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Sarthek posted:Oh, that one's easy: my old radiator was taking a political science class and got a bit carried away with itself after a lecture on segregation. I know that can happen, I've just never actually seen it before. Wild.
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Aug 4, 2010 03:37
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frozenphil posted:The package will be available soon, probably this fall. It comes with the complete engine assembly with all the front end accessories as well as the engine harness. Should run around $8k if the previous offerings are any indication. From Jalopnik, just the crate motor has landed at $7k: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=11829 No ECU or harness, or even an alternator.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:14
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CombatWombat posted:The article is pretty dumb. It doesn't qualify WHY it beats these nebulous '$150,000 European sports cars,' (of which it names none, other than referencing that the current V8 makes more power than a first-gen Viper or 360 Modena--both of which are quite outdated) and it's just a gushy piece of feel-good crap for Detroit residents about 'MERICAN CARS.
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Aug 4, 2010 14:33
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kimbo305 posted:From Jalopnik, just the crate motor has landed at $7k: That would be totally awesome, I wonder if it would fit easily into a 99-04 model Stang?
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Aug 4, 2010 15:11
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kimbo305 posted:From Jalopnik, just the crate motor has landed at $7k: Sounds about right for the $8k range for the version with the ECU and accessories then. kalvick posted:That would be totally awesome, I wonder if it would fit easily into a 99-04 model Stang? I don't see why it wouldn't. The external dimensions on the Coyote are basically the same as the DOHC 4.6 that was available in the New Edge Mustangs. You wouldn't even need different motor mounts as the bolt holes are in the same place. 412hp in a stripped New Edge would be a 10second ride with a good driver (NMRA Factory Stock go bottom 11s with ~350hp).
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Aug 4, 2010 17:54
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I wonder if it would even be worth it for a 3v since you can get to 550hp with the stock bottom end and a supercharger.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:08
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turnerburna posted:I wonder if it would even be worth it for a 3v since you can get to 550hp with the stock bottom end and a supercharger. Probably not with the stock Coyote, but once Ford offers a version with forged internals it would be.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:10
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frozenphil posted:Probably not with the stock Coyote, but once Ford offers a version with forged internals it would be. What's the possibilty of that happening?
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Aug 4, 2010 21:57
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It will probably happen since they already offer the alumninator
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Aug 4, 2010 22:29
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Oxytocin posted:What's the possibilty of that happening? I'd be more surprised if they didn't offer a forged version.
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Aug 4, 2010 23:22
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Surprising no one, the BOSS 302 has been confirmed: http://blog.cardomain.com/2010/05/20/boss-302-mustang-confirmed-could-be-a-2011-or-2012-model/ quote:Rumors of a street-legal Boss 302 Mustang have been circulating for months and they really kicked into high gear when GM made the announcement that a Camaro Z28 is in the pipeline. Details are still sketchy and no formal horsepower numbers have been released, but we’re sure there’s going to be a line of Ford faithfuls with cash in hand once these babies get produced.
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Aug 6, 2010 02:58
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frozenphil posted:Surprising no one, the BOSS 302 has been confirmed: ...on May 20th
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Aug 6, 2010 03:49
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The Third Man posted:...on May 20th Yeah, I just missed it. I don't really look for automotive news on cardomain.com. How about something newer and of more interest to a wider audience?  Vortech's V3 S-trim kit will be out very soon. The V3 is a self contained unit, so no hole required in the oil pan, and it comes with an air to air intercooler. Vortech was also able to keep the factory airbox, a requirement if you want a CARB EO number.  Horsepower numbers aren't out yet, but most people in the know are saying 550hp @ 6-7psi. Livernois has dropped the first forged rod and pistons on the market as well. You can keep your factory oil squirters and the pistons come coated on the top and skirt. They currently only have 10:1 and 11.5:1 compression ratios on the shelf, but they can make you whatever you want. Street price looks to be $1250. 
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Aug 6, 2010 04:44
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If I'm ordering a V6 automatic will the 3.31s have a significant drop in MPG? My commute is ~52 miles round trip cruising at highway speed in the morning and hellish stop and go on the way back. (I basically drive the entire 105 freeway in LA)
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Aug 6, 2010 19:13
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BaronW posted:If I'm ordering a V6 automatic will the 3.31s have a significant drop in MPG? My commute is ~52 miles round trip cruising at highway speed in the morning and hellish stop and go on the way back. (I basically drive the entire 105 freeway in LA) We talked about this a little bit back. In short, no. These numbers are for the v8, but there isn't much difference between them gearing wise I don't believe. From page 4: frozenphil posted:2) At 70mph in 6th gear you'll be turning 1988 RPM with the manual or 2110 RPM with the automatic. This is based off of the stock 18" tire's 27.3" diameter, 3.55 rear gear, and a 6th gear ratio of .65 for the manual and .69 for the automatic.
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Aug 6, 2010 19:18
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BaronW posted:If I'm ordering a V6 automatic will the 3.31s have a significant drop in MPG? My commute is ~52 miles round trip cruising at highway speed in the morning and hellish stop and go on the way back. (I basically drive the entire 105 freeway in LA) Any difference in mileage due to the gearing will be infinitesimal.
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Aug 6, 2010 22:52
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pienipple posted:Any difference in mileage due to the gearing will be infinitesimal. Will the acceleration improvement be worth $400, then? 
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Aug 7, 2010 12:09
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BaronW posted:Will the acceleration improvement be worth $400, then? That's really up to you, isn't it?
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Aug 7, 2010 12:45
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What would the acceleration difference be between the different gearings?
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Aug 7, 2010 16:05
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A.o.D. posted:What would the acceleration difference be between the different gearings? Also, it depends where you want the acceleration. For example, I'd like gearing which would give me the maximum acceleration on a third gear run from 50mph, as that's the most common overtaking or joining-from-sliproad situation I find myself in.
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Aug 7, 2010 16:33
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InitialDave posted:While lower gearing should give you better acceleration, I guess you also have to consider where it'll put your shift points - for example, a 0-60 sprint is going to be hampered if you choose gearing that means you need to shift into third to do it. and which gearing would that be?
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Aug 7, 2010 16:52
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Just bought a 2001 GT, figured it was time for a fun car after owning a 93 Grand Am, a 98 Dakota, and an 04 Civic. The interior is pretty crappy but I just love the V8 sound.
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Aug 7, 2010 21:35
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Fastlane's turbo 5.0 is on the dyno. 534rwhp @ 5psi! Just dumb. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04V_f9hOCCU
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Aug 8, 2010 06:50
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drat, who needs a GT500 when a bolt on turbo kit is pushing 600+ hp from the engine! With that modest of boost I assume the stock engine handles it without problems?
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Aug 8, 2010 10:55
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BaronW posted:If I'm ordering a V6 automatic will the 3.31s have a significant drop in MPG? My commute is ~52 miles round trip cruising at highway speed in the morning and hellish stop and go on the way back. (I basically drive the entire 105 freeway in LA) A 3.31 is the biggest baby gear on earth. Fortunately a V6 automatic Mustang is now a respectable choice of Mustang compared to past offerings. If you're buying the 6 for the gas mileage to performance factor I'd spend the $400. It's really going to wake the car up. Alternatively if you have cold feet on the situation you can always buy whatever gear (2.73?) that comes in it and then be utterly disappointed. It's about ~$200 for a gear kit and about ~$350 to have someone install it correctly. Going this route you can get a higher gear than a 3.31 (which still is pretty boring.) Even with a 4.10 the car will probably pull 60 by the end of second gear. It's all dependant on how much throttle you're giving it. I'd recommend going to a 3.73 minimum myself down the road. The mileage difference is not a factor at all. All that you'll really feel is the fact that the car is a hell-of-a lot more responsive. I posted a chart a page or two back ago that looked at different gear ratios / speeds / RPMs on an SN-95. You can get a pretty good feel there. Basically what I'm saying is go bigger by all means. A 4.10 in a manual feels like more shifting but in an automatic it'll just feel like way more power since you're not inconvenienced by the shorter gears at all. 2004 GT: code:Q_res posted:This seems like a good time to forward a question I've been mulling over. Is there really any reason to get the 3.55s in the GT over the 3.73s considering they're the same price? I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will pop up and find a reason against it but I'm going to say nope. Maybe I'm just stuck in the SN-95/II days but any naturally aspirated car deserves the biggest gear possible if you're looking for performance. When looking at forced induction it's a different story. Let the motor do the work and not the gear (to a point. I'm not ever going to run a 4.56 on my setup.) Not to mention no one is ever going to go in your car and say "hey, you have too big of a gear!" Instead you'll hear, "holy hell, this pulls like hell." All you're losing is top speed and you're probably never going to notice the car only does 170 mph instead of 210 or something ridiculous. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 16:30
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This seems like a good time to forward a question I've been mulling over. Is there really any reason to get the 3.55s in the GT over the 3.73s considering they're the same price?
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Aug 8, 2010 21:00
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mod sassinator posted:drat, who needs a GT500 when a bolt on turbo kit is pushing 600+ hp from the engine! With that modest of boost I assume the stock engine handles it without problems? Yeah, their car is all stock outside of the turbo kit. That A/F ratio on the dyno sheet scares me, but I'm sure they'll tune that out soon. Q_res posted:This seems like a good time to forward a question I've been mulling over. Is there really any reason to get the 3.55s in the GT over the 3.73s considering they're the same price? Not really. The 3.73s make the most use of the transmission's gearing and the engine's RPM capabilities.
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Aug 8, 2010 21:29
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VibrioCholera posted:A 3.31 is the biggest baby gear on earth. Fortunately a V6 automatic Mustang is now a respectable choice of Mustang compared to past offerings. If you're buying the 6 for the gas mileage to performance factor I'd spend the $400. It's really going to wake the car up. Thank you, this is exactly the answer I was looking for. 
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Aug 8, 2010 23:15
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Let's say 3 years from now I'm looking at a used 2011 Mustang GT. How can I know how the car is geared if the previous owner doesn't have any information?
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Aug 8, 2010 23:42
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johnny sack posted:Let's say 3 years from now I'm looking at a used 2011 Mustang GT. How can I know how the car is geared if the previous owner doesn't have any information? You should be able to find out by VIN number. I have this link saved that you ought to be able to drop any old Ford VIN into: http://services.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1ZVBP8CH8A5114883
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Aug 9, 2010 00:01
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Does Ford still stamp the pumpkin with the gear on it? I know on the SN95 you could find your original gear ratio by looking at the stamping on the rear end housing and it would say what the car had. (On the 8.8" and 7.5" rear ends. Cobras were all 3.23 I believe. It was the 6 and GT that came in random gears). It will end in like #AS#AAS##355 and you'd be like "Oh, I have a 3.55." Something like that. It's stamped on there pretty clearly. No idea what's going on here: http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/2011mustang.shtml Has some information on 2011 VIN. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 9, 2010 |
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Aug 9, 2010 00:58
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Last September I bought a 2010 V6 (Automatic), and after coming from a 1984 5.0L V8 I'm obviously missing the power a bit. I've been looking into making some upgrades to squeeze some more performance (specifically acceleration/lower-end) out of it since I'll theoretically be driving this for a few more years now. From what I've read the first/simplest upgrade is adding a cold air intake (possibly also buying a tuner to tune it afterwards.) Does this make sense? Also, should I expect any performance increase from catback dual exhaust, or do I need to run a whole new exhaust system from the headers back to see anything out of it? Thanks!
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Aug 10, 2010 01:21
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Ugg boots posted:Last September I bought a 2010 V6 (Automatic), and after coming from a 1984 5.0L V8 I'm obviously missing the power a bit. I've been looking into making some upgrades to squeeze some more performance (specifically acceleration/lower-end) out of it since I'll theoretically be driving this for a few more years now. Don't bother with anything less than forced induction on the pre-2011 Mustang v6.
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Aug 10, 2010 01:42
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frozenphil posted:Don't bother with anything less than forced induction on the pre-2011 Mustang v6. Awesome, I guess at 5 grand for a supercharger I might as well have bought the V8, huh? 
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Aug 10, 2010 01:49
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Ugg boots posted:Awesome, I guess at 5 grand for a supercharger I might as well have bought the V8, huh? The complete kit is $3300 from superchargersonline.com; the tuner kit is $2700. If you troll the classified forums on corral.net and modularfords.com you'll eventually find someone selling one used for under $1500 for the complete kit or under $1000 for the tuner kit.
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Aug 10, 2010 02:01
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Ugg boots posted:Last September I bought a 2010 V6 (Automatic), and after coming from a 1984 5.0L V8 I'm obviously missing the power a bit. I've been looking into making some upgrades to squeeze some more performance (specifically acceleration/lower-end) out of it since I'll theoretically be driving this for a few more years now. Everything you do to a V6 is sort of blah pre-2011. A catback is going to do nothing but make noise. You're really not going to ever feel a difference. Would headers, an x-pipe, and catback setup do something? Yeah. For sure. Is it worth the money? That's up to you. Honestly since we're all talking GEARZZZ the biggest boost in the seat is going to be a big gear in the rear end. Everything else (short of forced induction / nitrous options) is just going to nickle and dime you to living hell and you're never going to be satisfied. Since you're looking at cold air intakes make sure you pick up a decent one. Many of them actually hurt performance due to wicked heatsoak. With a true CAI that goes through the fender this is less of a problem but many of them love heatsoak. (BBK, sup?) As mentioned before, troll mustang forums. Corral.net is huge so always stay on top of their classified section since it's big. Modularfords.com is more detailed and the dudes there will explain to you why something being half a millimeter off is going to make you lose .05MPG and .08 Horsepower. You can also cruise ModularMustangs.com as well. Community is pretty large and there's a ton of people who have no idea what the hell so if you go there the air intake recommendation thread will be huge. (As will the 14 other ones posted under the sticky since people can't read.) Personally I'd recommend C&L Intake parts for anything you're doing intake wise. They make quality products and you really can't go wrong with them. If you want a cheaper option I'd recommend the K&N FIPK II Air Intake kit. It's going to replace your stock tubing and give you a cone filter with a heat shield around it. If anything it sounds cool. edit: I totally forgot about JLT.
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 10, 2010 |
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Aug 10, 2010 02:11
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VibrioCholera posted:Personally I'd recommend C&L Intake parts for anything you're doing intake wise. They make quality products and you really can't go wrong with them. If you want a cheaper option I'd recommend the K&N FIPK II Air Intake kit. It's going to replace your stock tubing and give you a cone filter with a heat shield around it. If anything it sounds cool. JLT is owned by a fluid dynamics engineer and Mustang owner who got tired of crappy aftermarket cold air induction systems with no engineering behind them. He consistently wins head to head tests in the magazines and is an all around good guy. He actually started out selling his stuff over at modularfords.com out of his garage before demand required him to do it full time. I like C&L, but JLT flat beats them at every point in the curve and does it for less money. K&N is to be avoided unless you hate your MAF/enjoy spending a lot more money for less power/absolutely must have a brand name that the people at the Sonic cruise in will know.
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Aug 10, 2010 02:17
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Ugg boots posted:Awesome, I guess at 5 grand for a supercharger I might as well have bought the V8, huh? Yeah, and if you supercharge a V6(pre-2011), you better plan on buying a complete V8 diff, as you'll splinter the stock 7.5 V6 diff in short order.
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Aug 10, 2010 02:17
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JnnyThndrs posted:Yeah, and if you supercharge a V6(pre-2011), you better plan on buying a complete V8 diff, as you'll splinter the stock 7.5 V6 diff in short order. Yeah. Cars sure would be a lot better if they were like computers and you could decide one day to upgrade the engine for 7 grand or whatever and just throw it in.
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Aug 10, 2010 02:25
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So I just learned something. Apparently some nut makes an adapter to put any roots/tvs style supercharger that will fit on the '03/'04 Cobra onto the v6 too. For $2800 plus the cost of a tune and cowl hood or GT hood scoop (should be able to pick up a GT hood in your color for under $200 if you troll the classifieds) you can make your v6 sound like a cow falling off a building. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOVxz6PsdJM#t=0m13s
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Aug 10, 2010 02:29
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