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I just wanted to hear about thoughts on nitrogen being put in your tires instead of regular air? Also is it normal for my Civic to sound very loud and whiny in first gear at very high rpms? I typically upshift between 2-2,500rpm but for whatever reason something felt odd with first gear so I accelerated and let the RPMs hit about 5k and it was very loud and whiny. The car is less than a month old and is past the break-in period.
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Sep 3, 2010 14:35
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The exploding light bulb thing is more to do with theatre lighting with great big parabolic lenses and huge amounts of heat being produced.
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Sep 3, 2010 16:57
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whatupdet posted:I just wanted to hear about thoughts on nitrogen being put in your tires instead of regular air? If you have a high performance car where minute changes in tire behavior can have a real effect on your race time, nitrogen is a perfectly valid product. For average street cars it's useless. Edit: If your car has VTEC, the change in sound is probably it kicking in (yo). Nothus fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 17:00
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The muffler on my 2007 Sentra is busted, and only the dealers nearby can get a replacement (and they want $400). Should I order a muffler off of this page? Link And if so, which one looks the best deal for replacing a stock muffler? The site says they all fit, though I am a little skeptic about that, is there an easy way to confirm it will fit before I buy it? Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 17:00
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Nothus posted:If you have a high performance car where minute changes in tire behavior can have a real effect on your race time, nitrogen is a perfectly valid product. For average street cars it's useless. About the only benefits of having nitrogen in a street-driven car is that it usually comes with free tire pressure checks from the shop that filled the tires and some places include a limited tire repair warranty as well.
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Sep 3, 2010 18:15
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my1999gsr posted:About the only benefits of having nitrogen in a street-driven car is that it usually comes with free tire pressure checks from the shop that filled the tires and some places include a limited tire repair warranty as well. You can save the cost of filling the tires and spend it on a tire pressure gauge. Then, you can get free tire pressure checks at home (when the tires are cold and the measurements are most accurate) without having to spend the time driving across town.
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Sep 3, 2010 18:41
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Nothus posted:If you have a high performance car where minute changes in tire behavior can have a real effect on your race time, nitrogen is a perfectly valid product. For average street cars it's useless. It seemed most places I read about nitrogen said it had slight benefits but was not worth the price which is $6/tire here. I had it recommended by dad who told me to wait until next summer as it would be a waste now with winter approaching so I'll stick with regular air if that's the case. quote:Edit: If your car has VTEC, the change in sound is probably it kicking in (yo). I just checked the Honda website which lists i-VTEC for my Civic so thanks because I was a little worried something was wrong with my new car but now I can rest easy.
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Sep 3, 2010 19:02
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whatupdet posted:I just checked the Honda website which lists i-VTEC for my Civic so thanks because I was a little worried something was wrong with my new car but now I can rest easy. Consider winding it out to near redline (once warmed up!) one a week or so at least. It won't do any harm, might do some good and is fun.
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Sep 3, 2010 19:11
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This is my first time ever posting in this forum, but I read the rules. I have to say up front that I don't know poo poo about cars, nor do I car to. I just want to get from point A to point B contently. Please advise me on my situation. My 2000 Impala has 190,000 miles on it. It has been a fantastic car, but is suffering from many problems. 1) I am having to put water in the car about once every two weeks or it will start running hot. This is a small hassle, and I don't mind putting water in it ever so often, but it alarms me that I could be stranded somewhere when it goes from a slow leak to a not so slow leak. How expensive is it to have this issue checked out? Is there a leak filler stuff I can put in the car to plug the leak? 2) My battery will go dead randomly if I don;t drive the car for a few days. Autozone says the battery is good, and that I have something leeching power even with it turned off. I was thinking about just hooking a toggle switch to a power wire, and running it to the inside of the car. Is that a bad idea? I don't want to invest any more money into this car. I just want to keep it on the road a little longer until I have a nice down payment on a used Honda or some poo poo. 3) My check engine light came on when the car ran hot a few months ago, and hasn't gone off. The light had never came on until it ran hot that first time. I read in my manual that to reset the dashboard notification lights requires holding down a button on my radio while pumping the breaks. The problem is I have an after market radio, so what the gently caress do I do to find out if the light is bogus? Anybody know another way to reset the light?
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Sep 3, 2010 19:19
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I'm getting a "wubwubwubwub" sound from my wheels when I'm moving that gets faster as I speed up. It seems to be more prominent on black pavement than concrete. I have Kumho Escta ASX tires that were rotated a few weeks ago and the sound started to occur after they were rotated. I inspected my tires and didn't find any missing tread or bulges. Is this just the tires getting worn on differently since they got rotated?
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Sep 3, 2010 19:20
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KelJu posted:1) I am having to put water in the car about once every two weeks or it will start running hot. This is a small hassle, and I don't mind putting water in it ever so often, but it alarms me that I could be stranded somewhere when it goes from a slow leak to a not so slow leak. How expensive is it to have this issue checked out? Is there a leak filler stuff I can put in the car to plug the leak? You're either leaking water somewhere externally, or you have a failed headgasket and your engine is burning some of its coolant internally. External leaks are usually easy enough to trace, though sometimes they don't show up until the car is hot. Leak-fixing compounds are generally frowned upon as they can sometimes cause as many problems as they fix, but it is a 190k mile Impala. If it's your headgasket, it's a cheap part but a very labor-intensive repair. I also just remembered that, depending on what engine you have, it likely as not is the intake manifold gasket - GM V6s have had issues with those for a long goddamn time. Another relatively cheap part but very labor-intensive to replace. quote:2) My battery will go dead randomly if I don;t drive the car for a few days. Autozone says the battery is good, and that I have something leeching power even with it turned off. I was thinking about just hooking a toggle switch to a power wire, and running it to the inside of the car. Is that a bad idea? I don't want to invest any more money into this car. I just want to keep it on the road a little longer until I have a nice down payment on a used Honda or some poo poo. You want a quick disconnect terminal. Griot's has them for $12 and Griot's is usually expensive as gently caress. Get something similar at a local autoparts store. Only issue I can see is that being a GM vehicle you probably have those poo poo-rear end side terminal mounts, and I have no idea if this exists for them.  edit: Yes they exist and/or can be "made" by using a side-terminal adapter and a disconnect switch for a top terminal.quote:3) My check engine light came on when the car ran hot a few months ago, and hasn't gone off. The light had never came on until it ran hot that first time. I read in my manual that to reset the dashboard notification lights requires holding down a button on my radio while pumping the breaks. The problem is I have an after market radio, so what the gently caress do I do to find out if the light is bogus? Anybody know another way to reset the light? It may be completely unrelated to your engine temperature. The only way to reset it is to clear the stored code, but if whatever caused it to trigger hasn't been fixed, it'll come on again. Go to Autozone and have them pull the stored codes from the computer, it'll give you an idea of what's wrong. It could range from a problem that will only actually be an issue if you have to go through an emissions test (CELs are instant fails) to something that might actually affect the car.
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Sep 3, 2010 19:38
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sanchez posted:Consider winding it out to near redline (once warmed up!) one a week or so at least. It won't do any harm, might do some good and is fun. Any reason why or just because it's fun? I'll admit every so often when I'm out driving and get to a stop light; once green I might bring it to about 4,500-5,000rpm before I change into second but it's done very seldom and is just for fun, nothing else. I have yet to bring it close to redline which I read is 6,800rpm but I think that's only because I'm afraid I will break something.
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Sep 3, 2010 19:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're either leaking water somewhere externally, or you have a failed headgasket and your engine is burning some of its coolant internally. External leaks are usually easy enough to trace, though sometimes they don't show up until the car is hot. Leak-fixing compounds are generally frowned upon as they can sometimes cause as many problems as they fix, but it is a 190k mile Impala. If it's your headgasket, it's a cheap part but a very labor-intensive repair. Awesome answers! Thank you very much. I'll go back to Autozone this weekend, and see if they can tell me what the code for what is causing my engine light to stay on. Also, I do have the type of battery with the sideways screw in bolts. The cable terminals are round and the bolt screws through them and then into the battery.
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Sep 3, 2010 19:47
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whatupdet posted:Any reason why or just because it's fun? It's a good idea to rev up the engine every now and then for a number of reasons, but the easiest to think of off hand is that if you never switch to the second cam profile by revving past a certain RPM, the actuator could stiffen up over time. Probably not, but it doesn't hurt. And don't worry, full throttle runs to near the red line aren't going to hurt the car. Hell, that's where yor car makes most of it's power. Wind it up every once in awhile, it's made for it.
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Sep 3, 2010 21:25
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some texas redneck posted:They're all halogen. It's pretty straight forward - find the back of the bulb, twist the connector, remove. Try not to bump the glass on anything, it's pressurized. Old bulb should have a press-in clip on the connector, press it in, remove connector, discard bulb in garbage. There's a screw on collar on the back of escort headlights, it's not immediately obvious but you have to unscrew that before you can actually remove the bulb.
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Sep 3, 2010 22:13
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whatupdet posted:Any reason why or just because it's fun? The Honda B-series and K-series engines (your's is a K-series) were built to rev and shifting at low RPMs/lugging the engine aren't helping it. Check your owner's manual for driving tips - it should give you optimal shift points for each gear. It took me a while to get used to my Honda's engine too - I mostly drove a diesel before and their power delivery is very different - basically opposite.
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Sep 4, 2010 00:10
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So I just bought my first car. I purchased it from a private seller in the state of NY. I have to send the title to my bank ASAP for a lien. I am moving to Connecticut on Monday to start my new job. Should I register the car in NY or CT? I know I have to get a CT license within 30 days. Do I have to register the car, get plates mailed to me, put the plates on in NY and drive to CT, or can I drive to CT with no plates and park it until I get plates? It's about a hundred miles each way, almost all on I-84. edit: temporary NY plates maybe? would I have to pay the full fee for a NYS registration? andy17null fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Sep 4, 2010 03:44
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 CRANK PULLEY UPDATEWell, there's no flywheel inspection hole on the car that I can find, so I wasn't able to brace against the starter teeth or anything. Had my wife stand on the brake with the car in 1st, but I only rotated the engine anyway. I braced a socket/ratchet in a long bar against the garage floor and tried to blip the starter, but all this did was break the ratchet (I don't have a breaker bar in that drive). So I guess tomorrow I'll try heating up the nut with a torch and trying? Maybe get a strap wrench on the pully to go one way while a wrench goes the other?
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Sep 4, 2010 03:51
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You want fifth (or sixth or whatever your tallest gear is) gear, not first. First is going to give you the most leverage to move the car forward, fifth/sixth will maximize the use of the car's mass and brakes to keep the crank from turning.
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Sep 4, 2010 04:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:You want fifth (or sixth or whatever your tallest gear is) gear, not first. First is going to give you the most leverage to move the car forward, fifth/sixth will maximize the use of the car's mass and brakes to keep the crank from turning.  Okay will try that tomorrow.
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Sep 4, 2010 04:41
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Uthor posted:You can save the cost of filling the tires and spend it on a tire pressure gauge. Then, you can get free tire pressure checks at home (when the tires are cold and the measurements are most accurate) without having to spend the time driving across town. You wouldn't believe how many people are too lazy or afraid to check their own tire pressure. I actually had a customer tell me that that was why she got the nitrogen fill service. I offered to show her how her tire pressure gauge works but she wasn't interested.
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Sep 4, 2010 05:48
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my1999gsr posted:You wouldn't believe how many people are too lazy or afraid to check their own tire pressure. I actually had a customer tell me that that was why she got the nitrogen fill service. I offered to show her how her tire pressure gauge works but she wasn't interested. I admit I haven't checked mine since I've put my tires on in the spring. Last year the pressure didn't drop at all all year, so this year I stooped caring. Plus, I've got a tire pressure light if they get too low.
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Sep 4, 2010 06:48
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^^ I hate when you're my customer. Adding a tire pressure light instantly made tire pressure the shop's problem, and not the driver's. gently caress those sensors, and gently caress nitrogen.  ChairmanMeow posted:P0138-o2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Late on this, but good to know, I think. P600 codes are pretty much a guaranteed ECM replacement with the 03-08 Corollas and Matrixes. Call your dealer. I'm more familiar with P607, but I think P606 was the same. Not sure about the P0138, but I'd do the ECM under warranty first, and see if it is causing that issue before I bought a new sensor. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Sep 4, 2010 |
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Sep 4, 2010 15:14
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mr.belowaverage posted:^^ I hate when you're my customer. Adding a tire pressure light instantly made tire pressure the shop's problem, and not the driver's. gently caress those sensors, and gently caress nitrogen. I at least know how to put my own air in. And I didn't stop checking because of the light but because of past experience telling me that the tires don't lose air. The light's just a backup.
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Sep 4, 2010 18:21
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Uthor posted:I at least know how to put my own air in. It's a good idea to at least check when the seasons change, expansion and contraction with temperature and all.
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Sep 4, 2010 18:39
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eddiewalker posted:It's a good idea to at least check when the seasons change, expansion and contraction with temperature and all. I know. I switch them out for winter tires in the fall and double check, plus I usually rotate and check once during the summer. They haven't been out of spec +/- 1 psi, even sitting all winter.
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Sep 4, 2010 19:01
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Uthor posted:I at least know how to put my own air in. The lights can get flaky too. Dad had a 2008 Lexus something or other for awhile, and the day after he bought it (new) the TPMS light came on. Checked all 5 tires including the spare, by the dealer.. they replaced all the TPMS sensors. Few days later, same thing. Popped on when I was visiting and driving it. I personally bought a decent gauge, checked the pressures on the door jamb, and every single loving tire was inflated properly, including the spare. It wouldn't tell you which tire it was either. The dealer kept ordering parts, he got sick of it and just ignored it until he traded it in on a .... Prius.  Going from a 300+ hp direct injection V6 to a hybrid.... when he's always had semi sporty luxury barges (and had not one, but TWO turbo Chrysler Conquests/Starions at one point!).At least the lovely 2010 Cobalt I had for a rental would tell you which tire was low - actually you could get it to tell you the exact pressure of every tire except the spare. It was interesting to see the variations in pressure while driving.
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Sep 4, 2010 19:01
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some texas redneck posted:At least the lovely 2010 Cobalt I had for a rental would tell you which tire was low - actually you could get it to tell you the exact pressure of every tire except the spare. It was interesting to see the variations in pressure while driving. I rented a Chevy minivan once and that was the nicest (only nice?) thing on it. I wish I had it on my GTI.
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Sep 4, 2010 19:02
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Any RX-8 owners tell me what the costs of maintaining the car as opposed to something like a Mazdaspeed 3? I know I'll spend more on fuel, but if something breaks and I need to take it to a shop, will there be a big difference in what I'll pay?
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Sep 4, 2010 20:07
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is there a relatively simple way to flush the coolant out of your system that doesn't cost a bundle of money? Mechanics around here charge $70+ and I feel like that's a little ridiculous for what basically amounts to letting the coolant out and then putting some cleaner in--but I don't want to mess anything up.
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Sep 5, 2010 06:54
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Since this thread is 306 pages long, I hesitate to ask this-I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but 306 pages would take me over a month to wade through.  Where did you guys all start learning this stuff? Are there reputable beginner websites that put it in downright baby terms? My problem is I know some things, but I don't really have a solid ground to build any knowledge on. I'd rather start over with the basics and build on something more stable. E: Additional question: Opinions on Non-mivec V6 mitsubishi fto are appreciated. Fluffy Bunnies fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 07:09
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Where did you guys all start learning this stuff? Are there reputable beginner websites that put it in downright baby terms?
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Sep 5, 2010 08:43
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Fatty Patty posted:is there a relatively simple way to flush the coolant out of your system that doesn't cost a bundle of money? Mechanics around here charge $70+ and I feel like that's a little ridiculous for what basically amounts to letting the coolant out and then putting some cleaner in--but I don't want to mess anything up. That is basically what flushing the radiator is. Drain the coolant, stick a garden hose in your radiator and run the water until the stuff coming out is clear. If your coolant looks particularly gross and rusty you can use a cleaner. If you are concerned about your heater core you can pop off the inlet hose and blast crud out of that too. Then add your favorite brand coolant and distilled water and call it a day.
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Sep 5, 2010 13:35
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Fatty Patty posted:is there a relatively simple way to flush the coolant out of your system that doesn't cost a bundle of money? Mechanics around here charge $70+ and I feel like that's a little ridiculous for what basically amounts to letting the coolant out and then putting some cleaner in--but I don't want to mess anything up. You'll need to know the volume of your cooling system, and the concentration for your area(50/50 in warm-temperate and up to 70/30 in cold rear end places like PA.) Get enough straight coolant, and bottles of distilled water (from your grocer) to hit this volume, plus say 10% extra. Drain old coolant, fill with hose water, run engine for 3 or 4 minutes, making sure it stays full, drain, repeat, dump in the required coolant, and then fill to full with the distilled water. Run engine and keep topping up as the air pockets find their way to the filler neck. If your car is equipped with bleeder screws these should be opened while filling to get the harder air bubbles out. Don't forget to remove and dump your overflow tank out, and fill it to just below the max line with 100% coolant from the bottle. Keep your dog/cat/brother away from the drained hose water, as it contains some coolant but not enough to freak out about. Edit: Squeeze all your hoses while you're in/under there, they should be firm. If they're squishy like a boob consider replacing them.
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Sep 5, 2010 14:43
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:Where did you guys all start learning this stuff? Are there reputable beginner websites that put it in downright baby terms? My problem is I know some things, but I don't really have a solid ground to build any knowledge on. I'd rather start over with the basics and build on something more stable. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562 I was in the same place as you about a year ago. Know I know a tiny bit more, but I act all smart because it's teh intarwub. But seriously, this very thread is greatness in electronic form.
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Sep 5, 2010 17:01
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What does Nissan do with the exhaust systems in the Z and Infiniti to make them sound so unique?
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Sep 5, 2010 20:30
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Stupid wheel question! I got a set of 18" aftermarket wheels and tires mounted and balanced yesterday and I put them on my car with correct size centering rings. However, at about 90-100km/h and I get strange vibration on the back wheels, kind of like they're bouncing up and down. Should I get the wheels re-balanced? Or did I just put them on wrong? I put the centering rings on the hubs, and then placed the wheel on that and bolted them all down. Did I miss something somewhere? Should I do it the other way around?
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Sep 5, 2010 20:56
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Q: I've got a horribly bad tie rod that needs to get replaced ASAP. A few months ago a shop told me I needed a new Left Outer tie rod... did they mean the passenger side or driver side? (Is left and right decided from inside the car facing forward, or by standing in front of the car????) When I'm driving and hit my brakes, I swear I feel the wobbling on my passenger side... but I would assume "left" tie rod would mean driver side (I'm in America... when I'm inside the car, I'm on the left.. unless your standing in front of my car, then I'm on the right :P ) I'm not taking this car to that shop, I'm having a friend do it, but he needs to know which side tie rod to buy...
Influence100 fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 21:09
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Baram posted:What does Nissan do with the exhaust systems in the Z and Infiniti to make them sound so unique? There's not really a simple answer to that. Some engine and exhaust combinations are just distinctive and some auto manufacturers have an entire division of people dedicated to tweaking how the car sounds. It's one of the major selling points when I was getting my Neon SRT-4. The second they fired it up I fell in love. I'll admit that the Z/G cars sound brutish in a European way. Very exotic.
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Sep 5, 2010 21:24
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The tire hook is hanging down on my back tire. How much would it cost to get that fixed? Edit: This is on a 2002 Chevy Malibu, if that matters.
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Sep 5, 2010 23:07
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