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EvilMuppet posted:I don't get it. Not everyone is Caucasian. I tried to find the poignant Bloom County cartoons with Oliver Wendel Homes asking for a "flesh" colored crayon or wearing the "flesh" colored band-aid but came up with squat.
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Jun 22, 2010 00:32
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Indolent Bastard posted:Not everyone is Caucasian. Flesh colours are drat hard to do right, most historicals seem to not really bother compared to the level of effort that goes into GW stuff or even the engine grease that's going to be sealed inside the hull.
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Jun 22, 2010 01:04
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Arquinsiel posted:...or even the engine grease that's going to be sealed inside the hull. Those people scare me. There was this one article I read where a fella used 4 kits to build an artillery piece, using the most accurate bits from each kit and still ended up scratchbuilding the entire cockpit with controls, then painted & weathered it & glued the hull top on. Back of the (scratchbuilt with hand-wound springs) drivers chair was just visible through the 12mm hatch.
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Jun 22, 2010 06:16
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at least they take photos before they glue it all together
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Jun 22, 2010 06:41
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EDIT for unneeded reply. Nice to find a model thread by the way. 
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Jun 22, 2010 14:17
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Just Another Lurker posted:Nice to find a model thread by the way. There's a general painting & modelling megathread over in Traditional Games / Discussion, borne out of a warhammer thread so it's a little less serious.
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Jun 22, 2010 17:40
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Can I have a link? I can't find it. Also, I scored a Trumpeter SdKfz 9 today for under $10 on sale. There's a crazy amount of sprues in there for a 1:72. Too bad most of the detail it going to end up being covered 
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Jun 23, 2010 00:31
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Cakefool posted:Those people scare me. There was this one article I read where a fella used 4 kits to build an artillery piece, using the most accurate bits from each kit and still ended up scratchbuilding the entire cockpit with controls, then painted & weathered it & glued the hull top on. Back of the (scratchbuilt with hand-wound springs) drivers chair was just visible through the 12mm hatch. I have that one bookmarked. The level of detail and accuracy this guy strives for is something else: http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172 Ensign Expendable posted:Can I have a link? I can't find it. If you are referring to the space barbie painting thread, it is here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1
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Jun 23, 2010 04:40
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SkunkDuster posted:I have that one bookmarked. The level of detail and accuracy this guy strives for is something else: Not the one I'm thinking, but equally as bad/scary/awesome. This one had the guy making a lifesize cardboard mockup of the drivers footwell to study where scuffs & dirt would occur. Also using 0.1mm brass sheet to make an accurate copy of the radio.
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Jun 23, 2010 18:43
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I'm intending to make a diorama base for a model I want to build. Ideally I'd like to use foamcore, but should I put something stronger like thin wood underneath, or will two layers of foamcore be enough?
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Jun 23, 2010 20:17
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Zvezda modern warfare extravaganza!       This is the best photo I managed to get of the grenade launcher guy. Having a phone for a camera sucks. His face also didn't turn out so well. There are two kits in here, and the difference between the two is astounding. Spetsnaz #1 (the sniper and the three soldiers in front of an envelope) comes with no accessories at all, just the figures, a gun for each one and a rocket launcher. The Spetsnaz Fire Support kit (soldier with binoculars, soldier with automatic mounted grenade launcher, the soldier lying down and the soldier without sleeves) come with a ton of stuff, like backpacks, ammo pouches, even two bases.
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Jun 23, 2010 22:55
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Cakefool posted:Not the one I'm thinking, but equally as bad/scary/awesome. This one had the guy making a lifesize cardboard mockup of the drivers footwell to study where scuffs & dirt would occur. People: taking things just a little too far since 4000 BC. OK Peeps, I'm buying me a airbrush. An Iwata eclipse for $100. Are they all CR? Will this purchase enable Neb finally be able to paint the airbrushed camo paint job of his dreams?!
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Jun 23, 2010 23:39
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I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but I'm having some trouble with my airbrush, a Badger 150. I believe the valve is jammed because no air is getting through into the brush. I took the valve out and pressed the button down while connected to my compressor, and no air is coming through but the button goes down all the way. I clean my airbrush after each time I use it, running it under water and then leaving it cleaner for an hour or so. This is my second valve and I don't want to order another. My manual has a diagram showing that the valve comes apart, but doesn't tell me how to do it. Can anyone help?
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Jun 24, 2010 03:42
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I had a very similar problem just a couple weeks ago. You are going to want to do this in a place where you will be able to find very tiny parts if you drop them. The spring 50-020 is tiny and can get lost very easily. Remove the main valve body from the brush by putting a wrench or pliers or whatever on part 50-013. Once that is out, use a small allen (hex) wrench to remove 50-015. Be careful not to lose the spring because it will fall out when you take 50-015 off. The rubber gasket 50-0141 should be seated snugly against the underside of the head of the needle valve 50-014. You can see in the picture that there is a little ridge that is supposed to keep it there, but running high air pressure through the airbrush can pop it loose and jam it up towards the tip of the needle valve. This can be tricky to diagnose because when the trigger is released, the spring will push the needle valve back up, which will cause the gasket to reseat itself in the correct position on the needle. When you take it apart, everything will look correct, but as soon as you put it back together and put air through it, the gasket will slide up the needle valve again and block your airflow.
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Jun 24, 2010 05:08
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Doubleposting because I'm not sure if editing will mess up the attached image.crime fighting hog posted:I clean my airbrush after each time I use it, running it under water and then leaving it cleaner for an hour or so. I think this is the cause of all your problems. That cleaner you are soaking it in could be deteriorating the rubber gasket (O ring) on the needle valve. If you are going to soak your airbrush, remove the air valve assembly and set it aside. No paint ever passes through that part of the brush, so there is no need to clean it. For cleaning, I use two of those 3oz jars and this cleaning station. The first jar is just plain water. I run that though the brush until it comes out clear, then switch to the other jar containing W&N Brush Cleaner for about 30 seconds. I'm not saying that the W&N Cleaner is the best stuff, it is just what I have and seems to work well enough. For the occasional thorough cleaning, you really only need to soak the head assembly, the needle, and the chrome part of the body. Maybe the trigger as well to remove all the cheeto gunk and boogers left behind from your grubby finger. There shouldn't be any paint anywhere else. Just remember to slide the needle forward out of the brass chuck (after you have removed the whole works from the body) so you aren't dragging a dirty needle backwards through the chuck and getting a bunch of gunk inside of it. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Jun 24, 2010 05:38
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Holy poo poo, thanks Skunkduster. I don't have an allen wrench that small but I can pick one up. Also, the cleaner I use says it doesn't hurt the rubber and plastic rings, but I wouldn't be surprised if that's bullshit.
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Jun 24, 2010 14:34
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo, thanks Skunkduster. I don't have an allen wrench that small but I can pick one up. Also, the cleaner I use says it doesn't hurt the rubber and plastic rings, but I wouldn't be surprised if that's bullshit. Sometimes it's more true for a splash or other brief exposure but less so for a long soak.
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Jun 24, 2010 14:52
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Midjack posted:Sometimes it's more true for a splash or other brief exposure but less so for a long soak. It says leave in for an hour without degradation. I usually only leave it to soak for about 40 minutes before I put it back together and start my next color. really, if this doesn't work, I'm getting a Paasch talon.
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Jun 24, 2010 15:09
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Woo, a scale modelling thread! I just started my first ever model, the Apollo 11 lunar module and boy howdy this is an awesome hobby to pick up. So far so good, only broke one little tiny piece and I haven't lost any! I do have a question though. How do you guys make the lines so straight? I suppose you use masking tape? I've been trying to paint my model with a brush and the results are rather disappointing. Visible brush strokes, colour being a little off on different parts etc. And no straight lines dammit  Since I suppose it's a bit too soon to invest in an airbrush, are there any tips you guys can give on paint brushing areas? Nothing fancy, just some solid colours.Also, do you generally paint the model as a whole, while it's still on the strue or each part of it before it goes on the main body? Apologies if these have already been asked, I skimmed through some pages but didn't see anything. But you guys are awesome and I hope I develop my skills enough to match you at some point.
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Jun 24, 2010 15:37
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crime fighting hog posted:It says leave in for an hour without degradation. I usually only leave it to soak for about 40 minutes before I put it back together and start my next color. You clean it that thoroughly between each color change?  Hopefully, all you need is a new O-ring. I probably wouldn't have never figured out that was the problem with the used one I recently purchased if I didn't have an identical 150 to compare it to. I didn't really need a second airbrush, but got a deal on it for $40 including one of those little hobby compressors. I guess I didn't need the compressor, either, but for $40, I wasn't going to turn it down. I figured I'd keep one brush with a medium head/needle for basecoating and put a fine needle/head on the other for detail work. Anyway, I got the thing home and was only getting a little puff of air each time I would depress the trigger. At very low pressure (around 5 psi) I could get air through it, but if I cranked it up to 60 psi, I wasn't getting any airflow at all. I took the air valve assembly apart (after having the same "how the hell does this thing come apart?" question you did) on both brushes and everything looked identical. So I just started swapping pieces one at a time between the brushes to see where the problem would follow. That got me to the needle/gasket. Since the needles were identical, I checked the gaskets and found the bad one was a lot looser than that good one. From there, I was able to figure out what was wrong. Hopefully, it's the same for you and can be fixed with a $3 O-ring. I can't imagine anything else in the air valve assembly could go bad unless you have big gorilla hands and take out your frustrations on the trigger causing the needle to get bent - even then, it would just leak air. I'd think that complete stoppage could only be from that O ring or some foreign material getting in there and blocking the air passage.
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Jun 24, 2010 15:46
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I have hands like a heart surgeon  I know I probably go overboard cleaning it, but I'm worried that paint will solidify inside it and I don't have any pipe cleaners (though I should). I'll stop by the hardware store and pick up some teeny allen wrenches. I can get a new ring at Blick I think, or just order a couple. I usually clean it that way because it takes forever for the paint I used to dry most of the time.
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Jun 24, 2010 15:50
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hentaipanda posted:Woo, a scale modelling thread! I just started my first ever model, the Apollo 11 lunar module and boy howdy this is an awesome hobby to pick up. So far so good, only broke one little tiny piece and I haven't lost any! Masking tape and silly putty if you need the line to curve. If the colors are off, make sure you mix the paint before you start painting. It can sometimes separate into layers and give a slightly different shade if you leave it still for some time. I tried both painting things on the sprue and assembled, and I like painting the whole thing at once better. You can also do some highlighting effects by painting the whole thing black and then dry brushing successively lighter shades of the color that it's supposed to be on top of that. You'll get good once you do this enough. There are a lot of little things I figured out as I went along that seem obvious now.
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Jun 24, 2010 17:53
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A lot of people paint in assemblies. So you might build the wheelbase of a vehicle and paint all of the supension, tyres etc... then build the engine and paint that... then the crew compartment... Then glue it all together and finish off with detailing and weathering etc This way you won't end up with unpainted parts that you can't reach with a brush but can still see. It also makes it a lot easier painting awkward areas.
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Jun 24, 2010 19:32
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Yeah, that works too. One thing you should remember is that glue makes the paint run a bit. Be careful when gluing painted parts together.
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Jun 25, 2010 00:03
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My attempt to turn this: ... into this:  ... has pretty much ground to a halt, resulting in this:   (I'm going to do something about that Dharma logo, but not sure what at the moment)   Not perfect by any stretch but it looks OK when it's on top of my TV. Windows would be nice, but I have no idea how I could make them. The rear ventilators look a bit crap too but then I carved them out of a wooden peg so give me a break.
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Jun 25, 2010 08:54
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You could make windows by cutting out clear blister packaging plastic.
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Jun 25, 2010 10:31
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MasterSlowPoke posted:You could make windows by cutting out clear blister packaging plastic. I once read that you can use several layers clear nail polish to make windows, of course you'd need to have a mold of some kind... This was back in the early 90's though. I was making a model of the millennium falcon, and I had completely hosed up the cockpit window with my tendancies to be young, stupid and get glue all over my fingers resulting in little melty fingerprints all over everything. I warn you though, the nail polish will melt the standard plastics used in models. I never did finish that model...
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Jun 25, 2010 13:42
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Here's my quick ideas. Paint the Dharma logo a cream or eggshell. Then just weather it with the rest of the car. Hit the areas that would get rained on with a thin mud or dust color wash, the tops of white cars left outside for years and year turn dirt colored very rapidly. Once it's good and dry, do a light rub (with a slightly damp paper towel or your fignernail) to remove the wash from the highest raised areas. Next, get a good rust color and frizzly small brush. You want halfway between painting and drybrushing in paint load. The frizz on the tip of the brush will make streaks of rust that you can pull down from anything you have painted as severely rusted. Finally I would hit it with a VERY dry brush of a dark mud for surface rusting. Run it all around on areas that would get good sun and lots of drainage from rain. Max time for this, 20 min to wash, dry overnight, 10-15min rub, 2-3 min of streaking (use sparingly), then 10 min of drybrushing. Other than this final weathering, it really looks done. Don't worry about windows, they'll never look right. Old rear end car windows never get clean, but they aren't totally frosted either. Sometimes they get this wacky color change surface layer of silica, like those green/purple colorchange automotive paintjobs. Total pain in the rear end to make it weathered properly even if you got the clear plasticard to fit perfectly.
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Jun 25, 2010 13:57
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Hey Skunkduster, the allen key trick worked. I took it apart and found the rubber ring had slide down a bit from the top, so I eased it back into place, put it back together and it works like new! Sweet jesus!
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Jun 25, 2010 16:32
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey Skunkduster, the allen key trick worked. I took it apart and found the rubber ring had slide down a bit from the top, so I eased it back into place, put it back together and it works like new! Sweet jesus!  Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Beats the hell out of buying a whole new valve assmebly!
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Jun 26, 2010 19:32
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SkunkDuster posted:
I'll say. It's still a bit leaky, because it sprays paint when I just press down, which isn't a big deal for me because I usually just basecoat stuff with it. I'll get a new 0 ring next time I'm at the store to finally set it right.
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Jun 26, 2010 20:26
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crime fighting hog posted:I'll say. It's still a bit leaky, because it sprays paint when I just press down Nothing in the air valve would cause it to spray paint. Is the needle fully seated in the head assembly? Also, they make 3 different sized needles and head assemblies. Is it possible you could be using a fine needle with a medium head or something along those lines?
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Jun 27, 2010 03:30
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SkunkDuster posted:Nothing in the air valve would cause it to spray paint. Is the needle fully seated in the head assembly? Also, they make 3 different sized needles and head assemblies. Is it possible you could be using a fine needle with a medium head or something along those lines? No, I only use the large head for the large needle because I mostly work with acrylics.
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Jun 27, 2010 05:37
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I finished my big project not so long ago.     I'm proud of it. Not too shabby for somebody who just got back into the hobby, I think.
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Jul 2, 2010 05:02
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SkunkDuster posted:If you are referring to the space barbie painting thread, it is here: also: lol, but why space barbie?
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Jul 2, 2010 05:06
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I don't know. That's just what the the guy who made the OP refers to them as and I thought it was funny.
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Jul 2, 2010 05:37
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It is because painting little men (space or otherwise) and fighting them is the man-child equilvalent of dressing up your dollies and playing pretend. Edit: Nice work on the Antonov No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Jul 2, 2010 |
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Jul 2, 2010 05:41
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So my second ever model is nearing completion. It's a Saturn V rocket. I got that because it was simple enough for a newbie, big enough, and it's a mother loving rocket! I also got a cheap airbrush and compressor. So, this being my first time using it, I had a lot of forehead slapping moments and I thought I'd list some of them here to hopefully save some despair to other beginner modellers. Most of these points are obvious to the majority of people but somehow I didn't think of them until after I had hosed up. Must've been the thinner fumes Airbrushes rock! They're so much better for large surfaces, the paint is applied a lot more evenly, it dries quicker. However, do practice with it before spraying your model. I've got quite a few spurts and runs on mine, plus if you spray too much near your masking tape it will soak and the paint will go through it eventually. Also, they're a pain to clean. Primer. I didn't use primer on my model and regretted it so much. Ever tried spraying satin white on white plastic? Yeah. It was a pain to figure out which parts I had gone through and which not. Not to mention having to do another 2-3 sprays on the whole thing because the putty marks on the seams are visible under the white coat. Putty. It seemed so drat easy on the tutorials. SO easy. I had a fair bit of trouble with it, I got it smeared, I either put too much or too little, I didn't keep it smooth all along the seam resulting in needless sanding and scraping. Next time I'm using a toothpick. Masking. When first learning to use a paintbrush use a thick masking tape. You'll spray all over the place and that area which was finished will probably get tiny spray marks which will show as they're just under the perfectly coloured stripe that was under the masking tape. Also, do not put tape on a painted bit before it's completely, utterly, 200% dry. Colours and airbrushes. Do not forget to spray some of your new colour outside the model first. Some of the previous colour you used will be stuck in the airbrush and the first sprays will be a mix. That being said, spray lighter colours first, darker ones later. I sprayed black first and then white, and was spraying grey for a good while afterwards. And clean it VERY thoroughly between colour switching. But be careful with the previous issue when spraying dark over light. Mask it very well or you'll have a mist of black over white areas. Well that's my two cents. Feel free to make fun and correct me if I'm wrong somewhere, I could use some tips obviously 
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Jul 5, 2010 10:19
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I got a bunch of paints from a dude who quit 40k, but I think you guys are the nerds who can help me. One of the paints was a pot of Tamiya "Flat Base". It's really thick and I don't think it's a standard acrylic paint. Can anyone what it's used for and tell me how to use it?
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Jul 5, 2010 10:33
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I haven't used it, but a quick search indicated it is some sort of Matt Varnish. If you want to make proper use of it you'll probably need some Tamiya acrylic thinner (X20A).
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Jul 5, 2010 10:50
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