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my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Rhusitaurion posted:

Doesn't seem like it, the blades all look normal, no cracks or anything (I read that these fans can send a blade through the radiator, that would suck :/ ). Could the viscous coupling be causing a racket if it's really old?

Absolutely. I've never seen one that loud but it's easily possible.

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my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

keykey posted:

I have a 98 jetta TDI, occasionally my service engine soon light comes on and when it does, if I have the AC on, the car will slow down rpm then go back to normal, it cycles every 2 seconds between normal/slow down, I was wondering if you might know what that is? Also, occasionally my turbo will stop working and my service light comes on, if I'm on the freeway or going already, I'll just turn the ignition off and back on again while rolling then let off the clutch and keep going. Once my car turns back on, the turbo works again. Could those both be related? I've been trying to figure this out for the past month.

Your turbo problem is a common one on your car and the way you deal with it is how most owners do since the repair is usually to replace the turbo. A cycling A/C compressor is usually the result of it being too high or low on refrigerant. Why this is interacting with your check engine light is a mystery though.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

MALCOLM XTREME posted:

We own 3 Audis and have had incessant technical problems with all of them. How reliable are the B5 A4's? Some guy in my area is offering up a manual B5 A4 3.0 quattro with all the options and whatever for 11k, with under 50k miles, and I'm tempted to pull the trigger. Is this thing really going to leach, say, $10k more than owning a Japanese econocar shitbox?

The 3L is a decent motor so that's a plus. What year is the car?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Hey my1999grs, sorry to fill this thread with my rattle bs but the shop didn't fix the dome light rattle - drove off the lot today and it didn't seem to make noise but then it started again in the evening. Maybe there are some dealerships around here that know what they're doing but I can't seem to find them.

Anyway, I'm going to open the dome this weekend and see if I can stop the noises for good, so here's some more dumb questions: do you guys just use a regular flathead to pop that panel with the honeycomb-pattern on the upper console? It seems to be sitting pretty flush with the rest of the console, don't want to break any clips off. Also do you use anything special in your rattle kit or is felt/friction tape fine? I have a roll of 3m friction tape and lots of folks seem to use it, just wondering whether you can suggest anything better. Thanks.

The honeycomb cover should just pop off if you wedge a small screwdriver under it in any spot and lift up gently. My instruction manual doesn't give me any specific directions for a Bluetooth-equipped car like yours but it should be the same as other Golfs with a center console.

After having just replaced a headliner on an A5-style Jetta I can offer you some more info on possible issues that would cause a rattle in your front upper console/headliner. There's a wiring harness that goes from the front vanity mirrors and console to the rear reading light in the headliner. The wiring is actually copper laminated into a ribbon and held down by tape - it can easily rattle. When you get the front console down have a look at the plug for the maplights and sunroof control - if they're not secured they can easily rattle.

We've got a really comprehensive anti rattle kit but I've used hockey tape, a cut up seat foam and t-shirt fabric to kill rattles. Basically, let the what's causing the rattle determine what you use to kill it. There's little danger of harm in the area you're working so just use what works.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

King-Kong posted:

I presume this can be a hassle to bring into the dealer if you're still under warranty?

Typical response of where the dealer might want to void your warranty because of it, then you claim Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act or whatever?

P.S. I replaced the 335i with a 2008 Audi TT (2.0T, CPO, 18k miles), and wow do I love it. Pictures coming soon.

Technically the VW scantools are supposed to be able to detect a chipped ECU and warn us before performing a flash update so we don't damage anything. We don't get many chipped cars at my shop so it's not really an issue although we did have a customer with a chipped VR6 that didn't tell us and when we tried installing a flash update for the 02 sensors it trashed the ECU. That was an A4-style Jetta though - the A5-style cars are supposed to give us the chipped ECU warning. As to how this works with a car that still has warranty? I have no idea. If your car comes in for a TSB/recall that involves a flash update (there's lots of those) you can decline the flash but that might also mess up your warranty coverage. I'd ask the company that manufactures your chip.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Would a dealer be able to tell with MKVI GTIs though since ECU has to be pulled to do the flash (in other words will a dealer know that someone hosed with the ECU)?

I wasn't aware that the A4-style cars needed to have the ECU removed to be chipped but then, I don't chip them so there's that. When we do ECU flash updating on any generation of VW/Audi the ECU stays in the car - it's all done by scantool so it's doubtful that we'd notice if the ECU had been tampered with in that case. Usually we find out if a car has been chipped when we test drive it. Not long ago I repaired a 1.8T GTI and right out of first gear it just boiled the tires. When the customer arrived to pick up the car I asked him where he had it chipped. His response? "What's a chip?" Turned out they guy had just bought the car at a police auction and had no idea that it wasn't stock. That car really hauled rear end - I still laugh at the expression on his face.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

veedubfreak posted:

Good to know driving it like I stole it is good for it :) I usually run 87 octane, but I put 91 (high altitude so it's all i can get) in it last fill up. I had forgotten how much more pull it has. My gas mileage goes to poo poo though when i put the premium in it cause i romp on it so much more ><

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/15/vw-says-hybrid-jetta-is-on-its-way/

Just so you don't think I'm out of my gourde.

I just got back from VW/Audi training today (R8 - wheeee!) and we had a pretty big discussion about hybrid technology and where it fits in the product lines. At this point, the only 100% certain N. American hybrid VAG vehicle is the Q5 with a very possible Touareg hybrid for the US market only. That's right from my trainer. I'll email him the link you posted and see what he says.

Bitcoin Billionaire
Mar 10, 2007

my1999gsr posted:

The 3L is a decent motor so that's a plus. What year is the car?
02

King-Kong
Oct 15, 2003
Leader of the Apes
As promised here are the pics of my [new to me] 2008 TT (2.0T, FWD).

My 335i (manual, coupe) was totaled in an accident and while I miss it's raw performance, the TT's looks, cabin feel, and s-tronic transmission make me enjoy it more. I've always loved the TT, ever since the mk1, so this is a great feeling to have something I've lusted over for quite some time.





King-Kong fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jun 26, 2010

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

King-Kong posted:



Is it just me or does this last photo really look like a rendering from a video game? That car is in amazingly good condition, it just looks so shiny.

Dr. Jackal
Sep 13, 2009
I decided to go with a Manual TDI. The regular Golf was too weak(?) for my taste, and I am not a big modding the engine kind of guy. The TDI was about the same price for the GTI and when I drove it, at least for city and highway it felt almost the same as the GTI ( I drive a little more conservatively on the highways).

The dealer is giving 22600, which is suppose to be below invoice (I will believe it when I see the invoice...) with $200 or so on top for admin fee, anyone have a invoice on hand? The car is suppose to have BT, Mats, Weather and stuff.

I will start joining this thread with me taking apart the inside to replace the BT with 9W7 and the HD Radio with a RNS-510 or one of those Chinese OEM things.

Dr. Jackal fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jun 26, 2010

King-Kong
Oct 15, 2003
Leader of the Apes

wolrah posted:

Is it just me or does this last photo really look like a rendering from a video game? That car is in amazingly good condition, it just looks so shiny.

Full disclosure: I had *just* finished giving it its first wash and wax.

my1999gsr: thanks for the suggestions. I was able to nab this as a CPO and made sure to get one with a good maintenance record and low mileage (18.5k miles). I couldn't find any 3.2 trims within my price range, however.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

MALCOLM XTREME posted:

02

Ok, that's a solid car - good engine, fewer "convenience" features that are expensive to repair and a pretty tough transmission. As is always the case with Audi, the real value of the car is based on it's service history and upkeep. If the car you're looking at has been locally dealer-serviced and you're serious about buying it, I'd give the dealership's service department a call and see if they'll let you have the service history (if the seller doesn't have it). They *may* not give you the history because of a privacy of information concern though. If you're interested, I might be able to dig into the vehicle's warranty history if you have the VIN - I can at least tell you what warranty repairs have been completed.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

King-Kong posted:

As promised here are the pics of my [new to me] 2008 TT (2.0T, FWD).

My 335i (manual, coupe) was totaled in an accident and while I miss it's raw performance, the TT's looks, cabin feel, and s-tronic transmission make me enjoy it more. I've always loved the TT, ever since the mk1, so this is a great feeling to have something I've lusted over for quite some time.







That's a sharp TT! I'm glad you got CPO too - it can be a very useful safety net in the event of any problems. Since it's not a Quattro you should find it a little quicker than a similarly equipped Quattro TT just due to weight savings. The early generation TTs were a very stiff chassis and the newer ones like yours are even more rigid so look forward to tossing it around on windy roads, especially with the S-tronic. It's not really a big deal that you couldn't find any 3.2L TT's for a decent price - you can always squeeze more power out of the 2.0T with chip tuning and the like.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009
I snapped a couple of pics during R8 training this week and I figured I'd poo poo up this thread with them:

An R-tronic equipped, Suzuka Grey V10 - around $240,000 CDN:





Here's a man. trans equipped V10 R8 that we stripped all the front and rear body panels off of. Suprisingly the tear down was very simple - anyone could do it with a flat screwdriver and a T-30 Torx.

primitive
Mar 14, 2001


I AM A CHEAPSKATE WHO HAS HAD THE STUPID NEWBIE BABY AVATAR FOR 12 YEARS.

my1999gsr posted:

As far as engine wear goes, all the VAG cars fare better when they're driven hard and frequently.

while i'm in the UK my parents have been instructed to drive my GTI hard at least once a week

when they came to visit me mom was looking smug and she said "son, i redlined your car"

i was so proud

my1999gsr posted:

The VNT getting seized is usually the result of it operating in a very short sweep which is directly related to short trip driving where the throttle is never opened totally.

or you could be like the PO of the TDI i used to drive and cruise at 1700 rpm on the highway all. the. time.

the intake was clogged and the stock vnt15 was trash by 75k miles. perfect excuse to drop in a 17!

my1999gsr posted:

The stock TDI is a little quicker out of the hole than a stock 2.0T GTI but only for about 10 feet - that little turbo spools up fast enough to erase the torque advantage the TDI has. You might be a little too used to your chipped TDI. :cheers:

the current GTD is -40hp +60tq compared to the GTI

i want the GTD to come to the states sooooo badly


Dr. Jackal posted:

The dealer is giving 22600, which is suppose to be below invoice (I will believe it when I see the invoice...) with $200 or so on top for admin fee, anyone have a invoice on hand? The car is suppose to have BT, Mats, Weather and stuff.

CarsDirect says the invoice on a base 2dr TDI is $22350. if it's a 4dr you are indeed below invoice.

primitive fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jun 26, 2010

Dr. Jackal
Sep 13, 2009

primitive posted:


or you could be like the PO of the TDI i used to drive and cruise at 1700 rpm on the highway all. the. time.

the intake was clogged and the stock vnt15 was trash by 75k miles. perfect excuse to drop in a 17!

CarsDirect says the invoice on a base 2dr TDI is $22350. if it's a 4dr you are indeed below invoice.

- its a 2dr

I added some options which is bringing the price up, CarsDirect & Edmund are showing me invoice of 22750 and 22450, more than happy to get it so close to invoice.

I am still worried I might not be able to turn my diesel enough month, my usual driving habits makes me fill up once every 10 day-ish. It might change when I have my own car though..?

now with Bi-Xenon headlights... car shopping is driving me up the godamn wall. I will be happy when I have a car in hand and driving.

(I also realized that invoice price doesn't include VW Association fees, admin fees, first tank of gas fee, advertising,... blah blah blah).

Dr. Jackal fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jun 26, 2010

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

Dr. Jackal posted:

(I also realized that invoice price doesn't include VW Association fees, admin fees, first tank of gas fee, advertising,... blah blah blah).

None of these fees are necessary. I paid for DMV registration fees and tax, that's it. Bi-xenon headlights are a loving awesome option, I don't know how much they are on TDIs (cost about $700 for my GTI, I think) but I don't regret getting them.

You should also shoot for below invoice, I don't think people are going nuts over TDI anymore.

Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jun 27, 2010

Dr. Jackal
Sep 13, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

None of these fees are necessary. I paid for DMV registration fees and tax, that's it. Bi-xenon headlights are a loving awesome option, I don't know how much they are on TDIs (cost about $700 for my GTI, I think) but I don't regret getting them.

You should also shoot for below invoice, I don't think people are going nuts over TDI anymore.

Yeah, the dealer is trying to push me above invoice saying it's flying off the shelves, again because the tax credit gets cut in half in 3 days. Bi-Xenons are $700 for TDI's as well.

I will see monday how much I can haggle the price down, I know invoice price and the first question I am going to ask is going to be "can you beat 23000".

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Are you talking to several dealers? I got offers from 10-12 dealerships before buying. Don't do walk-ins though, they will not cooperate on the price (I guess they think you're a sucker and don't know how to do it online).

http://www.truecar.com/Volkswagen/G...8&zipcode=95117

I don't know about your area, but invoice on a 2-door manual TDI with xenons as the only option is just over 23K and average amount paid is around $23300. I'd shoot for $22.8

This does not include taxes or registration fees. Read truecar, they will tell you which fees are bullshit (ex. advertising, storage - you don't loving pay a dealership to store the car, come on). For comparison, I got my GTI at $25049, sticker was $27340 and factory invoice was $25802.

"Flying off the shelves" stuff is sales bullshit as well, they would have a waiting list if that were true. If they have them on the lot then they're not flying off the shelves.

Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jun 27, 2010

dk2m
May 6, 2009
So how retarded am I if I'm looking at a 2004 Phaeton? I'm looking out for a big, comfy, luxury sedan and I stumbled upon the VW. It seems pretty nicely priced at $21000 with 60K miles. I know for a fact that it is expensive to maintain and likes to break sometimes, but does anyone have anything good to say about it at all? Or should I just keep far away?

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

dk2m posted:

So how retarded am I if I'm looking at a 2004 Phaeton? I'm looking out for a big, comfy, luxury sedan and I stumbled upon the VW. It seems pretty nicely priced at $21000 with 60K miles. I know for a fact that it is expensive to maintain and likes to break sometimes, but does anyone have anything good to say about it at all? Or should I just keep far away?

Honestly, it's a very nice car to drive: smooth, powerful and refined - exactly the way it was designed to perform. There's too few Phaetons on the road (in North America at least) for there to be many shops that are experts in their service and that's a big part of the problem with owning one. If you're prepared for higher than average repair costs then the Phaeton might be a decent fit for you. Before buying one, check with your local VW/Audi dealer to see if they have any experience with the Phaeton - a little exposure to the car can go a long way.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

my1999gsr posted:

Here's a man. trans equipped V10 R8 that we stripped all the front and rear body panels off of. Suprisingly the tear down was very simple - anyone could do it with a flat screwdriver and a T-30 Torx.


Easy to get off is one thing. How easy did it go back together?

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Took the upper dome out today, there's a ton of stuff up there that can rattle. Tech put some foam tape there, didn't seem to hep so I added a bit of friction tape. It didn't make it any better though. There are three wire harnesses just like you said my1999gsr, not really secured or anything. Any chance of me messing anything up if I wrap them with friction tape or something to that effect? I'm paranoid about doing anything with wiring, thought it might affect the stereo somehow.

Dr. Jackal
Sep 13, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Are you talking to several dealers? I got offers from 10-12 dealerships before buying. Don't do walk-ins though, they will not cooperate on the price (I guess they think you're a sucker and don't know how to do it online).

I don't know about your area, but invoice on a 2-door manual TDI with xenons as the only option is just over 23K and average amount paid is around $23300. I'd shoot for $22.8

This does not include taxes or registration fees. Read truecar, they will tell you which fees are bullshit (ex. advertising, storage - you don't loving pay a dealership to store the car, come on). For comparison, I got my GTI at $25049, sticker was $27340 and factory invoice was $25802.

"Flying off the shelves" stuff is sales bullshit as well, they would have a waiting list if that were true. If they have them on the lot then they're not flying off the shelves.

They are all playing the "Flying off the shelves" sales pitch with the tax break blah blah blah. Golf TDI is harder to get below invoice on because VW haven't issued rebates for them yet :(

last day for anyone of them to make me a deal or I go buy a Ford Fiesta mwahahahaha (no I wont be doing that yet.)

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Took the upper dome out today, there's a ton of stuff up there that can rattle. Tech put some foam tape there, didn't seem to hep so I added a bit of friction tape. It didn't make it any better though. There are three wire harnesses just like you said my1999gsr, not really secured or anything. Any chance of me messing anything up if I wrap them with friction tape or something to that effect? I'm paranoid about doing anything with wiring, thought it might affect the stereo somehow.

Wrap the hell out of those wires. As long as you don't twist them too much (as I said they turn into a laminated wire ribbon about 4 inches after the plugs) you'll be fine. Try taking the car for a spin with the done light assembly out or hanging down and see if the rattle is still present.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Big Taint posted:

Easy to get off is one thing. How easy did it go back together?

Surprisingly easy as well. I'd say it took about the same time (or a little less) to re-assemble everything. I was dreading the reassembly but everything is laid out pretty much as logic would dictate so there was very little doubt about where most pieces went.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

my1999gsr posted:

Wrap the hell out of those wires. As long as you don't twist them too much (as I said they turn into a laminated wire ribbon about 4 inches after the plugs) you'll be fine. Try taking the car for a spin with the done light assembly out or hanging down and see if the rattle is still present.

Cool, yeah I think it's the two plastic plug harnesses since they are right next to each other, it would make sense for them to make noise by banging against each other. One of the wires coming out of a plug is slightly exposed for some reason (I can see a bit of metal, the outer insulation level is pulled back a bit - I can take a picture I guess) and it was already that way, is that normal? :|

Also, how do I take the armrest cover off from the center storage console? I popped off the lower cover that is only held by clips and saw two T20 screws, took those out but the top fabric part of the armrest didn't come off like I was expecting. It makes a bit of noise too so I'd like to put some foam in the gap between the armrest and the console itself.

I definitely appreciate what you guys do more now, it's frustrating as hell to figure out which one of the tiny pieces makes a noise.

JHVH-1
Jun 28, 2002
I had a rattling vibration noise last night and I thought it was coming from the passenger side but it turned out I left the sunglasses storage thing open.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

primitive posted:

while i'm in the UK my parents have been instructed to drive my GTI hard at least once a week

You should have instructed them that parking hard once a week was also a requirement just to see the look on their faces.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Rattle's mostly fixed now (something still makes a bit of noise but nowhere near as bad as it was).

The slightly exposed wire coming out of the connector (near the blue spot in the center of the photo):


Wrapped in friction tape:


Final result - had some trouble fitting the wires in a good way, the lower one (thinner wire that goes to the smaller box) had to move to the right so the wire curves all the way to the right edge of the white dome panel.


If you look at the picture below, the bottom connector (1) is now to the right of center with wire to the right (sorry for poo poo drawing), the second connector (2) is to the left.


Should I try and fit the wires up higher into the dome or is this more or less fine? I was worried that the wire going to the right of connector 1 would get wedged between the dome and headliner as I screwed it back in place but it doesn't seem to get clamped.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
If I'm gonna post a ton of poo poo about minor stuff with my car then might as well go all the way. Just noticed this today and don't know if this is right:

the back seat cushion (passenger side) is loose, I can lift it up easily. It has this u-shaped latch but it doesn't clamp onto anything.


close-up shot - the metal latch is just moving around in that square hole.


Is there a piece missing? Just seems like the cushion should latch onto something that should be in the square opening. The cushion on the driver's side back seat is secured tight, can't really lift it up.

DropShadow
Apr 15, 2003

Autism Sundae posted:

close-up shot - the metal latch is just moving around in that square hole.


Is there a piece missing? Just seems like the cushion should latch onto something that should be in the square opening. The cushion on the driver's side back seat is secured tight, can't really lift it up.

If it's anything like my Audi, there's a piece missing that goes in that hole. It was missing on mine when I bought it and made a lot of noise and made the seat loose.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Rattle's mostly fixed now (something still makes a bit of noise but nowhere near as bad as it was).

The slightly exposed wire coming out of the connector (near the blue spot in the center of the photo):


Wrapped in friction tape:


Final result - had some trouble fitting the wires in a good way, the lower one (thinner wire that goes to the smaller box) had to move to the right so the wire curves all the way to the right edge of the white dome panel.


If you look at the picture below, the bottom connector (1) is now to the right of center with wire to the right (sorry for poo poo drawing), the second connector (2) is to the left.


Should I try and fit the wires up higher into the dome or is this more or less fine? I was worried that the wire going to the right of connector 1 would get wedged between the dome and headliner as I screwed it back in place but it doesn't seem to get clamped.

If the dome assembly will fit back in then you're fine. VW leaves a little extra space up there so no problems. The bit of exposed wiring at that plug isn't a big deal - it's not unusual. If it bothers you you can sneak a little electrical tape in there and seal it up though.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

If I'm gonna post a ton of poo poo about minor stuff with my car then might as well go all the way. Just noticed this today and don't know if this is right:

the back seat cushion (passenger side) is loose, I can lift it up easily. It has this u-shaped latch but it doesn't clamp onto anything.


close-up shot - the metal latch is just moving around in that square hole.


Is there a piece missing? Just seems like the cushion should latch onto something that should be in the square opening. The cushion on the driver's side back seat is secured tight, can't really lift it up.

There's a bit of the clip left there (the black plastic rectangle in the hole) but it's broken - order 2 of them and replace both at the same time.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips

DropShadow posted:

If it's anything like my Audi, there's a piece missing that goes in that hole. It was missing on mine when I bought it and made a lot of noise and made the seat loose.

Yeah that's what I figured, but I was wrong about window channels so I thought I'd ask. Maybe that's the rattle I keep hearing from back there, would be loving awesome if it got fixed. Why was yours missing, just never installed at the factory or you got a preowned Audi?

my1999gsr posted:

There's a bit of the clip left there (the black plastic rectangle in the hole) but it's broken - order 2 of them and replace both at the same time.

Thanks for all your help, I'll see if a dealer will do it (I don't know if the warranty will cover those clips?) The dome light might be making some noise still, but I don't think I want to mess with it more.

my1999gsr
Mar 21, 2009

Autism Sundae posted:

Yeah that's what I figured, but I was wrong about window channels so I thought I'd ask. Maybe that's the rattle I keep hearing from back there, would be loving awesome if it got fixed. Why was yours missing, just never installed at the factory or you got a preowned Audi?


Thanks for all your help, I'll see if a dealer will do it (I don't know if the warranty will cover those clips?) The dome light might be making some noise still, but I don't think I want to mess with it more.

No problem - I'm here to help!

The reason that part for securing the rear seats is broken on an Audi is usually because it had to have it's fuel pump replaced and that pump is under the seat. Someone got a little too aggressive trying to get the seat bottom out and broke the clip.

Autism Monday
Mar 18, 2005

anime comes to life and kisses me on the lips
Not sure what would cause mine to be broken but they should be cheap enough even if warranty doesn't cover them. Hey since you're here, what's the trick to getting the center console armrest cushion removed? I posted about it some pages back, got as far as removing two T20 screws but it didn't come off.

DropShadow
Apr 15, 2003

Autism Sundae posted:

Yeah that's what I figured, but I was wrong about window channels so I thought I'd ask. Maybe that's the rattle I keep hearing from back there, would be loving awesome if it got fixed. Why was yours missing, just never installed at the factory or you got a preowned Audi?

Thanks for all your help, I'll see if a dealer will do it (I don't know if the warranty will cover those clips?) The dome light might be making some noise still, but I don't think I want to mess with it more.

It was missing when I bought my car used, not sure how or why it came off, or how the previous owner lived with the rattle it made. The dealer didn't cover mine under warranty but the part was only a couple bucks and they had them in stock. YMMV.

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Dr. Jackal
Sep 13, 2009
picked up my car today, Golf TDI Manual. Took me 2 hours to learn how to drive on local roads. I can get into gear around 80% on flat surfaces (wheeeeeeee)

Anyone had whistling noise coming from the AC when the vents are closed on the passenger side?

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