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 WHY CAN I NOT GET MY CRANKSHAFT PULLEY OFF???2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6, and I'm trying to do the timing belt. However, 10 solid minutes of the impact wrench and the nut on the crankshaft pulley still won't budge. I'm not sure I want to heat it up for fear of ruining the oil seal in there - any other ideas at all please pretty please?
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Sep 2, 2010 03:29
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Dramatika posted:Theoretically, if the cat was clogged, then would I be risking serious damage by not fixing it immediately? It's fine to drive, you're just causing  global warming .It's either your cat or one of your oxygen sensors.
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Sep 2, 2010 03:30
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
You have the crankshaft secured so that it won't turn, right?
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Sep 2, 2010 04:59
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EightBit posted:You have the crankshaft secured so that it won't turn, right? It's not turning at all.
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Sep 2, 2010 05:24
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Scratch removal & Painting question My wife got some deep scratches along one of the doors and I offered to take care of it- being a complete newbie at this stuff I am now regretting that offer. After some sanding I bondo'ed the grooves and then put some Duplicolor spray primer on it (2 layers) followed by 3 layers of paint. The work area (2" by 30") was surrounded by masking tape with only the damaged area exposed. I took a quick peek under the tape and noticed that you could now see a 2" by 30" rectangle poking out of the door. So I sanded it down again and started over- this time without any masking tape nearby. Same setup as before and everything looked alright until I got to the clear coat (again, Duplicolor spray can). Of course I focused the spray on the damaged area in the center but had overspray all around it. The center area that got some thick layers of clear coat now looks excellent- smooth & glossy. The overspray areas turned into something rough & textured. At my local parts store I did not see any decent polishing compound so I ended up getting this stuff: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1420160&CAWELAID=112288538 and rubbed it in. The end result: the glossy center area looks even glossier, and the oversprayed area looks duller. Any ideas how I can salvage this project ? For future reference: how can I avoid overspray without creating raised edges ?
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Sep 2, 2010 05:59
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I think the typical thing to do is either just touch up a scratch (which isn't perfect), or sand down and repaint the entire panel (which still won't perfectly match the rest of the car unless the rest of the car's paint is in perfect condition, but you can get pretty close). Not that I've tried doing this myself, but I've always understood it to be basically impossible to blend new paint with old paint on the same panel in a convincing way.
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Sep 2, 2010 09:07
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Prelude Gundam posted:Hmm.. that idling with your AC actually sounds like an issue. My idle will usually slightly rise if I turn it on. Is yours a ’93 or older? I used to have a 1991 Integra LS, 3 door hatch, auto transmission (ew), with the plain jane B18. A/C was blowing ice cold, and if it kicked on at idle, the idle immediately compensated. Idle would drop by about 100 rpm for a split second then go back up to about 700-750. Car was stock except for an AEM cold air intake (previous owner), Neuspeed strut brace (previous owner) and JDM headlamps (previous owner did the wiring, I installed them... goddamn do they light up the road so much better!). The IACV (idle air control valve) is a huge problem child on all B and D series engines. Sounds like his is acting up. When I had my teg, you couldn't get the IACV without buying the throttle body, but they're easy enough to rip off a junkyard engine. I THINK the GSR and the B20 CRV engines will have compatible IACVs, and I believe a Prelude throttle body will bolt on most B series engines if you want a slightly larger throttle body. For that matter, an H22 throttle body will even bolt onto an Accord F series engine. Prelude Gundam posted:+2 on replacing the PCV valve. I have PDFs of both the owners manuals and factory service manual. Both say that valve adjustment is not a normally scheduled maintenance procedure and should only be done if the valvetrain is noisy once warm. I've adjusted my share of valves on Hondas, but all you need there is a wrench, flathead screwdriver, and feeler gauges. gently caress this shim poo poo. I have no idea how old the oil was in it when I got it - it wasn't dark, but not clear, on the dipstick. I had it changed with Vavoline 5w30 (regular even though the service guy swore up and down my engine would literally explode if I didn't get their high mileage oil). It's still about the same color, maybe slightly lighter. Manual calls for 5w30. It does have some leaks - definitely front main seal and possibly oil pan gasket, so it's getting dinosaur juice as long as I own it. No visible smoke, oil level has not dropped at all even with me beating on it. It starts on the first try every time and I've only heard a rattle once, after it sat for about 18 hours - sounded like valve train noise and lasted under 2 seconds. Oddly... it's a fun car to drive. It's definitely a compact car, but it's got the KA24DE and a manual transmission, with good brakes. You throw it through turns and it goes "get me some better tires bitch!". And much better mileage than the Accord it replaced. Now the fun part will be finding some GL-4 80w90 for the gearbox. Someone (I think Sockington?) told me GL-5 would not be very good for it, and that's all I've been able to find locally. The gearbox works fine, doesn't ever grind or pop out of gear, but I doubt it's ever had the oil changed. I'm actually thinking it may be the original clutch since it chatters a bit in 1st (134k, purchased with 133k). The FSM specifically states GL-4. Now if I could just find a loving fuel filter. None of the stores I've been to stock it, same with the cabin filter. Courtesyparts.com (parts dept of a local nissan dealer, Courtesy Nissan) actually has very competitive prices if you ask for their internet prices though. I've already gotten several parts from them. OE spark plugs are under $2.50 there, vs $8 at Autozone.... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:33 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 10:56
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Piano posted:It's fine to drive, you're just causing Thanks. Anyways, I got rearended about three hours after posting that, so the car might be totalled, even if it's still drivable! So I might not be causing global warming for too long! 
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Sep 2, 2010 14:29
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Dramatika posted:Thanks. Anyways, I got rearended about three hours after posting that, so the car might be totalled, even if it's still drivable! So I might not be causing global warming for too long! If it gets totaled, make sure you get fair market value (what it would cost you to buy another in similar condition as yours was pre-accident) and don't get lowballed by the insurance company.
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Sep 2, 2010 15:04
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What does the # of cylinders in an engine do for you? What I mean is like, if you have a truck that really needs the power of 6 liters of displacement it's going to be a V8 (we're talking gasoline here) what if that truck came with a 6 liter 4 cylinder instead? what would the difference be in how it drives? more/less torque/hp? throttle response? torque come in at a different rpm? can it rev higher or not as high as the V8? mpg? engine lifetime? noise? old-people comfort factor? And vice-versa on a tiny car that does fine with a 2 liter four cyl, what if you gave it a 2 liter v8? edit: with everything else about the engine remaining the same basic tech, just adapted for the # of cylinders. if the v8 is pushrod, indirect-mpfi, wedge chambers, relieved pistons etc. the 4 cyl will be pushrod indirect-mpfi wedge chambers, relieved pistons etc Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 16:14
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Wagonburner posted:What does the # of cylinders in an engine do for you? The ultimate outcome of how an engine behaves has to take into account a number of variables such as bore and stroke ratios, engine configuration, fuel delivery, flywheel weight, size and amount of cylinders and a few other things. However, the larger the displacement of a single cylinder will generally result in a lower reving, higher torque engine. Whereas a small cylinder size will usually result in a higher reving, higher horsepower motor.
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Sep 2, 2010 16:30
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
If it is a manual you can put it in gear, have a friend hold the brakes and start throwing your weight onto a large johnson bar. Another trick is confirm which way the motor turns then set up your johnson bar against the ground and click the key over and try and use the starter motor to crack it free. Also, make sure your using a decent enough air tank and air hose to power your impact gun to its full impacting capabilities. Bocklebee fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 16:40
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Incidentally, I want to hear a 6 liter 4 cylinder. It'd idle like an executioners drum.
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Sep 2, 2010 16:41
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Ugh, please help me. I am so loving frustrated. Took my 2002 Ford Focus ZX3 to a mechanic for squealing when turning, excessive engine noise, and occasional shuddering. Despite dropping the car off right when they opened, they took 12 hours to give me a diagnosis. The diagnosis was bad engine mounts, rack & pinion, and outer tie rods. Made sense. But I was not happy with their service or the fact that they took so goddamn long- I get it, they're a no-appointment place, but we were clearly the first people in that day. Whatever, fine, I'll take it to another mechanic we've used before and whom I know will do the repairs in a reasonable amount of time. Turns out I can't, they never put the loving car back together and the guy who was working on it left. WTF? Are you kidding me?! After some bitching, they say for sure they can get the repairs done by the following afternoon. I tell them this has to be the case as I need the car that evening. They finally finish everything at 7:30pm the next day, well after their "afternoon" guarantee. Whatever, fine, I've got my car back. Except now it clunks loudly when shifting into second, pulses rhythmically when idling, and the steering wheel doesn't return to center after I make a turn. So I call them up this morning. They say these would be problems with the transmission and power steering and they didn't touch either of those. I point out that the pulsing and clunking could also be the engine mounts, and regardless, none of these issues existed before they put their hands on it. Did my transmission go bad just sitting in their garage? Come on. They tell me they can take it for a test drive with me, but the absolute soonest they can look at it is Sat. I'm supposed to leave tonight to visit my family 2 states away. poo poo, I'm supposed to drive there. So what now? I can take it to another mechanic who may fix whatever they hosed up, but then I'm paying for it. I can rent a car for the weekend and leave my car with the mechanics who worked on it, but then I'm paying for the rental and leaving my car in the hands of the people who likely hosed it up. What should/can I do here? Any thoughts as to why I'm now having these issues? Am I in the wrong, and my transmission and power steering actually failed on their own overnight? We've used this mechanic before without problems like this, so I really don't know what to do or think about spending $1000 on repairs only to get a worse-driving car.
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Sep 2, 2010 16:42
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Wagonburner posted:What does the # of cylinders in an engine do for you? Cylinder efficiency depends on a number of factors, but above a certain size they start to become less efficient due to frictional losses and incomplete combustion. Eventually you reach the point where it becomes more efficient to add another cylinder than to make the existing ones any larger. It varies from engine to engine, but 500cc per cylinder is usually a good rule of thumb. This is why you don't get many 4-cylinder engines much bigger than 2 litres for example. Larger cylinders need larger, heavier pistons, which are harder to move and therefore slower to rev. Big aircraft engines from the 30s and 40s were 20, 30, even 40 litres, but they had such massive pistons that most couldn't rev over 1800 or 2000 rpm. Obviously the physical size of the engine has to be taken into account as well. The 6 litre you mentioned would probably be better as a V10 or V12, but those kinds of engine are just too large for most applications, so the 500cc guestimate tends to be more relaxed as you get bigger. As to how it behaves, generally the more cylinders the smoother if feels as there's a power stroke more often (twice per revolution for a 4-cylinder, 3 times for a 6-cyl, 4 times for a V8, etc). Sweevo fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 16:48
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Bocklebee posted:If it is a manual you can put it in gear, have a friend hold the brakes and start throwing your weight onto a large johnson bar. I thought of the starter thing, but was worried about breaking other stuff. I'll give it a try with the breaker bar tonight. Thanks!
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Sep 2, 2010 17:28
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I have a Kia Sephia from 1991. When I'm first driving it, everything runs perfectly. After a little while, however, my speedometer begins to not work. At first, it's not bad, it'll just kind of hover around whatever speed I'm going. If I absolutely have to take it on the highway, it ends up stuck around 35-45mph when I'm going 65-75, and then when I get off, it seems to read about half of however speed I'm going. Usually around this time, the little "O/D OFF" light will start flashing, and will stay flashing for the foreseeable future, unless I don't drive for about two days. I'm worried that it is having a not-so-fun impact on my gas mileage. I know that whatever problem is causing the overdrive to crap out is likely beyond my skills to fix, but is it possible that whatever is wrong with my speedometer could be fixed at home?
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Sep 2, 2010 18:50
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OD OFF flashing is probably indicating a transmission issue, possibly the VSS. (Vehicle Speed Sensor) I'd start there.
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Sep 2, 2010 19:44
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Those Isuzu flat-front truck things use a 5.2L 4 banger diesel. Here's the page for it, including a picture and lots of specifications: http://www.isuzucv.com/engines/4h_index.html I've driven one of them before and when you start/stop the engine, the entire truck violently shakes around. I haven't driven many diesels, though, so that may be par for the course. insta posted:Incidentally, I want to hear a 6 liter 4 cylinder. It'd idle like an executioners drum.
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Sep 2, 2010 20:34
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I guess what you all are telling me about # of cylinders kinda goes with what a friend of mine tells me about his buell ulysses. I know nothing of bikes but he says the vtwin buell will majorly out-accelerate a similar-displacement 4 cyl sportbike for the first tiny bit and then after that tiny bit all he sees is the sportbike tailight way off in the distance.
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Sep 2, 2010 21:04
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How does one go about buying Amsoil without dealing with all the sketchy MLM BS? I've tried calling local 'dealers' and all I get are cell phone inboxes, and I can't order off their website because I'm not sponsered by a dealer :I Are there any good websites, or do I have to just keep calling?
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Sep 2, 2010 22:12
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May I ask why you feel that AMSOIL is so important? That is to say, what is it about AMSOIL that would make you want to go to such lengths to get it, as opposed to what you can pick up down at the parts store?
Mr. Wiggles fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 22:13
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Mr. Wiggles posted:May I ask why you feel that AMSOIL is so important? That is to say, what is it about AMSOIL that would make you want to go to such lengths to get it, as opposed to what you can pick up down at the parts store? I'd like their Severe Gear 75W-90 for my RX-7's transmission, as my research seems to indicate it lasts longer, and it's not too much more expensive than the other stuff.
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Sep 2, 2010 22:21
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Piano posted:It's fine to drive, you're just causing If anything, his greenhouse gas output is lower without a cat.
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Sep 2, 2010 22:23
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I picked up leather seats for my car. I want to make them heated. I've seen a few kits online, does anyone have any recommendations? I could rip OEM poo poo out of a junkyard car, but I'd rather just order stuff. This is what I thinking about. Didn't know if it was worth it or cheap junk. http://www.jcwhitney.com/universal-seat-heater/p2024600.jcwx?filterid=c3374o20j1 Any insight would be appreciated.
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Sep 2, 2010 22:43
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My '91 MX5's engine has been making a squeaking sound for a while now. Sounds like tsjika-tsjika-tsjika-tsjika, basically like you'd imagine a squeaky pulley to sound. It's there whenever the engine is running, although it only appears a few seconds after startup (and gets drowned out by the engine noise at higher revs). Listening with a screwdiver, the sound seems to be originating from the power steering pump. The belt looks fine and is properly tensioned, so with the nature of the sound I'm thinking hosed up pulley on the pump? Any other options that I'm overlooking? I hope it's not the crankshaft or something like that  .
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Sep 2, 2010 23:10
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Melicious posted:Except now it clunks loudly when shifting into second, pulses rhythmically when idling, and the steering wheel doesn't return to center after I make a turn. Sounds like a motor mount may not be in correctly or not properly tightened, and that they didn't put the steering back together properly. GRANTED, I once took in a car for bad suspension and that made a cracked motor mount more apparent, so it's POSSIBLE that you had these problems before but other problems masked it, but I doubt it.
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Sep 2, 2010 23:15
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
Is it a reverse thread? lazer_chicken posted:Those Isuzu flat-front truck things use a 5.2L 4 banger diesel. Here's the page for it, including a picture and lots of specifications: http://www.isuzucv.com/engines/4h_index.html Same with the hino diesel that I drive. Mr. Wiggles posted:May I ask why you feel that AMSOIL is so important? That is to say, what is it about AMSOIL that would make you want to go to such lengths to get it, as opposed to what you can pick up down at the parts store? Speed and CLASS
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Sep 3, 2010 00:19
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Melicious posted:Ugh, please help me. I am so loving frustrated. In short: tough titty, nut up. Just because you were the first vehicle in that day doesn't mean they didn't have jobs they were already working on. In fact, it's guaranteed that someone else is in line ahead of you if you don't have an appointment. The only secondary issue that the first shop could have caused was the steering not returning to center. If you do anything to the rack or tie rod ends, you need to align the car. The pulsing and clunking are not the engine mounts, but now that your engine isn't flololloping around, another issue has become evident. This happens constantly. No one hosed up your car, it was already hosed up.
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Sep 3, 2010 01:01
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Wagonburner posted:What does the # of cylinders in an engine do for you? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_balance
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Sep 3, 2010 02:08
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Quick Question: I had wicked bad bearings a week ago, so bad that the car was vibrating like nuts. Got one side replaced it went away but the other side was a tad noisy too. Got that side replaced and it got a little quieter. There is still some noise though. I was curious can a warped rotor (which I definitely have) cause road noise dependent on speed? This is an SUV with some thick tread tires and I've never owned one before, is it common for there to be just a whirring noise that's low with some of these thick tread tires?
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Sep 3, 2010 04:31
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Okay, this isn't extremely car suited, but I know the finance nuts of AI will have an answer. I am 24 months in on a 60 month loan, I was 19 when I financed this car and didn't know anything about loans or getting screwed by them. Is there a way I can tell if I have a precomputed loan? On my statement each month it doesn't say anything about the amount applied to interest, so I'm almost positive it is one. If so can anyone help me calculate the interest I'd receive back if I paid off my loan 2 years early. The nitty gritty goes like this 10500 financed over 60 months, with an APR of 13.9 percent, amount owed is 5000 and I'm looking to have it all paid down by next year.
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Sep 3, 2010 05:09
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scapulataf posted:Is it a reverse thread? Nope. The kid had soccer practice tonight, so no wrenching. But tomorrow I'm going to put a great big breaker bar on it and see what I can do.
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Sep 3, 2010 05:20
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Ethox posted:Okay, this isn't extremely car suited, but I know the finance nuts of AI will have an answer. Disclaimer: I'm probably 100% wrong. I'm no expert on this stuff.
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Sep 3, 2010 05:46
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Piano posted:This is difficult to calculate because you've made more than your minimum payments on occasion (apparently?) and you plan to make more of those. My napkin math tells me you'd save about $1150 paying it off today (24 months) and about $750 paying it off at 36 months. But this all gets jumbled depending on just how much you're actually paying per month. Thanks for crunching the numbers for me! I didn't expect it to be a whole lot, but anything will get this p.o.s. paid off quicker.
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Sep 3, 2010 05:53
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I'm not a car guy at all, I'm just trying to keep my crappy 99 Escort zx2 on the road and you guys in AI have been awesome in the past so I thought I'd get some advice here. I had a headlight go on me, so I came in here to figure out where to buy a replacement rather than go to the garage like I normally would. I figure replacing a headlight can't be to bad. I looked through the threads and found Rock Auto Parts for inexpensive parts. When I looked up the light I found some stuff that brought up questions. It looks like I can buy a bunch of types of bulbs: Standard Replacement Halogen Capsules Blue Halogen Nighthawk BriteLite High Output TruView Capsules (another) TruView Capsules Are these all compatible with my car? Is there somewhere I can go to learn the differences between all of these? Is there one that's just the best for some reason? If I buy one non-standard replacement, should I just buy 2 and replace them both so my headlights aren't different brightness? Also, is there anything I need to be paying attention to when replacing this light bulb or is it pretty straightforward?
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Sep 3, 2010 06:53
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Go to Walmart or the local parts store of your choosing. Find a 9007 bulb, they'll be with the rest of the headlamp bulbs. You might save a little bit by going through Rockauto, but add in shipping and the potential cost of multiple tickets for a headlight being out and you'll see where it makes sense to get one locally. They're all halogen. It's pretty straight forward - find the back of the bulb, twist the connector, remove. Try not to bump the glass on anything, it's pressurized. Old bulb should have a press-in clip on the connector, press it in, remove connector, discard bulb in garbage. Installation is the reverse - however, do NOT touch the glass with your skin. Doing so without cleaning it properly may cause the bulb to explode the first time you turn it on. If you do touch it, find a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol and rub the glass to clean it. Looks like a single bulb at Autozone is 10.99, two will run 19.99. I'd personally get the twin pack and keep the spare for future use (keep it in the package). They're all Halogen - there's really not much reason to go with the more expensive "xtravision" unless you really do want a little more light (and if you do, replace both of them instead of just one), and beware that they'll run a bit hotter. As long as they didn't put the battery or air filter or some poo poo behind the headlamp housing it should take you under 5 minutes. Even if they did, in general most companies make poo poo behind the headlights relatively easy to move out of the way so you can do the bulbs (VW excluded). On my Accord, I had to move the power steering tank to do the drivers side, but it literally pulled right out of its mount. edit: some google work turns up that there's probably some plastic covering the headlamp assembly that you'll have to remove. Once it's out of the way it's dead simple. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 06:59
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some texas redneck posted:Installation is the reverse - however, do NOT touch the glass with your skin. Doing so without cleaning it properly may cause the bulb to explode the first time you turn it on. If you do touch it, find a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol and rub the glass to clean it. OK, you're right about not touching the glass, but if you do, the bulb is not going to loving explode when you turn it on. The oils from your skin will over time break down the bulb and it will just burn out prematurely. It's not going to loving explode.
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Sep 3, 2010 13:20
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SynMoo posted:OK, you're right about not touching the glass, but if you do, the bulb is not going to loving explode when you turn it on. The oils from your skin will over time break down the bulb and it will just burn out prematurely. It's not going to loving explode. Some Lightbulb company (can't remember which one though right now) tested this and they said neither did the bulbs explode nor did they burn out any faster. Of course that could just be a ploy to make you touch the bulbs so they burn out faster and they can sell more bulbs! 
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Sep 3, 2010 14:13
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Shai-Hulud posted:Some Lightbulb company (can't remember which one though right now) tested this and they said neither did the bulbs explode nor did they burn out any faster. Even if the oil doesn't cause premature failure, it will darken the surface of the bulb in that area as it burns over time, reducing the effectiveness of the bulb. Either way, it's not going to loving explode.
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Sep 3, 2010 14:20
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