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Ziploc posted:Oh hey I'm sliding. Should I countersteer? MmmmmmmmmmmmmmNOPE. I did counter-steer, but the slide was way more than I thought it'd be. Moruitelda posted:Still can't figure out what the hell happened. Looks like a perfectly standard turn followed by an inexplicable slide. Did the driver randomly lift off the throttle and/or brake mid-corner? No lifting until it was quite obvious that the car was coming around. I couldn't find anything in particular when reviewing the video with the instructor, but I think it's a mix of hitting the curb at the wrong spot and getting on the throttle way too fast. That said, I still stick by my excuse of trying to use 101 torques when my Miata only has 100. 
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Jun 22, 2010 10:55
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Phone posted:I did counter-steer, but the slide was way more than I thought it'd be. Unlike Forza, real car steering wheels turn more than 10 degrees.  Steer more. (Watch the next video be him counter steering more and then tank-slapping into a wall.)
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Jun 22, 2010 14:48
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I think I may need new motor mounts. 2nd gear left turn:  2nd gear right turn: 
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Jun 22, 2010 16:36
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Ziploc posted:Unlike Forza, real car steering wheels turn more than 10 degrees. OK autox boy. 
Phone fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jun 22, 2010 |
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Jun 22, 2010 16:38
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You could have easily gone to 180 degrees without taking your hands off the wheel. Just sayin'. Why you didn't I can't really comprehend.
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Jun 22, 2010 19:28
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But I only moved my hands 10 degrees. I don't understand what you're getting at.
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Jun 22, 2010 19:45
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Phone posted:I don't understand what you're getting at. Are you on the internet? Yes? Then everyone is automatically a much better driver than you are. In fact, you are probably the worst driver in existence. LAWLZZZZ
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Jun 22, 2010 20:24
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destructo posted:Wrong. You lose clutch material while it's slipping, not while it's engaged. On the first point, I know how the clutch operates; I was implying that it's probably worse to dump the clutch than to match the revs when shifting, if not for the clutch than for some other components that would experience increased wear. Maybe the clutch really is fine if you upshift & dump the clutch, but I don't really have any empirical evidence to support it either way. Second, I understand the amount of slip should be the same at a given resistance regardless of gear, but each gear has a different ratio and exerts a different amount of torque through the rest of the drivetrain and to the road. Since higher gears multiply torque to a lower degree than lower gears, you would expect to notice clutch slippage in 5th rather than 1st, for example. If I'm in 1st gear at 3k RPM and suddenly floor it, my car will accelerate to a greater degree than if I do the same in 5th gear; the engine's output is independent of gearing and dependent on speed, and the least amount of torque is applied to the rear wheels in the top gear so there is the most resistance from that side of the drivetrain. Ultimately, as I've said I don't have any clutch slippage (I floor it in every gear, every day) so I'll have to take everybody else's word on it but what I went through in this paragraph is most logical as an observer. FatCow posted:I think I may need new motor mounts. Yeah, I noticed that. 
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Jun 23, 2010 04:14
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Any idea how much I'd be able to expect for a 1996 NA, ~120k, mechanically in good condition (water pump, timing belts done recently), but needs a new passenger side wing? Oh, and it's not got AC, but it does have a Robbins Sunfast top with the glass window (no zip). Would make a good spec miata car possibly? I'm trying to work out if it makes sense to have the wing repaired or if it'll cost me more than I'll make back.
drgitlin fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jun 23, 2010 |
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Jun 23, 2010 16:34
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Dr JonboyG posted:Any idea how much I'd be able to expect for a 1996 NA, ~120k, mechanically in good condition (water pump, timing belts done recently), but needs a new passenger side wing? Oh, and it's not got AC, but it does have a Robbins Sunfast top with the glass window (no zip). Would make a good spec miata car possibly? I'm trying to work out if it makes sense to have the wing repaired or if it'll cost me more than I'll make back. I'm confused as to what you're referring to when you say "passenger side wing." I'd say, ignoring that, probably around $3,500-$5,500, depending on the general paint/body/interior condition. E: If it needs a new fender, I'd say it depends. I wouldn't pay over $2,500 for something with body damage, but there are people out there who aren't crazy. Maybe $3,000-$3,500? Moruitelda fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jun 23, 2010 |
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Jun 23, 2010 18:06
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Moruitelda posted:I'm confused as to what you're referring to when you say "passenger side wing." Fender.
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Jun 23, 2010 19:48
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Moruitelda posted:I'm confused as to what you're referring to when you say "passenger side wing." 
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Jun 23, 2010 19:56
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Which is basically the only thing I'd ever heard referred to as a "wing" on a car.
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Jun 23, 2010 20:07
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I wish I knew where that term came from, because the "fender area" isn't even really the "wing" on a plane either. I guess the fender arch kind of looks like one.
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Jun 23, 2010 21:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I wish I knew where that term came from, because the "fender area" isn't even really the "wing" on a plane either. I guess the fender arch kind of looks like one. Well, hood, trunk, bonnet, and boot aren't all immediately obvious, either.
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Jun 23, 2010 21:40
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Sorry, I'm from the UK (although I live in DC). Wing, bonnet, boot, tyres. Pip pip old chap. So if the body work is going to be more than about a grand I shouldn't bother.
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Jun 23, 2010 23:27
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Dr JonboyG posted:Sorry, I'm from the UK (although I live in DC). Wing, bonnet, boot, tyres. Pip pip old chap. A new wing was a grand with blending in CAD dollars for me.
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Jun 23, 2010 23:29
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So, my girly is looking into getting a Miata. There's a nice silver NB ('01) at the local dealership with 60k for around $9000. Decent price? Her POS Buick gets $5k there, I figure her getting a 5 year loan to build credit is a good idea. How do the NB's compare to the NA's? I personally prefer the NA's (hidden headlights rule).
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Jun 24, 2010 06:23
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Beach Bum posted:So, my girly is looking into getting a Miata.
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Jun 24, 2010 06:34
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Beach Bum posted:So, my girly is looking into getting a Miata. There's a NB at the carmax near me I happened to see with almost the exact same specs, with the same price. And if you didn't know, carmax has almost comically distorted high prices on everything. Butttt that could be okay if it is in very good condition. I see 99s(first NB year) all the time for about half that, private sale wise. But avoid 99s and 00s as they have the potential thrust bearing failure. That mileage is pretty low, but I don't know if it's worth more than 7k. Have also seen some early NCs start to dip down into the 12k area, something to keep in mind. The NC is a truly a great car although it really is very different than the former generations. The NA and the NB are similar but they added/changed a lot of things in the NB to overall make the car more comfortable. You "feel the road" a lot less. That being a good or bad thing is up to you, really. I hope this doesn't sound too sexist or whatever but I think a girl would prefer the NB. But that may be just because I don't know any girls who like to really throw their cars around.
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Jun 24, 2010 06:58
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destructo posted:The NB is a better car, the NA is a better Miata. I'm not sure what you mean by this. Do you mean the NB is more comfortable or something? I have a '99, and I can't fathom a car could be stiffer than it is. EDIT: And I guess it has a heated hardtop, but those were around before the NB... More sound dampening? It's slightly heavier than an NA, has a tiny bit more trunk space (which is laughable compared to anything but another miata)...
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Jun 24, 2010 20:43
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The NB is closer to the NA than it is to the NC. The NAs are also generally going to be cheaper because they are older. As the years go on Mazda adds things to the Miata, which results in more features but more weight (and a bit more power.) You have to decide what you want, but between the NA and NB, frankly they're similar enough where I'd just look for one in good condition at the right price. Getting a removable hard top is nice if you live anywhere it snows, but you'll definitely get tired of it by the time Spring rolls around unless you are (or your girlfriend is) one of the weird guys in this thread. Make sure she gets one with a manual, though, not just because the automatics in those cars reportedly suck, but because all automatic transmissions suck. Fact. 
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Jun 25, 2010 02:49
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Piano posted:The NA and the NB are similar but they added/changed a lot of things in the NB to overall make the car more comfortable. You "feel the road" a lot less. That being a good or bad thing is up to you, really. When you say you feel the road a lot less in the NB, are we talking about not feeling every little bump and pebble you run over but still well-connected, or like driving around in a numb luxobarge (or somewhere between the two)? I'm (hopefully) going to be in the market for a Miata in the next year or two and have been leaning towards a late-model NB...
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Jun 25, 2010 03:24
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Geoj posted:When you say you feel the road a lot less in the NB, are we talking about not feeling every little bump and pebble you run over but still well-connected, or like driving around in a numb luxobarge (or somewhere between the two)? I'm (hopefully) going to be in the market for a Miata in the next year or two and have been leaning towards a late-model NB... There's no factory Miata in the world that handles like a "numb luxobarge." I have a NA Miata with coilovers and Koni Yellow shocks, and it's only about as rough as my Mini Cooper S was. I haven't driven a NB, so I don't have the personal basis for comparison, but I wouldn't be surprised if the reports I've heard are accurate and the NB is a bit softer than the NA. The NA's a good car. I wouldn't get too caught up about the differences (either of you); in my opinion, as long as it's optioned the way you want, NA v. NB is much less important than getting a good condition car, that's been cared for, and is at the right price.
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Jun 25, 2010 04:44
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The NB chassis is way stiffer than the NA. It's quite profound and the NB is a much more able car. For 5k, I'd take a 99 with 120k on the clock versus a lower mileage NA.
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Jun 25, 2010 10:04
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I own a '99 NB, and have put a little seat time in my sister-in-law's '95 M. The two really aren't all that different. In the scope of just Miatas, yes, they are, but compared to any other car on the road, they aren't. Buy the best individual example you come across that checks all the right boxes for you option-wise and condition-wise. Also, the bearing issue on '99s and '00s is overstated. It is definitely not nonexistent, but it pretty much exclusively happens before 50k. There are probably still some '99/'00s out there with 30k on the clock but if you see one with 60k+ it's almost certainly going to last as long as you want it to.
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Jun 25, 2010 14:23
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Phone posted:The NB chassis is way stiffer than the NA. It's quite profound and the NB is a much more able car. For 5k, I'd take a 99 with 120k on the clock versus a lower mileage NA.
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Jun 25, 2010 15:59
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destructo posted:Is this mostly just due to the extra bracing that gets put in year after year? I wasn't aware of any fundamental chassis difference. This is the impression I'm under as well.. I'd imagine with a rollbar they would be identical in stiffness (and didn't the '94 NA actually get that stiffening behind the seats?)
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Jun 25, 2010 20:13
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This was the fantastic scene I had to deal with yesterday. Weather forecast was 20% chance of isolated thunderstorms, which actually turned out to be the biggest hailstorm I've ever seen. My entire neighborhood is littered with downed trees and power lines. We were without power for 21 hours. I had no idea it was coming until it was 3 minutes out.. I cleaned up outside (was getting my wrecked Maxima ready for tow) and by the time I finished I was getting hit with hail so hard I had to cover my head as I ran in. From my perspective you can see the hail hitting the hood of my WRX... it was bouncing off and hitting my legs and chest. Nice. Meeting with insurance on Monday for the miata and Tuesday for the WRX. Any idea what kind of money I'm looking at? Both cars are riddled with dimples... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mPX-LtSB1U Sorry for the video quality. Didn't exactly have the chance to get my camera, was stuck in my garage.
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Jun 25, 2010 20:20
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Blaise posted:This was the fantastic scene I had to deal with yesterday. Weather forecast was 20% chance of isolated thunderstorms, which actually turned out to be the biggest hailstorm I've ever seen. My entire neighborhood is littered with downed trees and power lines. We were without power for 21 hours. For me, that's like a wet dream. It's possible they'll total both. You can buy them back, get a huge check, and continue driving your mechanically perfect cars with awful hail damage (that would be my inclination  ). Hail dimples all over all the body panels is not cheap to fix, especially if there's any paint damage.
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Jun 25, 2010 20:25
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Moruitelda posted:For me, that's like a wet dream. It's possible they'll total both. You can buy them back, get a huge check, and continue driving your mechanically perfect cars with awful hail damage (that would be my inclination That would be terrible. Total them and both get Salvage titles, which means I'd have to jump through all kinds of hoops to get them legal again and both would then be worthless because of the title status. I doubt the WRX would get totaled, but I'm afraid Geico may think my Sunburst '92 is worth $1500. What I'm hoping is that between the two cars I get enough of a check to have the miata repainted and the massive dent from my December hit and run fixed.
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Jun 25, 2010 20:30
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Nooooo the sunburst 
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Jun 25, 2010 20:55
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Blaise posted:This is the impression I'm under as well.. I'd imagine with a rollbar they would be identical in stiffness (and didn't the '94 NA actually get that stiffening behind the seats?) My point of reference is a 1994 with a harddog rollbar and a 2004 MSM. I know that the suspension is a bit stiffer on the MSM, but the car doesn't feel like it's struggling to hold on in the corners like my NA does. The NB comes directly from the NA tub, but they drastically improved the chassis when they came out with the NB.
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Jun 26, 2010 00:49
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Hey jerks I installed the rear half of my suspension but I ran into a problem. After I installed everything, I dropped the car down, then pressed on the rear of the car and heard a clunk-clunk. Turns out even though I had tightened the top nuts on the shocks all the way down, there was still too much free-play, so I just used the bumpstops that were on the oem shocks on the top between the already-there rubber bushing and the top washer. It no longer bounces but what the gently caress did I do wrong. My struts are set up like this: bumpstop, washer, car, rubber bumper thing, then the old bumpstops, then the top washer, and then two nuts to lock it down. The two top nuts fit fine and theres 1 or 2 threads showing above each one. Am I going to have to re-do everything? I went for a drive and everything seemed hunky-dory.
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Jun 26, 2010 03:04
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Blaise posted:That would be terrible. Total them and both get Salvage titles, which means I'd have to jump through all kinds of hoops to get them legal again and both would then be worthless because of the title status. I doubt the WRX would get totaled, but I'm afraid Geico may think my Sunburst '92 is worth $1500. Hail is usually a special case. In most states (that I'm aware of), it's easier to buy back a car that's totaled by hail damage, and it's easier to get it titled again. If they do wind up totaling the car(s), I would be inclined to do a buyback and keep driving them in the hail-damaged condition. You'll lose out on your deductible, but it'll be better than taking the cash and trying to buy a new Miata. That's my two cents. Not everybody is as dismissive of dents as I am. 
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Jun 26, 2010 05:13
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crutt posted:Hey jerks I installed the rear half of my suspension but I ran into a problem. After I installed everything, I dropped the car down, then pressed on the rear of the car and heard a clunk-clunk. Turns out even though I had tightened the top nuts on the shocks all the way down, there was still too much free-play, so I just used the bumpstops that were on the oem shocks on the top between the already-there rubber bushing and the top washer. It no longer bounces but what the gently caress did I do wrong. My struts are set up like this: bumpstop, washer, car, rubber bumper thing, then the old bumpstops, then the top washer, and then two nuts to lock it down. The two top nuts fit fine and theres 1 or 2 threads showing above each one. Am I going to have to re-do everything? I went for a drive and everything seemed hunky-dory. Little more detail may help. Also you have shocks and not struts fyi. Did you install coilovers or just shocks and springs? Did you lower the car any? What about the rear sway? Stock? If not, did you add aftermarket end links?
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Jun 26, 2010 05:29
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I'm fighting a timing belt change on a PT Cruiser right now, and it's getting me depressed thinking about the inevitability of the Miata's needing one. It's getting past 60k now. I know that's just the recommended interval, but how long generally have people ran the belts before they go? And more important- how much of a pain in the rear end is changing it?
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Jun 26, 2010 06:16
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EDIT I FIXED IT FORGET I SAID ANYTHING. I was being dumb. crutt fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jun 26, 2010 |
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Jun 26, 2010 06:29
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Hagetaka posted:I'm fighting a timing belt change on a PT Cruiser right now, and it's getting me depressed thinking about the inevitability of the Miata's needing one. It's getting past 60k now. I ran mine to 100k / 11 years, and I'm pretty sure more than a few others have done the same. That said, if you do go for the 'long' interval, expect to do the whole drat thing - idlers, water pump, etc. You won't want to skip any of them. It's really not hard on the Miata, though, because you have a lot of room at the front of the engine to work on things. You only need to drop the front swaybar if you can't get a socket on the crank bolt, and the only other problem I had (and much to my amusement, aventari did it too) was putting the crank sensor trigger wheel on backwards. Why couldn't it have been flat instead of a 2mm dish? 
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Jun 26, 2010 06:34
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crutt posted:New Bilstein HD's with H&R "race" springs, FCM bumpstops, stock rear sway. What I'm saying is that without re-using the old bumpstop in a different position, that when the suspension was loaded- IE on the ground, there was play where the shock comes through the chassis. I had to re-use the old bumpstop (rubber) on top of the stock inner rubber bushing to tighten the shock-top completely. Unless you got new shock bushings then yes, you should have reinstalled your old shock bushings on the new shock and spring, it doesn't matter that you got new bumpstops, you still need a shock bushing there as well.
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Jun 26, 2010 18:36
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