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Misplaced Yankee posted:Any suggestions for how to buy a used Audi TT? I've seen a handful around here go for low/under KBB lately, and thinking one would be a better car then what I'm currently driving (1986 Pontiac Fiero.... yeah, I know). Like the AWD function, so what questions should I be asking? I know the timing belt should be replaced, but other then that, what should I know? Is it 70, 80, or 100k when it needs to be done? Any advice would be appreciated, just paid off my other car so now I can shop. I'm looking at around the 10k price tag. The Haldex diff is a pretty tough unit - I've only seen one fail and we've got a lot of TT's on the road in my area. The t-belt service interval changes depending on the model year but it'll be in the owner's manual if it's still with the vehicle and if it's not, a little Google-fu should have the info you need. The 1.8T engines have all had or are in the process of having their coils replaced by a huge Audi recall so its likely that any TT you find will have updated ones. Generally the TT is pretty reliable so there aren't many real problems with them. As DogDodger said, the cluster can be a problem but any VW/Audi product with the red digital display will eventually degrade - it's only a matter of time. The TT is a very fun machine to drive - very rigid chassis with a decent powerplant and better than average suspension. Test drive as many as you can before you buy - a TT that's been driven hard will show itself once you know what to look for.
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Jul 18, 2010 01:21
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my1999gsr posted:The Haldex diff is a pretty tough unit - I've only seen one fail and we've got a lot of TT's on the road in my area. The t-belt service interval changes depending on the model year but it'll be in the owner's manual if it's still with the vehicle and if it's not, a little Google-fu should have the info you need. The 1.8T engines have all had or are in the process of having their coils replaced by a huge Audi recall so its likely that any TT you find will have updated ones. Generally the TT is pretty reliable so there aren't many real problems with them. As DogDodger said, the cluster can be a problem but any VW/Audi product with the red digital display will eventually degrade - it's only a matter of time. I'll be able to probably test-drive half a dozen or so as soon as I can schedule it. What should I look for in a suspension? Just uneven wear patterns or "not feeling right"? Extra bounce in the shocks? I enjoy the fact that you say it's a fun machine to drive. That's really all I'm looking for. As for the google-fu I'd say I've really annoyed a couple of car salesmen due to the fact that I look things up on my phone when they step away for a minute.....But I'd rather know information from a party not interested in selling a car. As for quattroworld.com, no one's selling around Indianapolis, Western New York, or Charlotte, North Carolina. Those are really the only places I'd be interested in shopping. (Live in indy, family worth visiting in the other two locations).
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Jul 18, 2010 04:47
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Why didn't VAG recall the VR6 coilpack? Pre-24 valve engines. There are a lot of failures due to the housing cracking and letting in moisture.
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Jul 18, 2010 05:46
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Anyone know if they're making any progress on breaking the encryption on the 2010 GTI ECU so it doesn't need to be removed to tune it? I'm kinda freaked out about the idea of having it taken out to be tuned, someone sell me on the idea if it really is safe and isn't going to gently caress me over.
Antigen v2.0 fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 07:21
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Misplaced Yankee posted:I'll be able to probably test-drive half a dozen or so as soon as I can schedule it. What should I look for in a suspension? Just uneven wear patterns or "not feeling right"? Extra bounce in the shocks? I enjoy the fact that you say it's a fun machine to drive. That's really all I'm looking for. As for the google-fu I'd say I've really annoyed a couple of car salesmen due to the fact that I look things up on my phone when they step away for a minute.....But I'd rather know information from a party not interested in selling a car. The TT's suspension is tight - if there's anything at all wrong with it you'll notice it on the test drive. It definitely won't be bouncy at all and turn-in will be solid and crisp. If you give me till tomorrow evening I can check my service literature and give you the timing belt interval info for the various years of TT. Try looking for a TT/Audi-specific user group in your area - maybe on VWVortex - they'll have a classified section that might help you find more TTs for sale.
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Jul 18, 2010 15:33
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wav3form posted:Why didn't VAG recall the VR6 coilpack? Pre-24 valve engines. There are a lot of failures due to the housing cracking and letting in moisture. Compared to the rate of failure for the coils in the 1.8T, 2.0T, 2.7TT, FSI/non-FSI 4.2L, 6.0L, 3.2L, 3.6L engines, the coil packs in the VR6 aren't even in the same ball-park. Even prior to the recall we'd replaced so many coils that we kept them in milk crates before they were sent back for warranty. The real reason the recall was released was that we were getting cars in with a misfire so we'd follow the diag. procedure, find a coil was at fault, replace it and send the customer on their way. In many cases this was done under warranty so Audi of Canada paid for about an hour of diag. plus the coil. The problem was that we'd send the customer on their way and they'd be back in a week or so with another cylinder misfire so we'd log another hour of diag plus another coil, again paid for by VW/Audi of Canada. This process would usually repeat itself until all the coils had been replaced. VW/Audi warranty got sick of paying out for the repeated diag and parts so they issued a TSB/Recall about it. The VR6 coils hardly ever failed while under warranty so Audi/VW didn't issue a recall/TSB. The current coil recall looks like it's to satisfy the customer but it's really about not paying for me to diagnose a bad coil. Fun fact: the day the recall notice was mailed out to customers, VW cut the price of the coils by more than half. Sorry about the wall of text!
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Jul 18, 2010 15:54
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Antigen v2.0 posted:Anyone know if they're making any progress on breaking the encryption on the 2010 GTI ECU so it doesn't need to be removed to tune it? I'm kinda freaked out about the idea of having it taken out to be tuned, someone sell me on the idea if it really is safe and isn't going to gently caress me over. I don't like to use bad language, but getting the ECU out of any of the 5th gen VW vehicles is a straight-up cocksucker of a job. VW uses 2 security bolts the secure a tamper-proof cover over the plug and they're thread-locked with red Loctite. If there's a way around that I'd be really interested too!
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Jul 18, 2010 16:01
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my1999gsr posted:I don't like to use bad language, but getting the ECU out of any of the 5th gen VW vehicles is a straight-up cocksucker of a job. VW uses 2 security bolts the secure a tamper-proof cover over the plug and they're thread-locked with red Loctite. If there's a way around that I'd be really interested too! They basically saw off the security bolts and put new ones on. I got my APR flash done today at waterfest and it was done in under an hour. They had 8 lanes set up, hooked each car up to the computer and got you in their system, and then the MK6 models had to go into the lanes with a big tent around it where they did the work. The torque increase is pretty insane, not to mention the horsepower. No tax, 4 programs and no labor fee you would get at most shops. I maybe should have taken advantage of the intake discount cause they were doing that there as well. Maybe next year.
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Jul 18, 2010 23:02
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Why does the ECU have to be removed? Has VW started cracking down on aftermarket ECU tuners?
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Jul 19, 2010 03:51
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DropShadow posted:Why does the ECU have to be removed? Has VW started cracking down on aftermarket ECU tuners? For 2010 they started encrypting the ECU firmware flash process... so yeah to flash you need to have physical access to the ECU instead of just using the port.
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Jul 19, 2010 15:23
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^^^that reminds me. I need to get my car flashed this weekend before the APR sale ends.my1999gsr posted:Most non-VW shops just can't wrap their heads around the idea of removing the front bumper cover and partially removing the whole front end of the car to access the belt and tensioner so they screw around forever trying other methods. That was exactly the problem. The funny part is, it was a VW dealership. Albeit in podunk texas and my dad put 120k on his car in just under 3 years. This was back in 2001, and he bought one of the first 1.8t passats from that dealership.
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Jul 19, 2010 20:50
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I've had friends that, upon getting MS3s and WRXs, wouldn't shut the car down without letting it idle at rest for a while, presumably to let the turbocharger get down to a safer temperature. However, my friend with a 2009 GTI doesn't do this. Is this because the cooling setup is better on it, or because my other friends are wasting time and gas for cars that don't need it either?
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Jul 19, 2010 22:39
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BonzoESC posted:I've had friends that, upon getting MS3s and WRXs, wouldn't shut the car down without letting it idle at rest for a while, presumably to let the turbocharger get down to a safer temperature. However, my friend with a 2009 GTI doesn't do this. Is this because the cooling setup is better on it, or because my other friends are wasting time and gas for cars that don't need it either? When you shut the car off and get out a fan starts whirring so I think it already has methods to cool itself.
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Jul 19, 2010 23:51
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JHVH-1 posted:When you shut the car off and get out a fan starts whirring so I think it already has methods to cool itself. The main worry is oil to the turbo, if the turbo does not have a resevoir or bath, then shutting off the car too quickly after having the turbo spooled can leave the turbo without oil to lubricate it as it spins down. But it should only take about 15-20 seconds for the turbo to de-spool and enough oil to be present for engine shutdown
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Jul 20, 2010 00:53
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BonzoESC posted:I've had friends that, upon getting MS3s and WRXs, wouldn't shut the car down without letting it idle at rest for a while, presumably to let the turbocharger get down to a safer temperature. However, my friend with a 2009 GTI doesn't do this. Is this because the cooling setup is better on it, or because my other friends are wasting time and gas for cars that don't need it either? I believe that any of the turbo VW/Audi cars have an after run coolant pump to circulate coolant as well as the rad fans running after shut down. We've got one customer with a highly modded 2.7T that has an aftermarket turbo timer as well but generally a stock motor doesn't really need it.
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Jul 20, 2010 00:58
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my1999gsr posted:I believe that any of the turbo VW/Audi cars have an after run coolant pump to circulate coolant as well as the rad fans running after shut down. We've got one customer with a highly modded 2.7T that has an aftermarket turbo timer as well but generally a stock motor doesn't really need it. Heck, my 1981 Rabbit, 1989 Jetta, and 1991 Jetta will run the fan after the car is shut off if the coolant is too warm. Mainly because the fan relay is triggered via the sensor on the radiator which is wired directly into the 12v battery line CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 01:02
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CommieGIR posted:The main worry is oil to the turbo, if the turbo does not have a resevoir or bath, then shutting off the car too quickly after having the turbo spooled can leave the turbo without oil to lubricate it as it spins down. Yeah, coking of the turbo because of the heat they generate can be a problem but I've never seen a stock turbo have a problem with it. Not saying it can't happen, but it hasn't been a problem. If I were running a beastly turbo and I was beating on it I'd definitely want a turbo timer and supplemental cooling.
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Jul 20, 2010 01:03
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From what I've read about the 1.8t and 2.0t they have some sort of evaporative cooling for the turbo so that you don't have to let it idle. My dad's 1.8t made it almost 250k miles and he never idled it before shutoff. I've been told that unless you are doing 4th gear pulls into your garage then shutting it off, there's nothing to worry about. The thing to remember is that turbos are pretty drat common on cars these days, so they have to be built for the average moron to not destroy them.
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Jul 20, 2010 17:58
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veedubfreak posted:From what I've read about the 1.8t and 2.0t they have some sort of evaporative cooling for the turbo so that you don't have to let it idle. My dad's 1.8t made it almost 250k miles and he never idled it before shutoff. I've been told that unless you are doing 4th gear pulls into your garage then shutting it off, there's nothing to worry about. You STILL need to let it idle for lubrication purposes, at LEAST for a little bit to let the turbo spin down and lubricate before shutting down. We JUST had to replace a turbo on a truck because people don't let it idle down before shutting down. That thing spins so fast that if you don't let the bearings lube up before shut down you will lose that turbo eventually. Granted, turbos are much more moron proof than they used to be, none the less erring on the side of caution is better than having to replace a turbo that you did not have to replace
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Jul 21, 2010 03:02
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I don't have my manual handy but I'm pretty sure you don't need to let it idle. It's like warming up the engine, you don't need to do it anymore, just get in and drive. Besides, what the gently caress does a truck turbo have to do with a 2.0t
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Jul 21, 2010 07:15
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CommieGIR posted:on a truck these little oil-cooled turbos are tiiiny compared to anything you might see in a truck!
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Jul 21, 2010 13:02
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primitive posted:these little oil-cooled turbos are tiiiny compared to anything you might see in a truck! I'm pretty much not spooling the turbo for the last mile before i park anyway as i'm doing like 20mph in the neighborhood. But like i said, my dad used to drive 75+ miles each way to and from work at 80+ and never idled his and it was still going strong at 240k miles when he sold the car, so there is some sort of system in place to keep the turbo oiled and cooled after the car is turned off.
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Jul 21, 2010 15:11
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veedubfreak posted:I'm pretty much not spooling the turbo for the last mile before i park anyway as i'm doing like 20mph in the neighborhood. But like i said, my dad used to drive 75+ miles each way to and from work at 80+ and never idled his and it was still going strong at 240k miles when he sold the car, so there is some sort of system in place to keep the turbo oiled and cooled after the car is turned off. Thinking about it, it could just be a function of size. A bigger turbo would have more problems caused by differential contraction than a smaller one.
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Jul 21, 2010 15:25
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BonzoESC posted:Thinking about it, it could just be a function of size. A bigger turbo would have more problems caused by differential contraction than a smaller one. Ya, the k03, k03s, and even k04 used on the Audis are really tiny turbos compared to what a diesel uses.
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Jul 21, 2010 18:40
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I've never replaced a turbo for anything related to coking or insufficient cooling. Excessive shaft end-play? Certainly. None of our turbo owners (diesel or gas) ever let their engines run at idle before shutting them down - for the most part because it never occurs to them and it's not mentioned in the owners manual. There's literally no reason to do it on a stock turbo'd VW/Audi anyway - they just don't require it.
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Jul 21, 2010 23:02
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my1999gsr posted:I've never replaced a turbo for anything related to coking or insufficient cooling. Excessive shaft end-play? Certainly. None of our turbo owners (diesel or gas) ever let their engines run at idle before shutting them down - for the most part because it never occurs to them and it's not mentioned in the owners manual. There's literally no reason to do it on a stock turbo'd VW/Audi anyway - they just don't require it. My bad then, maybe I'm just too used to working with trucks 
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Jul 21, 2010 23:29
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Is 3M silicone lube the thing to use for lubricating door and window seals? I took the car to a wash over the weekend, and apparently they managed to do something to dry the seals so much that they started to make a ton of noise every time there was any flex in the doors (so any time I went over a bump or took a corner). They made a weird rubbery noise that sounded a bit like popcorn popping (I guess it really was dry window molding rubbing against body./windows). I went to the dealer because I had no idea what was wrong, and eventually they figured it out and lubed the seals, so weird door noises are mostly gone. Dealer also recommended 3M dry lubricant, so that's what I got. It's safe for paint and stuff, right? Can't find a whole lot about it on their site.
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Jul 22, 2010 01:44
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Autism Sundae posted:Is 3M silicone lube the thing to use for lubricating door and window seals? I took the car to a wash over the weekend, and apparently they managed to do something to dry the seals so much that they started to make a ton of noise every time there was any flex in the doors (so any time I went over a bump or took a corner). They made a weird rubbery noise that sounded a bit like popcorn popping (I guess it really was dry window molding rubbing against body./windows). Silicone lube is really good for the seals - I use it all the time. Try not to get it on your paint though. It won't damage the paint but once silicone gets on a painted surface it's horrific to totally remove. That won't matter until you need a paint touch-up in that area - our body work guys bitch about it constantly.
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Jul 22, 2010 01:57
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CommieGIR posted:My bad then, maybe I'm just too used to working with trucks No bad at all! You're totally right about big turbo diesels. I'm a little more used to imports with big aftermarket turbo kits and they NEED timers and after-run setups to prevent damage too.
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Jul 22, 2010 02:01
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I only got some grease on the painted areas around the door on the inside anyway, doesn't matter much. Any suggestions for where to spray the lube to eliminate the rest of the rubber noises? There's still some weird stuff going on with the left door, right door got fixed by dealer so maybe knew something I don't Edit: yeah left door now does these weird rubbery flex-creaks when going over bumps and such (wasn't happening ever before). Weird poo poo... Advice, goons? Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 02:24
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my1999gsr posted:No bad at all! You're totally right about big turbo diesels. I'm a little more used to imports with big aftermarket turbo kits and they NEED timers and after-run setups to prevent damage too. Yes, I am used to working on aftermarket turbos on old 1.5l and 1.6l VW NAs we turned into TDs. Also, the turbo on my 1972 Willys M35A2 is always spooled even at idle, so the biggest issue is you have to make sure to let it idle down before shutting it off
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Jul 22, 2010 04:18
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On Autism Sundae's topic of GTI door seals, are you familiar with any issues of whistling door deals on the 2010s? My car, which is a 2-door, definitely has noticeable wind noise and whistling coming from the gap between the driver's door and the B-pillar at speeds of about 60 mph and above. I've found a number of other people on other VW forums mentioning the same problem and saying it was a pretty simple fix, but I haven't been able to convince my dealer the problem exists. Are you aware of any service bulletins or anything like that that I could reference when asking them to look at the problem again in September?
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Jul 22, 2010 13:10
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I don't know about service bulletins, but I've had the same problem with wind noise at about 60-65 mph and above. Went to the dealer and they fixed door alignment, noise went away (not completely gone, but it's now normal wind noise from the front of the car and not whistling right next to my ear). Take it to another dealer.
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Jul 22, 2010 15:34
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Have the same issue on my 2010 GTI 2 door, going to mention it to them with I get it serviced. Hopefully they don't bitch about it since it's obviously a known issue.
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Jul 22, 2010 22:03
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Antigen v2.0 posted:Have the same issue on my 2010 GTI 2 door, going to mention it to them with I get it serviced. Hopefully they don't bitch about it since it's obviously a known issue. I haven't driven my TDI over 60 too often (also have music blasting?) but should I check this for my 2D TDI since it basically has the same chassy as the GTI?
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Jul 22, 2010 22:24
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The door being misaligned and door rattles are usually related from what I've seen, because when the door is slightly off its intended position you get striker pin rattles and various wind noises and creaks.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:47
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I'm going to be storing my 2008 Rabbit for a little under a year. After getting it scratched sitting on the street, and realizing I hadn't put gas in it in over a month, I decided it's not worth the risk of damage it has parked on the street. Anything I should do to it now?
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Jul 22, 2010 23:51
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Wind noise from the B-pillar area is covered by TSB 2023699 for 2010 Golf/GTI so if anyone else is having the same complaint be sure to mention it to your dealership.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:51
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minivanmegafun posted:I'm going to be storing my 2008 Rabbit for a little under a year. Anything I should do to it now? Make sure you have the radio code and disconnect the battery. When I store my car over the winter I tend to jack up the tire pressure to 8-10 psi more than recommended to help prevent flat spots. Other than that, make sure your coolant is the correct strength (if you're in a climate that can get below freezing while the car is in storage) and beware of mice, rats and other rodents - they can do a terrible amount of damage in a short time - we had an A6 that was an insurance write-off due to damage done by a family of mice while in winter storage.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:55
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Are there any TSBs for any other door stuff (MK6 obviously)? This is seriously the weirdest thing, I lubed all seals and the right door is completely fine now but left door creaks when I go over bumps. edit: or any other general TSBs I guess? Also do I need a hex key for the hatch door's bump stops? I think my screwdriver can't reach down there, looks like a hex screw Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 23:57
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