|
Aeka 2.0 posted:Come on, now. That's way overkill for basically everyone in this forum. If you need something with that kind of beef (and price tag) you aren't asking what kind of welder to get in here. I understand they are a quality welder, but unless you find one at a garage sale or on craigslist for a massive price markdown you're probably better off looking for Miller, Lincoln, or some of the Hobart welders that are widely available.
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 17:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 03:14 |
|
|
frozenphil posted:Come on, now. That's way overkill for basically everyone in this forum. If you need something with that kind of beef (and price tag) you aren't asking what kind of welder to get in here. I understand they are a quality welder, but unless you find one at a garage sale or on craigslist for a massive price markdown you're probably better off looking for Miller, Lincoln, or some of the Hobart welders that are widely available. Yeah it's overkill, but drat me if I wouldn't be caught touching that welder against my naked skin in a manly way 
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 18:00
|
|
|
I'd like one to make bulldozers with. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 18:15
|
|
|
Hi guys, I just bought this tool for my birthday: Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. It's a Husqvarna 435 it's very light, has a nifty suspension that isolates the powertrain from the handles, revs like hell, and also cuts like hell. I got it because this is my backyard(after having some fun with the husky).  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. There used to be trees blocking this view  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. And I'm doing all this so I can fence the yard in so she can run around in all that space.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 20:12
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:I'd like one to make bulldozers with. Bulldozers are for wimps. Killdozers are where the action is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 20:27
|
|
|
R-Type posted:H/F 60 Gal Air Compressor Update: You'll be much happier with that compressor. IR makes easily the best compressors in the <$900 range. Keep up on the maintenance and that will last you more than double the extended warranty period.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 20:36
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Bulldozers are for wimps. Killdozers are where the action is. Can't make a killdozer without a bulldozer donor chassis.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2010 22:18
|
|
|
Chauncey posted:Hi guys, I just bought this tool for my birthday: I'm so sorry. e: I'm so sorry you didn't get a Stihl. Because seriously. Can you take it back?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 02:26
|
|
|
I think I'll start the man-touching now.    Electrical and most of the hard lines are done. Houston heat and humidity is a bear. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 04:04
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:Come on, now. That's way overkill for basically everyone in this forum. If you need something with that kind of beef (and price tag) you aren't asking what kind of welder to get in here. I understand they are a quality welder, but unless you find one at a garage sale or on craigslist for a massive price markdown you're probably better off looking for Miller, Lincoln, or some of the Hobart welders that are widely available. It might be a bit much for most, but 2,000 dollars (theweldingstore.com) aint all that bad for a welder that can be as good or even beat a 6,000 dollar welder. Just thought id open up some peoples eyes if they are going to drop some large cash on a welder. Maybe being around these things has affected how I see "hobby" welders. Using other welders just becomes frustrating. In fact I need a welder, I haven't bought one yet because I'm saving for one of these for my garage. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jun 15, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 04:21
|
|
Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
|
That's a nice compressor. It's funny that you have that reg. I have the big brother to your compressor, t-30/5hp I-R, with the 1/2" version of that regulator. You will be happy. If it works on yours, put a spigot in the oil drain, it makes changing oil a breeze.  I want a Panasonic. No, I need a Panasonic. I deserve it. I see a whole lot of overtime in my future.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 04:42
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:It might be a bit much for most, but 2,000 dollars (theweldingstore.com) aint all that bad for a welder that can be as good or even beat a 6,000 dollar welder. Just thought id open up some peoples eyes if they are going to drop some large cash on a welder. Maybe being around these things has affected how I see "hobby" welders. Using other welders just becomes frustrating. In fact I need a welder, I haven't bought one yet because I'm saving for one of these for my garage. I did all of the metal work on my Mustang using a 110v Lincoln in a shop where I had access to commercial welding equipment. Most people will never use a standard 230v welder to its limit in their garage, much less that Panasonic. I can understand wanting to have the best, but there's a difference between making a recommendation based on what someone needs vs what would be really cool to have. Why push the $2k welder when they will never max out the $1200 one? $800 buys some really handy shop tools like a parts washer, blasting cabinet, or air compressor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 15:55
|
|
|
I wish I had 8 grand for a compressor / power-hammer package.  Power-hammers are so loving cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibkZLgQqR54
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 17:29
|
|
|
If you're spending over $900 on an air compressor you can do better than IR. Because they're a big name brand they wind up charging more for the same features as some of the smaller companies. For the cost, I'd get the hammer separate and buy one of these. They're a bit cheaper and will run quieter. http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/1710568.htm http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/6980263.htm
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2010 19:19
|
|
|
TIG Report - Oh god, what have I done? Since I picked up my Diversion 180 last Friday, I've spent more time making beads than is probably healthy. I emptied out my 80cf tank of Argon today, which means I've gone through more than 10cu.-ft/day. No one should buy one of these things, it's a time sink and it's really fun to use. Aluminum is still a dirty evil bitch, but this thing seems to do it decently well. Both workpieces in the linked image are 1/2" thick which made welding the aluminum a bit easier (I still burn through anything thinner than 1/8"). Image 1, Image 2. The unit itself is ridiculously light weight and really portable. Really this thing is ideal for the weekend welder with a bunch of various car poo poo to work on. The only tradeoff between this and a Syncrowave that I can really tell is the lack of AC Duty-cycle control. Everyone should have a MIG first though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 07:38
|
|
|
The biggest thing about welding aluminum with tig is getting it really clean. Also looks like you need to put a little more heat into those welds but they look really good otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 10:37
|
|
|
FormulaXFD posted:TIG Report - Oh god, what have I done? Are you using different specialized tungsten electrodes for steel and aluminium, or a general one that's decent at both? Also what are you using to grind the point?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 20:11
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:Are you using different specialized tungsten electrodes for steel and aluminium, or a general one that's decent at both? I've been using the included Ceriated electrode. Miller's documentation suggested not to bother with pure Tungsten electrodes and keep with the Ceriated ones. Some other sources say use 2% Thoriate electrodes, or 1.5% Lanthanide electrodes, which I'll be trying this weekend. I did buy pure Tungsten electrodes, but didn't find them to be particularly effective over the Ceriated one I have (but I'm a complete frosh with TIG so take that how you will). I think I'm lucky that I haven't had to grind and hack my one Ceriated electrode that often. For grinding the electrode, I've been using a cheap bench grinder from harbor freight.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2010 22:46
|
|
|
Are you rounding the tip of the electrode before you weld aluminum? If you are using a bench grinder, always use the same wheel for your tungsten, and never use that wheel for anything else. You don't want a wheel impregnated with other metals to contaminate your electrode. Also, tungsten and all the other metals they put in these rods is nasty stuff, do not breath it while you are grinding. Get a respirator. mutt2jeff fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jun 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 01:16
|
|
|
mutt2jeff posted:Also, tungsten and all the other metals they put in these rods is nasty stuff, do not breath it while you are grinding. Get a respirator. "thorinated" = radioactive!
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 02:53
|
|
|
Skyssx posted:"thorinated" = radioactive! So I hear. Cancer just means an early retirement right? Edit: for what it's worth, my settings were completely jacked on aluminum. I had my electrode hanging out too far with too much gas which is why the beads were rear end. Keep the electrode short, and lower pressure (13 cfm got me the best results) and you get nice shiny stack of dimes beads. FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jun 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2010 06:06
|
|
|
You don't have to round the electrode when doing aluminum. Put a sharp point on it like you would for DC and the first time you strike an arc on the aluminum and put a little heat through the electrode it will form a ball on it's own. Alternatively, you can use DC Reverse Polarity to ball your electrode, just arc to the welding table and watch it ball up. But it's not necessary at all as welding on ac will ball the electrode just fine. Also, I don't know if your welder allows it, but if you can change the AC frequency balance you should play with those settings a little. The book should explain it pretty well. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jun 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2010 01:09
|
|
|
Not specifically car-related, but this tool is awesome: http://www.harborfreight.com/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html All I tested was the drywall cutting tool, but that made me sing its praises instantly. You basically draw a line in the drywall and the tool cuts through it like butter. I put in a 1 gang old work box and it fit so tight I would not have needed to screw the tabs down. The thing is surgical on drywall.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 18:02
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
meatpimp posted:Not specifically car-related, but this tool is awesome: http://www.harborfreight.com/multifunction-power-tool-67256.html I agree - this thing put my Roto-Zip to shame for drywall and soffit cutting. They also sell a variable speed electrical and pneumatic variant now. I don't think the Dremel version of the attachments are compatible with this unit, however.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
The best thing about that tool is it routinely goes on sale in store for $34.99-39.99 and you can use the 20% off coupon and score it for like $30.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 22:59
|
|
|
Not sure if this was mentioned already but I need a cordless drill for work. Nothing too extreme, it'll mostly be for undoing screws/bolts and the occasional drilling through sheet metal. Brands to look at/stay away from?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 00:15
|
|
|
Stay away from: Harbor Freight Look at: DeWalt
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 00:28
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:Look at: DeWalt I dropped our DeWalt 18v hammer drill from over 120ft and it still works (the chuck is a bit warped, but works perfect). We use drills heavily/frequently and DeWalt has lasted the longest (I love the mini-impact). Drilling sheet metal/aluminium, running 3/8" self drillers through I-beams/L-channel, etc. Good heavy work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 01:08
|
|
|
Black and Decker owns both Dewalt and Porter Cable. They share a lot of internals across their product lines. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 02:12
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Black and Decker owns both Dewalt and Porter Cable. They share a lot of internals across their product lines. Wow. I've had this old rear end cheap Black and Decker 18v forever. It just keeps going - I now know why. It doesn't have a huge pile of force but it drives screws for most of the day without trouble. PS1800 is says.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 04:28
|
|
|
Dumb question incoming: For oiled air compressors the start up instructions usually say "check the oil level before starting the unit" which implies that oil is being consumed while the unit is running. Does this mean oil is ending up in the air supply? This makes sense to me because it could help lubricate air tools, but on the other hand it would mean if I used a blow gun to dry something it could end up being covered in a fine mist of oil droplets.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 07:47
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Black and Decker owns both Dewalt and Porter Cable. They share a lot of internals across their product lines. Hilti owns Black and Decker, Dewalt and Porter Cable, but you're partly right. Dewalt is the old industrial brand of B&D.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 08:30
|
|
|
sbyers77 posted:For oiled air compressors the start up instructions usually say "check the oil level before starting the unit" which implies that oil is being consumed while the unit is running. Does this mean oil is ending up in the air supply? A very tiny amount of oil will get past the rings, but not enough for any kind of lubrication. Ideally, you shouldn't have to add oil between your regular changes. Splash lubricated pumps are really picky about oil level, too much and they blow gaskets, too little and they score the cylinders and crank. Best to notice a problem before wrecking the most expensive part of your compressor. Checking it every day/use is excessive, but it's a good habit. It's also the wrong oil for your tools. Just keep a small bottle on the shelf with the air tools and add a couple drops before connecting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2010 08:52
|
|
|
It's also the reason that you need filters on your compressor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2010 02:19
|
|
|
Home Depot has a sale on a Husky 45 piece stubby set. It's hard to get a good look at it on the web site, but for $8 I'm just going to buy it. I'm hoping it will be helpful for all those bolts that are tight on space, and if nothing else it's some more spare sockets for $8. http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2010 16:29
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Home Depot has a sale on a Husky 45 piece stubby set. It's hard to get a good look at it on the web site, but for $8 I'm just going to buy it. I'm hoping it will be helpful for all those bolts that are tight on space, and if nothing else it's some more spare sockets for $8. Damnit, I was just there this morning, saw the display, but didn't look at the price. Guess I'll be going back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2010 16:45
|
|
|
A question for you gentleman, what are the useful ranges of torque wrenches for most common car repairs? Something along the lines of "most all engine work can be done with 3/8 in. 10-100 ft. lb wrench"? I recently saw 3/8 and 1/2 in torque wrenches both with 10-250 in. lb. range. Even for 3/8 this seems rather limited, and 1/2 is just ???
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 05:12
|
|
|
50-250 ft. lbs. is a common 1/2" drive range, and useful. Other than that I would say get a smaller torque wrench that covers at least 10 ft. lbs.. Torque wrenches are expensive, so you want the few that you get to cover as much different range as possible. For less than 50 ft. lbs. stuff I have a 1/4" in lb torque wrench. It doesn't see much action aside from spark plugs, but its still nice to have around. I think the general consensus on HF torque wrenches is that they are okay for tasks that don't require utmost precision (imo, nothing you would use a torque wrench for in the first place). I have no idea what the current line of Craftsman torque wrenches are like, but a few years ago they had a pretty dogged reputation. Usually can't go wrong with tool truck brands!
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 05:29
|
|
|
I bought the Mastercraft 1/2" torque wrench a while ago. It takes care of everything from 50+ ft.lbs. Problem is, for aluminium stuff it is complete overkill. I'd like to pick up a nice 1/4" torque wrench that will handle all the little stuff. EDIT: It appears 200 in/lbs is about their limit, which is under 20 ft/lbs. 
Sockington fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jun 26, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 05:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 03:14 |
|
|
Ericadia posted:I have no idea what the current line of Craftsman torque wrenches are like, but a few years ago they had a pretty dogged reputation. I bought one, used it once or twice, put it back in the box, and found it in a pool of oil the next time I picked it up to use it. Since I don't use it often, it was way out of warranty.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 05:56
|
|
