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Mithril silver is the best covering metallic paint, you can thin the gently caress out of it and it still cover pretty damned well
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Jul 15, 2010 15:52
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MasterSlowPoke posted:your chaos lord and horrors were Really Good Yeah I know, it's maddening. Maybe it's just horses then. gently caress horses.
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Jul 15, 2010 16:12
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Since summer has set in here in Texas I've had a hell of a time doing any spray priming. I'm using boring old white krylon spray paint. I know I should be holding things about a foot away from me. The problem is that it's always above 90 temperature or above 55 humidity. Do anyone have any tips? Is temperature more important than humidity, or visa versa? I'm getting a dusty, bumpy look.
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Jul 15, 2010 18:19
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counterspin posted:Since summer has set in here in Texas I've had a hell of a time doing any spray priming. I'm using boring old white krylon spray paint. I know I should be holding things about a foot away from me. The problem is that it's always above 90 temperature or above 55 humidity. Do anyone have any tips? Is temperature more important than humidity, or visa versa? I'm getting a dusty, bumpy look. Temperature is generally only a problem if it's too low. Your problem is probably humidity that is too high. I don't know how to solve the problem other than to prime inside. ):
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Jul 15, 2010 18:34
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Well, if that's the case I can probably prime any day, as long as I do it at the crack of noon. Interesting, I'll have to give it a try. You can prime below 55% humidity normally, right?
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Jul 15, 2010 18:38
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counterspin posted:Well, if that's the case I can probably prime any day, as long as I do it at the crack of noon. Interesting, I'll have to give it a try. You can prime below 55% humidity normally, right? I don't know about what humidity level is best but you can always try it out on a piece of sprue or something first.
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Jul 15, 2010 19:08
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That is an awesome idea. I was gonna sacrifice another poor jumpacker.
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Jul 15, 2010 19:10
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counterspin posted:Since summer has set in here in Texas I've had a hell of a time doing any spray priming. I'm using boring old white krylon spray paint. I know I should be holding things about a foot away from me. The problem is that it's always above 90 temperature or above 55 humidity. Do anyone have any tips? Is temperature more important than humidity, or visa versa? I'm getting a dusty, bumpy look. Short close quick bursts when its hot out, or else you'll get the fuzzys. Don't spray when its over 50% humidity. Best to do it in the early morning like 7-8am if it didnt rain the night before.
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Jul 15, 2010 20:52
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Bobx66 posted:Ya GW's metalics are just about the only paint I use from their line anymore. Their washes are another story. On a related note, why didn't you just buy Boltgun instead of mixing mithril? More control? The only Citadel paints I own are from a starter box a friend gave me as a present last year (now a discontinued item, I believe.) The only metallic in the set was Mithril silver, so that's all I have on hand from Citadel. And the FLGS isn't open at 2am. PaintVagrant posted:Mithril silver is the best covering metallic paint, you can thin the gently caress out of it and it still cover pretty damned well Apparently so, yeah. I've seriously never had metallic paint that covered and flowed that well before. It was *magical* 
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Jul 15, 2010 21:31
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So am I going to be getting the stink-eye from my wife for coming home with replacements for all my non-metalic and non-wash citadel paints? What colours are best from each company? P3 has good red and menoth white? Vallejo has ?? If I were to take a run to the hobby shop, what should be on my shopping list?
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Jul 15, 2010 21:40
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P3 everything except for a few VGC and VMC paints, GW washes and metallics. VGC is pretty baller, but its basically the exact same colors as the GW range, whereas P3 has a bunch of unique colors. VMC is cool, but its pretty fragile and has a lot more matte finish than most miniature paints. Its closer to a regular fine arts paint.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:43
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Well, it looks like I'm going to be bringing home a few bottles of paint for the weekend to see what's what! Should have the basement in the right state to work down there too, for the first time in months.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:47
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I find that VGC behaves a lot better for me than the Citadel equivalents (metallics notwithstanding.) Smoother, thin better, flow better. Citadels feel like I'm painting with latex paint, sometimes. VMC is much more matte in the end, kind of like painting with suspended pastel pigments sometimes. I find the Vallejo dropper bottles are much easier for putting paint on a pallette than Citadel's bolter shells. I dislike scooping paint out with a stirrer or brush, I always feel like I'm wasting some paint. Droppers make it easier to measure paint when mixing/thinning with water. Also, Bolter Shells = 12ml of paint. Dropper = 17ml of paint. Vallejo is somehow a fifty cents to a dollar cheaper, depending on the store.
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Jul 15, 2010 21:55
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Tadhg posted:I find that VGC behaves a lot better for me than the Citadel equivalents (metallics notwithstanding.) Smoother, thin better, flow better. Citadels feel like I'm painting with latex paint, sometimes. VMC is much more matte in the end, kind of like painting with suspended pastel pigments sometimes. They are doing away with the "boltershell" bottles and moving everything toward the foundation/wash pots.
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Jul 15, 2010 22:00
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magnetbox posted:They are doing away with the "boltershell" bottles and moving everything toward the foundation/wash pots. Which are just a lower quality version of the boltershell design. Cheaper plastic sides, cheaper hinge. Still have to dip the brush directly into the pot, or scoop it out into a pallette.
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Jul 15, 2010 22:10
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magnetbox posted:They are doing away with the "boltershell" bottles and moving everything toward the foundation/wash pots. Ugh, gently caress no. Those things are loving terrible. Everytime I go to open my pot of Tausept Ochre, the entire lid comes off. I've had a pot of Badab Black dry out entirely because they don't always snap shut completely. Goddamn it. Now I guess I'll have to buy empty dropper bottles.
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Jul 15, 2010 22:50
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Ugh, gently caress no. Those things are loving terrible. Everytime I go to open my pot of Tausept Ochre, the entire lid comes off. I've had a pot of Badab Black dry out entirely because they don't always snap shut completely. You and me both, Goon-sir.
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Jul 16, 2010 00:05
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GW should go back to the hex flip-tops from the early nineties, those are probably the best design that they have had so far. Although even the current ones are much better than the loving terrible hex screw-tops that dried out in mere minutes. I think that half my GW paints are actually hex flip-tops I bought in the nineties, and most of them are still useable. I have an unopened Enchanted Blue that I am saving for, uh, something.
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Jul 16, 2010 01:12
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I liked the idea of dropper bottles, but they clogged up on me and I'd have to stick a pin in them to clear the nozzle out so I could use them and it's just a big pain. the P3 flip top containers are workign well so far--haven't had stuff dry out and now that I'm used to using a brush to get paint onto my palette, it isn't a hassle.
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Jul 16, 2010 03:47
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The trick with p3 flip tops is to keep the top clean, otherwise you end up putting a lot of force on them to close and open them, which ends up snapping the hinge eventually.
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Jul 16, 2010 04:02
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sansuki posted:Hello, looking for some feedback for this Being hyper-critical, the metal looks like tin bits, which to me is too rusty for a chaos metal, a brighter bronze often works better. It also looks like you've highlighted metal, which is often not a good idea unless it's a directly lighter colour (or mithril silver on gold). You may need to add some more depth to the red, through having a wash (badab or delvan, unless you feel like making a fancier colour) before the highlight, or a further highlight of half blood red, half blazing orange.
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Jul 16, 2010 10:09
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Guess its time I finally stopped lurking and posted something =) Please keep in mind my lamp is broken and I had to improvise and use the sun.     I'm still pretty new to painting but C&C is always welcome and sorry for the shoddy pics =) Edited to try some different pics. wickedkarma fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 11:44
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Is that cloak part of the original model, or did you sculpt it yourself?
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Jul 16, 2010 11:53
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Original I wish I was that good =(
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Jul 16, 2010 11:57
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wickedkarma posted:Original I wish I was that good =( Only asking because it has the look of a decently greensculpted cloak.  As far as painting feedback, it's a bit hard to make out much in the way of colors on the model. You didn't have great light, but sometimes photoshop/GIMP can help brighten the picture and bring out the colors for better viewing.
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Jul 16, 2010 12:03
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After some fast learning to use a photo editor I have replaced the old washed out images with the fancy new images =). Hopefully these will be better.
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Jul 16, 2010 12:48
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wickedkarma posted:After some fast learning to use a photo editor I have replaced the old washed out images with the fancy new images =). Hopefully these will be better. You hit the "I'm feeling lucky" button on picassa didn't you.
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Jul 16, 2010 14:58
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wickedkarma posted:Guess its time I finally stopped lurking and posted something =) His right arm looks like it's bare metal; did you not prime him?
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Jul 16, 2010 15:23
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Vallejo Dark Rust paint, which is like a non-metallic GW tin bitz appears to actually have metal in. When I was painting around the edge of a magnet on a model, it flowed really oddly and then separated into a bright orange rust colour and a darker brown. How curious!
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Jul 16, 2010 19:52
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:His right arm looks like it's bare metal; did you not prime him? The rest of him is primed that arm is just held on with bluetac it will be primed before its permanently attached no worries =).
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Jul 16, 2010 20:44
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Jonny Nox posted:So am I going to be getting the stink-eye from my wife for coming home with replacements for all my non-metalic and non-wash citadel paints? Vallejo talk: Foundation White is really good for a white with serious coverage. I also like VMC Oily Steel - it's a good base metallic and looks superb with badab black washed over it. Panzer Aces Dark Rust is a great jack-of-all trades non-metallic rusty red-brown. VMC Smoke is also an incredibly useful paint-wash type hybrid.
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Jul 16, 2010 20:55
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Finished the first Sanguine Guard to go with my Sanguinor that I posted what seems like months ago now. Did the gold slightly differently to that and I think it worked better this time. Also i'd like to reiterate never ever use any spray varnish from GW. Nearly destroyed this model if I didnt know about brushing on gloss varnish to fix frosting. Anyway, what do you guys think?  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 21:20
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How does brushing on gloss varnish work exactly? Do you do this at the end of the painting process or at the beginning?
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Jul 16, 2010 22:08
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counterspin posted:How does brushing on gloss varnish work exactly? Do you do this at the end of the painting process or at the beginning? Occasionally (always with GW satin spray varnish) if the climactic conditions arent absolutely perfect when you spray satin varnish it doesnt cover correctly and you end up with pits in the varnish. This causes it to look like you've blown sugar over the model and makes people cry. If you brush gloss varnish over the top it will fill in the pits, smooth everything out again and return the model to how it should look, just with a gloss finish. Spray the satin over the top of that and it should turn out right. I'm going to brush gloss on every model before I even spray it satin from now on to prevent any accidents.
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Jul 16, 2010 22:12
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Or you can spray gloss then do the matte varnish, for nearly invincible paintjobs 
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Jul 16, 2010 22:24
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So I can spray satin polyurethane back over my glossy polyurethane-sealed models, and it'll get rid of some of the gloss? That's good to know. I've been meaning to cut down on my army's shine-factor. (no I dont use gw)
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Jul 16, 2010 23:10
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Yup. Id prob test it first, since every product is a little different, but yeah it definitely works.
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Jul 16, 2010 23:43
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PaintVagrant posted:Or you can spray gloss then do the matte varnish, for nearly invincible paintjobs AKA 'Bullet Coating' (always do this)
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Jul 17, 2010 02:07
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I've been repainting some of my ancient Eldar, and while I love the look and it makes me nostalgic to paint things I bought when I was 14, it also makes me really appreciate the quality of new casting. It's not just the 'holding gun sidewise with weird weapon depth', there are lots of things like the myriad gems that are basically just tiny lumps - on newer stuff they often have defined settings, etc.
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Jul 17, 2010 03:06
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How do I keep the static grass on my minis from getting all frosted by the sealant sprays? Will it stay on if I seal the whole thing first, or what? Both of my totally finished stuff looks like a frosty November morning because of this.
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Jul 17, 2010 03:16
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