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VibrioCholera posted:I just came back from dropping my car off from Anderson Ford in Clinton, IL and they were supposed to do a 5.0 GT build. Still can't get it and it was going to be a magazine car. I'm not too racing car inclined or anything, so this might sound really stupid. Why are you using 116 octane when you've got a low compression ratio of 9.2:1? Again, I come from an old american car history (lincoln continental '68, Jeep Wrangler '90 4.2L) where using 91 octane is common.
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Jul 22, 2010 17:44
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Steiler Drep posted:I'm not too racing car inclined or anything, so this might sound really stupid. Why are you using 116 octane when you've got a low compression ratio of 9.2:1? Again, I come from an old american car history (lincoln continental '68, Jeep Wrangler '90 4.2L) where using 91 octane is common. At 22 psi it probably COULD run on 93, but at 30-whatever psi and 9.2:1, no, no no no no
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Jul 22, 2010 17:47
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Steiler Drep posted:I'm not too racing car inclined or anything, so this might sound really stupid. Why are you using 116 octane when you've got a low compression ratio of 9.2:1? Again, I come from an old american car history (lincoln continental '68, Jeep Wrangler '90 4.2L) where using 91 octane is common.
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Jul 22, 2010 17:55
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What kind of power is that making, 7-800ish hp?
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Jul 22, 2010 18:08
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VibrioCholera posted:MMR aluminum intake (They've sold some, they're ridiculously priced. I'm fairly certain my car is the only one out there right now running with one Very interested in hearing about your results with this. It would be even better if you had some back to back runs with the stock manifold to compare it to. You know, since MMR won't give any information about it other than "IT IS TOTALLY AWESOME TRUST US AND GIVE US YOUR MONEY ON FAITH!" I want to like MMR, I really do. I just don't trust companies who "sponsor" forums, release no information about their products, and get users who dare question their products or post bad experiences with their products banned. It also doesn't help that Mark Lutton, the owner of MMR, was the head guy at X2C, a company that went down in flames for scamming everyone that walked through the door once they built up some goodwill in the community.
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Jul 22, 2010 18:28
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TurboLuvah posted:What kind of power is that making, 7-800ish hp? I'd say at least that. A Vortech on a stock GT500 made something like 720rwhp.
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Jul 22, 2010 19:09
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Method Loser posted:At 22 psi it probably COULD run on 93, but at 30-whatever psi and 9.2:1, no, no no no no 30PSI with a blower?!? drat. Why wouldn't you go with a set of turbos if you had a race car that required that much boost? It seems like it would be more efficient.
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Jul 22, 2010 22:49
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VibrioCholera posted:I just came back from dropping my car off from Anderson Ford in Clinton, IL and they were supposed to do a 5.0 GT build. Still can't get it and it was going to be a magazine car. Jesus Christ.
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Jul 22, 2010 23:59
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quote:I'm not too racing car inclined or anything, so this might sound really stupid. Why are you using 116 octane when you've got a low compression ratio of 9.2:1? Again, I come from an old american car history (lincoln continental '68, Jeep Wrangler '90 4.2L) where using 91 octane is common. It was originally being tuned for 93 octane pump gas. The shop was okay with it that tried to tune it. They suggested maybe going to at least 100 or 110. In order to really push the tune it is a hell of a lot safer running those kind of boost numbers on a high octane. Danny at Anderson Ford explained it pretty well. Basically the problem is detonation. you really don't know if you're going to run into it (probably will) and he said it's a better safe than sorry situation in the long run. It's also a hell of a lot safer for the motor and will allow the car to see higher horsepower numbers in the future if I decide I need more boost. Could it run on 93? Yeah. I bought a full Nitrous Oxide Systems kit but the engine builder said it was probably overkill. quote:What kind of power is that making, 7-800ish hp? quote:Very interested in hearing about your results with this. It would be even better if you had some back to back runs with the stock manifold to compare it to. You know, since MMR won't give any information about it other than "IT IS TOTALLY AWESOME TRUST US AND GIVE US YOUR MONEY ON FAITH!" Yeah, unfortunately it never saw any stock runs. They advertised this as being "OMG SUPER AWESOME FOR FORCED INDUCTION PROVIDING X%" results but never actually posted a number and only saying they saw big improvements (I forgot the exact percentage.) Wasn't going to hurt to try it and was already in over our heads with the build so we bought it when it was 'on sale.' They say it clears the stock hood. It didn't but the entire front end is modified. It rubbed so I had to buy a Cobra R hood and the tubing for the blower still rubs a tiny bit so it has hood pins now. There is also a remote IAC setup but the manifold itself didn't come out of the box for the average bolt-n-go guy. The IAC had to have a bung welded to the elbow off the throttle body. Everyone on MMR forums that have it basically ran out of cash doing their builds or don't have results. I have heard they get really uppity about people criticizing their products. quote:30PSI with a blower?!? drat. Yeah. It really came down to reliability and simplicity. Turbos are more efficient and can put out insane power numbers but they're more complicated in my opinion. ProCharger are pretty drat easy to take care of and don't require additional electronics. Turbos felt like they'd become a problem down the road where the Supercharger is fairly straight forward. It is also is a hell of a lot less tubing all over the place and I don't have to worry about building boost and all sorts of crazy stuff at launch and then worry about cooling down. You guys probably know a hell of a lot more about them than I do. Also, the F1 series ProCharger literally sound like nails on a chalkboard. It's absolutely disgusting sounding. ProChargers have a really distinct sound and when it comes down to it... quote:Jesus Christ. Automotive Insanity. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 01:46
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oRenj9 posted:30PSI with a blower?!? drat. Centrifugals are the closest to turbos anyway, so 
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Jul 23, 2010 05:20
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oRenj9 posted:30PSI with a blower?!? drat. Look at the race series where turbos and superchargers compete against each other, the superchargers tend to dominate. John Urist owns Hellion Power Systems, an aftermarket turbo kit manufacturer. John runs a Procharger on his race car and has won 4 championships in a row in NMRA. Turbos are awesome, but they aren't the be all end all for performance.
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Jul 23, 2010 16:33
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Requested a quote for a GT Premium from AAFES Car Sales today. 3.55, tech and security package, HIDs. $36ish invoice from Ford, if AAFES can get it for 33 or below I'll pull the trigger. One of the guys I'm out here with got a Raptor for $6k under invoice so I think there's a decent chance.
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Jul 23, 2010 16:59
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Pudgygiant posted:Requested a quote for a GT Premium from AAFES Car Sales today. 3.55, tech and security package, HIDs. $36ish invoice from Ford, if AAFES can get it for 33 or below I'll pull the trigger. One of the guys I'm out here with got a Raptor for $6k under invoice so I think there's a decent chance. You might be able to with the AAFES but these cars are selling over invoice all day long around here. I put an offer in on a Red GT premium with an MSRP of ~36.5 and got a "sorry we can't do business" and a hangup. I know it's a low offer but I figured I'd get a counter offer at least. The car is not listed in the dealer's inventory anymore so I'm assuming they sold it to someone else for more than I offered. If you're budget minded wait till after the summer, you'll probably do better.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:02
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Buy a fox body 5.0 for the money you save by waiting for the price gouging to end on the new 5.0, grow a mullet, and then trade it in in style.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:44
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Pudgygiant posted:Requested a quote for a GT Premium from AAFES Car Sales today. 3.55, tech and security package, HIDs. $36ish invoice from Ford, if AAFES can get it for 33 or below I'll pull the trigger. One of the guys I'm out here with got a Raptor for $6k under invoice so I think there's a decent chance. Just as a heads up, I did the same thing. Mine is the GT Premium, performance white with the black over the top stripes, 3.73 ratio, Brembos, and the coupe accessory pack and i'm paying $33,500 on an otherwise $38,000 car. AAFES sucks at most things, but when you're deployed buying a car isn't one of them. Also, the AAFES sales rep can do an additional $500.00 off on top of all the other rebates you currently qualify for. Its a manual punch in for them and they don't normally do it unless they know you're "on the fence" so use it to your advantage.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:53
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kronix posted:You might be able to with the AAFES but these cars are selling over invoice all day long around here. I put an offer in on a Red GT premium with an MSRP of ~36.5 and got a "sorry we can't do business" and a hangup. I know it's a low offer but I figured I'd get a counter offer at least. GT Premium manual, 3.55 rear end, comfort package, security package, HIDs. AAFES quote $32,910. gently caress this is a hard decision. Demokracy posted:Also, the AAFES sales rep can do an additional $500.00 off on top of all the other rebates you currently qualify for. Its a manual punch in for them and they don't normally do it unless they know you're "on the fence" so use it to your advantage. Nice, I didn't know about that. If I switch the 3.55 for 3.73 rear end and hit that $500 off I could have this car for drat near $1000 under MSRP. Pudgygiant fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 18:59
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That's an awesome deal, I'm paying 32,400 for my car but I have the 19 inch wheels instead of the HIDs and the comfort/security packages.
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Jul 23, 2010 20:00
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Two questions 1) I'll be driving in Colorado, lots of mountains and lots of braking. Is there noticeable fade on the stock brakes? If I'm never going to track this, are the Brembos still worth it given the driving I'll be doing? 2) Is the 3.55 rear end decent for highway driving?
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Jul 24, 2010 08:54
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Pudgygiant posted:Two questions 1) You're not going to fade the stock brakes with regular driving. However, I have a feeling Brembos are going to be a sought after option in the resell market. 2) At 70mph in 6th gear you'll be turning 1988 RPM with the manual or 2110 RPM with the automatic. This is based off of the stock 18" tire's 27.3" diameter, 3.55 rear gear, and a 6th gear ratio of .65 for the manual and .69 for the automatic. Tire height and transmission ratios are taken from here, tire size conversion was done here, and gear calculations were done here in the "Transmission Final Gear Ratio Manual Entry" section. With the 3.73s in a manual (can't get them in the automatic from the factory) you'll be turning 2089 RPM in 6th gear. This is why we tell people "don't fear the gear". We're not in 1968 anymore. Transmissions have more than 3 speeds as well as overdrive. Even 4.56 gears will only spin 2554 RPM in 6th at 70mph. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 14:35
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frozenphil posted:1) You're not going to fade the stock brakes with regular driving. However, I have a feeling Brembos are going to be a sought after option in the resell market. Thanks phil, good information and great links to have.
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Jul 24, 2010 15:04
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frozenphil posted:Even 4.56 gears will only spin 2554 RPM in 6th at 70mph. Absolutely true, but how short is first? I get the feeling 4.56 behind a stick would be very hard to launch without absolutely smoking the rears.
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Jul 24, 2010 16:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Absolutely true, but how short is first? I get the feeling 4.56 behind a stick would be very hard to launch without absolutely smoking the rears. You'll get the hang of it eventually.
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Jul 24, 2010 16:40
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So for those of you that did factory orders, how long was it until you took delivery on the car? It's only been 3 days and I'm already getting antsy. Also I'm trying to time the sale of my car now so I don't get left without a car for too long.
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Jul 24, 2010 17:04
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I'm going on leave in September, a couple more weeks next March, and then probably not for good until July or so. If I order this and have it delivered in September other than the horses getting anxious will there be any adverse effects of it sitting around for a few months?
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Jul 24, 2010 18:07
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Pudgygiant posted:I'm going on leave in September, a couple more weeks next March, and then probably not for good until July or so. If I order this and have it delivered in September other than the horses getting anxious will there be any adverse effects of it sitting around for a few months? If you still have awhile in country I'd seriously consider waiting on placing your order until you're about 2 months out. It will give the car time to "cool down" if you will and the price will drop. I know AAFES does the price match thing to "lock in your price" but honestly with that much time the only way the price is going is down. not to mention it will save you the hassle of having to track the price changes yourself (which you will have to do). Save up the money you would have spend now and in the payments (if any) you planned on making in country and drop it as one big lump sum once you're just about done with your deployment. It will lower your financing and everything. Unless you absolutely have to have it for leave.
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Jul 24, 2010 18:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Absolutely true, but how short is first? I get the feeling 4.56 behind a stick would be very hard to launch without absolutely smoking the rears. I've(against my advice, but the customer is always right) installed '56's in several mod Mustangs, and first gear just ends up completely useless - you end up shifting at like 11mph. I also have a very strong suspicion that if you took the same car with 3.73's, it would be faster in the quarter anyway. Of course, if you're bolting 30"+ slicks up in the back and/or have an enormous cam(or cams, in the case of mod motors  ), then ultra-low gears are viable, but most people are just over-gearing because they listen to idiots who are stuck in 1971 when people ran close-ratio Toploaders and Muncies with 2.20 First gear ratios.
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Jul 24, 2010 18:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Absolutely true, but how short is first? I get the feeling 4.56 behind a stick would be very hard to launch without absolutely smoking the rears. 3.66 first gear for the manual cars, 4.17 for the automatic.  I didn't say it was a good idea, just that you can do it and not have the engine sitting at 5k RPMs on the highway.JnnyThndrs posted:I've(against my advice, but the customer is always right) installed '56's in several mod Mustangs, and first gear just ends up completely useless - you end up shifting at like 11mph. I also have a very strong suspicion that if you took the same car with 3.73's, it would be faster in the quarter anyway. Really depends on the setup and what you're able to live with. Bob Cosby used 4.88s in his '99 Cobra. He daily drove that car and raced it in NMRA Factory Stock where he won a championship in 2004. The DOHC engines really wake up once you start spinning over 7k RPM. Brandon Alsept shifted his old NMRA Pure Street 4v at 11,800 RPM. That is not a typo. His new 2v "only" gets shifted at 9k RPM. He said his new cams are bigger than the MHS Stage 5 NA cams which spec at 250°/248° @ 0.050", 0.540" lift. Stock are 200°/209° @ 0.050", 0.505" lift. If you know cams then you know how insane of a jump that is. frozenphil fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jul 24, 2010 |
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Jul 24, 2010 19:09
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frozenphil posted:MHS Stage 5 NA cams which spec at 250°/248° @ 0.050", 0.540" lift. drat, that's a lot of duration - fair amount of lift too. When I say "4.56's are too much", I'm referring to the 99% of cars out there that are using stock cams/heads, of course - once you get into really big cams, things change pretty dramatically. I used to run 4.62's in my bridgeported rotary, and that was with relatively short tires(~26"). Probably could have even done a bit better with '88's :P
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Jul 24, 2010 22:22
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For most people, 3.73's or 3.90's are more than enough for what they have. It just seems most people want "them big gears to make my car stand up when I stomp on the gas pedal".
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Jul 24, 2010 22:32
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JnnyThndrs posted:When I say "4.56's are too much", I'm referring to the 99% of cars out there that are using stock cams/heads, of course - once you get into really big cams, things change pretty dramatically. Pure Street and Factory Stock (naturally aspirated classes) both have to run stock heads, stock intakes, and stock plenums. Woe be unto you if tech finds grind marks or a shiny surface inside anything. Basically all they can do to the engine is a stock overbore (smidge over .020" as class max for the 4.6L is 289ci), cams, and Pure street can use aftermarket exhaust manifolds. With that in mind, the 350rwhp they make is loving impressive because it is almost solely RPM and tuning. But yeah, 3.73s are pretty much perfect for the 2011 GT as you'll be crossing the stripe in 4th gear right at redline with a 28" tire. If you can shift your rear end off you might as well just skip 4.10s so you can use all of 5th and head straight to at least 4.56s. Devyl posted:For most people, 3.73's or 3.90's are more than enough for what they have. It just seems most people want "them big gears to make my car stand up when I stomp on the gas pedal". 4.10s are pretty much the default standard for a 2v or 3v with an automatic unless you're running a turbo. There's just no good reason to go lower if plan on drag racing the car. RPM is your friend with a modular engine and the gear just helps you get to your friend faster.
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Jul 24, 2010 23:07
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frozenphil posted:RPM is your friend with a modular engine and the gear just helps you get to your friend faster. My friend's name is speed 
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Jul 25, 2010 05:54
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Steeda's Tri-Ax shifter is just about ready for you manual 2011 owners. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uEgBr-9RaM
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Jul 25, 2010 05:58
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Discovered a couple things about the 2011 Mustang the last 24 hours... Drove down to Shelter Island (San Diego) last night and the key fob was completely dead. Couldn't lock, unlock, pop the trunk. After dinner and the show, fob was still dead. Drove back home and tested it in my garage and all was fine. It seems as if some interference was tripping it up and it disabled itself. Could have been the naval base right across the harbor maybe. This morning, I discovered that you don't have to hold the key on start for it to start. Just click it and let it go and it'll finish cranking automatically. It's also way too quiet. Going to need to get an exhaust soon. I'm thinking the Bassani cat back and maybe a X pipe.
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Jul 25, 2010 06:07
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frozenphil posted:1) You're not going to fade the stock brakes with regular driving. However, I have a feeling Brembos are going to be a sought after option in the resell market. Yay math! At what RPM does fuel economy go from "i'm a V8, but an efficient one" to "MORE FUEL NOM NOM!". My current vehicle has that cut off around 1800 RPM. 65 MPH = 20 MPG. 70 MPH = 17 MPG.
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Jul 25, 2010 16:36
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Skyssx posted:Yay math! If you're asking about gear ratio and fuel economy it is almost a useless point. You can put 4.56 in the car and barely see a drop off. I can't find the thread over on Modded Mustangs forums right now (it's stickied in one of the forums) but basically it came down to the same decrease you get using air conditioning. edit: Stolen from "The Busher" over at Modded Mustangs using a stock '04 GT: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/modular-mustangs/30116-3-27-vs-3-73-vs-4-10-took-couple-hrs-2-complete-enjoy.html code:Before going insane mode on the car I had a 4.10 gear on my '96 Cobra. It could have used a 4.56 if I had to do it again. First gear wasn't that horrible. You shift out of it quickly no matter what. What's the difference if you're out at 15mph or 20mph? You won't be in first gear unless you're doing sub-10mph anyways. (That or being awesome and winding it to 5,000RPM with your exhaust  )
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 18:46
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OK, so AAFES will lower the MSRP or add any additional rebates, but if the rebates I'm getting now disappear the price won't go up. I decided to go ahead and buy it, delivery date March 15th, 2011. Final price $35,738 for a GT Premium with the California Special pkg, Comfort pkg, glass roof, 3.55 rear end, Grabber Blue with charcoal seats. I'm excited this beast will be waiting for me when I get home.
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Jul 25, 2010 20:06
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Huggable Bear King posted:I test drove a 2008 Bullitt and it was easily the coolest car I've ever driven. I know it's just a dressed up(down?) GT but the gimmick works. I really wish I had been able to buy it but i really couldn't afford a new car at the time. I'll probably end up picking one up on the used market for way too much money in a few years...or just wait until ford makes another one Verch101, guy with the '49 Ford F-1 project, has one... and it has completely changed my perception of Mustangs. If you have any questions about 'em I'll have him look on here. I absolutely love his car, but it doesn't stop five-oh envy for the 2011's from either of us, as quite a few bits and pieces from the Bullitt made it onto the 2010 I think (obviously not the motor).  Click here for the full 1536x864 image. On a side note, his previous car was a New Edge '99 V6, auto, though. e: it is a dressed up GT, not much though, but very nicely done. Intake/exhaust/suspension/tune, and largest change probably being a 3.73 rear gear. But overall it's wonderfully sleek and stealth package, no front fog lights like the gt, nor pony badge on the grill as that press photo shows, only ponies on the car are on the rims, and one more on the sun visor tint inside. Wanderer89 fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jul 25, 2010 |
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Jul 25, 2010 22:55
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I still miss that thing
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The Bullitt is actually very interesting from a technical standpoint. It has the same differential as the GT500 (this diff is used in racing on one of the FR500 cars, can't remember if it's the C or S) and all the other stuff that made it into the 2010 GT. Whenever Ford decides to sell the 5.0 as a crate motor I am stuffing one under my hood.
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Jul 26, 2010 00:48
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Killbot posted:Whenever Ford decides to sell the 5.0 as a crate motor I am stuffing one under my hood. The package will be available soon, probably this fall. It comes with the complete engine assembly with all the front end accessories as well as the engine harness. Should run around $8k if the previous offerings are any indication.
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Jul 26, 2010 02:01
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frozenphil posted:The package will be available soon, probably this fall. It comes with the complete engine assembly with all the front end accessories as well as the engine harness. Does the harness include a 2011 ECU?
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