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I apologise if this has already been covered (did a quick skim of the thread, didn't see anything). My flatmates 1991 E36 318i is leaking into the passenger compartment every time we get heavy rain, and rather than listen to him bitch and moan about it I'd like to try fixing it. It seems most of the water ends up under/in the back seat cushions but the boot/spare tyre well looks fairly dry. The car doesn't have a sunroof and the door seals appear to be in good condition. Any common leak points I should be checking first, or is this going to be a tedious process of elimination?
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Aug 11, 2010 02:51
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ljw1004 posted:However, even when I took the pump out and delivered 12v to it with a transformer, it didn't make a noise. Transformers put out AC. Try hitting the pump with 12v DC from a battery charger.
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Aug 11, 2010 03:02
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SlapActionJackson posted:Transformers put out AC. Try hitting the pump with 12v DC from a battery charger. Oh, this was an transformer for hobby electronics, one that puts out however many volts DC I care to dial it to.
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Aug 11, 2010 07:10
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In that case, it seems like you do have a dead fuel pump.
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Aug 11, 2010 14:17
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CornHolio posted:I'm pretty sure it's a myth. You don't want to let the fuel get that low because the debris can damage the fuel pump, and the pump runs hotter when it isn't submerged in fuel. The fuel pump is cooled by fuel running through it not the fuel surrounding it. I don't think there is anything wrong with letting the tank run low.
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Aug 11, 2010 14:38
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ozziegt posted:The fuel pump is cooled by fuel running through it not the fuel surrounding it. I don't think there is anything wrong with letting the tank run low. Ok, so I guess I don't need to worry about that then. I've got that new set of injectors on the way to me now, I'll update this with any progress once they're swapped out. How often does a thrown code related to a CEL not point to the correct problem? I'd hate to fix yet another thing here and still not solve this issue...
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Aug 11, 2010 19:31
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McMadCow posted:Ok, so I guess I don't need to worry about that then. I've got that new set of injectors on the way to me now, I'll update this with any progress once they're swapped out. I've always used the OBD codes as a starting point rather than definitive indicator of whats wrong. Example: An O2 sensor code might just be a vacuum leak somewhere, not a bad O2 sensor...
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Aug 11, 2010 20:05
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Dotcom656 posted:So it's me again, I've been offered another BMW, only difference is that it's a silver 2000 328ci with the same mileage as the black 325ci. But it's $6000 as opposed to $7500, plus the fact that I might be able to negotiate for $5500. One owner, private seller, family friend, and is in perfect condition no scratches or dents. Think about it - what car do you feel is appropriate? I'd pick the younger of the two cars - these cars last forever. The oldest bmw in our family is a '88 325i and we never had any HUGE problems with the car.. maybe the weatherstripping wore out and once we had to replace the radiator... at 156,000 + miles it's still riding solid. The only way i'd pick the SUV is if you lived in a cold climate..but if you know how to drive a RWD in the snow why go for the beater?
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Aug 11, 2010 20:40
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We don't get snow where I live. and I'm taking the slightly older one because I save 2 grand which will help through college. I pick it up tomorrow in any case and I'll report back with some pictures.
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Aug 11, 2010 20:51
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Dotcom656 posted:We don't get snow where I live. and I'm taking the slightly older one because I save 2 grand which will help through college. congrats  can't wait to see photos!
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Aug 11, 2010 21:30
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If you're that worried about saving 2 grand for college why the hell are you buying an E46 in the first place? 
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Aug 11, 2010 21:47
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Well it wasn't a matter of say "I can't afford to eat if I don't save this money" it was more along the lines of "Man I like this BMW. Oh hey there's one exactly the same but for cheaper. Saving money is always cool and I get a car I'll enjoy"
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Aug 11, 2010 21:58
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Dotcom656 posted:Well it wasn't a matter of say "I can't afford to eat if I don't save this money" it was more along the lines of "Man I like this BMW. Oh hey there's one exactly the same but for cheaper. Saving money is always cool and I get a car I'll enjoy" Not to mention that if you put the 2 grand into the car and a few tools, you'll have a sweet-rear end ride that will last you through college and well into your post-graduate life. Congrats on the purchase!
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Aug 11, 2010 23:23
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yeah I mean that's a great deal for an E46, I just hope you're lucky enough that someone doesn't jack it/gently caress it up while you have it at college.
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Aug 12, 2010 00:27
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Sterndotstern posted:Not to mention that if you put the 2 grand into the car and a few tools, you'll have a sweet-rear end ride that will last you through college and well into your post-graduate life. Congrats on the purchase! This is fantastic loving advice. Go to Sears and go crazy on a nice set of tools and keep $500 in a "Tool Account". I've been lucky enough to have my father give me tools as gifts for each holiday and birthday for the last 4 years.
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Aug 12, 2010 21:03
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How reliable are E46s? I'm on the fence about what to do. I can either buy a new Civic (or similar car) or buy a few year old 3series. If I don't plan on doing anything beyond basic maintenance myself (oil/fluids, brakes), how much is it likely to cost in upkeep? I really like the 330Ci and there's a big part of me that just wants to go for it. I cannot, however, buy a car that isn't going to be fairly reliable.
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Aug 13, 2010 02:16
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Okay I just got home from Inception. Here are the pics of my new 328Ci http://i37.tinypic.com/bg34w1.jpg http://i35.tinypic.com/359n8qu.jpg http://i37.tinypic.com/2z6fbed.jpg http://i37.tinypic.com/2rhrct3.jpg I absolutely love it.
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Aug 13, 2010 03:45
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So I'm interested in obtaining and keeping a e36 BMW around to gently caress with and dedicate to track days. Tomorrow I'm going to take a look at a '93 325is(manual 2dr for $1500). The craigslist ad says it runs but shakes over 40 mph, which could be caused by a number of things. How can I rule out frame damage? What other non standard surprises should I be looking for when I'm inspecting the car?
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Aug 13, 2010 05:44
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I got a letter from MINI USA that they are extending the high pressure fuel pump warranty for the 1.6L Turbo engine to 10 years/120k miles. I've kind of been expecting they would do this at some point, even though there isn't as much noise about it as there is on the I6 TT engine.
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Aug 13, 2010 05:51
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Dumb question #55: where would I go to find out about recall/warranty issue for my '05 Mini? I have a feeling we are missing out on some stuff.
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Aug 13, 2010 15:19
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Krakkles posted:How reliable are E46s? If you keep up with the maintenance, they are very reliable. But you HAVE to keep up with the maintenance, and it does cost more to maintain. Worth it, though.
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Aug 13, 2010 15:19
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Flyinglemur posted:Dumb question #55: where would I go to find out about recall/warranty issue for my '05 Mini? I have a feeling we are missing out on some stuff. Maybe here? http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm Here's what AllData has for the non-S Mini for 2005 M610206 05/01/2006 Campaign - Battery Replacement M120406 05/01/2006 Campaign - DME Software Upgrade (CVT Equipped Only) M320304 01/01/2005 Campaign - Power Steering Fan Relay Wiring Modification M230104 11/02/2004 Campaign - M/T Fluid Level M360304 11/01/2004 Campaign - Owners Manual Correction/Tire Monitor Let me know fi you want the details of any of those. There are also tons of other "customer interest" things... Fermunky fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 15:29
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revmoo posted:If you keep up with the maintenance, they are very reliable. But you HAVE to keep up with the maintenance, and it does cost more to maintain. Yes they can be reliable if you maintain them, but to put this in perspective, a G35 owner doesn't have to worry about the water pump going out or coolant tank cracking and destroying the engine. But also, random poo poo will break that you don't deal with on other cars. Sunroof covers, window regulators, xenon headlights, etc. There is also other technology in there which can cause issues but won't cause catastrophic failure (VANOS, DISA valve, etc). I did about $700-800 of work on mine when I bought it (did it myself, looking at thousands of dollars of work if I had someone else do it) and I'm not expecting any problems with the drivetrain. However I already have an issue with my sunroof shade clips and I'm sure the window regulators will go out at some point, but those things aren't expensive if you DIY.
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Aug 13, 2010 17:34
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Well, if you do the maintenance you don't have to worry about the surge tank cracking or the water pump going out. And don't G35's have HIDs as well? You're absolutely right that there is more poo poo to break than on Japanese cars, and they do cost more to maintain, but it's not a nightmare to own either.
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Aug 13, 2010 17:50
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I was going to look up G35 issues (I honestly don't know of any, but surely the car has SOME kind of fault) but I came across this and am laughing too hard to continue.
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Aug 13, 2010 18:04
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RapeWhistle posted:So I'm interested in obtaining and keeping a e36 BMW around to gently caress with and dedicate to track days. Unless you want to take on a project and you're willing to spend the $4-5k it requires to track prep a car, I'd avoid a beater E36 for "cheap" and look for one already sorted for track days. For reference, I sold my absolutely wonderful '93 325is track beater for $6k with PSS9 coil over adjustable Bilsteins, nice wheels/tires, and 100k miles. $6k is the absolute bottom floor for a reliably-trackable car. Seriously. Fake edit: this means that you're going to be doing $450 in cooling system refresh, $120 in changing all fluids, $1k in suspension cleanup, and that's it (if you've found an absolutely trouble-free well-maintained car to start with). If you end up having to clean up years of previous-owner neglect, you can quickly double that. Also, if you can't do the work yourself, you'll be looking at $100/hr for the labor. The labor for the "basics" outlined above will be around $2k. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 18:37
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revmoo posted:Well, if you do the maintenance you don't have to worry about the surge tank cracking or the water pump going out. And don't G35's have HIDs as well? Well the coolant issue is something that has to be done every 60k miles and even then a small number of people still have problems. My point is that it's reliable but if you skip it you are looking at really BIG costs. There is no item in Japanese cars which can cause such a catastrophic failure besides the timing belt. The HID issue is that some Xenon headlights in 2004-2005 sedans have a defect where the reflectors burn out. Looking at $3500-4000 to fix it unless you DIY. I was able to DIY and fix it for $400. I don't want to start a e46 vs g35 thread, but there is a oil burning issue with some motors, but if the oil consumption is bad enough the dealer can replace the engine under warranty. AFAIK that and interior rattles (from what I hear, these are documented) are the only significant problems with the G35. ozziegt fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 19:01
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Aren't the cooling system refreshes only needed every 60K miles if you don't replace the radiator/water pump with all aluminum parts? If you plan on keeping the car long term, you can just pay a somewhat higher upfront cost and have the things last a lot longer.
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Aug 13, 2010 19:54
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Cross posting this from the Stupid question thread: I've been hearing a clunking when engaging/disengaging the throttle and sometimes when just moving the shifter into gear (1999 E46 328i 5-speed), so I took it to the dealer to get the rear sub-frame checked out (there's the whole class action settlement thing, so I figured it might be that, and if it was, hey, free repairs.) It's not, here's what it came back as: " Clunking coming from torn differential real mount. Diff needs to be removed to replace bushing mount. Recommend sealing diff cover with diff removed, cover is seeping. Also rear trailing arm forward bushings torn. Front control arm bushings worn out. Need to install updated control arms before replacing bushings." So basically, most of my rubber wear items back there have worn, this was expected, but the dealer quoted me $3200, which of course is absurd. My question is, as a guy who's never worked on suspension before, how hard is this going to be for me to do. I have access to a jack and stands, a fair set of tools, and some experience wrenching, but never anything under the car other than oil change. I can pay my coworker to do this, but I'd like to do as much as I can. Is this going to be over my head? Thanks. Also, if anyone is feeling really nice, a shopping list from pelican parts would be great. I'm getting a bit lost on all the bushings and arms.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:34
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Deceptor101 posted:My question is, as a guy who's never worked on suspension before, how hard is this going to be for me to do. I have access to a jack and stands, a fair set of tools, and some experience wrenching, but never anything under the car other than oil change. I can pay my coworker to do this, but I'd like to do as much as I can. Is this going to be over my head? Thanks. This is going to be hard, but certainly not insurmountable. The trick with suspension work in general is having the right tools -- enough torque/leverage to free the bolts, swivels to get the sockets on there correctly, etc. It's a lot to take on for a first DIY, but if you have a buddy who can assist and you're up for a challenge/learning experience, it's do-able.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:40
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Deceptor101 posted:diff and suspension e46 stuff You need special tools to do the bushings. If you ask on e46fanatics on the local boards, someone may loan them to you (or invite you over to work together). The rear bushings have to be pushed out and without the tool it is nearly impossible. The front bushing require a hydraulic press, I think, but some people buy the arms with the bushings pre-pressed into them to avoid this, though there are still gotchas. Here's an RTAB DIY http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5352749 He claims no special tools but you'll notice it involves sawing and prying and all sorts of other crazy stuff. I borrowed an RTAB tool from a local guy and the task was pretty easy. The bolt directly through the bushing is torqued really hard and the bushing allows it to rotate in place so it was a colossal pain to get undone, but other than that the job was pretty easy. Once you finish, wait a week or so and then go get an alignment done (if you find the right NTB guy you can get a 'dealer alignment' for like $50). My diff seals are leaking too but the shop wants $700 to fix it (only $40 is part or something) and I haven't gotten around to trying to tackle it myself yet. I've seen DIYs for diff stuff and they don't look too bad (you need torx bits or something to disconnect the half shafts from the diff). The basic summary is to search e46fanatics or bimmerforums for DIYs and then make absolutely sure you have the special tools. I use getbmwparts.com (Tischer BMW) and they are great. You can message them on AIM and they will help you get the right parts for what you're doing.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:49
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So I'm looking at some E30s, and I just got back from test driving a '94 325is with 230,000 miles. Here's what was crazy about it: Everything worked perfectly and the A/C was ice cold, I'm just stunned, it's perfect. Oh, except I think the engine's spun a bearing, whirs like the devil's harmonica. But now I'm thinking more about it. The power steering was gone--left front boot was leaking badly. Now I'm thinking maybe the P/S pump was shot and that's what was whirring so badly. Anyone have some advice on that? (whir was rpm/load dependent, clutch in/out made no difference) By the by, car is $2000 (I'd offer $1500). If it needs a new P/S pump and steering rack but nothing else, would it be worth it?
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Aug 13, 2010 22:53
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Dave Inc. posted:So I'm looking at some E30s, and I just got back from test driving a '94 325is with 230,000 miles. Here's what was crazy about it: Everything worked perfectly and the A/C was ice cold, I'm just stunned, it's perfect. Where are you located? That's not really such a great price for a car with that high mileage and glaring issues like that. I got my '92 325i with 145K on it for $2K- complete with service records showing the cooling system replacement and loads of other recent work. Definitely talk him down to $1500 and don't go a penny more. The new PS rack is in the hundreds of dollars, and it sounds like you could drop a bit more on some other issues. Honestly I'd probably avoid that one altogether. EDIT: it's an E36 you're looking at.
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Aug 13, 2010 23:17
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McMadCow posted:Where are you located? That's not really such a great price for a car with that high mileage and glaring issues like that. I got my '92 325i with 145K on it for $2K- complete with service records showing the cooling system replacement and loads of other recent work. Definitely talk him down to $1500 and don't go a penny more. The new PS rack is in the hundreds of dollars, and it sounds like you could drop a bit more on some other issues. Honestly I'd probably avoid that one altogether. Thanks for the advice. And I knew E30 sounded wrong, woops.
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Aug 14, 2010 00:25
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Dave Inc. posted:So I'm looking at some E30s, and I just got back from test driving a '94 325is with 230,000 miles. Here's what was crazy about it: Everything worked perfectly and the A/C was ice cold, I'm just stunned, it's perfect. Just as a reference point, I paid $1700 for my 93 325iS with 278k miles, but the motor and all other mechanical parts are fine (needed a $30 fan blade) and there's no rust on the car. The A/C is the only thing that doesn't work. I guess it depends on where you are in the country, but in my area (rural PA), it's not a bad price. I'd offer less if I were you because of the PS problem. In my mind, I can live without A/C, but not PS if the car came equipped with it.
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Aug 14, 2010 00:29
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Fermunky posted:Maybe here? Thanks. I checked out the link and didn't see anything listed outside of aftermarket headlamps  And we have a Cabrio S, so any info on that would be great. I thought I hears rumblings once of the top being recalled but only if the owner complained about something. I don't know what an AllData is, but I'm gonna google it. Thanks again for your patience...you guys know an intimidating fuckton about cars so I appreciate you tarding it down for me.
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Aug 14, 2010 00:31
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Just as a reference point, I paid $1700 for my 93 325iS with 278k miles, but the motor and all other mechanical parts are fine (needed a $30 fan blade) and there's no rust on the car. The A/C is the only thing that doesn't work. I guess it depends on where you are in the country, but in my area (rural PA), it's not a bad price. I'd offer less if I were you because of the PS problem. In my mind, I can live without A/C, but not PS if the car came equipped with it. Yeah, the P/S needs fixing, but what makes me worried is the engine--can't tell if the whirring is the engine or the P/S pump bearings, not familiar enough with P/S issues. Going to pass on it, checking out another car tomorrow.
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Aug 14, 2010 00:55
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Deceptor101 posted:RTABs and Diff bushings Buying the arms with pre-installed bushings isn't a terrible idea, especially if the place you buy from can install some more durable bushings (poly, delrin, etc.) instead of the stock rubber. If you send in your old RTAs as a core, I'm sure the prices would work out fairly nicely as opposed to something going terribly wrong if you did the bushings yourself with improvised tools, or even with the proper tools. If this is your only car, go this route if you can't afford downtime due to "unforeseen consequences". The diff should be a little easier to do, I think all you have to do is unbolt the driveshaft, halfshafts and the subframe/diff bolts. There's two bolts in the front and what looks like one in the rear, near the top. Dropping the exhaust is going to be a prerequisite. If you want to have fun and learn a lot, go buy some gloves, borrow a bearing/mount press/puller, and dig in. Total job looks like it's going to be like this: -Lift/support car -Remove rear exhaust -Remove wheels, calipers, sensors from rear trailing arms (ebrake on) -Remove brake disc (ebrake off first) -Remove wheel hub -Disconnect halfshafts from diff output flanges, remove from car (car in gear, mark relative positions) -Disconnect driveshaft from diff (support with wire, car in gear, mark relative positions) -Disconnect anything else connected to the diff, barring mounts (speed sensor, etc) -Unbolt diff mounts, remove diff -Unbolt trailing arms from wishbones and subframe, remove Assembly is reverse You're going to need a big socket for the wheel hub nut, puller/hammer-socket-method for the wheel bearing, circlip pliers, torque wrench, extensions, u-joints for your sockets, and a jack for the diff so you don't break your fingers catching it. One with a nice big flat jackpad. Parts needed: 33176751808 (Rear diff mount bushing) 33326770786 (Foremost RTAB) 33411130617 (Wheel Bearings) [Let's face it, you just don't put old bearings back in the trailing arm] Parts I would recommend replacing while you've got half the rear end out on the garage floor: 33326771828 (Lower Wishbone-RTAB mount bushing) 33326775551 (Upper Wishbone-RTAB ball joint) 33326770824 (Lower Wishbone mount bushing; must remove wishbones to replace 33321092247 (Upper Wishbone mount bushing; must remove wishbones to replace) You need to have a bushing press to replace the above 4 items if you don't buy complete trailing arms, and you will need a bushing press for the subframe-wishbone bushings anyway, unless you want to buy wishbones with bushings in them too. 33551094619 (Swaybar end links) 33551094550 (Swaybar-Chassis mount for 15MM Swaybar) 33551094551 (Swaybar-Chassis mount for 19MM Swaybar) You SHOULD use new locknuts on the mounting bolts, the bolts themselves should be okay, or you can reuse the old ones with a touch of blue threadlocker (not too much, these bolts are in awkward places, and I'm sure you don't want to go buy air tools). I got all this info from RealOEM.com. This needs to be bookmarked by every DIY BMW owner out there, FYI. Diagrams for all of the related areas you'll be working on are at these links, best viewed in this order: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_0839&hg=33&fg=30 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_0840&hg=33&fg=30 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_0842&hg=33&fg=45 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_1185&hg=33&fg=05 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_1189&hg=33&fg=25 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_0838&hg=33&fg=40 Edit: Wow, I didn't mean to go all out. Welp, take pictures when you take it apart and you can just post this as a full guide. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 00:56
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Sterndotstern posted:Words havelock posted:More Words Beach Bum posted:Awesome detailed words. So my head just lightly exploded. I'll definitely go for the easier route of pre-installed bushings and have my mechanic friend help me out with the whole process. It is my only car, so I'd like to have it done in a day. With the right amount of prep and knowledge, and someone to drive me to a parts store in an emergency I should be okay right? I don't see any mention of the diff seal, while I'm down there with everything apart I should do that too right? Ok I'm going to start looking at parts and prices and when I can do this. In the meantime, any CA-Bay Area guys who would love to help me through this in person? I think over the weekend I'm going to crawl under the car and stare at the parts, this will help me feel a lot less overwhelmed. Thanks for all the info guys, I really appreciate it.
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Aug 14, 2010 10:10
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Deceptor101 posted:So my head just lightly exploded. I'll definitely go for the easier route of pre-installed bushings and have my mechanic friend help me out with the whole process. It is my only car, so I'd like to have it done in a day. With the right amount of prep and knowledge, and someone to drive me to a parts store in an emergency I should be okay right? I don't see any mention of the diff seal, while I'm down there with everything apart I should do that too right? Just keep in mind that the pre-pressed stuff only works for the front bushings, not the rears. The rears you still have to press out and back in yourself. Good luck
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Aug 14, 2010 13:54
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