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Russian Bear posted:94 from a few posts up, it's so tiny compared to everything else I can't wait to park it to my step dad's avalanche. What do auto shops usually charge to do the timing belt/water pump/seals all at once? I'm debating if it's worth paying someone else to do it or just going to our friend's lift in his garage and taking a weekend to do it ourselves. This is the best writeup I found changing timing belt / pump / seals / accessory belts: http://mx5unleashed.com/tech/timing-belt-mx5.html Took about nine hours on my own - well, my pump seal blew out so I retained the newish belt by putting some white-out on it  If you're doing a new belt be sure to pick up a crank alignment lever thingie from a miata forum or eBay, and the 21mm(?) socket for the crank bolt.Make sure you have beer, cake and good music available 
meltie fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 21:56
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aventari posted:Cool idea, but don't think that will work if you're doing the w/p too as it's behind everything Correct; if you're doing the whole thing and not a belt-only swap, you won't be able to leave any part of the belt on. Despite being a twin-cam, I actually had a much easier time keeping the cams and crank in time on this car than I did on a single-cam Volvo redblock. The tensioner is easy to deal with, and you can lock the cams in place fairly easily. On each cam near the front of the engine is a fairly large solid flat area; you can take a crescent wrench and snug it up on each one. Line them up so that the handles intersect, then take the biggest C-clamp you've got and clamp them together. Also, one of the easiest tricks to making sure they're in line with each other is to count the belt teeth between the gears before you take the old one off, and make sure you have the same number between them when you put it back on. Keep the car in fifth gear with the parking brake on and the rear wheels on the ground, and the crank won't budge. Edit: Meltie, Mike's is local to me. He did the top on my '99, though he didn't wear the crown when I talked to him. He used to have pricing for the job on his site and I think it was around $1k. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Aug 2, 2010 |
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Aug 2, 2010 23:14
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Well it hit 106* and the miata started overheating when I had the AC on. New waterpump/timing belt/etc was done like 2 months ago. Anyone know where I should start? also: are coolant re-route kits a waste?
crutt fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 02:43
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crutt posted:Well it hit 106* and the miata started overheating when I had the AC on. New waterpump/timing belt/etc was done like 2 months ago. Anyone know where I should start? also: are coolant re-route kits a waste? Radiator cap. Even if it looks perfectly fine get a new one anyway and check it off the list, it's like $7 for a good one from napa. edit: If that doesn't fix it, put the car up on ramps/jacks, take off the undertray, turn it on and just look for drips. I literally just went through this whole situation a week ago so just let me know if you need more help. I ended up having a hidden(?) crack/weep on the bottom seam of the radiator. Also be aware that some leaks don't occur until the coolant is pressurized enough, so let it get up to normal operating temp (190*f-ish). How old is your car? What's the color of the plastic on the radiator? The stock radiator is great but ~15 year old plastic is 15 year old plastic. Some people put ultraviolet dye in the system and then look over the engine compartment with a blacklight, which seems like a pretty nice way to check things. Jean Eric Burn fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 03:56
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I was having some overheating problems (still kind of do), but flush out your radiator well and fill it up with some new coolant. You live in Texas, right?
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Aug 3, 2010 04:31
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I'll go ahead and get a new cap tomorrow. No leaks as the fluid in the overflow tank stays pretty much constant; I've never had to add more. I forgot to mention the coolant was changed at the same time as the water pump.
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Aug 3, 2010 08:04
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To who was asking, 225/50 will definitely rub. That was the size of the tire on the MX-3 wheels I bought and they rubbed. No lowering or anything.
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Aug 3, 2010 13:59
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So I've been trying to find a Miata as a fun weekend driver, and I stumbled upon this car: http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/1878445278.html I know it's a bit over blue book for the year, but the owner has emailed me back saying that it's a factory hardtop. I'm not happy that they state the AC isn't working, but I could set aside some money to get that fixed. I'm starting to give up hope trying to find a nice NA in the Dallas area, and this is probably one of the better ones I've seen so far.
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Aug 3, 2010 20:31
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KBB means jack-all in regards to Miata pricing. that looks like a fine deal to me.
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Aug 3, 2010 20:54
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If the timing belt and waterpump were replaced recently, there's no reason not to pick it up.
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Aug 3, 2010 21:19
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awesome color too, what's that called?
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Aug 3, 2010 22:07
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Well I seem to have figured out my fan problem. The inside of the plug/connector on the AC fan seems to have melted. Anyone know what these are called and where I can get a new one?
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Aug 3, 2010 22:23
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aventari posted:awesome color too, what's that called?
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Aug 3, 2010 22:36
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So I failed the 15mph test, measured 71 ppm when the max is 66. Just barely pased the 25mph test with 49ppm max being 49ppm background: Ok I have a 1999 10AE, currently with 815xx miles, had the problem with the ignition coils about 4 years ago, replaced the coil but not before it destroyed the pre-cat. I had a feeling it destroyed the pre-cat and the 2nd cat, I ended up replacing the 2nd cat with one from another Miata, it passed smog and I kept driving it. I have a feeling the pre-cat will also need to be replaced as well? Problem is it's like a 500 dollar part, and i'm not so sure about doing the 2001+ header swap, I'm perfectly happy with the stock performance I just want to be sure I need to replace the pre-cat to pass the test. Is my car just running rich? Is there way to make an adjustment to make it pass without failing the test? Completely stock 99 miata.
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Aug 4, 2010 00:00
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kimcicle posted:So I've been trying to find a Miata as a fun weekend driver, and I stumbled upon this car: http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/1878445278.html That's a killer deal. Buy it now.
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Aug 4, 2010 00:37
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destructo posted:
One of the best colours My insurance document says 'metallic blue' and I feel like phoning up and getting it changed to 'flat' or 'non-metallic' just to make a point.With a matching hard-top too, that's fairly rare for Mariner DU.
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Aug 4, 2010 00:41
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My car is mariner blue but my registration says dark blue 
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Aug 4, 2010 01:10
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Last night I picked up my miata from a friend out on long island who installed my coilovers while I was away in California on business. While driving home I was so excited at how much better it was without blown struts and mangled strut mounts. The miata curse popped into my head, though, and I thought well poo poo, I hope that doesn't happen to me! It did. I parked it around the corner from my apartment, and today I came out to find this.  Door, fender, wheel, tire, are the obvious damage. The front wheels are not pointing in the same direction anymore so at least a tie rod as well. I have nowhere to work on the car within 50 miles, and no tools to do a job like this at my apartment. I also got a parking ticket! At least it still looks good, I'll figure this poo poo out tomorrow.  The front is sitting a little crooked as far as height goes, so I'm hoping my week old coilovers didn't get damaged. I can't find my wheel lock so I can't even check anything out until I borrow one tomorrow. 
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Aug 4, 2010 01:32
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infraboy posted:So I failed the 15mph test, measured 71 ppm when the max is 66. Just barely pased the 25mph test with 49ppm max being 49ppm Where are you located? I have the 99 manifold/pre-cat in my garage if you want to use it for the smog test. Another option is to run it down to 1/2 a tank, dump a 32oz bottle of 92% isopropyl rubbing alcohol in the tank and get it smogged again. I just did this to my Scirocco and it passed cleaner than it ever has.
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Aug 4, 2010 01:37
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Hey Aventari what have you done to your Miata? I saw you at the trackday my friends and I we just east of you in the pits.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:37
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destructo posted:KBB means jack-all in regards to Miata pricing. that looks like a fine deal to me. Phone posted:If the timing belt and waterpump were replaced recently, there's no reason not to pick it up. Moruitelda posted:That's a killer deal. Buy it now. I got the cash but the guy isn't returning my emails or my phone calls. I'm sure it'll work out, but I'll be sad if it vanishes before I even get to look at it in person.
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Aug 4, 2010 19:01
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aventari posted:Where are you located? I have the 99 manifold/pre-cat in my garage if you want to use it for the smog test. Northern CA, I sent you a PM, let me know if it's available.
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Aug 5, 2010 03:27
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Accidentally let the reservoir go dry while bleeding the brakes in one of my 91's and now have no pressure at the pedal. What do I need to bleed/replace to get it going again? Bleeding from a caliper doesn't seem to do anything at all now.
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Aug 5, 2010 16:22
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Might need to try using a vacuum bleeder at a caliper to pull some fluid through, or a pressure bleeder on the MC itself. Worst case, you have to pull the MC and bench bleed it.
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Aug 5, 2010 17:00
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I would try filling the master up and pumping the brakes like crazy and then try to bleed. I made that same mistake last time bleeding the miata but didn't have that problem.
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Aug 5, 2010 22:49
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has anyone got any advice on replacing a top? I just ordered a new one, and will be replacing it myself. I've read through the guides on miata.net, and it looks pretty straightforward, but is there anything other than the rain rail I should replace while I'm in there? anything I need to be really careful about?
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Aug 7, 2010 13:02
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The brake master cylinder was actually fine, the bleed screw on the caliper I was bleeding with was just so clogged it wasn't really opening. Replaced that bleed screw and got the air out of the system, but the new bleed screw leaks from the threads when the system is pressurized (fine with car off and pumping). Any suggestions for a safe sealant to use there?
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Aug 7, 2010 15:40
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Frank Dillinger posted:has anyone got any advice on replacing a top? I just ordered a new one, and will be replacing it myself. I've read through the guides on miata.net, and it looks pretty straightforward, but is there anything other than the rain rail I should replace while I'm in there? anything I need to be really careful about? Only thing you really need to replace IS the rain rail, just make sure you tighten the bolts/screws in the right order and to the right torque or you will have a leaky trunk.
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Aug 7, 2010 15:58
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beatdown posted:The brake master cylinder was actually fine, the bleed screw on the caliper I was bleeding with was just so clogged it wasn't really opening. Replaced that bleed screw and got the air out of the system, but the new bleed screw leaks from the threads when the system is pressurized (fine with car off and pumping). Any suggestions for a safe sealant to use there? Wikipedia claims Teflon tape is safe on the bleeder threads. I'm not 100% convinced, I could have sworn I'd heard it was bad to use in brake systems.
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Aug 7, 2010 16:17
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I'm pretty sure brake fluid melts teflon tape. If it isn't sealing right I would either replace the caliper or rethread for a bigger bleeder. You really don't want to be loving around with hacking your brakes together.
FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Aug 7, 2010 |
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Aug 7, 2010 16:45
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I've always been told to never use Teflon near any hydraulic systems.
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Aug 7, 2010 21:09
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Suniikaa posted:I've always been told to never use Teflon near any hydraulic systems. Correct. http://www.system-safety.com/articles/Teflon%20Tape%20Slo.pps It's a firing offense at our plant if they catch you using it on any pneumatic or hydraulic systems.
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Aug 7, 2010 23:30
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Suniikaa posted:I've always been told to never use Teflon near any hydraulic systems. Makes sense. Especially if the hydraulic fluid is heated above 550 degrees or so, at which point Teflon starts degrading and giving off very, very bad fumes (carcinogens, can also cause "Teflon flu" and pneumonia).
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Aug 7, 2010 23:48
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My 99 has ~70k miles and what I can only assume is the original power steering fluid. I've never had a car with p/s that I didn't immediately rip out, so I'm left wondering how do you best flush the system and replace the fluid? Is synthetic or anything worth it, or just throw in the cheapest dextron I can find?
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Aug 8, 2010 11:03
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Frank Dillinger posted:has anyone got any advice on replacing a top? I just ordered a new one, and will be replacing it myself. I've read through the guides on miata.net, and it looks pretty straightforward, but is there anything other than the rain rail I should replace while I'm in there? anything I need to be really careful about? Did mine recently and it was a breeze. I got one of the zipperless plastic tops which you don't end up having to do anything with the listings or whatever they're called. Very simple install. Only thing I'd watch is the molding that is attached to the car near the rain rail. Just make sure the lip is flipped up, but I think you can do this once the top is down quite easily if I remember.
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Aug 8, 2010 15:55
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Strongly considering picking up this 95 M-edition with 150k to turn into a dedicated AutoX car. I've given it two test drives, and there's no hesitation, noises, etc. The cruise control doesn't seem to work, or the radio. No maintenance records at all, but AutoCheck comes back clean (no accidents, just a few owners). Dealer's brought the price down to 3k -- anything I should be looking out for or doing? Kind of excited over it but I know nothing about Miatas. 
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Aug 9, 2010 02:53
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King-Kong posted:Strongly considering picking up this 95 M-edition with 150k to turn into a dedicated AutoX car. For strictly autox I'd look into a lighter car with less options and junk in there. The M edition has all the bells and whistles, per say. But if you don't care about that, I'd just make sure it has all the center caps b/c they're expensive and hard to find and check the normal stuff like leaks, etc. Check for rust just in front of the rear wheels on the under side. And the 65 mph shimmy.
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Aug 9, 2010 03:06
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Oh great! Another 95M. Way to try and be like the cool kids. I'm kidding. Just make sure you take those center caps off before doing any wild driving, replacing them is round about $80USD from ebay, and it sucks to catch a glimpse of one rolling off into the ditch.
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Aug 9, 2010 03:08
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King-Kong posted:Dealer's brought the price down to 3k -- anything I should be looking out for or doing? Kind of excited over it but I know nothing about Miatas. http://www.miata.net/faq/faq2.html#A But for 3k I personally would totally buy the poo poo out of that car.
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Aug 9, 2010 03:19
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Suniikaa posted:http://www.miata.net/faq/faq2.html#A $3k is a decent price for a high mileage Miata like that in good condition, but if it's going to be an autocross car alone, make sure that you buy the RIGHT one. You probably can't get a 94 R-Package and certainly can't get a 99 Sport Package or 07 MSR, but you can get a decent 91-93 with a viscous LSD that's competitive in ES and STS, or a 94-97 with an open diff (NOT Torsen) that's the same. Either way, though, there's a fair amount of weight added by the M Package. Don't get me wrong. It looks like a good car and a pretty decent price. But it's not a killer deal, and it's not exactly what you're looking for if you want something you can commit to autocross 100% and get the best results.
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Aug 9, 2010 04:11
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