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I think the best method is slathering the raw foam in watered-down PVA (elmer's) before you start painting it.
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Jul 27, 2010 21:14
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There are a few sprays that are foam-friendly, but they're expressly marketed as such. If you aren't sure, just assume any sort of spray stuff will melt your foam into a GLOMPY mess. If this is for terrain, another option is to buy a can of latex based paint from Home Depot or some place similar. You can generally find cans of pre-mixed colors that people didn't pick up for really cheap and get colors added to those. So either look for a white/off-white can or some kind of earth tone. A gallon of paint can last a modeler a fairly long time. 
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Jul 27, 2010 21:26
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It was actually the foam in the middle of foamboard.. and it doesn't seem to dissolve it after a brief test...
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Jul 27, 2010 21:54
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Danger - Octopus! posted:It was actually the foam in the middle of foamboard.. and it doesn't seem to dissolve it after a brief test... give it time.. I've had spray look like it had barely done a thing but came back to it the next day and half of it had caved in 
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Jul 27, 2010 22:05
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Purposely putting super-glue on pink foam to make it get all melty and cool looking makes for some awesome terrain options though.
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Jul 28, 2010 04:26
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Remember back when GW came out with the FB Siege supplement and there were all sorts of articles on how to make your generic castle look more appropriate for specific armies? Does anybody have a link to the article on making it look more Vampire Countsy?
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Jul 28, 2010 04:50
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J Bjelke-Postersen posted:Is the paint thick as all get out? Can we see a photo to scrutinise and then laugh at? Well when I had them I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed and it fell apart in my hand but not before a god damned spear stabbed me in the thumb so bad I needed a stitch and then I threw the things at my friend and yelled at him for being a supertard and then I cried over my thumb while the fresh scent of Simple Green lingered. So no. No pictures.
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Jul 28, 2010 05:06
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moths posted:Remember back when GW came out with the FB Siege supplement and there were all sorts of articles on how to make your generic castle look more appropriate for specific armies? You could hang Crypt Guard (the dudes with Killing Blow?) shields from the outer walls, have bats hanging upside down in the entrance, and have wolves and stuff prowling around the outside.  Also cobwebs if at all possible. Make the place look spooky.
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Jul 28, 2010 05:45
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adding to bhsman's thoughts, have it look neglected as well.. doors hanging off of hinges, moss and all sorts of crap growing around the castle. The dead have no need for keeping the place clean 
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Jul 28, 2010 09:55
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Pardon the crosspost from Oaths...Beffah posted:
But I had a question. I started with some +/- 40mm washers, layered some thick cardstock on top, then used used spackle paste to build them up, to give a more terrain-ish effect. I sealed them with watered down Elmer's, then primed them with gesso (ugh, but it does have it's uses)... does anyone have any suggestions other than those to keep the spackle from chipping up too badly on the edges?
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Jul 28, 2010 16:52
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Beffah posted:does anyone have any suggestions other than those to keep the spackle from chipping up too badly on the edges? Mix elmers with spackle paste.
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Jul 28, 2010 18:25
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Cakefool posted:Mix elmers with spackle paste. This, or add a strengthener. In this case, I would recommend fiberglass cloth, dried and shredded banana leaves (not kidding) or even tamale wrappers shredded (again, not kidding). It works how concrete would work: by having various additives of different texture and strength, it produces a more solid whole that resists wear and chipping.
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Jul 28, 2010 19:15
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Modelling latex would also work well, it's £5 for 2l hereabouts. It dries slowly but it'd leave enough resilience & flexibility to benefit. I also know you can add acrylic paint to it during mixing.
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Jul 28, 2010 19:51
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Im lazy so Id probably just varnish the heck out of it
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Jul 28, 2010 19:52
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PaintVagrant posted:Im lazy so Id probably just varnish the heck out of it This.
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Jul 28, 2010 21:59
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bhsman posted:Make the place look spooky. True, and that would ordinarly be enough, but I'm looking for that specific article that showed how they built-up wall sections and gothic'd the poo poo out of the studio VC castle. I'd like to do that same style for some Warmaster terrain.
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Jul 29, 2010 00:17
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Cakefool posted:Mix elmers with spackle paste. This actually worked pretty well (I gessoed while the glue was still tacky). Fiberglass rosin would be have been my second bet actually, but it stinks (at least the stuff I have access to at work).
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Jul 29, 2010 00:26
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 STORE UPDATE! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3304041
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Jul 29, 2010 02:39
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Sole.Sushi posted:Purposely putting super-glue on pink foam to make it get all melty and cool looking makes for some awesome terrain options though. Yeah it makes good blast holes/melted rock. Another good method is to lay down a blob of PVA and put a drop of superglue on top, it causes the top layer of PVA to shrink and contract and looks all pockmarked and awesome. You can make a bunch of these, then pop them off of whatever you made them on and attach them to whatever you need them for (they make great nurgle's rot on vehicles).
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Jul 29, 2010 05:46
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Just FYI, P3 Umbral Umber is a super rich, awesome brown. That's all.
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Jul 29, 2010 06:00
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what was that P3 paint that everyone raves about for highlighting black? some charcoal colour or something? or coal? I'm sure coal is mentioned in the name but I'm too busy to crack open a new tab and go googlin'
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Jul 29, 2010 09:56
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Coal black. It's a really, really dark turquoise color.
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Jul 29, 2010 10:05
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cool beans, ta for that.. off to order me some reet now
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Jul 29, 2010 10:55
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Blood Angel Assault Terminators Incoming:           Not collecting Blood Angels as such, but wanted to paint some Terminators. I've always hated painting red, and usually avoid it. Decided to man up and learn, so BA's it was Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 12:27 on May 21, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2010 11:32
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Yup, those own pretty hard.
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Jul 29, 2010 12:35
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Skarsnik, they own hard. I feel bad now posting asking for feed back with my models so close to those awesome ones, but I'm tired and don't want to wait for stuff in the morning .gently caress yeas, Eldar. Eldrad being the pimpest mofo in the universe since the Emporah.  Click here for the full 818x936 image. Obviously a very WIP photo, something I'm planning for GD, though it remains to be seen if it will make it to a standard that I would be happy with entering into GD. Harsh criticism is very welcome and anything you don't like or think should be changed . Mostly what is done is the actual robe and the inside of the cape. Click here for the full 822x1080 image. Here, have horrible flash because I'm a terrible person. I was hoping it would show out some more of the colours in the recesses.
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Jul 29, 2010 16:35
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I want to paint the miniatures for some board games I have (BSG & Chaos in the Old World). I didn't want to experiment on them straight away (I have 0 experience in painting), so I bought some orks to try it out first. I'm following what some other guy on BGG did (see: http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/390388/the-reluctant-painters-guide-to-painting-your-bsg): prime black, then drybrush metallic colors. This worked fine, so I now have a metallic black ork. (I even drilled his barrels.) For most of my BSG spaceships, this will be fine because all I plan to do is just that. Some of them however should have some red parts. The walkthrough on BGG said to use a red ink. Apparently GW inks are now washes so I got some Baal Red and tried it out. It seemed very dark and almost invisible at first but I gave it four coats and it's becoming more visible. I think it would've been more visible with more metallic paint below it too, so I guess it'll work out. (Although maybe I should get Mechrite red, which I didn't see in the shop where I got the paint. Edit: and if it even exists, which I'm starting to doubt now.) But then I also wanted to paint some other parts with regular paint, just for testing how that would work. I took some paint and added water to thin it, in various ratios. But either the paint would act too much like a wash, pooling together, or it would be too thick which had the effect of leaving brushstrokes. So I guess I'm asking how I'm supposed to put a thin, even coat of paint on a miniature. I checked the internets but couldn't really find what I'm looking for. Videos tend to leave out the thinning part of the painting and I guess that's where the problem is. Or maybe I have too much paint on my brush? The wash was much, much easier to paint with, I could put a very thin layer of paint on the model just like that. No problems with paint pooling or brushstrokes or anything. Any ideas/tips? uXs fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jul 29, 2010 |
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Jul 29, 2010 21:29
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Just finished these for the "saga of warmachine painters" thread:  
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Jul 29, 2010 22:00
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I want to steal that turqoise for those Forgeworld Tau suits.
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Jul 29, 2010 22:23
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I seriously dig the ruby blades on that caster.
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Jul 29, 2010 23:19
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Can't get enough of those autumn bases.
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Jul 29, 2010 23:25
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uXs posted:Some of them however should have some red parts. The walkthrough on BGG said to use a red ink. Apparently GW inks are now washes so I got some Baal Red and tried it out. It seemed very dark and almost invisible at first but I gave it four coats and it's becoming more visible. I think it would've been more visible with more metallic paint below it too, so I guess it'll work out. (Although maybe I should get Mechrite red, which I didn't see in the shop where I got the paint. Edit: and if it even exists, which I'm starting to doubt now.) quote:But then I also wanted to paint some other parts with regular paint, just for testing how that would work. I took some paint and added water to thin it, in various ratios. But either the paint would act too much like a wash, pooling together, or it would be too thick which had the effect of leaving brushstrokes. So I guess I'm asking how I'm supposed to put a thin, even coat of paint on a miniature. I checked the internets but couldn't really find what I'm looking for. Videos tend to leave out the thinning part of the painting and I guess that's where the problem is. Or maybe I have too much paint on my brush? Just GLOMP a brushfull of paint from a pot onto a palette (which can be anything from a paper plate to a ceramic tile to a homemade wet palette [this is the best]). Dip your brush in some clean water, then mix the really wet brush up with the paint. I then clean my brush off, dry it a bit on a paper towel, and load it with some paint. If you overload it, it'll spill out all of your mini and make detail work hard, so just wipe some off on a paper towel. If it's too thick and you're getting brush strokes, add a tiny bit of water and remix. If it's too thin, add a little bit of paint. It's annoying, but you really will get the feel for it before long. Now I better go and finish my oath before I become a failure. 
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Jul 29, 2010 23:59
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PaintVagrant posted:Just finished these for the "saga of warmachine painters" thread: It's a shame that we couldn't get Warmahordes into the oath thread (thanks to now defunct GW sponsorship), but I'm glad to see that someone did it, especially if it produces hardcore awesome results like this. I'd totally play Warmachine and/or Hordes if I had anyone near me playing the drat game aside from myself.
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Jul 30, 2010 03:16
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why does zap super glue gel pour continuously out of the tube without stopping? one tiny squeeze sends out 3 tablespoons of glue.
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Jul 30, 2010 03:41
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Here are better pics of Eldrad, cause the ones I took last night after coming home from pubhams weren't that good.      Two different camera settings, two different lot of pictures. He is only blue tacked down to his base, I've got to paint that separately.
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Jul 30, 2010 04:35
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Speedpainted (by my standards, took like six hours total, but all in one day) a feral warpwolf, pretty happy with it. Annoyed by a couple of wash rings and a tiny bit of screwed up varnish in a hard to see spot, but I'll live. Much better than the primed one I was staring at this morning. (also gently caress getting a hair in frame when taking a quick picture, argh)
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Jul 30, 2010 05:03
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Aranan posted:It sounds like you're painting red washes onto a black primed area. I honestly have no clue how many coats it is going to take for that to look really red and I'm not sure if it's even possible without going insane and putting on 20+ layers. Yeah, that's what I was doing. The poster on BGG said he used red ink, and washes are supposed to be the next version of inks, so that's what I used. I put on 4 coats (it dries really quickly, so it didn't took that much time) and the area has a reddish shine now, particularly at the edges where the metal color was the strongest. I'm going to experiment a bit more with other paints, but if it doesn't work out I might very well go a bit insane and put on 10 layers of wash. Because while it's pretty dark, it still looks much better than the parts I painted with regular paint. It's much more translucent, keeping the metallic look. The other paint looks like, well, paint. Maybe doing it thinner and with more layers would help. Aranan posted:I had a problem with thinning paints, too. Everything you read on the internet is vague and asking people gets you answers like "just try it out and see". Unfortunately, it's because you have to just try it out and see. Different brands have different thicknesses. Different colors within the same brand can have different thicknesses. Heck, different bottles of the same exact color within a brand can be different. Is it better to use a totally flat area for mixing, or can you use something with recessed areas? I have two plastic palettes with fairly shallow holes in them. If paint needs the consistency of milk I guess it would just run all over on a completely flat palette? And another question: if you're mixing paint, and need to give something multiple layers, what you do you with the mixed paint while the previous layer is still drying?
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Jul 30, 2010 08:40
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uXs posted:Yeah, that's what I was doing. The poster on BGG said he used red ink, and washes are supposed to be the next version of inks, so that's what I used. uXs posted:Is it better to use a totally flat area for mixing, or can you use something with recessed areas? I have two plastic palettes with fairly shallow holes in them. If paint needs the consistency of milk I guess it would just run all over on a completely flat palette? These are awesome. (Most stores carry them, but PV pimping is always good.) The wells help keep the paint contained, and decently wet while working over time. It helps with thinning, too, as I can simply pull some of the paint up the side of the well to see how quickly or how much of it runs back down into the well. Cleanup is easy, too, as dried paint peels or scrapes right off. If I've already poured some paint and need to keep it in the wells for a while, I usually put some plastic film (baggie, cellophane, whatever) over the top of the well. A tiny bit of paint around the rim of the well will seal hold the plastic in place and work like a little airtight paint pot (and peel right off when you're ready to return.)
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Jul 30, 2010 08:53
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Tadhg posted:Are you sure he doesn't do this over a white prime, instead of black? I've done several coats of ink over light basecoats to create vibrant, rich, darker colors. I can't imagine doing this over black; there's nothing to stain/shade. Yeah. It's black primer, then drybrush with chainmail, and then red ink. Maybe he's getting a lot of chainmail on there and coloring that. Tadhg posted:These are awesome. (Most stores carry them, but PV pimping is always good.) The wells help keep the paint contained, and decently wet while working over time. It helps with thinning, too, as I can simply pull some of the paint up the side of the well to see how quickly or how much of it runs back down into the well. Cleanup is easy, too, as dried paint peels or scrapes right off. Ok. The palettes I have are pretty much the same in a different shape. Not sure about ease of cleaning though, dried paint wasn't eager to come off.
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Jul 30, 2010 09:07
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uXs posted:Yeah. It's black primer, then drybrush with chainmail, and then red ink. Maybe he's getting a lot of chainmail on there and coloring that. Interesting technique. I'm curious to see what the desired end result looks like. As for the palettes, the ones I use are a hard plastic with a smooth, glossy finish; nothing at all for the paint to adhere to. Large areas of dried paint peel right off; smaller sections need to be scratched/scraped a little with your fingernail, but it's still no problem. If you wanted to get fancy, the scratchy side of a sponge would be all you need to completely clean it up.
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Jul 30, 2010 09:12
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