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there's plenty of tools out there for doing copper pipe etc. that stop the pipe caving in on itself although they're probably all too big for fiddly modelling crap. do you need a perfect 90 degree bend?
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Aug 1, 2010 16:54
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enri posted:there's plenty of tools out there for doing copper pipe etc. that stop the pipe caving in on itself although they're probably all too big for fiddly modelling crap. do you need a perfect 90 degree bend? I might be able to get away with something not quite 90. I was thinking of bending the pins I use to pin models to bases so it's an L shape with the bottom part of the L hooking under the bottom of the base and giving it more surface area to glue to. Looking at it from underneath the base: 
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Aug 1, 2010 17:01
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Pliers are fine. Bend them a bit with the pliers and then press them down further.
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Aug 1, 2010 17:11
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Aranan posted:I might be able to get away with something not quite 90. I was thinking of bending the pins I use to pin models to bases so it's an L shape with the bottom part of the L hooking under the bottom of the base and giving it more surface area to glue to. I do that kind of thing with paper clips all the time. Pliers work fine.
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Aug 1, 2010 17:57
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Need to do hair, bottle, pig and base, but 
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Aug 1, 2010 18:10
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Aranan posted:Is there a tool out there that would easily allow you to bend brass rod at a 90 degree angle? I'm thinking of some sort of pliers that have a V shape to them. For like $5 for a cheapy at an autoparts store, look for a brake-line bender, if you want exact angles. Also useful if you ever actually need to do your brakes.
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Aug 1, 2010 18:37
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Has anybody here ordered any of the Trollforged miniatures stuff? Any opinions on their casting?
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Aug 1, 2010 19:35
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Aranan posted:I might be able to get away with something not quite 90. I was thinking of bending the pins I use to pin models to bases so it's an L shape with the bottom part of the L hooking under the bottom of the base and giving it more surface area to glue to. Get a cheap pair of needlenose pliers, they'll come in handy for a shitload of modeling activities. (also, Firefox's spell check catches 'needlenose' as inappropriate, but 'shitload' is just fine  )
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Aug 1, 2010 20:32
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Fix posted:Has anybody here ordered any of the Trollforged miniatures stuff? Any opinions on their casting? I ordered one of those modular demon lords from them. Pretty pleased with it. Plastic, almost zero flash. Pretty clean mold overall, though I've yet to assemble it. I can take some pics if you want, I haven't touched it since it arrived.
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Aug 2, 2010 22:49
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I'll give it a shot with my cheap needlenose pliers that I have. I just didn't want to accidentally slip and bang a model against the desk or something.  Has anyone tried "juicing" as a painting method as described in this article? I'm pretty sure someone linked to it early in in this thread's life, but I can't find the page it's on. Anyway, it sounds pretty interesting. It's kind of like layering, but instead of putting down successive layers of shading and highlights, you're putting down successive layers of the same color, but just doing it in steps with the color super thinned. So maybe one pass of Ice Blue on the highlight areas, then another pass on just the edges to make it stand out a little more. Aranan fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 23:11
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Aranan posted:Has anyone tried "juicing" as a painting method as described in this article? That's the first time I've heard of this being called "juicing" but this technique is, as far as I know, older than dirt. Setting a base color at a mid range and then adding shades and highlights with several thin layers of your shade and highlight colors isn't anything particularly new, and with practice, can produce some pretty awesome effects. If I'm not mistaken, this sort of technique was originally a 2-D painting technique applied to a 3-D surface, which as of late has become a more commonplace practice. I've personally tried doing this once or twice way back when, and I hated how it looked. But, having gotten a bit more skill and technique under my belt now, I might have another go at it, because as I said, with practice, you can make some super smooth transitional highlights and shading.
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Aug 2, 2010 23:27
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Aranan posted:Has anyone tried "juicing" as a painting method as described in this article? I'm pretty sure someone linked to it early in in this thread's life, but I can't find the page it's on. Anyway, it sounds pretty interesting. It's kind of like layering, but instead of putting down successive layers of shading and highlights, you're putting down successive layers of the same color, but just doing it in steps with the color super thinned. So maybe one pass of Ice Blue on the highlight areas, then another pass on just the edges to make it stand out a little more. I've given it a couple tries and I really like the results but the only time I'd use it was for painting display models, I find it much too slow for batch models. Also I prefer this article by Seb for juicing as you can see him actually applying it.
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Aug 2, 2010 23:57
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Juicing works, but you have to use paints that are somewhat transparent, otherwise your transitions are too obvious. Glazing is the same way, you have to use paints that have a non-opaque pigment
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Aug 3, 2010 00:36
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So I've been kinda looking at Iwata airbrushes on amazon, will I be able to make suitably nazi tank camo with something like this?
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Aug 3, 2010 03:07
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Iwata is a good brand with good reputation. That setup should be able to do your camo and then some.
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Aug 3, 2010 03:21
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Here, more pictures of Eldrad   Click here for the full 981x1473 image.  Click here for the full 1098x1443 image.  Click here for the full 882x1158 image. Right shoulder is in the process of being redone, I found a mould mimatch, not a line; so I had to take a hobby knife to it. Purple gems still need some blacklining and another level to really make them pop. C&C me up.
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Aug 3, 2010 03:30
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No, gently caress juicing. It's unacceptable when Barry Bonds or Mark MacGuire do it, why do warhams get a pass?
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Aug 3, 2010 05:28
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:No, gently caress juicing. It's unacceptable when Barry Bonds or Mark MacGuire do it, why do warhams get a pass? avatar/post combo makes this
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Aug 3, 2010 05:45
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Jesus gently caress:  
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Aug 3, 2010 07:33
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I remember way back when, PV always told us that there are painters far more skilled than he is. And no one believed him.
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Aug 3, 2010 08:40
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So what makes those so infinitely better than PV's stuff.
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Aug 3, 2010 11:12
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I'd say it looks like they airbrushed on those highlights. . . but poo poo, is it possible to get that type of control with an airbrush?
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Aug 3, 2010 11:24
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Captain Invictus posted:So what makes those so infinitely better than PV's stuff. I think your eyes are broken sir.
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Aug 3, 2010 12:47
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Fix posted:Jesus gently caress: Oh god so hot 
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Aug 3, 2010 13:40
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Just got my AoBR (thanks PV) and have a question: are there any good articles on preparing miniatures to be painted, ie removing mold lines, etc? I went to town on a few and I think I might be getting a bit overzealous with the file and knife. I've never seen what removed mold lines look like and what's good enough and what is going to show after priming. I imagine this is one of those learn by experience things, but if you guys have any tips I'd appreciate it.
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Aug 3, 2010 14:55
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Prefect Six posted:Just got my AoBR (thanks PV) and have a question: are there any good articles on preparing miniatures to be painted, ie removing mold lines, etc? I went to town on a few and I think I might be getting a bit overzealous with the file and knife. I've never seen what removed mold lines look like and what's good enough and what is going to show after priming. I imagine this is one of those learn by experience things, but if you guys have any tips I'd appreciate it. errrm... removed mold lines don't look like anything v  vIn a nutshell, for plastics you're better off using a hobby knife. Hold it at a 90 degree'ish angle to the mold line and 'scrape' the mold line away. It's a piece of piss with plastics and you'll pick it up in no time whatsoever. Metals on the other hands, I hate removing mold lines on metal models 
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Aug 3, 2010 15:03
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So you shouldn't be able to see any sort of crease or residual line? I've been scraping them and using the thin edge of the file mostly, but also worried I'm doing more harm than good. Oh well, have to learn somehow.
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Aug 3, 2010 15:08
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lighttigersoul posted:I'd say it looks like they airbrushed on those highlights. . . but poo poo, is it possible to get that type of control with an airbrush? Yeah, I know a guy way back when who did a grey knights army on commission and I think for 95% of it he used an airbrush, on the guys and the land raiders and whatever. Damned if I could find pictures of it now though. Of course if you're really loving good at blending, the airbrush isn't necessary for that effect.
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Aug 3, 2010 15:11
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Devlan Mud posted:Of course if you're really loving good at blending, the airbrush isn't necessary for that effect. 
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Aug 3, 2010 15:37
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Fix posted:Jesus gently caress: Those are Jamie Downward's models. Basically they were painted with a mix of airbrush and just brush. He airbrushed on the main colour (the grey green) and then airbrushed on a highlight from above the model to get a zenithal light effect, that he then went and refined with a paintbrush. This dude has won a heap of Australian Golden Demons. No offence meant to PV, but they blow his models out of the water The dude with the double handed axe and horned helmet was painted by Sebastian Archer, and he didn't use an airbrush. He has won a couple of Australian Slayer Swords and a heap more Golden Demons, I thinka couple in the UK as well. They both post on Oz Painters, which has some ridiculous number of good painters posting fairly regularly (from around the world, not just Australia)
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Aug 3, 2010 15:56
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Anything with good zenith lighting and blends like that = super rad
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Aug 3, 2010 16:02
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PaintVagrant posted:Anything with good zenith lighting and blends like that = super rad You got it. I basically take anything that Sebastian Archer says as gospel, and Jamie Downward is hugely influeced by his painting as well, especially in colour choices. I will be trying out some of Sebs techniques in painting the 2000 GD Black Orc for display, and possibly entry into the Golden Demon next year.
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Aug 3, 2010 16:16
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Big Willy Style posted:No offence meant to PV, but they blow his models out of the water This is like saying big sportsman no. 1 is better than big sportsman no. 2 - they both blow the pants off of whatever the rest of us can do  When I'm rich PV, I'll hit you up for a commissioned army 
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Aug 3, 2010 16:57
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Captain Invictus posted:So what makes those so infinitely better than PV's stuff. The Stormtroopers are nice, but I liked PV's Grey Knights better. 
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Aug 3, 2010 16:58
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Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. So a coat of black primer, then a light coat of white, sprayed downward on the model. After that dries he uses a bunch of thinned paints/inks. It looks ballin, and it seems pretty easy to do.
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Aug 3, 2010 17:08
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. Which issue is that in?
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Aug 3, 2010 17:12
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. We have a warmahordes player locally who uses this technique to do fast zenithal lighting and it does produce pretty good results. I'm still trying to get the basics down and haven't had the inclination to try it just yet - I'd rather learn the old fashioned, slow way first and then the quick and dirty later.
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Aug 3, 2010 17:20
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. Curse or Beers is a commission painter over on The Warhammer Forum and does something like this as well, up close the models aren't that great, but across a unit or army, it looks amazing. Here are some links to his threads: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45082&start=0 PV, does the effect end up something like this? I think me might spray black, base coat, then spray white then do washes though. High Elves: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45082&start=0 VC with a lot of source lighting, meant to look like an army at night time: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40191&start=0 I think using an airbrush would work better than spray cans, as you should be able to get a finer mist, in some pics of those army you can see splotchy spray, but you should be able to eliminate that with an airbrush. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 18:36
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Yeah ideally youd use an airbrush for your first layers of zenith lighting, but if youre just going for quick TT quality stuff you can use the 2 spray can technique. Ive never really done either, so its all theory for me. Cool links, that elf army is ballin
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Aug 3, 2010 20:00
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There two insanely awesome looking armies in this thread, Wood Elves and Demons: http://www.asrai.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14104&sid=15a2004a977c5ee41fca11dc359b5f29   The amount of work he puts into every model is mind boggling.
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Aug 3, 2010 20:29
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