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My NA has about 16K miles and the shifting is very tight and precise, as nice as any I've ever felt. It's logical that a Miata with 100K could benefit from replacing the parts which help hold the shifter in place though nothing is guaranteed. Here's the link with part #s and some good before/after results later in the thread and other discussion: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=329664
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Jul 20, 2010 15:56
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I need to do this before I replace my motor mounts. However the fact that my exhaust almost broke in two right after the cat makes me think they are shot as well.
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Jul 20, 2010 16:02
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omgitstheinternet posted:Finally did my 100 mile commute in the miata today for the first time, really the first time I've driven the car outside of the bronx to brooklyn when I picked it up. Here are some weird things I noticed. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 16:10
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Recently my '95 has been making a faint but audible squeaking/squealing noise when I'm on the accelerator near or at WOT and the engine gets up around 5000-7000 RPM. It's completely independent of the gear I'm in or the speed I'm going. It's the same sound whether I'm at 6000 RPM in first or 6000 RPM in fourth. It comes on pretty quick right after surpassing ~5000 RPM, and goes away immediately if I get off the gas or shift gears. The car doesn't feel any different or any slower, and there's no vibration/shuddering/shaking or anything like that. It kind of sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car, but it's hard to pinpoint given the conditions that it occurs in. It almost sounds like brake squealing. I know that my brakes are due for a full refresh, but I'm not confident that that is the issue unless things are in need of some serious adjustment (which I'll do soon when I do pads/rotors/lines/fluids). Any ideas on what it might be? I really hope it's not a problem with the differential. 
Guinness fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 20:30
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Guinness posted:Any ideas on what it might be? I really hope it's not a problem with the differential. It shouldn't be. Otherwise it would be gear/speed specific. Not rev specific regardless of gear. Could it be a vacuum leak?
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Jul 20, 2010 22:15
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Wouldn't you hear a vacuum leak all the time though? My 95M makes the same high rpm squeal and I have been at a total loss as to what it could possibly be.
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Jul 20, 2010 22:40
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Wouldn't you hear a vacuum leak all the time though? Slipping belt. Water pump or power steering. Check your tensions and pulley resistance.
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Jul 20, 2010 23:05
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Could it be something belt related? Maybe it can't "keep up" at high rpms? e:fb.
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Jul 20, 2010 23:07
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Granite Octopus posted:Could it be something belt related? Maybe it can't "keep up" at high rpms? That was one of my thoughts. I said it kind of sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car, but considering it's a convertible with almost no sound-deadening and going WOT, that could be totally deceiving. Next time I'm out for a drive I'll try to pay extra special close attention to where it's coming from. I can't test at a stand-still since if I rev it to the limiter in neutral it doesn't put any real load on the drivetrain and doesn't make the sound - however that definitely does not rule out slipping belts under high load. I will try to investigate further. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jul 20, 2010 |
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Jul 20, 2010 23:19
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Happy (Belated) 20th Miata. http://www.autoweek.com/article/20100719/CARNEWS/100719872
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Jul 21, 2010 02:48
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Guinness posted:That was one of my thoughts. I said it kind of sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car, but considering it's a convertible with almost no sound-deadening and going WOT, that could be totally deceiving. Next time I'm out for a drive I'll try to pay extra special close attention to where it's coming from. I can't test at a stand-still since if I rev it to the limiter in neutral it doesn't put any real load on the drivetrain and doesn't make the sound - however that definitely does not rule out slipping belts under high load. I will try to investigate further. YOu could try simulating it at low speed by putting the air con on high, moving at very low speed and turning lock to lock (putting strain on the ac compressor and power steering system). Load up the electrical system as well by turning on the blower, high-beams, defroster etc
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Jul 21, 2010 05:48
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I went to change my belts today(unrelated to the squeal noise mentioned above, my ac belt chirps whenever the ac cycles), and my tensioner things just sort of refuse to move. I changed the a/c belt with a hammer because I had to get it done before I went insane. Is there another bolt holding the power steering pump/alternator in place other than the two tensioner bolts and the two bolts that hold them in place once the tension is set?
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Jul 21, 2010 06:23
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Granite Octopus posted:YOu could try simulating it at low speed by putting the air con on high, moving at very low speed and turning lock to lock (putting strain on the ac compressor and power steering system). Load up the electrical system as well by turning on the blower, high-beams, defroster etc Nah, if the Alt was putting up that much resistance he'd hear... wait a minute, the squealing could be the alternator itself at high speed. I know that when mine is charging the battery after not moving the car it makes a funky squealing noise for a bit. Granted, I have an E30 and not a Miata, but alternators are mostly the same. It might not be a belt at all! GO makes some good points, try it out.
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Jul 21, 2010 06:24
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Could the bearing in the alt be on its way out? I had one go in my OEM Suby alt, it was the loudest underhood squeal I'd ever had. Hopefully I'll be posting a bit about the 90 I picked up in Feb. Up on stands right now for some work & wiring (LC-1).
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Jul 21, 2010 17:39
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omgitstheinternet posted:I've joined the Miata club: It'll help out handling and acceleration immensely if you ditch those boat anchor sportmaxxes. Even if you just switch back to stock daisies it would be an incredible improvement, only downside is having to give up that steamroller contact patch.
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Jul 22, 2010 03:18
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But if he changed wheels he'll lose all his flush-ness. 
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Jul 22, 2010 03:45
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Aceshighxxx posted:It'll help out handling and acceleration immensely if you ditch those boat anchor sportmaxxes. Even if you just switch back to stock daisies it would be an incredible improvement, only downside is having to give up that steamroller contact patch. That said it'll be more "fun" to get some skinnier tires on wheels that fit right so he can throw the end out a bit more.
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Jul 22, 2010 05:40
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destructo posted:I doubt that. I'd imagine he'd be faster on whatever tire he can fit onto those sportfags than a pair of daisies, retarded fitment or not. I don't know man, I had some sportcraps on my old miata for a while and it felt like poo poo compared to anything 12 lbs or less. It gripped like a mofo with the extra rubber, but the acceleration and "tossability" seemed to be significantly diminished. e: granted this was on a stock 1.6 so maybe that had something to do with it too... Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 06:02
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I could tell a huge difference going from my heavy winter steelies to my light Daisys. It really woke the car up. I didn't have good tires really, so that wasn't the difference.
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Jul 22, 2010 13:32
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When Iw as shopping for my miata I test drove quite a few, and the ones not on steelies always seemed a little more peppy and fun, so I bought the 95M, with wheels made of hopes and dreams.
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Jul 22, 2010 16:48
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I do love the BBS 15s on my 95M. I can definitely corroborate Tactical Bonnet's experience of Miatas on light alloys vs. steelies/heavy alloys. If you're going to add weight to the car (or any car, really), wheels are one of the last places you should be putting it. And conversely, one of the first places to look to if you're trying to shed weight. A couple pounds lost in the wheels, especially on a Miata, feels like losing a couple dozen pounds in the car.
Guinness fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 17:49
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Just spent 2 hours looking for the OBDII port on my 96. That's two hours of contorting my body backwards to look up underneath the dash. The PO broke off the connector and decided to shove it way up in the back of the center console and be done with it 
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Jul 22, 2010 19:37
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Guinness posted:I do love the BBS 15s on my 95M. I can definitely corroborate Tactical Bonnet's experience of Miatas on light alloys vs. steelies/heavy alloys. If you're going to add weight to the car (or any car, really), wheels are one of the last places you should be putting it. And conversely, one of the first places to look to if you're trying to shed weight. A couple pounds lost in the wheels, especially on a Miata, feels like losing a couple dozen pounds in the car. They're great wheels. Have you ever had to lift one? I almost knocked myself in the face the first time I changed my brakes. Lightest wheel I've ever lifted.
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Jul 23, 2010 00:11
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Yeah they're feathers compared to the supposedly lightweight 17x8s on my old E34. Naturally, 17x8 is a hell of a lot more wheel (and tire) than 15x6.  Plus I mean, come on, BBS basketweaves? No one in their right mind can hate on that. Guinness fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 00:27
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I finally got around to polishing and waxing my car, but now I have little specks of wax all over my soft top. What can I use to get it off that wont gently caress up the wax on the rest of the car.
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Jul 23, 2010 01:30
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On black trim I've used peanut butter. Something about the oil in it cleans it off really well. Just make sure to clean that off after or it'll smell like peanuts.  Not sure about the top though.
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Jul 23, 2010 12:33
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On a 1997 can you re-use the outboard lap belt bosses for a 6 point harness? I know the inboard side you need to drip/backing plate and the same for the sub belts.
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Jul 23, 2010 22:55
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DreamOn13 posted:On black trim I've used peanut butter. Something about the oil in it cleans it off really well. Just make sure to clean that off after or it'll smell like peanuts. Use peanut oil instead? I shudder at the thought of globs of PB on my car... 
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Jul 24, 2010 04:53
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Bleh, so another problem just cropped up on my 95M. Today I tried turning on the AC for the first time in a LONG time, seriously like almost a year, and I'm 99% sure the compressor isn't getting engaged when I press the button on the dash. The little blue AC light turns on beneath the button, but it doesn't seem to actually be doing anything. I can't feel/hear the AC compressor sapping engine power like is so patently obvious when it's working. And (duh) there's no change in temperature of the air blowing out the vents. I'm a total noob to AC systems. Is it a seized compressor? Wouldn't it at least try to engage it if it were seized? What things should I look for to diagnose whatever the problem is? And could this somehow be related to the subtle squealing problem I described a few posts back (faint squeal that only happens at 5000+ RPM under hard acceleration, regardless of gear/speed)? Guinness fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 07:11
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Check in the looking glass to see if you have refrigerant first.
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Jul 26, 2010 07:37
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How complex is it to replace the gearbox (manual) and clutch on a 1990 Eunos, for a novice mechanic who's experience is basically limited to oil changes and changing ARB bushes?
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Jul 26, 2010 09:33
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GazChap posted:How complex is it to replace the gearbox (manual) and clutch on a 1990 Eunos, for a novice mechanic who's experience is basically limited to oil changes and changing ARB bushes? as far as miata work goes, its probably around a 7or 8 out of 10 (10 being difficult, 1 being easy). You will most likely need to invest in some 3/8 drive extension bars and a 3/8 drive universal joint to get to the gearbox bolts around the bellhousing. Basic technique is to drain the gearbox oil and unbolt the powerplant frame from the gearbox and diff. unbolt the drive shaft from the diff and slide it out of the back of the gearbox. support the gearbox with a trolley jack. disconnect reverse gear switch, unbolt shifter and remove unbolt bellhousing bolts with jack supporting gearbox pull gearbox off the back of the engine until the input shaft is free form the clutch assembly lower gearbox on jack and remove it from under the car lock engine from rotating unbolt pressure plate from flywheel remove pressure plate and clutch disk unbolt flywheel send flywheel away for machining, replace rear main seal at this point if you wish install machined flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate install gearbox, ppf, driveshaft etc
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Jul 26, 2010 11:22
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Not "if you wish" change the drat seal. I didn't when I did the clutch on my camaro and, of course, about a month later it started leaking. It's also a good idea to put a new clutch and pressure plate/throwout bearing/et cetera while you have it all apart anyway.
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Jul 26, 2010 13:06
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Guinness posted:Bleh, so another problem just cropped up on my 95M. Today I tried turning on the AC for the first time in a LONG time, seriously like almost a year, and I'm 99% sure the compressor isn't getting engaged when I press the button on the dash. The little blue AC light turns on beneath the button, but it doesn't seem to actually be doing anything. I can't feel/hear the AC compressor sapping engine power like is so patently obvious when it's working. And (duh) there's no change in temperature of the air blowing out the vents. I'm not a mechanic but I'd guess the compressor is seized up. Check the fuse though; I don't know if it's on the same circuit as the AC light. E: one other thing and this could be retarded so get a mechanic's opinion first. A friend who is an AC technician once got my home AC compressor running by hitting it with a hammer a few times while it was off. It was only a short term solution but it worked. Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jul 26, 2010 |
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Jul 26, 2010 14:54
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What's a reasonable offer to make for 94 miata(107k miles) no maintenance records except for a replaced radiator? I drove the car, the clutch seemed fine, top is a year old and it's been garaged all it's life. The only thing i found wrong with it is a cracked windshield that's not spreading and it doesn't obstruct vision. Guy wants 3900 for it, I was thinking more like 3200. This is in the midwest.
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Jul 26, 2010 16:38
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Tell him that he has no records and the timing belt and water pump need to be replaced at either 60k or 105k intervals.
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Jul 26, 2010 16:45
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So I've had my 99 for 3 years now, and about 2 months after I got it the CEL turned on. Checked the codes and it was P1135, Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor input low. It was suggested that I change the O2 sensor in the front bank, so I ordered the part for front O2 sensor for Cali emissions cars (which it is) and installed it. It ran fine for about a month, then the CEL came back on. P1135 again, I was pretty annoyed so I just left it for a while. After a few months the car started running pretty rough and I had to get it inspected so I ordered the Bosche part and replaced it. It passed inspection, but about 250 miles later, the CEL came back on. Checked it, P1135. Today I pulled every single fuse just to make sure, they're all intact. The weird thing is, I'm looking at my car and noticing something strange: When you look at the exhaust manifold, you can see the O2 sensor that I replaced in the picture below  I was rechecking my wiring when I noticed a second sensor, very close to the first one, and I'm not sure what it is. Any ideas?  Does anyone know any solution to getting rid of this P1135 code other than buying new O2 sensors every few months? And does anyone have any idea what that sensor is? From what I've read, the second sensor is an O2 sensor as well, but it's not suppose to be there because my car is CA emissions and it has the first O2 sensor right on the exhaust manifold like the first picture? BusinessWallet fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jul 28, 2010 |
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Jul 28, 2010 00:19
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I'm not sure but in my experience there are two of most sensors, one that goes to the ecu and one that controls something mechanical.
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Jul 28, 2010 02:28
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In regular emissions cars there are 2 O2 sensors, one at the header, and one before the muffler. It appears that I have two before the cat, which doesn't make sense.
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Jul 28, 2010 03:10
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 19:49 |
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I'll prefix by saying I don't know NB's that well, but There's some weird pre-cat cat in the header in california cars. Replacing the cali header with the "normal" header is supposed to be a decent power bump. The 2nd o2 sensor that you have there is where normally the pre-cat o2 sensor would be in a NA.
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Jul 28, 2010 08:15
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