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Hey fellas, I need some advice: So I'm going to paint this dragon purple, because you don't see purple dragons anymore and it'll go well with my red armored High Elves. But I'm not sure how to go about it. It's easy to just airbrush the Liche Purple on and just start highlighting with lighter shades, but what should I do for the webbing on his wings? Same lighter shade or a different color all together? E: and what color should I do the banner?
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Jul 17, 2010 04:39
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey fellas, I need some advice: Carnal pink membranes with a red wash is my vote!
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Jul 17, 2010 04:43
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I think a vermilion-colored membrane would be nice if you want to keep it warm colored. Either that, or a reddish brown like a terracotta or burnt sienna. If you wanted it cooler, I'd suggest a nice navy blue or possibly indigo. If you really wanted some contrast though? Green. A nice forest green or maybe even jade.
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Jul 17, 2010 04:59
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You gonna airbrush the veins into those membranes? Because that'd be sick, if done well.
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Jul 17, 2010 05:33
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Red gore, washed flesh, shade back to red gore then blood red highlights would work I think. What about the spines? I'm drawing a blank on those too. The metal armor I'm doing gold.
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Jul 17, 2010 05:36
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:How do I keep the static grass on my minis from getting all frosted by the sealant sprays? Will it stay on if I seal the whole thing first, or what? Both of my totally finished stuff looks like a frosty November morning because of this. put the grass on after the models are sealed. another bonus about doing it this way is that your spray can won't blow any bits of grass onto the model and douse them in sealant making them impossible to remove.
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Jul 17, 2010 05:53
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Reposting because they got ignored in favour of varnish chat Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Jul 17, 2010 17:05
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'Anus' the marine definitely should not have been ignored. Cool poo poo man.
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Jul 17, 2010 17:07
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Fyrbrand posted:'Anus' the marine definitely should not have been ignored. Cool poo poo man. Knew I should have made the J more prominent 
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Jul 17, 2010 17:55
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I like how the article on how to paint river trolls mentions using the Citadel Spray Gun that they don't support anymore.
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Jul 17, 2010 18:02
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Everyone knew that spray gun was poo poo the moment it was announced, but they couldn't talk about spray painting tips without acknowledging the the existence of a non GW product. So they farted out this pos
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Jul 17, 2010 18:13
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So for this months oath I've been working on some sternguard. I'm pretty happy with how they have come out this far but they need some extra touch up, any sugestions for improvements them would be great.    *edit* I changed the yellow from what I was using since after a few coats occasionally I would get more of a mac and cheese yellow, think its a huge improvement.
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Jul 18, 2010 02:26
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Speaking of spraying i just got an iwata airbrush. What do most people use for thinning paint for this thing?
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Jul 18, 2010 03:38
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Ive had pretty good luck with windex. Straight water seems to work on some colors, but others gum up the airbrush pretty fast. Typically its the more opaque colors that I have to thin with windex
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Jul 18, 2010 03:40
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive had pretty good luck with windex. Straight water seems to work on some colors, but others gum up the airbrush pretty fast. Typically its the more opaque colors that I have to thin with windex What ratio do you use for vallejo game color? Also why don't you stock vallejo model air dammit!?
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Jul 18, 2010 04:07
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None of my distribs carry it, because they are bitches. I havent sprayed game color, but its already pretty thin, Id try 2:1 or 3:1 paint:thinner
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Jul 18, 2010 04:10
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I'll try 1:1 first cause I've already clogged it once using game color (maybe I'm just doing something wrong)
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Jul 18, 2010 04:13
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Its pretty easy to clog up, I need to stop being a lazy bastard and premix my paints, as opposed to just dumping them in teh gravity feed and mixing them by eye with a brush and thinner
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Jul 18, 2010 04:16
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PaintVagrant posted:Its pretty easy to clog up, I need to stop being a lazy bastard and premix my paints, as opposed to just dumping them in teh gravity feed and mixing them by eye with a brush and thinner Not to take food out of PV's mouth, but Hawkeye's Hobbies makes a whole slew of airbrush ready metallic paints. I have the aluminum paint, and it is sex in a bottle (For GW, I think it would be chainmail with a bit of mithril in it, as far as shade goes).
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Jul 18, 2010 05:02
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I like how the article on how to paint river trolls mentions using the Citadel Spray Gun that they don't support anymore.
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Jul 18, 2010 13:27
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Arquinsiel posted:They don't? On wednesday last week they still had cans of air in my local. Maybe it's a US thing? The spray gun and air are both still available on the UK site.
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Jul 18, 2010 15:47
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I don't know if he ever accomplished it, but a while ago when it was first introduced the black shirt here was looking for a compressor adapter for the GW spray gun.
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Jul 18, 2010 15:51
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They're a standard fitting so it's not all that unlikely that he found one.
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Jul 18, 2010 16:17
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On the other hand, he is a black shirt, so he might not be that smart 
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Jul 18, 2010 16:31
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cross-posting all over the shop in case anyone in this thread misses it over in the main 40k thread: Right bitches, I just can't keep up with this thread, another 800 something posts since I last posted, no time to go through them. Anyway.. I offered a while back to scan a stack of old modelling workshop articles that I'd tore out and kept from age old copies of white dwarf (the kind of article they don't bother with any more because they're cunts), a few people sounded interested in seeing scans so, a bit late, here they are:  OLD MODELLING WORKSHOP ARTICLES, WOO WOO click here to download, me pretties! yarr! The articles are: Islands and Sand Bars for Man O'War Buildings Take Cover! Ruined Buildings Hills and Woods Ork Buildings go! read! CREATE! or.. you know.. you could just go buy terrain made by Games Workshop™ you corporate sell-out whore  for the record, this was a pain in the arse with a flatbed scanner, reaching down every 10 seconds to flick the next page.. I need me one of them fandangled scanners with a document feed on them. edit: just thought, this might be classed as files.. if there's a mod watching and it falls under that definition, I'll cheerfully remove. Though the articles in question are in some instances, 19 years old and long out of print enri fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 21:53
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enri posted:really cool scanned old stuff Those articles are awesome; I remember reading similar stuff in WD as a kid. Looking at these makes me nostalgic. Also, check out the pics of the authors at the ends of some of the articles. Adrian Wild. 
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Jul 18, 2010 22:06
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Oh hey, what's the size difference between GW pots and those Vallejo dropper bottles? Like, footprint size, height difference, volume, etc. Helpful pictures would be bestest. VVV Do they hold the same volume? Can I dump an entire pot of Citadel into an empty Vallejo bottle, or will I have extra left over? Blade_of_tyshalle fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jul 18, 2010 |
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Jul 18, 2010 22:59
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A vgc/vmc dropper fits inside the circular area on top of a GW pot. Its about 1.5 times the height.
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Jul 18, 2010 23:06
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enri posted:cross-posting all over the shop in case anyone in this thread misses it over in the main 40k thread:
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Jul 18, 2010 23:29
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Oh hey, what's the size difference between GW pots and those Vallejo dropper bottles? Like, footprint size, height difference, volume, etc. Helpful pictures would be bestest. Vallejo bottles hold 17 ml of paint. Which are usually 2.50 to 3 dollars GW paint pots hold 12 ml. Which are usually 3.50 to 4 dollars. Go figure. So to answer your question, yes you can dump an entire pot of citadel paint into an eye dropper bottle and still have room.
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Jul 19, 2010 02:08
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Awesome. I know what I'm doing with my pogey when it shows up! 
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Jul 19, 2010 02:19
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used a 1:1 ratio of windex/paint for my airbrush, worked like gangbusters
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Jul 19, 2010 03:08
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I'm brand new to this and I'm starting a lizardmen army and looking on the GW sites guide to painting Lizardmen they start with a "base coat" of hawk turquoise, and in the first picture it shows a saurus covered in that color (most likely from a spray gun). It also says it had a chaos black "undercoat". My question is this: could i just undercoat the model in hawk turquoise and still get the same effect? I don't see what undercoating with black is going to do if I'm basically going to spray the model down in hawk turquoise right afterward. Wouldn't a coat of black and coat of turquoise before I even start painting layers, highlights, and other details cause me to lose some of the fine detail on the model? I'm probably wrong, but could someone with experience confirm that it's a good idea to include the black undercoat before the turquoise base and that it's not GW trying to sell me their 15 dollar black undercoat spray can?
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Jul 19, 2010 03:50
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Undercoats keep the paint on the model and can add some shading/makes it easier to hide mistakes when painting.
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Jul 19, 2010 04:00
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Each layer of paint that you put on the model should be thin enough that the previous coat affects the brightness/darkness of the fresh layer. So, a black undercoat followed by a green layer would look different than a white undercoat followed by a green layer. Keeping this in mind, it's easy to start producing simple shadow effects when combined with lighter-colored highlights in the higher regions.
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Jul 19, 2010 04:07
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if you are buying hundreds of dollars worth of models, cutting corners on something as cheap and helpful as primer seems like a bad move.
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Jul 19, 2010 04:22
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 This is my pretty much finished Space Wolves Termie. This is my first warham ever and I'd like to think it came out ok. Still need to clean up some the foot areas, but its a tight space. Boltgun metal + Devlan Mud wash is pretty good for what I need it to do. P.S. I promise its not all yellow light that. My camera and house lighting sucks. EDIT: NOW WITH HIGHLIGHTS ON THE NON-LEG BITS AND IN OFFICE LIGHTING ^_^  Click here for the full 600x564 image. slightpirate fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 19, 2010 |
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Jul 19, 2010 06:26
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slightpirate posted:This is my pretty much finished Space Wolves Termie. This is my first warham ever and I'd like to think it came out ok. Still need to clean up some the foot areas, but its a tight space. Your paints a bit thick getting to the shoulder pad by the looks of it and there is some minor touching up that can be done around the eyes and crux. Otherwise it is a really cool effort for your first ham. You've tried out washing and getting some weathering on there, the claws look a bit grizzled and you've highlighted the armour in places by the looks of it. I would just clean up the bits I said by using some blue, then black around the eyes (they will really stand out if you can get a thin black line in the recesses) and the crux will be easy to outline with blue as well. You could even go over the crux with bone on the raised areas, the brown will make it look deep and realistic if it is still showing in the gaps. I wouldn't look at this as finished since with a few minor touches and an hour you could have this mini looking fly as hell! Nice work dude.
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Jul 19, 2010 06:36
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This is pretty good for a first model. Much better than my first models. It looks like you've done edge highlighting on the lower legs and some other parts, but not the rest of the armour. Put edge highlights on the rest of the armour, and maybe some strong highlights on the wolf tail thingies. Then base it and post more pics. You might also want to look at doing some post processing with your photos. Picasa is free and easy to use; other people swear by Gimp, etc. e: I should see if I still have my first models.
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Jul 19, 2010 08:07
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Thanks for the encouragement! I'll see what I can do tonight to clean up some of the lines and whatnot. Then I'll try to get some pictures in natural lighting instead of this yellow hue lamp so you guys can really see whats going on. iPhone 4's camera is nice, but it really likes to pick up yellow. The shoulder pad was really my only complaint as it was primed black and I tried doing yellow on it.. got too thick before I knew what was up. Is there a good yellow foundation out there? I used 'vomit brown' and then tried to put 'sunburst yellow' over that.
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Jul 19, 2010 13:19
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