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MrOnBicycle posted:Does anyone have any good tips on rusty nut removal? Can't for the life of me get the nuts to loosen on my end exhaust bit. This is why exhaust shops use the Blue Wrench.
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Aug 29, 2010 01:48
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Prelude Gundam posted:Overall, this benefits the average person by saving just a little bit of fuel (as you were asking) and being able to use the engine as a brake when going downhill.
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Aug 29, 2010 05:07
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Prelude Gundam posted:If it's an automatic, you should still be able to select an alternate "D" mode such as D2 or D3, which will usually limit the amount of gears it will be able to select. At this point I thought you were kind of eccentric. Prelude Gundam posted:One trick I have used to exploit this is to turn on the air conditioning when in lower gear going downhill and I need just a little more resistance without having to select an even lower gear. Doing this will use the air compressor as a brake for the wheels (also free air conditioning!) Otherwise you'll just be using your car's kinetic energy to heat up your brakes. And here's where you became completely insane. Unless you're traversing mountain ranges and going downhill for hours, your brakes are up to stopping your car. If you're boiling DOT4 under normal driving circumstances, your brake fluid needs to be changed. If you ARE going up and down mountains, pop your car into D2 to avoid popping in and out of OD, especially if you're towing or packed full, but otherwise just let an auto be automatic and quit worrying about it.
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Aug 29, 2010 05:39
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eddiewalker posted:At this point I thought you were kind of eccentric. Actually the A/C trick is flawed. When you poke the A/C button it adjusts the IACV or a dedicated bypass valve and adds x fuel to whatever is already in the map (where x is how much it takes to run the A/C based on engineering testing, so as to eliminate the need to press harder/lighten up on the pedal every time the compressor cycles on/off.) even if current fuel map is zero, its zero plus x with the A/C on. Then there's the fact that the manifold vacuum goes down too due to IACV/bypass being nudged open. I put the A/C on during downhills simply because I must turn it off to climb the damned hill in the first place and its usually pretty warm by the time I'm at the top...
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Aug 29, 2010 13:08
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Prelude Gundam posted:
I don't want to be captian bring down, it was a very concise, detailed explanation, but isn't this a throwback to the days when cars had lovely 4 wheel drum brakes and/or lovely pad material that would overheat at the drop of a hat? With modern brake design, pad material, and fluids, isn't this pretty much not the case any more? Not saying you should ride the brakes every time you go down a hill or anything. I'm not talking poo poo, but rather asking because I don't know for sure.
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Aug 29, 2010 17:59
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Sponge! posted:Actually the A/C trick is flawed. When you poke the A/C button it adjusts the IACV or a dedicated bypass valve and adds x fuel to whatever is already in the map (where x is how much it takes to run the A/C based on engineering testing, so as to eliminate the need to press harder/lighten up on the pedal every time the compressor cycles on/off.) even if current fuel map is zero, its zero plus x with the A/C on. Then there's the fact that the manifold vacuum goes down too due to IACV/bypass being nudged open. I put the A/C on during downhills simply because I must turn it off to climb the damned hill in the first place and its usually pretty warm by the time I'm at the top... Maybe for nice cars, but I doubt that all manufacturers do this for every car they make. My Integra certainly doesn't behave this intelligently; idle RPM drops with AC on, you can feel the extra drag on the engine that the ECU doesn't accomodate when you are crusing at low speeds, etc.
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Aug 29, 2010 18:06
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Help! So, the stock radio in my 91 Eclipse doesn't work, so I figured it was just broken from being so old. I bought the wiring harnesses and hooked up my Alpine deck. It won't power on either! Everything is connected properly, including the ground wire. Any ideas? My first thought is a fuse? EDIT: Nevermind, it was the fuse. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Aug 29, 2010 |
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Aug 29, 2010 18:40
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Any advice for an exhaust on an 04 350z? Just picked it up last week and have looked pretty thoroughly at all reasonable options. The invidia n1 350z exhaust is cheap and sounds pretty good except everyone in the entire world complains that it is WAY too loud. I probably wouldn't even be able to pass inspection with it. I've decided against going for this. The magnaflow 350z exhaust runs about $700ish and sounds alright but I don't really like the raspy weed wacker sound. The other two I've looked at are the borla exhaust (~$1100) and the nismo exhaust (~$950). They both sound pretty good... hard to tell which sounds better from just watching youtube videos. Everyone I've spoken to has told me to just go based on price and sound because the difference in horsepower won't really matter for my purposes. Any advice? Also, should I be planning on putting some of my budget toward something else other than just the exhaust itself (headers, etc?)
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Aug 29, 2010 18:40
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I'm thinking of buying a Hyundai Coupe SIII 2007 with 30k miles on the clock (think they are called Tuscani's or some other stupid poo poo in America) This will be my first Hyundai and most info I have found on the net seems to indicate they are very reliable cars, but I'm struggling to find unbiased info about this particular model. Question is: is there anything specific I should be looking for which may be a common problem/concern with second hand cars of this make and model before I buy?
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Aug 29, 2010 19:16
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I posted this problem quite a few pages back and didn't get an answer. I have a 99 Galant GTZ with a radiator leak. The top plastic part has a hairline crack that I tried to "Perma-poxy". It lasted about a week, I tried it twice going for broke on application the second time around. My dad called a local autoparts store and they priced my radiator at $270. Yikes. I've found radiators on eBay for $30 and on a "radiator warehouse" kind of site for $100. Do you guys have a go-to place for radiators? I really don't think I need to be spending $300 on a radiator
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Aug 29, 2010 19:19
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Rock Auto has them for around $80-90 depending on your engine. Fast, cheap shipping, too.
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Aug 29, 2010 19:29
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Also radiatorbarn, however silly of a name, is a good proven one too.
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Aug 29, 2010 19:39
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thelightguy posted:Rock Auto has them for around $80-90 depending on your engine. Fast, cheap shipping, too. $94 shipped, awesome thanks!
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Aug 29, 2010 19:43
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Blinky2099 posted:The invidia n1 350z exhaust is cheap and sounds pretty good except everyone in the entire world complains that it is WAY too loud. I probably wouldn't even be able to pass inspection with it. I've decided against going for this. What about installing a silencer at the tips? I had an exhaust that was too loud and now it's great with the silencer.
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Aug 29, 2010 20:16
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What size engines can fit into a 1928 Ford Model A?
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Aug 29, 2010 20:16
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kimbo305 posted:What about installing a silencer at the tips? I had an exhaust that was too loud and now it's great with the silencer. I was considering this. Would installing silencers be reasonably cheap? Is there a way for me to make sure I can pass inspection with the silencers installed before going out and buying everything?
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Aug 29, 2010 20:41
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My friend just bought a 1997 Civic hatchback. I noticed that the engine valve cover gasket was leakly very, very slightly on one corner. Very slightly. The P.O. had the timing belt replaced a while ago, and from reading the receipt paper for it, it only mentioned the belt being replaced (for $170), with no valve cover gasket replacement. My friend is moving to New Mexico from New York soon, and I told him that it was best to replace the gasket. I'd be doing it for him. I already have experience with replacing an engine valve cover gasket on my Kawasaki Ninja 250. I assume it's equally easy on this engine, ja? Anything to keep an eye out for?
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Aug 29, 2010 21:06
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What happens to a manual transmission car if you lock the wheels with the clutch engaged? Does it stall the car and keep the wheels locked since the engine is dead? What about in ABS situations? I usually put the clutch in for panic braking, but I imagine this could be an issue on snow or ice.
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Aug 30, 2010 01:35
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My Spirit Otter posted:What size engines can fit into a 1928 Ford Model A? All of them.
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Aug 30, 2010 01:39
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A while back in AI there was a thread that had some really good starter info for car audio, one of the links in there was to a site that had some really good step by step info for taking out speakers and radios for different vehicles. Any one still have this? All my google searches come up are with some really poorly written faqs.
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Aug 30, 2010 01:59
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Darth Freddy posted:A while back in AI there was a thread that had some really good starter info for car audio, one of the links in there was to a site that had some really good step by step info for taking out speakers and radios for different vehicles. Any one still have this? All my google searches come up are with some really poorly written faqs. this thread? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3335600
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Aug 30, 2010 02:01
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teh jhey posted:What happens to a manual transmission car if you lock the wheels with the clutch engaged? Does it stall the car and keep the wheels locked since the engine is dead? What about in ABS situations? If you only lock up one wheel, the differential will keep the engine from locking up. The gear stuff starts at about 3:30. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4JhruinbWc
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Aug 30, 2010 03:23
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teh jhey posted:What happens to a manual transmission car if you lock the wheels with the clutch engaged? Does it stall the car and keep the wheels locked since the engine is dead? What about in ABS situations? I was impressed at his ability to simultaneously hold the slide around the corner and re-start the engine. This only happened on the one corner, and it was definately the most highly-polished and tightest corner on the lake that day. For comparison, I stuffed it in the snowbank when I tried that corner at 20 km/h, but made it around (very delicately) at 15. Ice-rally-cross is too much fun. I don't have ABS so I have no idea how that might change the situation. But on slippery, slippery ice you can certainly stall your engine with your brakes without stopping the car. From a safety point of view, I'd be very not-worried about stalling my engine in a panic stop situation. You can still steer a car with a dead engine, and the brakes still work, if it takes slightly more force from your leg to get the same clamping down on your rotors.
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Aug 30, 2010 03:55
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Anyone have a suggestion on who to use for windshield replacement? I had my Focus' windshield replaced last summer by Safelite and I wasn't too happy with the glass quality (it was wavy if you looked through it sideways) and now that I need to replace it again I'd like to do it right.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:07
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Geoj posted:Anyone have a suggestion on who to use for windshield replacement? I had my Focus' windshield replaced last summer by Safelite and I wasn't too happy with the glass quality (it was wavy if you looked through it sideways) and now that I need to replace it again I'd like to do it right. Did you call them about the glass? I've had a few done, and have always gotten OE glass from Safelite with the same factory tint strips, premounted rearview mirror clips, etc.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:09
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eddiewalker posted:Did you call them about the glass? I've had a few done, and have always gotten OE glass from Safelite with the same factory tint strips, premounted rearview mirror clips, etc. I just figured that's the way it came from them. Its a bit late now, I hit a deer last November and between the airbags deploying (passenger airbag on the dashboard) and the hood flying back its spider-webbed to poo poo.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:20
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So, I just installed my Alpine deck today and I have a half DIN slot left over. I'm not running aftermarket speakers or an amp, so getting an equalizer would be pointless. What else could I fit in that space? I was thinking maybe a white LED strip with a switch for extra light in the car if I need it. Any ideas?
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Aug 30, 2010 04:38
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Blinky2099 posted:I was considering this. Would installing silencers be reasonably cheap? Is there a way for me to make sure I can pass inspection with the silencers installed before going out and buying everything? Depends on the state's rules and the inspectors, I guess. I dunno how much a custom exhaust shop would charge for making a silencer. Mine was like $30 but made by the manufacturer. It passed inspection even though it was obvious you can uninstall it easily.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:38
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So, I just installed my Alpine deck today and I have a half DIN slot left over. I'm not running aftermarket speakers or an amp, so getting an equalizer would be pointless. What else could I fit in that space? I was thinking maybe a white LED strip with a switch for extra light in the car if I need it. Any ideas? Most of those mounting kits usually include a pocket to fill the space - I just put a single DIN alpine unit in my Altima (double DIN opening) and the mounting kit has a pocket below the stereo. Since my new deck has an aux in, I just keep my Zune in the pocket while driving (obviously taking the Zune and the faceplate with me whenever I park). Maybe look for another mount kit with a pocket? Metra typically makes a good mounting kit, that's what I used for mine. I assume it's just an open space behind the knock out, right? Also, is that an Eclipse? (just guessing by the placement of the climate control) Now to contribute with my own question - my 99 Altima, with 134k miles, has the KA24DE 2.4 DOHC, 5 speed manual. Today was the first time I've done a cold start with the windows down (now that I got the windows working). It fired right up, but the valves were very noisy for a few seconds. Both the oil and alternator lights shut off after 1-2 revolutions while cranking, but before it fires... so it has at least some oil pressure by the time it fires up. Does this engine need regular valve adjustments? I'm guessing the valve cover has never been off, since the valve cover gasket has a small leak and it has the original PCV valve. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Aug 30, 2010 |
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Aug 30, 2010 04:48
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some texas redneck posted:original PCV valve. I can't answer the rest of your question but that PCV valve is toast with that many miles.
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Aug 30, 2010 05:09
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So, I just installed my Alpine deck today and I have a half DIN slot left over. I'm not running aftermarket speakers or an amp, so getting an equalizer would be pointless. What else could I fit in that space? I was thinking maybe a white LED strip with a switch for extra light in the car if I need it. Any ideas? Depends on how serious a car it is, I suppose. What are we looking at, here?
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Aug 30, 2010 05:18
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some texas redneck posted:Most of those mounting kits usually include a pocket to fill the space - I just put a single DIN alpine unit in my Altima (double DIN opening) and the mounting kit has a pocket below the stereo. Since my new deck has an aux in, I just keep my Zune in the pocket while driving (obviously taking the Zune and the faceplate with me whenever I park). The dash kit I bought didn't come with a pocket for some reason. My Alpine head unit has a USB connection in the back, which I ran to the glove-box where my thumb drive plugs in. And yeah, it's a 1991 Eclipse GS-T. ExecuDork posted:The white LED is probably a much better idea, but for fun why not put in half a dozen toggle switches, connected to nothing, with labels like "passenger ejection seat" and "flux capacitor". As hilarious as that is, I don't think I could drive around with that. It would be amazing if they sold some sort of 1/2 DIN LED strip.
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Aug 30, 2010 05:22
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eddiewalker posted:At this point I thought you were kind of eccentric. I just want to say that I live in rural Georgia and I have seen multiple people with their brakes on fire at the bottom of (quite small) mountains. And people DO hold their brakes down for miles at a time.
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Aug 30, 2010 05:38
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It was most obvious with the hilarious A/C button on those things.
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Aug 30, 2010 05:38
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Maker Of Shoes posted:I can't answer the rest of your question but that PCV valve is toast with that many miles. I know, I've already picked up a new one. I've also been trying to track down a fuel filter and cabin filter... it's been a complete bitch. I went to 6 Autozones, 1 Napa, and 1 Oreilly before finally finding the PCV valve at an Autozone. The last Autozone had a shelf tag for the fuel filter I needed, but it had an oil filter in its place. Of course, I don't even know where the drat filter is to begin with, but I'm 99% sure the previous 2 owners didn't do much for maintenance. Also need a valve cover gasket kit, which is proving difficult to find. I figure the PCV valve is the most important out of everything I've been looking for though. I just hope it doesn't snap off when I try to remove the original. It does turn out that a local dealer - Courtesy Nissan - has some drat good prices on OEM parts, about half of the time cheaper or equal to third party parts. $2 OEM NGK spark plugs, for example. I'm probably going to have Courtesy order a valve cover gasket kit (with spark plug tube grommets), plugs, distributor cap, and rotor. I know the wires are recent-ish, at least they're definitely not original, but they look like cheap lovely wires. Along with a fuel filter and cabin filter. Even a drat air filter is mildly difficult to find at Autozone, but I was able to find a master power window switch at Autozone with no problem, go figure.
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Aug 30, 2010 06:19
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cupachabra posted:I'm thinking of buying a Hyundai Coupe SIII 2007 with 30k miles on the clock (think they are called Tuscani's or some other stupid poo poo in America) I don't have any real information to give you other than it's called the "Tiburon" in the US. The Tuscon is a big crossover.
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Aug 30, 2010 08:54
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Any other advice on this?Blinky2099 posted:Any advice for an exhaust on an 04 350z? Just picked up the Z last week and have looked pretty thoroughly at all reasonable options.
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Aug 30, 2010 12:48
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Blinky2099 posted:Any other advice on this? Actually yes, there is a company that makes an exhaust for your car that sounds absolutely amazing, but I can't remember the info off the top of my head. I have it at home, however, and once I get off work I'll come back in here and let you know what the company is as well as link to some youtube videos.
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Aug 30, 2010 13:39
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Sigma X posted:Actually yes, there is a company that makes an exhaust for your car that sounds absolutely amazing, but I can't remember the info off the top of my head. I have it at home, however, and once I get off work I'll come back in here and let you know what the company is as well as link to some youtube videos.
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Aug 30, 2010 14:20
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I have a 2009 Infiniti G37 coupe and a god drat boulder of a rock nailed the windshield and gouged it. The gouge is about 3/4" long and 1/4" wide, no cracks. I called up the dealership and asked what the repair cost would be (I assumed they would just repair the gouge with epoxy) and they told me I should replace it, to the tune of about $1000. So obviously I'm thinking they're being dickheads about it and just want some of my sweet, sweet $$$, and I see what safelite costs, and they quoted me about $150. I've been out of the autos thing for a while and I don't want to do something stupid here. Is there ANY reason why a modern windshield would need to be replaced vs. just repairing it?
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Aug 30, 2010 14:21
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