So far most places don't have the part or are asking more than the dealership. Damned SMGs.
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Jun 14, 2010 23:07
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Sterndotstern posted:I feel the same kind of pride whenever I drive the living piss out of one of my E36s. The car is just so well mannered and rewarding to drive at the limit. For sure. VibrioCholera posted:M3 are the best cars ever made. You should look into detailing the hell out of that thing or learning how. Headlights would look so much better with a quick wet sand. Hell yeah, love the M3's. The car has definitely been driven hard for many years. I'm not too worried about making it showroom quality, or car-show-winning-clean. I bought this car to drive. And drive it I shall. I still have my GTI that's nice and clean and low and slow. I claybarred and waxed it about 2-3 weeks ago and all that did was show off how dinged up it really was. haha. Maybe someday I'll clean the lights or get new ones but it'd look kind of weird to me having a dinged up, dirty black car with nice clean shiny headlights. totally busted out a fog light that day at the autocross too. Nailed a cone then heard a dragging sound. Thought I was dragging a cone, turned out it was my passenger side fog light. Guess it happens often in these cars. I'll pick up some fog covers and zip tie 'em in that way I don't have to worry about it happening again. Cause they'll get beat to hell in winter too. With all the cones I hit at that event I'm sure all the other cones were scared of me so they laid down in fear! Those ones are pointer cones showing where to go, so they're supposed to be like that.
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Jun 14, 2010 23:21
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Great. I think I found out why my steering's been feeling loose and why my wheels feel like they have some play in them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3IzGUzmADc skip to 0:40 It seems my LCAB is torn. Here's the problem: I bought these from RMeuropean.com and had a dealership install them. I tried and failed but that was on the passenger side. I never touched the driver side. Either the parts are defective or the dealership messed them up somehow or never installed the new one on this side. The control arms on this side definitely were replaced, however. Bushings were OEM brand. How should I approach this? I brought the parts to the dealer so they're going to say it was bad parts, but if this is the case could I get rmeuropean to reimburse me for parts and labor?
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Jun 15, 2010 01:25
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OrangeFurious posted:Thanks for the advice, all. So far most places don't have the part or are asking more than the dealership. Are you planning on replacing it yourself to save labor costs?
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Jun 15, 2010 01:49
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The bushing from RMEuro might have unique markings different from the stock bushings. Check em out. Then light the dealer up.
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Jun 15, 2010 02:00
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Beach Bum posted:The bushing from RMEuro might have unique markings different from the stock bushings. Check em out. Then light the dealer up. I don't have any stock bushings to check them against. I checked, and the bushings are Febi brand.
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Jun 15, 2010 02:18
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Brock Landers posted:Are you planning on replacing it yourself to save labor costs? It's crossed my mind, though I don't know how difficult the job is on a Z4. It looks pretty straight forward on the E46 M3, but that's a different layout and an SMGII. My absolute cheapest option seems to be a $400 rebuild kit from BMW and DIY. I'm still fighting the warranty company though, so hopefully it doesn't come down to that. OrangeFurious fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Jun 15, 2010 |
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Jun 15, 2010 10:50
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Any battery recommendations for an E30? otherwise, I was just going to go to Autozone and buy the battery they recommended... Duralast 47-DL
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Jun 15, 2010 16:44
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What's the normal fuel economy you E36 I6 guys are getting? I filled my 325iS for the first time today since the day I bought it, and I was pretty pleased to see 27mpg.
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Jun 15, 2010 17:06
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Imperador do Brasil posted:What's the normal fuel economy you E36 I6 guys are getting? I filled my 325iS for the first time today since the day I bought it, and I was pretty pleased to see 27mpg. ...17mpg
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Jun 15, 2010 17:21
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Imperador do Brasil posted:What's the normal fuel economy you E36 I6 guys are getting? I filled my 325iS for the first time today since the day I bought it, and I was pretty pleased to see 27mpg. ~23-24 in the city, as high as 32 on the highway (calculated, not going by the OBC). In combined city/highway driving my OBC usually reads 26.4.
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Jun 15, 2010 17:35
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:...17mpg Same. You must do a lot of highway driving if you're getting 27mpg
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Jun 15, 2010 18:08
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fartingfool posted:Intake boot, fuel lines, fuel filter are all less than a year old. I hear the pump whirring away. These are words of encouragement for it being fuel related though. Is it possible to still have a distinct smell of gas and foglike exhaust if it's not getting fuel correctly? As a follow-up, I ended up fixing the problem finally. I believe it to be a combination of the fuel-injectors being dirty and faulty Oxygen sensor readings. I got my injectors back and the can ran much better, but now it only missed after getting warmed up. For the heck of it, I unplugged my oxygen sensor from the engine bay this time and the car has been running perfect since. Rockauto.com has replacement sensors for about $20-25. On the other hand I just picked up an e36 93' 325i for $1300 with a toast clutch. The clutch isn't what I'm curious about. It's the outside temperature sensor. The sensor was missing completely and I got a new one and connected it to a brwn/orange stripe and brwn/blue stripe wires dangling above where the driver brake duct was supposed to be. The car still doesn't read above -35, even with shorting these two wires directly. What would cause this? Where does this wire go, to the OBC directly? I also have the cold weather package, but that temperature sensor (passenger side) is of a completely different style. Could that sensor throw it off?
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Jun 15, 2010 18:42
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Picking up an 89 325iS this Friday. It's got a Wilwood BBK, 15" lightweight wheels, and Cosmo coilovers. I want to AutoX the thing, but I've heard bad news about the strength of the coilover kit. Am I gonna need to dig out the old suspension setup from my 318i to AutoX?
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Jun 15, 2010 19:01
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revmoo posted:Same. You must do a lot of highway driving if you're getting 27mpg Mixed city/country/highway driving, actually. This was calculated at the pump. I put 255 miles on it and the tank took 9.519 gallons after a top-off (26.78mpg after topping off). I don't feel like I am pussyfooting around, either. I had several days where I ripped through the gears because my son wanted to know how fast the car is (he's 4 years old).
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Jun 15, 2010 20:27
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Modded 91 318iS average mpg 25-27, got 32mpg over memorial day weekend stomping the poo poo out it across the north cascade highway.
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Jun 15, 2010 21:11
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BraveUlysses posted:Modded 91 318iS average mpg 25-27, got 32mpg over memorial day weekend stomping the poo poo out it across the north cascade highway. Similar car, I was getting 22-24 mpg for the past couple of years that I owned it. Put some redline fuel injector cleaner in there and I got 27. I figured it was a fluke, but I have not used the injector cleaner since then and for the past two fill-ups I have calculated 26mpg. Just suprised it actually seemed to work.
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Jun 15, 2010 21:20
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:...17mpg I get that in an I6.... 98 Jeep Wrangler. Something does not compute with your car. Scrubed fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jun 16, 2010 |
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Jun 16, 2010 00:35
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Scrubed posted:I get that in an I6.... 98 Jeep Wrangler. Something does not compute with your car. Seriously - my 88 iX got around 17-19mpg. My e36 seems to be mid to high 20s depending on the amount of city driving.
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Jun 16, 2010 01:15
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Non-Vanos = a few less mpg than the cars that had Vanos.
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Jun 16, 2010 04:12
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the waterpump just went on my e46(no surprise) so I get to spend tomorrow pulling the core. My neighbour has a nice BMW collection and an E34 for sale thats really tempting me right now.
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Jun 16, 2010 05:29
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BMW e30 - the brake warning light is on, and I've been told that this is almost certainly due to a faulty brake sensor. They seem very cheap to buy, but how do I know which one to replace? Or do I do all four at the same time? Thanks
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Jun 16, 2010 18:25
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