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Captain Invictus posted:Yeah. And it actually cost more total than if you bought everything individually. I seem to remember that deal being for half a chapter. I could be wrong. I also remember it said they'd throw in a couple of cans of primer, too.
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Aug 13, 2010 05:54
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I cannot cut straight rivets from this plasticard tube for the life of me. Half of them just fly off into the corners anyways... I'm using an exacto knife on a cutting board, and most of them come out diagonally. What am i doing wrong, other than shakyhands?
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Aug 13, 2010 06:34
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ANAmal.net posted:EDIT: Some guy on Dakka or B&C did the math on the Spear, it wasn't more expensive than buying the units individually, just the exact same price. You literally didn't save one cent buying that damned thing. At least the Battle Company was cheap enough that it worked out to like 6 free Rhinos or something. I did the same thing for that Deathwing box they came out with. You saved exactly zero dollars.
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Aug 13, 2010 06:45
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pw pw pw posted:I cannot cut straight rivets from this plasticard tube for the life of me. Half of them just fly off into the corners anyways... I'm using an exacto knife on a cutting board, and most of them come out diagonally. Cut them at an angle, not straight down. As for preventing them from flying off, cut inside a large plastic zip-loc bag. For example: code:
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Aug 13, 2010 06:46
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 Click here for the full 520x1144 image. I'm not really happy with the base, so I will mount him on a different one, I don't think it works for the model. Anyone see any issues that stand out? I've got some cleaning up to do on the cushion thingy, though I'm not sure if I want to paint the studs as gems. What do you guys think I should do about the base? I'm going to have FROOOOG cast me some resin ones, but I dunno.
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Aug 13, 2010 08:00
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On the topic of resin bases: Crime Fighting Hog, I just got a bit of green stuffing to do on these Nurgle bases before I can start casting them. I'll get some WIPs soon.
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Aug 13, 2010 08:24
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ANAmal.net posted:I thought about buying one, actually, since $450 for more Marines than I'd ever need is a pretty sweet deal (or that 10 pack of Leman Russes), but then I realized that I get bored painting squads of 5, so buying a hundred loving marines would be really stupid. I did that, split it with a friend, bought a few predator turrets and dreadnoughts, bam, army purchased.
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Aug 13, 2010 13:20
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MaliciousOnion posted:I seem to remember that deal being for half a chapter. I could be wrong. I also remember it said they'd throw in a couple of cans of primer, too. Nah, the original deal was for a whole chapter. I'll see if I can find it and take a picture.
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Aug 13, 2010 14:21
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Here you go! Five thousand bucks! Turns out you got the new Land Raiders, not the old ones. The list refused to focus or take a flash without glare so I had to cut up a couple images. 
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Aug 13, 2010 14:42
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Some dude in Warsaw who owns a gaming store painted the entire Blood Angels chapter on his way to work on some super-slow train that takes two hours each way IIRC. There was a big article on him finishing it in WD waaaay back when. A few friends of mine have Epic scale chapters, thanks to plastic Rhinos being everywhere and it being easy to do a company at a time. Mostly they just need Thunderhawks to finish them off, but some people used BFG ships to build the fleet too.ANAmal.net posted:EDIT: Some guy on Dakka or B&C did the math on the Spear, it wasn't more expensive than buying the units individually, just the exact same price. You literally didn't save one cent buying that damned thing. At least the Battle Company was cheap enough that it worked out to like 6 free Rhinos or something.
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Aug 13, 2010 15:02
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I love how they suggest getting your gaming group to pool your resources when in actuality you'd want to be splitting this between 20 gaming groups.
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Aug 13, 2010 15:13
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 Click here for the full 933x1260 image.  Click here for the full 687x1395 image.  Click here for the full 1152x1506 image. I think he's coming along aite. Question; Crystal Sword like the WD 362 but red, or a red blend to white? Any Criticism? Red Herring fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 15:52
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Sole.Sushi posted:On the topic of resin bases: Hell yeah
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Aug 13, 2010 18:16
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stabbington posted:Yeah, never really gave it a shot before. What I've been doing is a coal black basecoat that's allowed to dry, dropping some thinned (roughly whole milk-looking) meredius blue roughly where I want my highlights to be, then using a second (larger, clean), slightly damp brush to push/pull the paint around. A layer of badab black on top of that ties it all together and makes it look good. Out of curiosity, what brushes (brand and size) are you using for this?
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Aug 13, 2010 19:39
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Basecoat/blending: Tajmir Escoda Kolinsky #2 - big brush, large paint capacity, holds a decent point, nice and beefy for longer blends (using the length of the brush). Highlighting: Tajmir Escoda Kolinsky #1 - like its bigger brother, but I hate it. Paint is always forming a little ball at the tip, and it's worn out after maybe three months of use. Going to replace it with a Raphael or S7 next time I'm in Dick Blick.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:06
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stabbington posted:Basecoat/blending: Tajmir Escoda Kolinsky #2 - big brush, large paint capacity, holds a decent point, nice and beefy for longer blends (using the length of the brush). Okay, cool. I've been reading a few articles on two brush blending and they're all suggesting brushes in that size range. I'm already a huge fan of using brushes larger than the S7 miniatures that I have, so I might just plop down some dollars on one or two larger S7 (non-miniature) brushes. Thanks.  I happen to be taking my better half out to dinner tonight, and I swear it's a coincidence that we're going someplace that is 10 minutes away from the only Dick Blick store in the south east.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:36
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If you like big brushes, I highly recommend getting your hands on a Raphael 8404 or two - they have a great point like S7s, but the "belly" on them is enormous, letting them hold a ton of paint if needed.
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Aug 13, 2010 20:40
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I've got some lovely pictures of my converted battlewagon. It used to be a vw bus.   
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Aug 13, 2010 21:20
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The battlevolkvswagon looks rad as hell, man.
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Aug 13, 2010 21:21
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Thanks a lot! Think it looks like 14/12/10? That was my biggest concern.
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Aug 13, 2010 21:22
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pw pw pw posted:Thanks a lot! Oh yeah, easily. You planning on putting a deathrolla on it?
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Aug 13, 2010 21:27
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I'm working on a deff rolla for my GW wagon, actually. Still in the structural phase, so it's not all pretty yet. Then I was gonna toss the nob squad in there and put the shoota boyz in the VW. Doubtful I would add a deff rolla to the shooty wagon, though. It wasn't really planned for in the design. (originally I used it as a looted wagon, but I couldn't stand it spending all its time sitting in a box so I bulked it up.) Looking at it now, it kinda looks like a dung beetle. Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 13, 2010 |
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Aug 13, 2010 21:31
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God dammit I finally found the perfect miniature to base my Minotaur Warden conversion off but its by Ilyad Games and they've been out of business for like 3 years. 
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Aug 13, 2010 23:04
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Miles O'Brian posted:God dammit I finally found the perfect miniature to base my Minotaur Warden conversion off but its by Ilyad Games and they've been out of business for like 3 years. Hit up Bartertown, some one might have it.
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Aug 14, 2010 00:44
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stabbington posted:If you like big brushes, I highly recommend getting your hands on a Raphael 8404 or two - they have a great point like S7s, but the "belly" on them is enormous, letting them hold a ton of paint if needed. Turns out brushes at the Blick Art Store are literally 100% more expensive than they are online. Oof. I looked for some Raphael 8404s, but didn't find any. Maybe I'll just take the plunge and order one online... So would you suggest a #2 and #3 for sizes? Or could I get away with using a cheaper synthetic for the damp brush when I'm feathering out the paint layer? ... This is all absurd for me to consider, but for some reason I really want to try this technique out.
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Aug 14, 2010 01:59
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The Raphaels are really quite large. A #1 is roughly equivalent to an S7 #2, a #2 is about the same size as an S7 #3, etc. I'd probably end up with a #1 and a #2, maybe a #0. Honestly, though, you don't really need anything special in terms of brushes. Just give it a shot with what you've already got on hand. One of PP's studio guys explains it quite coherently here with further information here - it's honestly one of the easier ways to get good, quick highlights, and sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is.
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Aug 14, 2010 02:29
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Finished my Deathwatch Kill-team. Pretty good for a beginner I'd like to think.   Just check out this post in the 40k RPG thread if you care to see individual pics. 
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Aug 14, 2010 03:50
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Skarsnik posted:Not sure what it is about marine eye lenses it is you do, but it looks the loving nuts. I can never get em looking that good He makes sure there's black around he lenses and is aggressive with his highlights. You have to do that if you want lenses to look good, they're too small to be subtle.
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Aug 14, 2010 04:19
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enri posted:Does anyone else have the "I want a completely painted army BUT if I spend that much time trying to make it look good then I'll never have a completely painted army" dilemma? I've begun to compromise in recent years (whereas before I would never be happy with less than my own level of 'perfect') and gone for "eh gently caress it, as long as they've got paint on them and it all looks vaguely coherent" but I hate myself for it and want to paint stuff that looks pure awesome and have an army of models painted to pure awesome standards
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Aug 14, 2010 04:27
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stabbington posted:The Raphaels are really quite large. A #1 is roughly equivalent to an S7 #2, a #2 is about the same size as an S7 #3, etc. I'd probably end up with a #1 and a #2, maybe a #0. The Ask the Studio posts and a tutorial over on Massive Voodoo are what motivated me to give it a shot. I realize there's no magic brush for the technique, but I've been itching to get a quality large brush ever since I wound up using a cheapo one for most of my painting on the last models I did. If I could have something that has the quality and point holding of my tiny W&N Miniatures along with a large reservoir to hold the paint and the ability to lay down a lot of paint at once for quicker basecoating, I'd be a happy man. PS: Massive Voodoo has a ton of awesome articles. http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/10/tutorial-overview.html Aranan fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 05:51
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I think series 7 size 1 or 2 would do it. non-miniature
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Aug 14, 2010 16:09
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I own both the miniture and the non miniture W&N brushes and I prefer the non mini ones by a long shot. The miniture ones don't hold enough paint for my liking and are almost to small to be useful. Granted teh smalled brush I use is a 0, and even then that only gets used when I am doing tiny detail work. Edit: Get a 0,1, and a 2 in the non miniture and you will be set.
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Aug 14, 2010 20:45
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What would you guess is the numbered equivalent of a Citadel Fine Detail Brush?
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Aug 15, 2010 03:05
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Crime Fighting Hog and Beffah: My first of hopefully many theme bases: Toxic Wastes. Here are some close-ups of the bases individually.      As it stands, they still look like this, so I can still change and/or add to them still. Comments/Criticism from anyone is welcome.
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Aug 15, 2010 03:06
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Looking good man! The shininess is from a gloss? Is the overall surface going to have smooth "gloopy toxin" areas?
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Aug 15, 2010 03:10
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PaintVagrant posted:Looking good man! The shininess is from a gloss? Is the overall surface going to have smooth "gloopy toxin" areas? Clear nail polish, actually. I wanted it to have a smoothness when cast for the reason you mentioned, and the thickness of the polish will help to fill in some of the deeper cracks that won't cast well at all. However, there will still be plenty of sharp detail, specifically the bits of metal and the cork. VVVVV They look more like giant maggots and mutant tentacles in person, trust me. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 03:14
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Assault On Cat Retch
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Aug 15, 2010 03:16
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I can't see the pictures while I'm at work, but I imagine they're awesome
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Aug 15, 2010 03:38
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Hot drat, I'm taking a painting masterclass with Mathieu Fontaine and I've been doing everything wrong this entire time, I'm learning a ton, but then again I am not as well versed as some of the painters up here. Either way I spent 12 hours painting and learning today, and I am spending 9 tomorrow. I can't wait to apply this to the minis I'm working on at home!
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Aug 15, 2010 04:19
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What's a good color to highlight black with? I was thinking somebody had said something about a vallejo color that works well (really dark grey) but I can't remember. I was thinking about just mixing chaos black + a small amount of adeptus battlegrey but if I can do it without having to mix paints I'd rather not (I am lazy hams).
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Aug 15, 2010 05:12
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