|
Haven't followed this thread so I hope this isn't too much of a repeat. How good/bad are the W8 passats? I've heard rumors of engines going bad at 80k, is this common? How fiendishly complicated is routine maintenance? Do you have to pull the engine to replace spark plugs? What are the major service intervals and is there official VW service documentation available to make it possible for a generally competent mechanic like myself to perform that service?
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2010 18:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 14:36 |
|
|
What should I do with this? I was thinking of stripping out the interior and rollcage, but other than that no strong ideas come to mind.quote:2001 GTi 1.8T. 160k on the shell. 60k on the motor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2010 19:10
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Haven't followed this thread so I hope this isn't too much of a repeat. The W8 engine is pretty rare in my area so I have very limited experience with them. I can tell you that replacing the plugs isn't too bad but you DO have to pull the upper intake manifold off to do it. That sounds terrible but it's not that bad to do. Most of the routine maintenance stuff is doable but more time-consuming then usual. Try calling your local VW dealer for service interval information - they should be able to help you. Your local dealership's parts department should be able to order shop manuals in DVD form.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2010 22:36
|
|
|
Sigma X posted:What should I do with this? I was thinking of stripping out the interior and rollcage, but other than that no strong ideas come to mind. Given the list of mods and parts, it looks like a track rat so I'd be gutting the interior and caging it for sure. If you plan on it being a DD then I'd say maybe some really sticky rubber (if you don't already have it). Obviously you can change up turbos and re-tune or maybe look at knife-edging the crank but your setup looks like it's pretty much maxed out otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2010 22:42
|
|
|
Any thoughts on the value of Audi's CPO program? I am shopping for a replacement to my totaled 335i (coupe, which was a CPO) and I've always loved the TT, but like all German imports I fear the repair bill. Is it true the CPO warranty cannot be transferred to the next owner? Also, any major issues to avoid with the TT mk2 (Looking at 2008, but unsure on 2.0 vs. 3.2)? The dual clutch transmission has me very excited, but there is a cheap 3.2 quattro in manual nearby that is tempting -- how's that transmission fair to the DSG? I will finally get to go test drive some this weekend so I am anxious to see how it'll feel compared to my BMW.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2010 13:17
|
|
|
King-Kong posted:Any thoughts on the value of Audi's CPO program? I am shopping for a replacement to my totaled 335i (coupe, which was a CPO) and I've always loved the TT, but like all German imports I fear the repair bill. Due to the cost of parts and the complexity of the vehicles I would never purchase an Audi product without CPO. As to whether CPO coverage can be transferred to the next owner, I'm not sure - it's a little outside my expertise but I can find out for you on Monday and post what I find out. Off-hand I can't think of any specific problems with the TT. I'd stay away from the 2.0T engine if you can - the 3.2 has a little more grunt and doesn't suffer any of the oil burning problems we've seen on the various 2.0T engines. I really like the CVT tranmission from a driving standpoint - the shifts are so fast - but I occasionally hear about failures in the clutches. On the other hand, I've seen lots of DSG transmission failures so that's also something to consider. The TT is a pretty fun drive, especially since the newer engines are more powerful then the 185/225 HP 1.8T engines they were originally available with. If you're coming from a BMW, I'd also suggest you check out the A5/S5 - it's a beautiful car and in S-trim it's got lots of power.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2010 15:31
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Due to the cost of parts and the complexity of the vehicles I would never purchase an Audi product without CPO. As to whether CPO coverage can be transferred to the next owner, I'm not sure - it's a little outside my expertise but I can find out for you on Monday and post what I find out. I test drove a 2009 2.0T quattro a few hours ago and absolutely loved it. In a straight line it wasn't anywhere close to as powerful as my 335i was, but I actually like the TT more. I felt it was more composed, and I loved how the cockpit sucked me in, versus the larger interior of the 335i. It felt sportier without the actual horse power... kind of an odd experience. I also test drove a g37 sport right before, and what a disappointment that was. Really lacked refinement in it's execution. On the way to the dealership, I was afraid I would dislike the TT and would be back in a 335i... now I'm in love. I will be sure to stick to the CPO's and will try to find a 3.2 in my price range (though right now I'm not finding any). Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2010 23:47
|
|
|
Anybody have some good prices on 1.6l NA Headgaskets with solid lifters? I'm getting prices between $25 and $35. I'd like to replace the head-bolts with something a little more sturdy as well, any recommendations? I was looking at ARPA racing studs
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 02:22
|
|
|
Hope this is an appropriate place to post this. I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro, about 110k miles on it. I was on my way to run an errand this afternoon, and while trying to back out of my parking spot I noticed that the power steering was "catching" and making noise. It seems that the hydraulic line that runs underneath the front of the car must have caught on something at some point. It's hanging down from underneath the front bumper and leaking fluid. Strangely enough, my wife drove it an hour before and didn't report any problems nor does she remember hitting any potholes or anything like that. Some pictures:  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Two questions: 1) Does it look like this repair is going to be more than just replacing the hydraulic line and refilling the fluid? 2) What would you estimate the cost of this to be (in terms of parts and hours in labor)? I'm going to call the repair shop first thing Monday but I want to go into it a bit more informed than I have for past repairs. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 02:30
|
|
|
vanilla slimfast posted:Hope this is an appropriate place to post this. Ummm, that looks like a Transmission Oil Cooler line...is yours an automatic? Anyways, if the power steering pump is burned from fluid loss and heat, then you'll have to have that replaced as well CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 13, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 02:37
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Ummm, that looks like a Transmission Oil Cooler line...is yours an automatic? Sorry should have clarified, it's a manual (5 speed)
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 02:51
|
|
|
vanilla slimfast posted:Sorry should have clarified, it's a manual (5 speed) Okay, well have them replace the line, then have them run up the car and make sure the power steering pump is running properly. If not you'll need a new one
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 02:53
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:I know it's been discussed all over the interwebs but coolant migration is very, very rare. In frequent round table discussions with techs from dealerships all over Ontario I've only heard of 3-4 cases of coolant migration in the past 3 years or so. It IS terrible when it does happen but it's far from a common enough complaint to think it's at fault here. It's certainly possible but there's so many other, more common things it could be. i had it in my old TDI, killed everything from the cluster down to the speed sensor
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2010 08:28
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Can the dealer do something about the upper center console rattles you have? Usually. The problem is who will be paying for it. If you have some warranty coverage and you've got less than 30,000 kms (IIRC) then the dealership should repair the rattle at no charge. If you don't have coverage it's not that hard to take that console down and have a look to see what's making the noise. Call your dealership and see what they say - if they won't help you then post back here and I'll give you the steps to remove the console on your own. Just to get back to this one, I finally scheduled a time to get that rattle and the rear washer taken care of - how do you guys normally go about fixing a rattle like that one? Once again, it seems to be the glass light dome housing (rattle stops when I push it up a bit, so it's just a little loose). I'm assuming this can be done by adding some foam or felt tape? Just want to figure out if dealership is loving around on this or not.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 20:57
|
|
|
Autism Sundae posted:Just to get back to this one, I finally scheduled a time to get that rattle and the rear washer taken care of - how do you guys normally go about fixing a rattle like that one? Once again, it seems to be the glass light dome housing (rattle stops when I push it up a bit, so it's just a little loose). I'm assuming this can be done by adding some foam or felt tape? Just want to figure out if dealership is loving around on this or not. There's a VW-specific anti-rattle kit that has all kinds of flock, double-sided tape and assorted sound-deadening stuff and that's what we usually use to kill squeaks and rattles. They'll proably take the dome light down and attempt to isolate the noise. Make sure you have the chance to demonstrate your complaint to the tech that'll be working on your car - sometimes information gets lost between the service advisor and the shop.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 22:45
|
|
|
Ever since I had my new stereo put in driver's door rattles now. My car used to be so quiet until I had people take it apart. It's always fun finding extra screws in the floorboard after having the car worked on too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 23:40
|
|
|
I recently acquired a 1999.5 2.0 automatic Jetta. Just passed 100k driving it into work today, everythings great on it aside from the fact that it will almost always take two cranks to start, pumping gas while turning the key will get it to start on the first crank sometimes. Everytime after the car does start theres a loud squeal sound, aside from when I start it after filling up. Is this something that would be relatively easy(cheap) to fix for somebody with limited under the hood knowledge. I've been tempted to take it into a euro autoparts shop here in town that did good work on my old e34 but if I could fix this myself I'd much rather do that. Secondly, I had to jump start it the other day and since then the cd changer will not play, the tape deck and fm still work but when I hit cd on the deck, it just sits at "cd 1 track 1" and doesn't move. Is this just a blown fuse or is the entire cd changer fried?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 00:18
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Ever since I had my new stereo put in driver's door rattles now. My car used to be so quiet until I had people take it apart. It's always fun finding extra screws in the floorboard after having the car worked on too. This is exactly why I hate going back to the dealership for rattles and TSBs, but I don't want to do something on my own and have that ruin the warranty somehow :I
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 04:16
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Sorry, yeah - you've got 2 electric fans in the shroud plus a viscous coupled fan. The viscous fan operates when the engine RPMs are high enough to thicken the fluid inside the coupler thus spinning the fan. If you have the car's engine off with the key on and you turn on the A/C can you hear the noise you're worried about? The A/C causes the 2 electric (also really drat loud) fans to go on, but the noise I'm worried about is separate. I'm pretty sure it's the viscous fan at this point, but I don't think it's supposed to be so drat loud.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 04:56
|
|
|
Do you have any advice on changing a water pump in a Mark IV VR6? I noticed a small coolant leak and it's coming from the pump area so it's time to change it out. It could be the crack pipe as well but I won't know until I tear into it. Car is an '01 GTI with 87k miles. I'm going to change out the belt tensioner as well. If you have anything that will save me time or aggravation, I'm all ears/eyes. Thanks! (edit: oddly enough it's not leaking anymore and I have no clue what I did. I'm still changing it out this weekend though) wav3form fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jun 15, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 11:16
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:There's a VW-specific anti-rattle kit that has all kinds of flock, double-sided tape and assorted sound-deadening stuff and that's what we usually use to kill squeaks and rattles. They'll proably take the dome light down and attempt to isolate the noise. Make sure you have the chance to demonstrate your complaint to the tech that'll be working on your car - sometimes information gets lost between the service advisor and the shop. :/ They didn't do poo poo since the tech couldn't duplicate the noise. This is just getting irritating, I understand why they refuse to do it but I find it hard to believe that they couldn't hear it... Could you please post the instructions on taking down the dome light? Hopefully it's something I can do on my own without going back and forth between dealerships. There's also a dome light that's similar to the one up front right above the passenger seats, I hear a rattle from there that's very similar but can't really check. Oh yeah, another question before I forget again - how can I adjust the height of the rubber bump stops for the hatch (they're right above the tail lights on the MKVI)? Just want to check something Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jun 17, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 01:05
|
|
|
My colleague told me that the MKVIs in NA have more flashing protection, and require modifying the ECU before they can be flashed through the ODB port. Is that true?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 07:11
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:My colleague told me that the MKVIs in NA have more flashing protection, and require modifying the ECU before they can be flashed through the ODB port. Is that true? Yeah the US ones are encrypted and the only way to decrypt it is to get to the ECU. They have to remove a couple security bolts and then the ECU box is glued shut or something as well. From what I read most APR installers will cut the security bolts and then just put new ones on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 07:46
|
|
|
vanilla slimfast posted:Hope this is an appropriate place to post this. Took the car in, it was just a matter of replacing the cooler (which is I guess what was actually hanging down there) and refilling the fluid. I went ahead and had them replace the underside spoiler that was missing to prevent something like this from happening in the future. Thanks for the tips 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 19:53
|
|
|
JHVH-1 posted:Yeah the US ones are encrypted and the only way to decrypt it is to get to the ECU. So i guess flashing while in warranty isn't going to be an option anymore eh. Speaking of which, any Denver goons know a good shop for Flashing my mk4?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 23:39
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:It's becoming common in all the Mk5 Golf/Rabbit/GTI. The first one I had drove me crazy trying to figure it out but it turned out to be the right upper strut bearing. When the bearing starts to seize up it makes a clunking noise when you turn the wheels past a certain point. After that first one, I've done 3 or 4 for the same complaint. There IS a TSB about one of the lower engine mounts having poor bolts that are replaced under warranty, but it didn't fix any of the clunking during turning. FYI on this one, it ended up being in the subframe. He got the full paperwork in the mail today and it listed them first checking torque on all suspension bolts with no change, then installing four subframe bushings after which the problem went away. I can confirm that the problem is solved for now, though I'm now trying to figure out where exactly in the subframe the problematic bushings were. On another topic related to the same car, I helped him install a dogbone bushing insert the other day and found it to be surprisingly beneficial given the simple installation and low price. It causes a lot more vibration on startup and when in reverse, but the wheelhop on hard launches is gone.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 23:44
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:So i guess flashing while in warranty isn't going to be an option anymore eh. Speaking of which, any Denver goons know a good shop for Flashing my mk4? They have to prove the flash has something to do with a problem if something goes. APR and I think revo have multi-program flashes so you can set it back to the stock settings when you take it into the dealer for service. They wouldn't know it was done unless they really went looking for it. The local APR shop where I am happens to be a dealer as well, so if something did die on the engine I could go take it to them for repair. If you do some research on the GTI forums about local service shops you can probably find out which ones are mod friendly. If it is just a Stage ! rechip with no other mods they probably wouldn't know the difference in most cases. I think I am going to wait, especially since I missed the sale price APR were having earlier this spring.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 18:07
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Speaking of which, any Denver goons know a good shop for Flashing my mk4? This is where I take my car for service, although I haven't modded or flashed it in any way. These guys are racing nuts so I'm sure they could help you out http://www.champagnemotors.com/
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 18:55
|
|
|
JHVH-1 posted:I think I am going to wait, especially since I missed the sale price APR were having earlier this spring. I'm waiting also, hopefully they will figure out a way to flash without pulling anything. Maybe there's a way to ask APR when/if it's coming.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 19:15
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Ever since I had my new stereo put in driver's door rattles now. My car used to be so quiet until I had people take it apart. It's always fun finding extra screws in the floorboard after having the car worked on too. What year/model is your car again?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 22:51
|
|
|
Rhusitaurion posted:The A/C causes the 2 electric (also really drat loud) fans to go on, but the noise I'm worried about is separate. I'm pretty sure it's the viscous fan at this point, but I don't think it's supposed to be so drat loud. You're right - the viscous fan should be nearly silent during engagement and running. Any chance you've got a bent or damaged blade on that fan?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 22:53
|
|
|
Autism Sundae posted::/ They didn't do poo poo since the tech couldn't duplicate the noise. This is just getting irritating, I understand why they refuse to do it but I find it hard to believe that they couldn't hear it... Could you please post the instructions on taking down the dome light? Hopefully it's something I can do on my own without going back and forth between dealerships. There's also a dome light that's similar to the one up front right above the passenger seats, I hear a rattle from there that's very similar but can't really check. Can you post pics of both dome lights? There's a couple of different trim levels that might make a difference in removal of interior trim. The rubber "buffers" for the hatch are pretty easy: Loosen the screw that you can see inside the rubber bumper. Pull the notched piece (that the rubber is attached to) out so there's about 13 mm between the bottom of the rubber and the plastic sleeve that it fits into. Gently close the hatch. Open the hatch again and re-tighten the screw so that it is 2 cm deep from the top of the rubber bumper - that sould lock the bumper into place. If you're not happy with that, do it again and leave a little more of the notched part showing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:06
|
|
|
wolrah posted:FYI on this one, it ended up being in the subframe. He got the full paperwork in the mail today and it listed them first checking torque on all suspension bolts with no change, then installing four subframe bushings after which the problem went away. I can confirm that the problem is solved for now, though I'm now trying to figure out where exactly in the subframe the problematic bushings were. According to the service manual for the car you're talking about, there's only one front subframe bushing - it's the one in the center of the subframe that your dogbone fits into. I've done quite a few front control arm bushings in the A5 platform cars though - they're the press-in bushings in the front link of the lower "A" arms and they DO make some noise when they're bad and there's a TSB about that. If you have the part number for any of the bushings (they might be on owner's copy of the work order) post them and I'll tell you where they go. I'm not surprised the car launches better with a stiffer bushing - I switched both of my car's lower engine mounts to Avid poly bushings and it made a HUGE difference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:14
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:My colleague told me that the MKVIs in NA have more flashing protection, and require modifying the ECU before they can be flashed through the ODB port. Is that true? We don't do any tuning or chipping at my shop so I'm not sure what kind of added protection they have. We do a lot of re-flashes as part of software updates and problem-related corrections but of course none of the encryption measures matter when you've got dealer-supplied scantools and software.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:16
|
|
|
wav3form posted:Do you have any advice on changing a water pump in a Mark IV VR6? I noticed a small coolant leak and it's coming from the pump area so it's time to change it out. It could be the crack pipe as well but I won't know until I tear into it. Car is an '01 GTI with 87k miles. I'm going to change out the belt tensioner as well. There's not really any tips I can give you on the waterpump. Basically, remove parts till you can get at it and remove it. I've tried sneaking them out but in the end I usually end up pulling other stuff off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:19
|
|
|
JHVH-1 posted:They have to prove the flash has something to do with a problem if something goes. APR and I think revo have multi-program flashes so you can set it back to the stock settings when you take it into the dealer for service. They wouldn't know it was done unless they really went looking for it. If you have your chipped car in to a dealership for any type of diagnosis or repair, make sure that they call you before the attempt to flash update the ECU to solve a problem. Usually the scantools will pick up a chipped ECU and stop the flash program (especially on the newer cars) but on the older MK4 cars we've had several ECUs get fried because the flash update (for cat efficiency usually) didn't work with the chip. The newer tech chip tuners may have a work-around for stuff like this, but we do a lot more flash-updating than we used to so it's something to keep in mind.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:39
|
|
|
Happyjuice posted:I recently acquired a 1999.5 2.0 automatic Jetta. Just passed 100k driving it into work today, everythings great on it aside from the fact that it will almost always take two cranks to start, pumping gas while turning the key will get it to start on the first crank sometimes. Everytime after the car does start theres a loud squeal sound, aside from when I start it after filling up. Is this something that would be relatively easy(cheap) to fix for somebody with limited under the hood knowledge. I've been tempted to take it into a euro autoparts shop here in town that did good work on my old e34 but if I could fix this myself I'd much rather do that. Your first problem could be many, many things. Poor battery, weak fuel pump, old plugs - any of these and more could be the cause of your problem. There's nothing wrong with getting your local shop to take a look at it, diagnose the problem and then fixing it yourself. Do you have the trunk-mounted CD changer? I doubt the fuse on the deck is blown since it can still play FM. If you have the stereo on CD and you unplug the changer does the display on the stereo change? Can you get the CD magazine out of the changer?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 23:48
|
|
|
I have the weirdest problem I've ever seen from a vehicle. I have a 00' VW Passat V6 5spd, 87k miles. A bought the car with a broken ABS unit and had it repaired, the idiot lights for broken ABS disappeared and I was happy. My check engine light came on a few days ago, I didn't get it checked out yet because I'm pretty positive it's my downstream O2 sensor because I've developed a leak in the flex pipe. Tonight I was driving on the highway in the HOV lane doing 3k RPM's when suddenly the ABS lights came back on, I figured the ABS system broke again, but then my airbag light came on, my oil pressure light and ASR light lit up, then my RPM gauge began to fluctuate between 0 and 3k which I was cruising at, the car did not drop RPM's at all during this. I pulled over, shut it off, opened the hood, all was okay. I turned the AC off and kept driving, the lights stayed on. I went in and watched an 1 1/2 hour movie, came back, same thing all the way home. I noticed the ASR light dims randomly and when it does the RPM indicator fluctuates, I'm thinking I have a loose cable. Here's a picture of all the lights sans oil pressure as it goes on and off at will.  Here's an awesome video of my dashboard going wacko while I drive home. http://sepwich.com/drive/VIDEO0002.3gp Anyone else think it's a bad connector issue, if it may, where is the computer on this car so I can look at it myself? edit: Looks like it's a grounding issue, nevermind. Sepist fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 6, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 04:15
|
|
|
my1999gsr posted:Can you post pics of both dome lights? There's a couple of different trim levels that might make a difference in removal of interior trim. Thanks for the hatch guide, didn't even realize there were screws inside the bump stops. Here's the fucker that's making the noise:  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. It gets pretty loud but also depends on how bumpy the road is, uneven or broken pavement makes it sound like a loving maraca next to my ear. I checked out the rear dome light and I don't know if it actually rattles... it might, but it's really simple and doesn't seem to be moving around in its enclosure. Here's a pic of it anyway:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. How do you guys usually treat advice on what to look at from customers? If I come in and say "Hey, this here part is making noise", would you normally follow that as a lead or disregard it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2010 20:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 14:36 |
|
|
I used my rear washer yesterday and today I noticed it had the dribbles that I have read some people had. This isn't the end of the world kind of problem, so considering I have had zero other noticeable issues with this car I think I got pretty lucky. I was wondering how long this takes to fix if I get it done next month on my 3 month service check appointment. TSB # 2023248 Rear Washer Nozzle Drips after use The water from the rear washer nozzle continues to run out after washer is shut off. Technical Backround Rear washer hose retains washer solvent after use. Without a check valve the excess water will continue to drain off out of the washer nozzle. Service Fit a non-return valve in the hose of the rear window washing system.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2010 20:50
|
|