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PaintVagrant posted:Wow I had a couple hours to work on my own poo poo That Masters brush cleaner he's standing on reminds me: Masters Brush Cleaning Soap cuts through dried washes like a hot knife through butter. Not sure if it's relevant to anyone else, but I thought it was a useful discovery.
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Jul 13, 2010 06:48
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*posts newest mini, feels good about self PV posts something he shat out, looks amazing * 
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Jul 13, 2010 07:00
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WOW! PV, that is an awesome fig. It would have taken me all day to paint something like that and it wouldn't have turned out as nice.
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Jul 13, 2010 07:05
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I don't know if I'm sold on the poses of those models, but PV that is an awesome paintjob. I love the helmet. 
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Jul 13, 2010 07:50
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Pro tip: When you're painting a miniature and it's starting to go well for once, don't spaz out and drop it on the floor, putting a giant chip in the paint job. 
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Jul 13, 2010 09:37
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PaintVagrant posted:Wow I had a couple hours to work on my own poo poo Love that checker pattern on the smooth side of the Zero. I need to get my infinity stuff primed so I can start working on it.
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Jul 13, 2010 10:24
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive never tried tattoo inks, how fast do they dry? About as fast as drawing ink, maybe a little faster because there's more pigment than medium. They're also cheap as hell and super concentrated, so one bottle of ink will get you enough of that color to wash every miniature you'll ever paint in your life.
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Jul 13, 2010 11:08
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That is really excellent PV. I need to practice more but it is so humid outside I can't prime anything.
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Jul 13, 2010 13:36
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I love how "a couple of hours" for guys like PV means "doing a mini to a high standard" while for guys like me it means "getting splotchy, blunt highlights on five figures' cloaks done and feeling extremely ambiguous about it". ranked up on the table, this will look loving awesome. Roll with it!
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Jul 13, 2010 13:45
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The cloak effect is great. It's a good technique. Contrasty and Direct.
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Jul 13, 2010 15:44
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I've started painting my Menoth warjacks and I'm having trouble trying to effectively shade menoth white base armor plates on the warjack. I'm currently painting a Dervish http://privateerpress.com/files/products/the-protectorate-of-menoth/warjacks/dervish.png and I'm having trouble making my coats transition from the base to the shade color (which I'm mixing base with cryx bane highlight per the menoth book for). I'm watering down my shade heavily and adding a drop of medium hoping this will give me a thin almost translucent but even coat, but for some reason I'm not sure if it's my inexperience with trying to locate shadows on the armor, or what, that has it coming out unsatisfactory. Does anyone have any tips or know of any guides for shading white plate armor? I think with practice it'll make more sense to me, I just hope I can get the swing of it soon so I can start putting out badass minis. I'll take photos and post em tonight of my failures.
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Jul 13, 2010 16:21
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Bizarro Buddha posted:Pro tip: When you're painting a miniature and it's starting to go well for once, don't spaz out and drop it on the floor, putting a giant chip in the paint job. Also, don't drop it into the pot of glue you're using to base it. 
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Jul 13, 2010 17:24
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Tadhg posted:Also, don't drop it into the pot of glue you're using to base it. I've dropped guys straight into my wet palette before. Don't do this, either.
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Jul 13, 2010 17:27
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Korwen posted:I've started painting my Menoth warjacks and I'm having trouble trying to effectively shade menoth white base armor plates on the warjack. I'm currently painting a Dervish http://privateerpress.com/files/products/the-protectorate-of-menoth/warjacks/dervish.png and I'm having trouble making my coats transition from the base to the shade color (which I'm mixing base with cryx bane highlight per the menoth book for). I'm watering down my shade heavily and adding a drop of medium hoping this will give me a thin almost translucent but even coat, but for some reason I'm not sure if it's my inexperience with trying to locate shadows on the armor, or what, that has it coming out unsatisfactory. Does anyone have any tips or know of any guides for shading white plate armor? I think with practice it'll make more sense to me, I just hope I can get the swing of it soon so I can start putting out badass minis. I'll take photos and post em tonight of my failures. You should try a 2 step blend, basically the light color and the dark color blocked in, when you apply the darker color try to apply it "feathered" so the edge of it isnt a straight line. After that dries, take the lighter color and thin it, and glaze it over the transition between the dark and light. It takes some practice, but it should give you a decent blended result without a ton of layering
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Jul 13, 2010 17:34
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Aranan posted:I've dropped guys straight into my wet palette before. Don't do this, either. Last night I started dozing off while working on my oath. Not full on sleeping, but that 3 second micro-nap stage. Woke up with a start, like you do. Caused me to smear metallic paint all across the mini. 
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Jul 13, 2010 17:37
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I just had an idea. I was trying to find a way to keep my brass rods organized with the right sized drill bits and I remembered that the Winsor & Newton S7 brushes I bought came in some sturdy, clear plastic tubes. Ta-da. Now I've got a tube for my 1.95mm, 1.25mm, 0.85mm, and 0.5mm rods.
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Jul 13, 2010 18:08
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Aetilus posted:I hope they deal with that flash problem soon. at least on the most recent metals from gw, glaring casting errors and pieces that don't fit are becoming rarer and rarer. Sorry, but this comment had me thinking (for 2 pages, again sorry) I think GW is working on this. By converting their entire lineup to plastic. Every army iteration is mostly new plastics with a few hero characters in metal thrown in. They've explicitly stated their last big price jump was over the price of metals. They have new technology for designing plastics (CAD) that allow them to design cheaper, faster, and with more intricacy. Their plastic kits often come with complete unit options and are starting to have replaceable weapon options. Add the fact that they can charge the same price as for metals (see plastic Empire Greatswords) and I don't see a business model for having any metals by 2020. edit: PaintVagrant posted:Cool only 10 more years of garbage casts Oh and GW just put up advance order on the new Chaos Demons. 3 new plastic kits and one metal character. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 20:15
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Cool only 10 more years of garbage casts
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Jul 13, 2010 20:18
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I had just got the Marine casualties and I swear, every special order's molds are not well maintained or they just couldn't give a gently caress about the piece when they pour. I had the same problems (EXTREME FLASH) with my marine casualties that I do with my BFG fleet... and those molds are fairly old AFAIK.
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Jul 13, 2010 20:24
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IDK, i think that single character models will probably stay metal unless they start making all of them like the space marine commander kit or the empire wizard kit. to make plastic worth it they need to design sprues with a shitload of options that justify the mold. with metal you can have a 3 piece guy like queek headtaker that might not have the marketability of a more generic character without having to put out for a costly plastic mold Aetilus fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jul 13, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 22:01
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A little cross-postin here. Sorry about that, but I just remembered there is an actual painting thread I need some feedback on stormvermin color scheme. Old school dark red armor with black fur or white fur with green robes and bronze/gold armor? Please ignore the rough brush strokes, I was just slathering on some paint on the front of the mini to get a feel of the scheme. I also got some input to do the armor like the left one, but paint the cloth red, but I haven't tried it in practice yet. Gonna do it right now and post a pic of that as well.  Click here for the full 1056x792 image.  Click here for the full 1056x792 image.  Click here for the full 599x635 image. Not a viking fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jul 14, 2010 |
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Jul 13, 2010 23:42
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I personally don't mind Metal character or hero models, personally. I only have a problem when the molds are not maintained properly or they say gently caress it and throw lovely casts in to meet their quota (I'm completely speculating on the quota thing, btw).
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Jul 13, 2010 23:47
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poo poo. No work in progress shots tonight either.
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Jul 14, 2010 00:45
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Who just primed like 30 sea guard and goreshade and seether? This guy  It looked like I hotboxed my garage when I opened the door.
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Jul 14, 2010 00:47
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I can only prime outside, it's too loving humid to do so.
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Jul 14, 2010 00:48
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Jarofmoldymayo posted:I can only prime outside, it's too loving humid to do so. I feel your pain. It's also 101 without humidity
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Jul 14, 2010 00:54
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To any one looking at Ott Lights Jo Ann fabrics has them 40% off this week. If you find any other coupons they can stack as well. I got 2 of their desk lights for $18 each (they list for $70) thanks to that model being on sale + my wifes teacher discount card. I will give a better trip report when I get to play with them tonight.
Backno fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jul 14, 2010 |
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Jul 14, 2010 01:29
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It's usually either too dusty + windy or too cold + damp to spray prime effectively. That's why gesso is a godsend. After putting gesso on 200 models, though, I'm beginning to have fond memories of spray primer.
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Jul 14, 2010 01:45
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I was airbrushing my high elves when my airbrush randomly started spitting water what seemed every few minutes. It happened after about ten minutes of the compressor running, so I wonder if maybe it started to collect moisture?
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Jul 14, 2010 03:00
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crime fighting hog posted:I was airbrushing my high elves when my airbrush randomly started spitting water what seemed every few minutes. It happened after about ten minutes of the compressor running, so I wonder if maybe it started to collect moisture? All air compressors get water in them by the act of compressing air. You need to bleed the tank dry every once and a while but to stop it happening while painting get an in-line dryer. This is what I have: http://www.princessauto.com/air/compressor-accessories/secondary-accessories/8105470-in-line-desiccant-air-dryer
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Jul 14, 2010 03:13
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Indolent Bastard posted:All air compressors get water in them by the act of compressing air. You need to bleed the tank dry every once and a while but to stop it happening while painting get an in-line dryer. How does this stuff work? Where do I hook it up?
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Jul 14, 2010 03:21
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Tadhg posted:It's usually either too dusty + windy or too cold + damp to spray prime effectively. That's why gesso is a godsend. Enlighten me, what is gesso?
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Jul 14, 2010 03:24
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Jarofmoldymayo posted:Enlighten me, what is gesso? A bunch of crap. It's basically a brush on primer to give the surface "tooth," it's primary use is to give canvases tooth to begin painting on and comes in a variety of colors. A lot of warham goons swear by it. I bought some one winter and tried it, but I had trouble getting it to work right for me. After it cured and shrank, I had a bunch of spots of bare plastic and just waited for a warm enough day to spray prime those models again. If you have more patience (or whatever you need to work with gesso, you'll find it in the painting aisle of any craft store. It's in the same aisle as the brushes at my local Micheal's. EDIT: Yes, I used the black stuff. Iron Crowned fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jul 14, 2010 |
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Jul 14, 2010 03:42
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But then you just paint over the bare spots with gesso...?  I find that you can (generally) just brush it on plastic models, whereas with metal models it helped to water the stuff down just a bit and do a few layers.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:17
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yeah gesso straight from the bottle and a big brush is all you need for plastic. I find it very useful because when I used to spray prime I ended up missing a lot of the model due to the angle of the can and had to go back and hand prime anyway. a sloppy coat of gesso will dry perfectly and covers great in one application. Also, putting it over your ballast sand will bond it to your base much better than just glue and paint. it covers metal well enough but you probably will have to go back and hit the bald spots again and are probably better off with spray in the long run.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:27
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Bizarro Buddha posted:Pro tip: When you're painting a miniature and it's starting to go well for once, don't spaz out and drop it on the floor, putting a giant chip in the paint job.  crime fighting hog posted:Who just primed like 30 sea guard and goreshade and seether? Good to see they went to a good home: forgot to ask, did everything get to you okay? Nothing busted into tiny little pieces?
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Jul 14, 2010 04:29
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Sole.Sushi posted:Good to see they went to a good home: forgot to ask, did everything get to you okay? Nothing busted into tiny little pieces? Everything arrived nicely. They only broke when I started prying them apart like a giant manchild that I am.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:36
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My first few experiences with gesso were disasterous. I used white gesso to prime two landspeeders; didn't water it down, and slathered it on kind of thick after being told "it shrinks to form a skin-tight bond!" After painting, my landspeeder looks like it has a thin candy shell. It turns out that it will gladly pool in cracks and crevasses, as well as fill/join gaps if you let it. Now I treat it almost like a wet drybrushing job, using the absolute minimum of watered down (black) gesso to get the job done. It still requires touch ups as it dries (even on plastics, if you're doing it thin enough,) but I find that the final product of a good gesso job is better than a good spray primer job. Plus, my minis don't smell like primer for weeks if I don't paint them right away. I agree, white gesso is largely crap for minis. I've heard a bunch of tricks on how to make it better, but haven't had a chance or inclination to try them out just yet.
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Jul 14, 2010 04:47
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Tadhg posted:My first few experiences with gesso were disasterous. I used white gesso to prime two landspeeders it does suck balls for the large flat surfaces that you find on vehicles. VVVV if you are just using black, you won't be dissapointed with krylon flat Aetilus fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jul 14, 2010 |
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Jul 14, 2010 04:54
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I have been using Dupli-Color sandable primer for all my priming. I haven't bought any in quite some time. I went to buy some recently at Auto Zone (where I had picked it up several times before) and they said they don't carry it anymore and are switching their stock to Krylon. Where else can I find some Dupli-Color?
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Jul 14, 2010 05:10
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