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The parts for my rear washer arrived on Friday (I guess they had to order them? for some reason?) and I'll go in on Monday to get it fixed. I'm expecting two hours at most.
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Jun 20, 2010 21:03
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks for the hatch guide, didn't even realize there were screws inside the bump stops. Here's the fucker that's making the noise: So, to remove the front reading lights and trim, you pop out the perforated trim piece and there should be 2 t20 Torx screws. Remove those screws and the whole assembly should come down out of the headliner - it's only held in by a couple of spring clips. The rear reading light is even easier to remove - it just pops out of the headliner if you pull on either the front or rear edge of the trim. We only have the information given to us by the customer in squeak/rattle diagnosis. If you tell me there's a noise from a certain area of your vehicle that's where I start looking. It may not end up being from the part indicated by the customer but it would be foolish not to use every bit of information I have.
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Jun 21, 2010 02:48
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Autism Sundae posted:The parts for my rear washer arrived on Friday (I guess they had to order them? for some reason?) and I'll go in on Monday to get it fixed. I'm expecting two hours at most. It should take an hour at most to complete this fix - you'll be out of there in no time.
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Jun 21, 2010 02:52
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Thanks a lot man, I'll try to get them to take a look at it again but might have to do it myself if the shop refuses. Great thread by the way, thanks for answering so many questions for everybody.
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Jun 21, 2010 08:34
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Is this the place to ask about ACVW stuff? Im looking for a bus roof rack (read; long) Ive found a few reproduction ones, but im going to be cutting it up and modfying it to fit on something not very vw, so i dont want to go spend money on a nice re-pop. Are these an easy item to find, or are the reproductions the cheapest option?
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Jun 21, 2010 09:27
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A friend of mine has a 08 Jetta, and it seems to be killing car chargers. She has had 6 iPhone car chargers, and they all quit working within a months time. She has even gone so far as to not leave it plugged in all the time, only when using it. Any ideas on whats going on?
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Jun 21, 2010 15:29
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LobsterboyX posted:Is this the place to ask about ACVW stuff? Im looking for a bus roof rack (read; long) Ive found a few reproduction ones, but im going to be cutting it up and modfying it to fit on something not very vw, so i dont want to go spend money on a nice re-pop. Are these an easy item to find, or are the reproductions the cheapest option? You'll get a lot of pissed off aircoolers if you go chopping up an original bus rack too. Not to mention OG racks are pretty pricey. We had a 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 rack over the years and i think we sold the 3/4 for around 500 bucks. My mk4 is an 04.5 GLI that just hit 57000 miles.
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Jun 21, 2010 20:38
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LobsterboyX posted:Is this the place to ask about ACVW stuff? Im looking for a bus roof rack (read; long) Ive found a few reproduction ones, but im going to be cutting it up and modfying it to fit on something not very vw, so i dont want to go spend money on a nice re-pop. Are these an easy item to find, or are the reproductions the cheapest option? There's an ACVW thread I started on the first few pages somewhere. That said the post above mine sums it up nicely: they're expensive, uncommon and oh god please don't. e; http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3306585
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Jun 21, 2010 20:51
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obeyasia posted:A friend of mine has a 08 Jetta, and it seems to be killing car chargers. She has had 6 iPhone car chargers, and they all quit working within a months time. She has even gone so far as to not leave it plugged in all the time, only when using it. As you might imagine, we have quite a few VW owners with iPod/iPhone/Blackberry chargers but I haven't seen any problems relating to them burning out. Do iPod chargers still have a fuse built into them that you can replace if they pop?
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Jun 22, 2010 01:47
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wav3form posted:Do you have any advice on changing a water pump in a Mark IV VR6? I noticed a small coolant leak and it's coming from the pump area so it's time to change it out. It could be the crack pipe as well but I won't know until I tear into it. Car is an '01 GTI with 87k miles. I'm going to change out the belt tensioner as well. Do you have a Bentley? If so, ignore it. The Bentley says something absurd like "take off the serpentine belt, remove the water pump bolts, remove water pump, reinstall water pump." It's like 2 steps. You're going to have to either drop the engine or raise the engine up. Best way is to remove the dogbone mount and the passenger side motor mount and then raise the engine up with a jack. May God have mercy on your soul, because this is a ridiculously hard job for something that is easy on any other car. I wouldn't change the water pump unless you were ABSOLUTELY SURE it was leaking. The crackpipe and water pump are really in two different areas, and as irritating as the crackpipe is to replace, it's a million times better than the pump.
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Jun 22, 2010 05:51
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How do I remove the doors on my MkV Jetta? I'm changing out all the stereo kit, and since I'm amping I need to run my own wires into the door. The cleanest way I found to do it (and what I did on the rear door) was to drill holes through the body, and use rubber grommets and split-loom to pass my cables through. This worked well for the rear doors, where I had access to all angles by various combination of opening the front and rear doors and removing trim from the interior. I have no idea how to do the same for the fronts, and am pretty much of the opinion that the way to do it is remove the door itself. It looks like I just need to remove the bolts holding the hinges on, which look to be an XZN of some sort. Past not knowing how to remove the existing wiring loom, are there any gotchas I need to worry about?
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Jun 22, 2010 14:37
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Not sure where to put this in the AI forums, but I think this might be the fit. I am planning on buying a new 2010 VW Golf, I am really on the fence about choosing between the regular Golf, the TDI and the GTI. My brother says that the GTI will lose it's vroom vroom (something about the sound and accel?) after about 2 years (it also might be the lack of TLC for his car). I also don't believe the GTI's extra 10k is worth it(?) to me. I really want to try the TDI and see what driving diesel is like (also the mileages is great). Also since I am planning on driving mostly in city (for the foreseeable future) I don't know how well this difference would show up between diesel and the regular. Lastly there is the issue with maintenance and care for a diesel that I would be the first to go through in my immediate circle. The price is also not helping since The R&R Sticky shows that it would take around 10 years to get the difference in savings. (Maybe a few years less because of the TDI tax break). Also is there a big difference in Auto (with Trip) and Manual for the car? I would love to learn how to drive Manual (also something about saving more gas?). tl;dr want to buy TDI but unsure about the gas savings/real advantages that warrants 5k in price.
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Jun 23, 2010 13:48
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Dr. Jackal posted:Not sure where to put this in the AI forums, but I think this might be the fit. As much as I hate to say it, the TDI isn't for you. The diesel engine is made for long-haul driving, and short jaunts around is pretty hard on it. It likes to get up to temp, it needs to be wound out occasionally, and you may end up draining your battery if you take a bunch of short trips. That said, the TDI (with a chiptune) feels like a whole different car in a Jetta shell. It accelerates like it's supposed to, with a meaty growl and a little hiss from the turbocharger. I am extremely glad to have paid the extra $5k for mine. If you want good city mileage, you can't beat a small hybrid. That's where they shine, and in stop-n-go city driving (with the correct pedal behavior) you'll push them well into 50mpg. You'd be lucky to see 30mpg from a TDI in the same circumstances. I applaud you wanting to learn to drive a manual. It really seems like a "lost art" today, and 6 of the 7 people I've shown manual (all under 30) have been amazed they didn't really know about it, and all of them have purchased manual vehicles and genuinely enjoy driving a lot more. Some people genuinely don't enjoy driving to begin with, but if you've ever put your windows down and turned the radio up while driving, because something about piloting the car is enjoyable, you'll like driving stick. But learn on a 10 year old econobox 
insta fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jun 23, 2010 |
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Jun 23, 2010 15:28
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insta posted:But learn on a 10 year old econobox Not to encourage you to go in either direction, but I learned how to drive stick on my 09 GTI with a couple of pointers from friends. The way I figured it, I would save $1000 on not buying the automatic, so I'd have $1000 to put into a new clutch if I ever burned the original out and hopefully by then, I'd have learned to drive it. And now I'm coming up on 15,000 miles, rev matching, heel toeing, hill starting, and the clutch works just fine. The only issue is that I was a bit spoiled into thinking that I was a smooth driver because the GTI clutch has a really smooth engagement, and the first time I got into my friend's Scion, I couldn't get a decent shift for a while.
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Jun 23, 2010 16:22
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Dr. Jackal posted:tl;dr You can do some back-of-envelope calculations to figure out how much you'd have to drive in order to see a cost savings by buying the TDI. Basically unless you spend most of your waking hours on the road, you probably wouldn't see any savings in the expected lifetime of the vehicle. I was in a similar position to you last year. I nearly bought a 2-door TDI Golf and wound up buying a GTI instead when the TDI had been sold, and I don't regret that decision. I also chose a manual over the DSG and haven't regretted that either, although the test drive was a bit hair-raising. The trick is to not reflexively lift your left foot up off the clutch as soon as the car starts to move. Once you get that down, it's just a matter of learning to shift in a way that won't make people in the back toss their liverwurst.
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Jun 23, 2010 18:23
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Dr. Jackal posted:My brother says that the GTI will lose it's vroom vroom (something about the sound and accel?) after about 2 years (it also might be the lack of TLC for his car). I don't.. what? What the gently caress does that even mean.
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Jun 23, 2010 19:35
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Get the Golf. If you don't feel like the GTI is worth it, then its not. There's no hidden value from a GTI, just hidden costs. I have one and they are great cars, but I wouldn't waste $10k if I didn't REALLY want it.
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Jun 23, 2010 20:55
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GTI is only worth it if you want a car that's reasonably quick and handles well. For some people, this adds to value and for others it doesn't. I really doubt a base GTI would cost 10K more, a base Golf does not cost 13 grand.
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Jun 23, 2010 21:29
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APR has another sale going on: http://www.goapr.com/news/2010/06/21/apr-summer-sale/ Very tempting. $600 for the four program flash on the '10 GTI.
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Jun 23, 2010 22:45
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^^^^Guess i know what i'm doing this weekend. Only 499 for a fully loaded 1.8t flash  I was pricing out TDI golfs and with EVERYTHING including 18s, sunroof, bodykit they top out around 29k. If you enjoy driving and don't want just another appliance, you probably won't really be happy with a base model golf. As far as losing the "vroom vroom" whatever that means, my GLI 1.8t has 57k on it and still pulls as hard as the day I bought it. Your brother probably just doesn't keep his tuned. Check out the '11 jettas, i think they are available as hybrids. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jun 23, 2010 |
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Jun 23, 2010 22:55
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my1999gsr: I would like your opinion on this. The car is a 2001 Audi TT convertible. Body looks great and engine sounds awesome, but there's a check engine light on (guy said it might be an O2 sensor but he doesn't know) and the windows (one doesn't come up)/tires (front 2 need replacing) need work. The mileage is right at 100,000. The guy's asking price is 9500, Kelly Blue Book says 8500 for good condition. What do you think the going rate for this car is given what I've mentioned? In general, what would you expect to price this kind of car at given the year and various issues?
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Jun 24, 2010 00:20
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Autism Sundae posted:GTI is only worth it if you want a car that's reasonably quick and handles well. For some people, this adds to value and for others it doesn't. I really doubt a base GTI would cost 10K more, a base Golf does not cost 13 grand. ep, yeah I 5K difference when both of them have the package I want. Again with the in-city driving would "reasonable quick" and "handles well" do something? I don't feel like I would be taking any turns or be in a chase scene anytime soon? I think I will go test drive the GTI and the standard golf tomorrow and decide (TDI is now out of the picture) to see if it warrants the extra 5k. veedubfreak posted:If you enjoy driving and don't want just another appliance, you probably won't really be happy with a base model golf. As far as losing the "vroom vroom" whatever that means, my GLI 1.8t has 57k on it and still pulls as hard as the day I bought it. Your brother probably just doesn't keep his tuned. Enjoy driving but also not so into cars other than the Audio/Nav system hackery (WinCE?)
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Jun 24, 2010 07:25
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insta posted:As much as I hate to say it, the TDI isn't for you. The diesel engine is made for long-haul driving, and short jaunts around is pretty hard on it. wait what?? TDIs perform brilliantly in stop-and-go city driving, it's long haul highway driving that can actually do them harm -- the VNT needs to be exercised, which highway driving does not do. i got 40mpg city in my heavily modified 03 TDI also, the tdi will feel quicker than the gti if you're not on the track, it has more torque
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Jun 24, 2010 21:20
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Do you have a Bentley? If so, ignore it. The Bentley says something absurd like "take off the serpentine belt, remove the water pump bolts, remove water pump, reinstall water pump." It's like 2 steps. You're going to have to either drop the engine or raise the engine up. Best way is to remove the dogbone mount and the passenger side motor mount and then raise the engine up with a jack. May God have mercy on your soul, because this is a ridiculously hard job for something that is easy on any other car. Well i'm getting a small leak from the pass. side and that usually means the water pump. If it were the crack pipe it'd be more center I think and the thermostat housing is fine. It only leaks some times and usually after I run the AC so it could be just a hose but I will probably change out the pump regardless because I have nothing better to do. I did my own control arm bushings and I think the water pump will be easier than that. To me it looks easy anyway plus i have a good DIY someone wrote up on vortex.
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Jun 24, 2010 22:06
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primitive posted:wait what?? So I drove the Jetta TDI today (I kept dropping the clutch on the Golf TDI Manual). The drive felt just like the GTI, except maybe it had more power sliding out of streets during left/right turns. Jetta is suppose to be wider and heavier than the Golf, which would mean smoother ride but rougher on the hard turns. Especially with the $1700 federal tax credit the TDI is looking REAAAAAAALLY sweet.
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Jun 24, 2010 23:08
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my1999gsr posted:You're right - the viscous fan should be nearly silent during engagement and running. Any chance you've got a bent or damaged blade on that fan? Doesn't seem like it, the blades all look normal, no cracks or anything (I read that these fans can send a blade through the radiator, that would suck :/ ). Could the viscous coupling be causing a racket if it's really old?
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Jun 25, 2010 01:34
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I have a 98 jetta TDI, occasionally my service engine soon light comes on and when it does, if I have the AC on, the car will slow down rpm then go back to normal, it cycles every 2 seconds between normal/slow down, I was wondering if you might know what that is? Also, occasionally my turbo will stop working and my service light comes on, if I'm on the freeway or going already, I'll just turn the ignition off and back on again while rolling then let off the clutch and keep going. Once my car turns back on, the turbo works again. Could those both be related? I've been trying to figure this out for the past month.
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Jun 25, 2010 01:35
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We own 3 Audis and have had incessant technical problems with all of them. How reliable are the B5 A4's? Some guy in my area is offering up a manual B5 A4 3.0 quattro with all the options and whatever for 11k, with under 50k miles, and I'm tempted to pull the trigger. Is this thing really going to leach, say, $10k more than owning a Japanese econocar shitbox?
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Jun 25, 2010 01:50
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primitive posted:wait what?? The VNT can be wound out in an onramp or two, but the TDI absolutely excels at parking at 2500 RPM and leaving it there until the tank runs dry 700 miles later. "Short jaunts" didn't mean city driving, it meant short trips. You're going to do a lot of harm to the engine relative to its long lifespan by driving for 2-3 miles at a time and shutting it down -- which is the kind of lifespan that a tiny-engined hybrid excels at, and what "city driving" sometimes implies.
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Jun 25, 2010 01:50
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Hey my1999grs, sorry to fill this thread with my rattle bs but the shop didn't fix the dome light rattle - drove off the lot today and it didn't seem to make noise but then it started again in the evening. Maybe there are some dealerships around here that know what they're doing but I can't seem to find them. Anyway, I'm going to open the dome this weekend and see if I can stop the noises for good, so here's some more dumb questions: do you guys just use a regular flathead to pop that panel with the honeycomb-pattern on the upper console? It seems to be sitting pretty flush with the rest of the console, don't want to break any clips off. Also do you use anything special in your rattle kit or is felt/friction tape fine? I have a roll of 3m friction tape and lots of folks seem to use it, just wondering whether you can suggest anything better. Thanks.
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Jun 25, 2010 05:50
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JHVH-1 posted:APR has another sale going on: I presume this can be a hassle to bring into the dealer if you're still under warranty? Typical response of where the dealer might want to void your warranty because of it, then you claim Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act or whatever? P.S. I replaced the 335i with a 2008 Audi TT (2.0T, CPO, 18k miles), and wow do I love it. Pictures coming soon.
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Jun 25, 2010 13:39
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King-Kong posted:I presume this can be a hassle to bring into the dealer if you're still under warranty? The fully loaded APR flash lets you set it to "stock" and has a lock out feature. The dealer can't tell its flashed.
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Jun 25, 2010 15:30
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Would a dealer be able to tell with MKVI GTIs though since ECU has to be pulled to do the flash (in other words will a dealer know that someone hosed with the ECU)?
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Jun 25, 2010 16:02
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Anyone know how to get the side window covers off an MKIV? I have a feeling they kind of rotate forwards and off. I busted my passenger side cover pulling out of the garage, thankfully not damaging any of the inner workings of the mirror or glass.
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Jun 25, 2010 17:23
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coinstarpatrick posted:Anyone know how to get the side window covers off an MKIV? I have a feeling they kind of rotate forwards and off. I busted my passenger side cover pulling out of the garage, thankfully not damaging any of the inner workings of the mirror or glass. There's an access hole on the bottom of the mirror and a metal clip inside the housing. You have to yank out the mirror to see it. Poke a screwdriver through the hole and the metal clip and pry the screwdriver handle towards you and lift up on the cover. May have to fiddle with it as you lift up on the cover but that's the jist of it.
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Jun 25, 2010 22:14
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veedubfreak posted:^^^^Guess i know what i'm doing this weekend. Only 499 for a fully loaded 1.8t flash As far as I know the only VW/Audi product that will have hybrid technology for sure is the Q5. I've never heard of GTI/GLI's losing their grunt over time. Usually once they leave the original owner the upkeep starts to go downhill and performance suffers but it's nothing to do with the car.
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Jun 25, 2010 23:24
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bartlett posted:my1999gsr: I would like your opinion on this. That's quite a bit of money for a 9-10 year old car. Here are the questions I'd want answers to before I even considered buying this car: Has the timing belt been done? If so, when? Why is the check engine light on? Any corner shop with a decently up to date scantool can tell you the P code. If it's something serious, walk away. You're not going to fix the window for any less than $200 in parts and labor and the tires aren't going to be cheap either. If you really want a TT then keep looking - there's better examples out there for comparable money.
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Jun 25, 2010 23:29
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insta posted:How do I remove the doors on my MkV Jetta? You'll need a triple-square socket to remove the hinges but you'll also need a low profile ratchet to loosen them. Can you post a picture of the door hinge wiring with the door open? You don't have to pull the rubber cover back - I just need to see it to remember how it goes.
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Jun 25, 2010 23:33
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primitive posted:wait what?? In real-world driving the TDI seems to get roughly comparable mileage compared to the 2.0 gas engine when they're driven in the city. I know this flies in the face of conventional thought when talking about diesel engines but they only really shine when they're highway driven. As far as engine wear goes, all the VAG cars fare better when they're driven hard and frequently. The VNT getting seized is usually the result of it operating in a very short sweep which is directly related to short trip driving where the throttle is never opened totally. The stock TDI is a little quicker out of the hole than a stock 2.0T GTI but only for about 10 feet - that little turbo spools up fast enough to erase the torque advantage the TDI has. You might be a little too used to your chipped TDI. 
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Jun 25, 2010 23:48
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Good to know driving it like I stole it is good for it I usually run 87 octane, but I put 91 (high altitude so it's all i can get) in it last fill up. I had forgotten how much more pull it has. My gas mileage goes to poo poo though when i put the premium in it cause i romp on it so much more >< http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/15/vw-says-hybrid-jetta-is-on-its-way/ Just so you don't think I'm out of my gourde. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 25, 2010 |
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Jun 25, 2010 23:49
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