|
_firehawk posted:don't waste your money on slotted or cross drilled rotors. My ride isn't pretty, sporty, fast, or riced out. Its basic, reliable and I want it to last another 5-10 years. What brake parts are decent? Vehicle-specific forum posts are somewhat questionable, I was asking for some suggestions based upon manufacturer reliability, performance (not aggressive performance, I just want the drat thing to stop), durability and perhaps, price. Raybestos and Bendix were suggested but what about some other chain-store brands?
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 05:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 20:02 |
|
|
Question in case anyone here knows much about GMT360 platform SUVs (TrailBlazer, Envoy, all the other rebadges too). My mom's '02 TrailBlazer EXT (with the I6) has shat yet another goddamn fan clutch with that stupid electric-mechanical clutch setup. Just last night I discovered that GM finally fixed the issue for good on the '08 and '09 models by going back to a proper mechanical-only clutch. From the look of things it should be a direct physical fit, but does anyone know for sure if that is indeed the case? Also, I'm thinking I could swap the clutch and use HPTuners to turn off all of the fan-clutch DTCs, since this would be cheaper in the long run than replacing the clutch over and over again.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 06:33
|
|
|
Robawesome posted:I've got a question about paint. I have a seven year old Lincoln with some very small rust spots on the roof and some paint bubbling up in various parts around the car. I've heard Ford is notorious for a lovely factory paint job, and I wasn't too fond of the steel blue in the first place, so I'm thinking about having the car painted. Good paint will cost more than the car is worth.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 06:35
|
|
|
Robawesome posted:I've got a question about paint. I have a seven year old Lincoln with some very small rust spots on the roof and some paint bubbling up in various parts around the car. I've heard Ford is notorious for a lovely factory paint job, and I wasn't too fond of the steel blue in the first place, so I'm thinking about having the car painted. Several grand for a paint job where it's properly stripped and prepped before hand. Several hundred for a lovely Maaco spraydown where you'll have overspray galore, self colored trim, and the paint will bubble right back up where the rust was.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 07:02
|
|
|
I can get a Honda CRX -87 for about $570. Seems healthy with the exception of having a "bad" idling-time. The seller is a woman if that counts for anything. I'm thinking of getting it but what's so great about these cars and are they hard to mech?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 08:40
|
|
|
I have a 97 Honda Accord, and I'm fairly certain my rear brake pads, especially the driver's side need to be replaced. It just started to give me a scrapping noise occasionally when driving and fairly consistently when breaking. Is this something I can do on my own, or is it crazily complex and should be done by a shop? I found a couple guides online and it seems mildy complex, but doable, I am very worried about springs causing pieces to go flying and get lost or something like that.
|
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 09:20
|
|
|
I want to have a go at replacing the window regulator in my Focus (2000), i have no former experience of working on cars but I'm fairly confident I can do basic jobs if I have instructions. Following a guide on the Internet I managed to get the door panel off but behind the door panel is a layer of foam which is attached to some kind of sheet which seemed to be glued by some thick oil-like substance to the metal part of the door. What is the next step here? Do I just peel the foam away from the door to get access to the regulator and just stick it back together once I'm done?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 10:35
|
|
|
Fimbulvetr posted:I can get a Honda CRX -87 for about $570. A CRX for $570? That's a pretty damned good price if it's in even decent shape. There's all kinds of reasons for it to have a bad idle. Some are simple like a vacuum leak and some, like the engine has jumped it's timing, are not. Otherwise the CRX is a very simple vehicle to trouble-shoot and repair. The demand for the CRX is high because it's a light and rigid chassis are they're getting pretty scarce. In my area a running CRX of any generation would go for 3-4 times the price of the one you're looking at if you could find one at all which you can't.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 15:34
|
|
|
Long Wang posted:I want to have a go at replacing the window regulator in my Focus (2000), i have no former experience of working on cars but I'm fairly confident I can do basic jobs if I have instructions. Following a guide on the Internet I managed to get the door panel off but behind the door panel is a layer of foam which is attached to some kind of sheet which seemed to be glued by some thick oil-like substance to the metal part of the door. Yes. Just do your best to take it off nicely and put it back nicely. Sometimes it rips, it's not the end of the world but do it as neatly as your can.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 16:22
|
|
|
If it's aged poorly, the glue will break apart somewhat and you can tear it off by hand. Otherwise, you might need to get a box cutter or something to help you saw it off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 16:58
|
|
|
Fimbulvetr posted:I can get a Honda CRX -87 for about $570. The CRX was a very fun car to drive. Small, square bulldog stance, tons of hatchback room, and pretty cool looking. It is much beloved of ricers, so it's very hard to find one that hasn't been hosed up with a crappy body kit and various tite moddddzzzz. That said, it is an old car, really quite old now, most of them have a ton of miles on them, and they will not do well in an accident (compared to a modern car they're a lot more dangerous). I'd love to get one myself (my wife's first car was a CRX and we both loved it) but not as a daily driver, and I'd be a little worried about safety. Looking around, most decent-shape CRXes in the area are at least $1500, and have at least 150,000 miles. Oh, and don't forget to change the timing belt when it's due. That's how the wife's CRX died.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 17:52
|
|
|
Bocklebee posted:Yes. Just do your best to take it off nicely and put it back nicely. Sometimes it rips, it's not the end of the world but do it as neatly as your can. kimbo305 posted:If it's aged poorly, the glue will break apart somewhat and you can tear it off by hand. Otherwise, you might need to get a box cutter or something to help you saw it off. The foam has already been off two days ago because the regulator broke whilst it was being fixed for something else and the garage opened my door up and manually reset my window position. There's already some rips on the foam.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 18:01
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Good paint will cost more than the car is worth. I doubt that considering the car's still worth 9k or so. pienipple thanks for the response, so like $2000 is a decent ballpark?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 18:20
|
|
|
Robawesome posted:I doubt that considering the car's still worth 9k or so. 2000 would be a steal, more like 4 or 5k.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 18:27
|
|
|
pienipple posted:2000 would be a steal, more like 4 or 5k. gently caress me, that ain't cheap. Thanks for the responses though. Maybe I'll settle for the blue after all.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 18:30
|
|
|
I drive a Honda Jazz from 2005, 1.2L Manual version. I think it's called the Honda Fit outside of europe. Recently it has started making a noise that i hadn't heard before. It has become a bit more frequent in the last few weeks. It seems to come from the front left side of the car and only happens when accelerating in low gears. It is a hard sound to describe but basically sounds like as something is spinning it is rubbing or hitting something else maybe once every revolution and as the car accelerates it happens quicker and quicker. It seems to stop if i put my foot on the clutch and doesn't change while brakeing. Someone suggested that as i had my brake pads and discs changed recently that it could be part of the process of the new ones bedding in and that they may need adjusting. I think the sound did begin after that service so it could be possible. I realise it's hard to judge without hearing it but does anyone have any ideas what it might be? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 18:32
|
|
|
I have some questions about lifting trucks. I'm 18 and I live with my folks, my dad is very knowledgeable on cars and trucks and I think he can fix pretty much anything. He's always been against modifying cars in any way, and I've always been interested in modifying cars. So I want to know all about lifting trucks. I googled it up and didn't come up with much, so I want to know all about how it affects handling, gas mileage, general wear on the chassis, etc. Specifically I'm looking at buying a 95 4x4 hardbody just like one I used to have, except with lower miles and a more solid frame. I would only want to lift it maybe 3" and bump up the tires an inch or two, mostly I just want the tires knobbier rather than bigger. What is the difference between a suspension lift and a body lift, pros & cons, and does lifting a truck necessarily mean that parts are going to wear out quicker? Does getting bigger tires mean finding bigger rims to fit them on? If I only intend to get a body lift OR a suspension lift, which one should I get? Which one is better to have alone? Most big lifts I see are a combination of both. I hope that my questions are pretty clear. I can't find a guide to this anywhere on the net.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
I don't know much specifics about lifting a truck, but having it higher will increase the center of mass. This means more body roll when turning or accelerating/braking. Getting bigger tires, especially nobbies, will hurt fuel economy. You have more rotating mass, so it'll take more to accelerate and you may want to upgrade brakes to help with stopping. Also, nobbies will have a shorter life than dedicated road tires, so expect to replace them more often. And bigger tires are more expensive. Also, bigger tires mean your speedometer/odometer are going to be off unless you compensate for them (not sure how you do that exactly). Getting the truck lifted means your axles are going to be lower than designed for. Your driveshafts/axles will have larger angles, which may or not be out of spec. If the angle it too large, you'll get adverse wear on the them and will need to replace more often. Finally, check the laws in your state to see what the legal limit is for lifting. I think there's a 4x4 thread around here somewhere. Best I found doing a quick search is this pictures thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2755109
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 22:02
|
|
|
One of my rear sway bar mounts has broken. Can this sort of thing be welded, or do I need to buy a new control arm? The broken one.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Non-broken one on the other side.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 22:08
|
|
|
EvilRic posted:It is a hard sound to describe but basically sounds like as something is spinning it is rubbing or hitting something else maybe once every revolution and as the car accelerates it happens quicker and quicker. Is it a tick, a grind, a metallic squeal? What is the duration with respect to a full cycle of the wheels or engine? How much do you have to depress the clutch to silence it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 22:12
|
|
|
If you plan on keeping your car 100% stock, is there any value to installing a custom tune either via chip or plug in tuner?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 23:02
|
|
|
A.o.D. posted:If you plan on keeping your car 100% stock, is there any value to installing a custom tune either via chip or plug in tuner? What are you driving? If it's, say, a 1.8T GTI or Jetta or Subie or something, absolutely. If it's some Camry or something, probably not.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2010 23:10
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Is it a tick, a grind, a metallic squeal? What is the duration with respect to a full cycle of the wheels or engine? How much do you have to depress the clutch to silence it? Sort of a light thud noise like something knocking or brushing against something else perhaps but without much force, just enough to make the noise. It feels like it's once every spin of the wheels, definitely not at the speed of the engine rotation. I think as soon as i start to press the clutch in it stops. The gear changing still seems just as smooth as usual though. Thanks for replying.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 00:10
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend me some good tint? I'm going to be doing it myself since the windows are pretty easy to take completely out of the car, but I don't want some ugly wavy crap. I'm in Phoenix so I primarily want it for heat and UV protection.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 01:35
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Can anyone recommend me some good tint? I'm going to be doing it myself since the windows are pretty easy to take completely out of the car, but I don't want some ugly wavy crap. I'm in Phoenix so I primarily want it for heat and UV protection. Getting the waves out is all in application. Especially after watching the guy do the rear window, it was so worth $150. Clean glass, wet film, rough cut, lay film across the glass on the outside of the car, use a heatgun to shrink to the curves, cut precisely, pull the film off the outside, and apply it inside. I love to DIY, but dang, I can see how that could take a lot of practice on anything but flat/single-curve glass.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 01:49
|
|
|
VanFullOfMidgets posted:What are you driving? If it's, say, a 1.8T GTI or Jetta or Subie or something, absolutely. If it's some Camry or something, probably not. I'm thinking of getting a V6 mustang.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 01:55
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I love to DIY, but dang, I can see how that could take a lot of practice on anything but flat/single-curve glass. Yea, I plan on taking it somewhere to do the back window, mostly because I don't want to crawl around in my back seat in 115 degree weather. I'm more concerned with finding something that has good heat rejection. I have heard Huper Optik is supposed to be (one of?) the best, but I can't find anywhere that will sell it in less than shop quantity, and all the installers of it I can find want like $500 bucks to do an e34, which is far beyond ridiculous.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 02:02
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Regardless of the warranty you choose, you want to make sure it is a "service plan" and not actually a "warranty." This is important with OEM warranties as well. Thanks, this wasn't something I was clear on the differences between. It looks like I'll be going with the Chrysler one. I'm glad I waited on it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 02:16
|
|
|
TheFrailNinja posted:I have some questions about lifting trucks. I'm 18 and I live with my folks, my dad is very knowledgeable on cars and trucks and I think he can fix pretty much anything. He's always been against modifying cars in any way, and I've always been interested in modifying cars. So I want to know all about lifting trucks. I googled it up and didn't come up with much, so I want to know all about how it affects handling, gas mileage, general wear on the chassis, etc. Specifically I'm looking at buying a 95 4x4 hardbody just like one I used to have, except with lower miles and a more solid frame. I would only want to lift it maybe 3" and bump up the tires an inch or two, mostly I just want the tires knobbier rather than bigger. What is the difference between a suspension lift and a body lift, pros & cons, and does lifting a truck necessarily mean that parts are going to wear out quicker? Does getting bigger tires mean finding bigger rims to fit them on? If I only intend to get a body lift OR a suspension lift, which one should I get? Which one is better to have alone? Most big lifts I see are a combination of both. As a general rule of thumb regarding this type of thing, yes, you are going to wear out front suspension components quicker than a stock truck. Changing the geometry leads to some extra wear on items like ball joints and CV half-shafts. Suspension lift is just that, modifies the suspension to increase your ground clearance, where a body lift will not do that. The pros of a suspension lift is that it provides for more ground clearance. Cons: parts wear out quicker, initial expense is higher. Body lift just places the body on spacers/pucks to increase the height of the cab/bed. Pro: cheaper, good for clearing increased tire size at full steering lockup. Cons: might have issues with shift linkages, 4x4 linkages, doesnt do anytihng for offroading. Cons to both are that it tends to change the ride characteristics depending on what extreme you take it. Aside from drag, a lift will not change gas mileage. If you slap bigger tires on it, then yeah, more mass to turn the wheels, more rolling resistance. Check with specific truck forums for kit suggestions Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jul 12, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 02:17
|
|
|
A.o.D. posted:I'm thinking of getting a V6 mustang. I doubt the gain would be enough to make it worth it. The reason I mentioned turbo cars is because you can get a real, genuine 20+hp just by upping the boost. With a typical NA V6 you're not likely to get more than 4-5hp, and it probably won't be cheap. Unless I'm just totally mistaken when it comes to Fords.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 03:18
|
|
|
I'm in the market for a used car. I found something I'm interested in, clean carfax, low miles but it's a 3 hours away. Would it be unusual to make an offer sight unseen?
|
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 03:36
|
|
|
1st_Panzer_Div. posted:I have a 97 Honda Accord, and I'm fairly certain my rear brake pads, especially the driver's side need to be replaced. It just started to give me a scrapping noise occasionally when driving and fairly consistently when breaking. Is this something I can do on my own, or is it crazily complex and should be done by a shop? It's really very simple if you're mechanically inclined at all, possess at least a minimal degree of common sense, and have access to some basic tools (metric wrenches, some screwdrivers, a pair of pliers, and a floor jack). 1. Loosen the lugnuts on the wheel you're gonna work on, but don't take them all the way off yet. 2. Jack the car up. Put a jackstand or some bricks or something under it for support, in case your jack fails. 3. Take the wheel off. 4. The brake caliper (it holds the pads in place) usually has two bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. You can usually just remove the bottom one and swing the caliper up, but if you remove both make sure you tie the caliper to the car so it doesn't hang from the brake line. 5. Take out the old pads. 6. Carefully push the piston back into the caliper. You may have to turn it as you press if it doesn't go straight in. 7. Slot the new pads in, and set the caliper back in place. Once you make sure everything is where it's supposed to be, bolt it all back up. 8. Put the wheel back on, and snug the lugs down. Once you have weight on the wheel again, torque the lugs down hard so your wheel doesn't fall off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 03:36
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:I'm in the market for a used car. I found something I'm interested in, clean carfax, low miles but it's a 3 hours away. Would it be unusual to make an offer sight unseen? "I'll show up with cash ready" has always been enough to get someone to hold it long enough for me to come take a look. Once I took a cashier's check for most of the amount, and a little cash to give myself some bargaining room.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 03:40
|
|
|
I'm in the process of buying a 2010 Ford Fusion SE up here in Canada. I'm looking at the breakdown the sales guy has given me for a day or two before going through with the purchase. Just a few quick questions that I wanted to ask you guys to compare to his answers: - $299.00 Admin Fee, I'm assuming this is some silly minor profit thing for them or the dealership. I'm already getting a significant deal so I'm not worked up over it but if its a pure BS item then I'd like to know. - FPCC Etching $199.00, he explained this as an anti-theft deterrent, I could find literally no information on Google with it. It sounds like VIN etching but he claims it is done at the factory and I have no choice but to pay it. Is that true or is it something they've done at the dealership and are trying to get me to pay for? - I spent 30 minutes saying no to accessories already but are there any accessories generally considered worthwhile at dealership prices? I'm assuming the answer here will be no but I wanted to double check. Thanks for any help!
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 04:04
|
|
|
How much should a good window tinting job be? I know this is kind of relative to who you go to and how good they are at it but what should be the average? This is for a 4-door Jeep XJ (Cherokee). I plan on going as dark as possible; 10% in the rear/back glass, 25% everywhere else except the windshield of course. My laws are here: http://www.tintcenter.com/laws/AR/
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 04:43
|
|
|
chomper posted:How much should a good window tinting job be? I know this is kind of relative to who you go to and how good they are at it but what should be the average? You should be able to find a really good shop for under $200. Find out who other people use.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 04:53
|
|
|
Fimbulvetr posted:I can get a Honda CRX -87 for about $570. Go with an 88+ (second gen) if you can. The first gens have a torsion bar suspension (rust is your enemy here), and even less room under the hood. Plus most likely carbureted instead of fuel injected - 80s honda carburetors are picky when they're in a good mood, and an absolute nightmare when they're not. Go think of the worst vacuum line routing diagram you can possibly imagine, and multiply it by 50. Most of the 88+ were fuel injected, and had more room under the hood, opening your options WAY the gently caress up. Downside is finding an unriced 88+ is, well, nearly impossible. The second gen also, IMO, looked a lot better and handled better. If you do get it, it's a nimble little car. Painfully underpowered in the 1st gen, but a good handler. I wouldn't pay $570 for one though. What kind of problems is it having with idle? If it's bouncing up and down once warmed up, it has a vacuum leak more than likely... and uh, you couldn't pay me enough to try to work on an 80s Honda vacuum system.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 04:55
|
|
|
I'm driving a 2000 Accord V6 through the desert on a road trip. Yesterday (in Vegas luckily) it started really rough idling/idling low after stopping in a parking lot for a little bit, to the point where it wouldn't stay on. It's done this once before in really hot weather, but that time I could get it going by giving it lots of gas. This time it wouldn't stay on even when flooring it, and threw a CEL (codes read misfires on cylinders 1-6). I let it sit for half an hour with the hood up and it started fine. What could cause this (googling leads to maybe a bad coolant temp sensor or bad coil packs), and more importantly, how retarded would I be to drive this as is through the middle of nowhere, Utah. Would this be easy to get fixed in Vegas?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 04:58
|
|
|
I'm already pretty sure I know the answer to this but I might as well ask. Can I use an LPG cutoff solenoid for low (0PSI) petrol? I realise the answer is probably "No! X bad thing will happen and you will die in a fire". I'm just asking because I have a couple of spares.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 05:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 20:02 |
|
|
eddiewalker posted:You should be able to find a really good shop for under $200. Find out who other people use. Yeah, most places i've been calling around have been between $150-$180. Most of my friends have never done aftermarket tint and the few that have got it are "illegal" (5% limo tint) and they payed $150 from the same place. Their tint looks great, but if someone does illegal tint for people (and charges an extra $20 for it) should I be worried about their "business practices"? Or is doing illegal tint pretty common for tint shops? And what is the likelihood of cops pulling someone over for illegal tint? Sometimes I partake in  and don't want to get hosed for something stupid like window tint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2010 05:29
|
|