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Skarsnik posted:chaos black, it'll work just fine, seriously Chenghiz posted:Paint is not primer. Primer is specifically designed to have more tooth and to stick to the model underneath. It worked for us back in the old days you pesky youth 
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Jul 23, 2010 09:07
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Back in my day, we didn't have these fancy dancy paints you spoiled whippersnappers have nowadays. We used to base our lead models with bleached bone and we liked it, we loved it, we got good results anyway. Now get off my lawn! *wheeeeeeeze*
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Jul 23, 2010 09:50
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Chenghiz posted:Paint is not primer. Primer is specifically designed to have more tooth and to stick to the model underneath. Yes, but for small bits like in this case and touching up missed areas from the spray it will work just fine. And as others have said, it worked when I was young
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Jul 23, 2010 10:05
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TastyAvocado posted:I'm working on two infinity forces, and pretty happy with the results, although I'm still bad at knowing where exactly highlights should go. My natural inclination is to want to go up to the very brightest colour on every edge although obviously that's wrong. I'm just not sure how to tell exactly which part of surfaces and which edges are the ones that should get the lightest colours, very confusing. Anyway here's a couple of the models I've done, I'm sorry the pictures are so bad, the colours are all off. I think youre selling yourself short, I think the highlights look very well placed overall. These are awesome and you should post them in the inf thread
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Jul 23, 2010 13:05
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Skarsnik posted:Yes, but for small bits like in this case and touching up missed areas from the spray it will work just fine. I agree, its just that I periodically see people talking about priming with paint and I feel compelled to correct them. Carry on!
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Jul 23, 2010 13:36
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Chenghiz posted:I agree, its just that I periodically see people talking about priming with paint and I feel compelled to correct them. Carry on!
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Jul 23, 2010 13:54
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Pretty sure he is right
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Jul 23, 2010 14:03
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PaintVagrant posted:Pretty sure he is right Pretty sure he is right too Ain't no way I'd undercoat an entire model by brush, even if my 1989 citadel painting guide says otherwise   We are talking about different situations here, so we cool
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Jul 23, 2010 14:24
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Haha, wow. Go GW.
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Jul 23, 2010 14:29
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the new WH:TGoFB rule book tells you to use chaos black if you run out of primer. At first I was like "oh, ok" because they show techniques like highlighting/blending for the first time ever in a rule book and I thought they knew their poo poo for once, but then I said "hey, wait a minute!" because i remembered what a waste of $3.70/12ml paint that is. for touch ups, go nuts.
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Jul 23, 2010 14:40
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Its basically: "hay you just bought our starter kit that doesnt come with primer, so use the paint that is included kthx"
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Jul 23, 2010 15:10
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Oddly enough I find that undercoating by brush results in less of the primer rubbing off, but that may be because I'm well practiced at brush undercoats and not so much with spray. For the best part of my painting days, the times when I was putting in two or three hours a night telling myself "next year, Golden Daemon!" it was all brush undercoats. Most of my best work was done on brush undercoats, although I've gotten lazy since then and my skills have turned to mud.
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Jul 23, 2010 15:40
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Before I discovered spray primer, I used to undercoat Gundams by hand. That's a gruelling task if ever there was one.
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Jul 23, 2010 16:35
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Is there a way to dip miniatures without them getting that stereotypical pooly splotchy look on the highlights/flat surfaces? I got far too many goblins to paint by hand. I was thinking of dipping them to a game-able standard and then going back and highlighting them once they are all done.
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Jul 23, 2010 17:27
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You would probably get a finish that is just as good, if not better, by taking a big brush and just glomping GW wash on. Certainly less faffing about with shaking models.
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Jul 23, 2010 17:29
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You should check out overthefalls' models in the oath thread, he/she paints a loving ton of awesome goblins per month using washes. Really washes or dips are your only options when paintng a horde army, unless you dont mind waiting 5 years to finish it.
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Jul 23, 2010 17:38
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Does anyone have any good recipes for painting the colors turquoise and orange? e: Turquoise like the gemstone Two Headed Calf fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 17:39
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Two Headed Calf posted:Does anyone have any good recipes for painting the colors turquoise and orange? Orange: Citadel Foundation Macharius Solar Orange start there and go crazy add some bleached bone for highlights, bit of brown for shading perhaps?there's not enough orange armies out there :/ I'm going to slap some of those cf orange on a spare marine I've got knocking around and see what happens. edit: for the record, macharius solar orange doesn't cover black as well as the other foundation paints
enri fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jul 23, 2010 |
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Jul 23, 2010 17:44
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enri posted:Orange: Citadel Foundation Macharius Solar Orange I was thinking of starting Red Brown->Blazing Orange->Fiery Orange->Bright Yellow Highlight or something like that. what kind of a scrub primes black?
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Jul 23, 2010 18:07
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enri posted:edit: for the record, macharius solar orange doesn't cover black as well as the other foundation paints It goes on well over mechrite red... 
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Jul 23, 2010 18:09
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white gesso + black gesso = gray gesso, right? how dark/light should the mix be to get in on this sweet gray primer fad? also, Battlefoam question: can I make custom trays that will hold a whole unit that is stuck to its magnetic slide tray? i.e. can i get deep foam trays with just big rear end squares/rectangles cut out? followup: will my models get jacked up if i do so? (thinking they'll be fine, but better safe than sorry)
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Jul 23, 2010 18:27
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enri posted:there's not enough orange armies out there :/ I'm going to slap some of those cf orange on a spare marine I've got knocking around and see what happens. I was just today considering making my Lizardmen Orange and black, I think it would look pretty slick.
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Jul 23, 2010 18:37
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PaintVagrant posted:
I just want to pimp this again, a couple of goons have taken advantage and gotten some really nice deals!
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Jul 24, 2010 02:22
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PAINTVAGRANT.COM'S FIRST ANNUAL PRE-GENCON SALE!
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Prefect Six posted:What's the best way to attach guns and stuff in a modular fashion? Say one game i want my captain to have a plasma pistol but the next i want him to have a multimelta. Do I keep different arms lying around and do the magnet thing? Do I putty in the gun and hope it holds? I posted this and then right after some rear end in a top hat posted amazing pictures of sweet looking space marines, so I think it got lost. Either that or it's a dumb question 
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Jul 24, 2010 02:38
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You can magnetize at the arm joint, but it can be a real pain in the rear end and they sometimes fall off in game, get damaged, etc. Personally Im not a huge fan of magnets for marine models, Id just pick a loadout and stick with it. Dread arms and poo poo like that though, thats a different story
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Jul 24, 2010 02:42
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PaintVagrant posted:You can magnetize at the arm joint, but it can be a real pain in the rear end and they sometimes fall off in game, get damaged, etc. Do you suggest using magnets for dread arms though? They got that whole peg-and-hole setup...
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Jul 24, 2010 02:52
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Ive painted a bunch of models that had them magged, it worked really well, the bond was super strong and they didnt want to fall off like marine arms want to sometimes. That being said, I only did the actual magnetizing/drilling myself ONCE, and I used a powerdrill on forgeworld models because Im a crazy motherfucker (wore a mask)
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Jul 24, 2010 04:19
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Wazzu posted:The left one
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Jul 24, 2010 08:07
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BITCHES I need your help. Already got: black undercoat, basecoat of mechrite red on khorne lord Need: semi-decent looking but as easy as fuckin' possible recipe for a dark red Because: I'm a lazy poo poo and we've got one week to complete our oath, one week is nowhere near enough time for me to paint enough layers of red on using my usual recipe so I turn to you, the collective goon bank of knowledge, to give me a dirty cheap red recipe involve a black undercoat and a basecoat of mechrite red. What'ya got for me? edit: tiny hams ITT 
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Jul 25, 2010 00:23
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Drybrush blood red, wash baal red or gryphonne sepia? That should give you some nice brighter highlights and darker shade.
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Jul 25, 2010 00:46
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Wash Devlan, drybrush whatever the gently caress you want, wash Baal.
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Jul 25, 2010 00:57
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I've gone back down the stupid route of giving it a thinned wash of VGC sepia again  drybrushing's an option at the mo though..
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Jul 25, 2010 01:07
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enri posted:Already got: black undercoat, basecoat of mechrite red on khorne lord Wash baal red, wash thinned delvan mud, wash baal red again, hit up some black in the recessed areas, very light dry brush of an orange red.
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Jul 25, 2010 01:29
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Well, after this base dries and I stick the model on it, I will have finally finished a miniature. It only took me, what, 2 years? 
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Jul 25, 2010 02:02
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I love the feeling when I, after hours and hours of assembling and painting, finish the base and I can look at the mini and go "FINISHED!"
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Jul 25, 2010 10:05
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Ikke en viking posted:I love the feeling when I, after hours and hours of assembling and painting, finish the base and I can look at the mini and go "FINISHED!" Painting my base rims is the sweetest part of the whole process.
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Jul 25, 2010 14:15
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Cross-posting from the Warmahordes oath thread:  And a non-oathed finished model: 
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Jul 25, 2010 20:58
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That color scheme loving owns
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Jul 26, 2010 00:19
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I have never used Simple Green to strip plastic minis, and I am about to need to. Do you use it diluted or not? Do you do the whole "toothbrush until it's clean" and then wash it off with some warm soapy water and then call it a day? How good of a job will this do of getting my minis back to pre-crappy undercoat condition?
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Jul 26, 2010 00:55
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KingMob posted:Cross-posting from the Warmahordes oath thread: This post = a good post.
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Jul 26, 2010 00:59
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