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Cross-posting is kind of a pain, but it only really bothers me if someone is copy-pasting the same post across all the threads. I certainly understand wanting to share your accomplishment widely, but it helps if people think to play it to the audience. I mean if I am going to post my oath stuff in here, I will take the time to maybe evaluate how I did, what I tried, point out anything I am not happy with and ask for help with it, you know, painting-focused stuff. Or don't, whatever, its not like its that hard for me to punch 'page down'!
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Aug 31, 2010 01:04
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Korwen posted:So I'm considering painting my Legion battlebox like this Thats probably pretty close. Keep in mind cyg blue base is very, very transparent and it takes a shitload of coats to cover.
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Aug 31, 2010 01:09
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Korwen posted:So I'm considering painting my Legion battlebox like this I'd probably take it further than the guy in the link does with the warmer shading - getting a bit more purple in there as a shade would probably look real good.
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Aug 31, 2010 02:06
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I was thinking about getting into painting some miniatures for D&D but I have not a clue where to begin. I looked through the pewter fantasy miniatures at my local gaming shop but most of them are very specific and wouldn't fit our game very well, I guess I'm hoping for some generic monsters to start off with like orcs, dwarves, etc. and perhaps some furniture and props to practice on. Are there any good online resources for fantasy/D&D mini's that won't break the bank? Also any very starter tutorials and a way I could start simple with a handful of paints without having to buy a full set? I was thinking barrels, chairs, tables, etc. would let me just work with brown/black/silver to get familiar at first. Any advice appreciated, thanks.
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Aug 31, 2010 19:55
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MMD3 posted:I was thinking about getting into painting some miniatures for D&D but I have not a clue where to begin. I looked through the pewter fantasy miniatures at my local gaming shop but most of them are very specific and wouldn't fit our game very well, I guess I'm hoping for some generic monsters to start off with like orcs, dwarves, etc. and perhaps some furniture and props to practice on. Reaper Miniatures
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Aug 31, 2010 19:58
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If you go back through my post history in this thread, you should be able to find the resources people posted for me when I asked this same question for the same purpose a few months ago. I just have to post so I can do so myself! Start here to see all the responses, but I found Miniatures 101 and Miniatures 102 to be the most helpful. Good luck! Klungar fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 20:04
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Klungar posted:If you go back through my post history in this thread, you should be able to find the resources people posted for me when I asked this same question for the same purpose a few months ago. I just have to post so I can do so myself! awesome, thanks, I'll start there. I'm liking the Reaper characters a lot but it doesn't look like they have any props/furniture type stuff.
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Aug 31, 2010 20:17
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Any recommended websites for buying wh40k bits from? I want to get the DA Robed bodies and heads for converting some Deathguard Chosen, but I don't want to have to buy a whole box. I usually use Hoard-O-Bits store on Ebay but I want to see what else is out there
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Aug 31, 2010 20:23
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MMD3 posted:awesome, thanks, I'll start there. Buy a Hero Quest set. edit: As a bonus, it's actually a really fun game. I probably wouldn't be playing warhammer today if I weren't primed for it with Hero Quest as a kid. Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 20:24
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Dr. Lenin posted:Any recommended websites for buying wh40k bits from? I want to get the DA Robed bodies and heads for converting some Deathguard Chosen, but I don't want to have to buy a whole box. The Warstore is usually pretty good if you're looking for obscure bits. For example, a single Combi-melta can cost you $5, but you can get 10 IG water tins and knife kits for a buck.
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Aug 31, 2010 20:27
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If you want bodies, you should just buy the actual kit and then sell the stuff you don't need. Legs especially are expensive bits, I have to imagine that many robed bodies are gonna cost you almost as much as the actual kit would.
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Aug 31, 2010 20:29
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Dr. Lenin posted:Any recommended websites for buying wh40k bits from? I want to get the DA Robed bodies and heads for converting some Deathguard Chosen, but I don't want to have to buy a whole box. I don't like Hoard Bits because every time I search for ANYTHING Warhammer related, especially 40k, there's always a million results of their stuff to dig through for others.
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Aug 31, 2010 22:18
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Dr. Lenin posted:Any recommended websites for buying wh40k bits from? I want to get the DA Robed bodies and heads for converting some Deathguard Chosen, but I don't want to have to buy a whole box. Don't bother buying bits, just go to the GW online store and buy the DA upgrade set (not the veteran 'set'.. they're two different things all together, veteran set = 1 DA sprue + 1 command sprue, DA upgrade set = 2 DA sprues) It's a steal at £12.. unless they raised the price recently and I just haven't checked recently. One way or the other, ask Fix, he went bananas with the robed guys. edit: like someone else said, you'll end up spending more on bits than you would in buying the box set itself. here ya go: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1400016&prodId=prod1060242 It's not blatantly apparent that it's such a bargain but then when have GW ever advertised a total bargain? They don't want us grubby nerds getting our mitts on something that's actually worth something. On the plus side, you'll have a shed load of spare bits left over to then stick on ebay for some overly eager DA fanboy to pick up (I'll have 'em off you for £5 posted..  )
enri fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 22:49
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I have a shitload of leftover DA stuff from a Ravenwing box. It's yours if you want to pay for shipping, Enri. Unfortunately it would come from the US.
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Aug 31, 2010 23:00
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Fyrbrand posted:I have a shitload of leftover DA stuff from a Ravenwing box. It's yours if you want to pay for shipping, Enri. Unfortunately it would come from the US. Thanks for the offer, unfortunately I'm already snowed under with ravenwing bits thanks to a trade with cakefool I did last year  thanks though  edit: on a completely unrelated note, I've been using the vallejo game inks for ages, completely oblivious to the fact that they also have a range of washes. Has anyone used them? I've been using the inks as washes and diluting them quite heavily (with the obligatory dash of washing up liquid) to get them to do my bidding but wondered if anyone had experience using the washes specifically. enri fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Aug 31, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 23:09
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MMD3 posted:awesome, thanks, I'll start there. I like megaminiatures for props. http://www.megaminis.com/ I've purchased from them before, and I liked my minis. 
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Aug 31, 2010 23:47
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Speaking of cross-posting goodness: This was my first time painting miniatures. I think I did fairly ok. There's still a lot of touch up I could do on them and a detail or two to add, but I'm pretty happy with them. PV - your ballast mix is awesome! Super stoked how well the bases turned out (and I haven't even painted over it yet  )
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Sep 1, 2010 01:00
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Wow man, really nice for your first models!
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Sep 1, 2010 01:24
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Finished this harby, holy poo poo what a crazy model.       
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Sep 1, 2010 01:46
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Dem pauldrons 
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Sep 1, 2010 01:47
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That's a kickass model, PV. Nice job. Is that a Warmachine model?
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Sep 1, 2010 01:52
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Yeah its a warcaster for the Menoth faction. Pretty rad model, evil bitch to assemble and paint tho, as you could probably guess by looking at it
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Sep 1, 2010 01:58
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Prefect Six posted:Speaking of cross-posting goodness: PaintVagrant posted:harby stuff
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Sep 1, 2010 02:21
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah its a warcaster for the Menoth faction. Pretty rad model, evil bitch to assemble and paint tho, as you could probably guess by looking at it She meleed my Asphyxious to death once.  I severely underestimated 10 focus and the ability to automatically hit...
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Sep 1, 2010 04:15
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Shes basically a holy hot air balloon that floats around hurling magic death on everyone
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Sep 1, 2010 04:19
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any recommendations on a good hobby drill that can hold a 1/8" bit? I was doing fine with my small bits and a knife when fitting magnets into plastic, but some of my metal parts are going to be real bitches without a better drill (using the GW one currently)
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Sep 1, 2010 04:46
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stabbington posted:Great job on those, most people's first minis aren't nearly that smooth. Thanks! Anyone have any C&C? I'm deathly afraid of highlight as I still don't really know what the gently caress I'm doing. I painted most of the details with the base coat brush I have because I couldn't get enough paint on the tiny tips of the detail brushes to do anything. I think I need to cut the stray one or two bristles that stick out past the rest of the 'tip' as it's throwing me off.
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Sep 1, 2010 04:55
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Dr. Lenin posted:any recommendations on a good hobby drill that can hold a 1/8" bit? I was doing fine with my small bits and a knife when fitting magnets into plastic, but some of my metal parts are going to be real bitches without a better drill (using the GW one currently) The GW drill holds a 1/8" fine if you take the chuck out and flip it around. You have to squeeze it in a tiny bit, but at least you aren't ruining the chuck for smaller bits. If you're doing a lot of metal drilling with a 1/8, use a Dremel, and don't forget to first drill guide holes with something smaller or you are going to slip off that bastard and go right into your finger.
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Sep 1, 2010 05:07
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Okay, crossposting (sorry!) my Ripjaws from the WM/H oath thread. I'm really proud of how the water turned out, especially with how drat easy it was to do. 1) Basecoat the bare base with Cryx Bane Base (green-grey that is the main color of the armor of the Ripjaws--I figured this would help tie in the base with the model) 2) Swirl in some Gnarls Green when the CXB is still a bit wet. 3) Stipple Iosan Green. 4) Apply a fairly thick coat of VGC Gloss Varnish and immediately swirl in a little bit of P3 Green Ink. 5) Be happy that you didn't have to melt tiny beads or pour a two part mixture for water effects. Prefect Six posted:I'm deathly afraid of highlight as I still don't really know what the gently caress I'm doing. With regards to my ripjaws, where the heck would the highlight go for the bronze grill over the head? The spikes on the "neck" area? The smokestacks? I kind of guessed on the armored shoulder plates and I feel like it mostly worked. I would up being a little sloppy with the leg armor highlights, but I think that's where they go.
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Sep 1, 2010 05:20
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Fix posted:The GW drill holds a 1/8" fine if you take the chuck out and flip it around. You have to squeeze it in a tiny bit, but at least you aren't ruining the chuck for smaller bits. I didn't think that side would hold one, it always looked too small to me. Thanks! It's not a lot of metal drilling, just 2 champions. I don't think I can justify the cost of a dremel for just 2 dudes. On a side note, I found a bunch of Guardsman special weapons, and I have a need for some flamers for my Deathguard on the cheap. Hopefully a few cuts here and there will make them both functional AND pretty!
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Sep 1, 2010 05:27
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Crossposting these. If you don't like it, paint some tiny men in costumes. The fire warriors were pretty  but I think the scouts turned out pretty well.  
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Sep 1, 2010 07:25
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I'm in the process of building a plague claw catapult and would like some feedback. Its based on a Couldron of 1000 poxes which is based on the old 5th ed screaming bell carriage and a DE couldron of blood.  Made the arm from bits of 40k vehicles before I got my hands on the balsa wood  With the couldron from the new screaming bell  The old couldron. It looks bigger and more bad rear end, but it weighs a ton compared to the plastic and the balsa wood, so it probably won't hold very long. I might stick this on my screaming bell instead.  I'm going to add more screws and metal plates and such on the balsa wood, kind of like on the new screaming bell carriage. Need to find a good way to make nails/rivets as well. I haven't found a suitable counter-weight yet and the release mechanism is going to be maybe chains or thread if I can get some to look like rope instead of thread. Any ideas or comments? This is my first time using balsa wood and plastic card, so even basic advice would be welcomed.
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Sep 1, 2010 09:58
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Ikke en viking posted:Any ideas or comments? This is my first time using balsa wood and plastic card, so even basic advice would be welcomed. Nails: use staples. Paper staples, not carpentry staples. They make for good, old-world nails. Rivets you can get by either cutting down small polystyrene rod and gluing them on, or by using the rivet tool (which may be too late depending). Chain: Jeweler's chain, found at a local arts and crafts store would work wonderfully after you glue it in place. Rope: Baling Twine (the tweed kind, not the hemp kind) looks like tiny rope normally, so check out that stuff. It's also dirt cheap as a bonus, but will likely need some watered down wood glue to ensure it stays rigid at all times. Counterweight: on trebuchets that I've read about (the historical ones, anyways), the engineers would simply make a wooden-framed bucket and fill it with local rocks or slabs of lead. Sounds like it would be easy enough to make.
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Sep 1, 2010 10:21
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I doubt anyone here paid much attention to the Vyper I posted in the Oath thread a couple months back, but I wasn't really happy with it at the time. So in some of my spare time I went back and redid some of the paintjob, mostly trying to bring a little more color and visual interest to it:  Click here for the full 800x557 image.  Click here for the full 800x513 image. This guy will basically serve as the prototype from repainting all my Eldar grav vehicles, with similar colors and asymmetrical panel shading. So if you think it looks terrible or have any critiques, it would be nice to hear before I paint up a half-dozen tanks. As a note, there's some photographic weirdness going on in the picture of the right side, making it look like there is some whiteness or streaking on the blue panel. I have no idea what's up with that, it isn't on the actual model. Probably a result of my lovely fluorescent lighting and the exposure settings I used to compensate.
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Sep 1, 2010 13:31
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So, I've just finished some Glade Guard for the Oath thread. Questions after the crosspost.FROOOOOOOOG posted:Sliiiiding in under the door...
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Sep 1, 2010 14:14
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Ashcans posted:I doubt anyone here paid much attention to the Vyper I posted in the Oath thread a couple months back, but I wasn't really happy with it at the time. So in some of my spare time I went back and redid some of the paintjob, mostly trying to bring a little more color and visual interest to it: I like the ivory and turquoise, but the gold doesn't stand out from the ivory very much at all. If you want to stick with a metal look I'd use a darker metal like boltgun, or a dark grey if you want a ceramic look (which could make it look more high-tech). Also I wouldn't paint the panel grooves a different color, it tends to make it look more like a toy and less like a model. Paint schemes for Eldar are pretty subjective though. edit: just saw in the oath thread that you're already using gold, nevermind. Chenghiz fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 14:50
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Can anyone recommend a good bitz store? I have a couple bids on Hoard o Bits on ebay, and I guess their prices are reasonable (everything starts at $.99). And out of curiosity, are there any orks with COMPLETELY closed mouths? Or do they always have some teeth poking out?
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Sep 1, 2010 15:28
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So I made a cheap light box and re-shot all of my painted Warmachine models: Farrow:       Menoth:            
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Sep 1, 2010 16:00
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Alright. I basecoated my Eldar Rangers and am now working on a test model. So far his cloak has been painted in Bleached Bone and I am working on some camouflage of Snakebite Leather with a little bit of Fortress Grey. I'll probably wash it in Ogryn Flesh and hopefully I can post some pics tonight. So far it looks decent enough. I think I'm going to do the parts of his power armor that show through in Liche Purple and that leather will stay black. I don't know what color I'm doing for his rifle though... Any advice?
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Sep 1, 2010 20:39
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah its a warcaster for the Menoth faction. Pretty rad model, evil bitch to assemble and paint tho, as you could probably guess by looking at it How does it go together? I basically want this model from the waist down for a Sisters conversion.
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Sep 1, 2010 21:50
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